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Donnie strickland
Samba Member
Joined: December 21, 2009
Posts: 2403
Location: Moody, AL
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 Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2016 8:22 am Post subject: Re: How to check fuel pump? |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
| This means you don't have to spend 50 bucks (just for the gauge) |
$30.54 plus shipping. I don't mind, since I know it'll be right. 
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71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback |
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potterjon
Samba Member
Joined: January 31, 2016
Posts: 74
Location: North Carolina
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| Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2016 8:59 am Post subject: Re: How to check fuel pump? |
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| Yes, I don't mind spending the extra $20 either, but I have to hand it to bobnotch for improvising. |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22425
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2016 10:30 pm Post subject: Re: How to check fuel pump? |
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| raygreenwood wrote: |
Bear in mind.....if am running a bone stock D-jet system.....and all it has to do is run.....smooth.....I dont need a $50 gauge either.
But guess what....it doesn't HURT on a bone stock system. ....and can actuallly pinpoint issues.....and without one......an accurate gauge.....there is a lot of potential power, smoothness throttle response....and longevity. ....that you will never unlock with a $10 gauge. Its especially good for diagnosing wear issues in regulators and pumps.
But hey.....if you want to stay with only the bare absolute minimum necessary to keep the car running.....go for it. Harbor freight is open late. Knock yourself out!
The bare minimum mentality is one of the reasons I'm not that interested in helping most people with D-jet these days. Ray |
Oh, I'm sure having an accurate guage would help a lot. In my case I was using it for diagnosing the system. It was actually tight in that it held over 20 psi after 24 hours. I spent 3 months trying to find an FI problem, and already had a new FI harness from Jeff Bowlsby, new (rebuilt) injectors, 2 "C" MPS's, 3 different "C/D" brains, 2 CHT's (and some balast resistors), 2 different IAD temp sensors, replaced the fuel pump, had all new fuel lines and hoses, and 2 different TVS units, 3 sets of trigger points and still had a problem that couldn't be figured out. The ignition timing was dead on, and it NGK plugs, with solid copper wires and the correct angled ends at the distributor. Needless to say, I was starting to get a little bummed out that it was running like crap with all those new/very good used parts. Everything checked out, and yet I still had a problem.
After talking with Jim, I finally ended up setting up a 10 mile test loop (my farthest point from the house was 2.5 miles away in case I had to walk back home). I ran a long fuel hose off the fuel test tap into the car, and hung the gauge off the ashtray, so I could see it. I also ran a set of leads off the battery for my VOM, and placed it on the dash. I took readings of both the battery and fuel pressure before I left the house, during different points on my loop, and finally back in the driveway. The fuel pressure never changed. Voltage however fell by the mile. Eventually dropping a solid 2 volts in those 10 miles. I'm sure if I had kept driving, it would have gotten worse. But with the generator system, that 2 full volt drop was enough to cause a very rich running condition (something that you don't think about on the 411/412 with it's alternator). After installing a new "old style" Voltage Regulator from Jim, the problem disappeared, because I was getting the full 14.5 volts that's needed for the FI system to operate correctly. Basically my fuel pressure wasn't a problem on the FI, but rather it was a voltage problem directly affecting the FI system.
I should also note here, that the entire engine had just been completely rebuit with a Counter weighted crank, new bearings, new stock cam, new Mahle pistons and cylinders, rebuilt by Russ Wolfe heads, and it had been very closely balanced. All of that went into a freshly machined by RIMCO case.I had a lot of time and money tossed at it, as I didn't want to get into it again for a long time. I also knew that the FI system "prefered" a fresh engine to operate correctly (your state of tune).
And I'll also mention here that all that stuff was done after I had spent 6 months of cutting out rust, welding in new patches, reworking older parts, sandblasting the entire thing (pan got the same kind of work too along with a frame head replacement). Both body and pan got sealed sealed in epoxy primer, body worked, then sealed again, and then painted and clear coated using PPG products thru out. All of that along with completely rebuilding the entire brake system, and steering components. The only thing that didn't get rebuilt was the trans, and it got a fluid change, as it didn't howl or grind in any gear. I wanted to drive it!!
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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potterjon
Samba Member
Joined: January 31, 2016
Posts: 74
Location: North Carolina
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| Posted: Tue May 24, 2016 10:08 am Post subject: Re: How to check fuel pump? |
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Well, I thought I should update this thread as I am still having problems with this car. After checking the voltage at the pump I assumed the pump was dead and we sent it off to Jim Adney to have it rebuilt. In the process he also sent us the overflow repair kit and the vent repair kit. He also said that there was nothing wrong with the pump, but he rebuilt it for us anyway.
I am very glad we got in touch with him because I had no idea the overflow hose was even there as you can't really see it because it is behind the fill tube at the gas cap. It was completely disconnected and rotted off.
I replaced all three of those things and we still cannot get the car to start. Jim had me check the voltage at the injectors and they seemed to be working fine. He also had me check the FI plug that goes into the distributor cap and make sure that the injectors were clicking, which they are. I replaced the plug with one that was sent to me by my father in law a few weeks ago. As stated in another thread, that plug was missing and those wires were just sort of taped off in place.
Everything seems to check out so far but there isn't any fuel getting back to the injectors. I am still waiting to hear back from Jim via our last email to know what on earth to check next. I have checked for kinks in the line and checked to make sure the pump was hooked up correctly and it is. Out of frustration yesterday I pulled the injectors on the left side of the engine and had my wife try and crank the car and I don't see any spray of fuel at all. The only thing I can think of that is left is the hard line may need to be replaced. I don't know if it has ever been replaced before but that is the last thing that I can think of. Any ideas what to do next would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
And I have not gotten around to getting a fuel pressure gauge yet but that is next on my list.
I also had him rebuild the fuel sending unit at the same time. |
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Donnie strickland
Samba Member
Joined: December 21, 2009
Posts: 2403
Location: Moody, AL
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| Posted: Tue May 24, 2016 10:21 am Post subject: Re: How to check fuel pump? |
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It sounds like you're not getting any fuel from the tank outlet. When you had the sender out, did you look in the tank with a flashlight? It might be plugged up with rust or dirt. Or, the fuel filter under the tank could be clogged. Take the fuel lines loose under the car and see if your hard line is clear -- you could blow some air through it.
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71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback |
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potterjon
Samba Member
Joined: January 31, 2016
Posts: 74
Location: North Carolina
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| Posted: Tue May 24, 2016 11:27 am Post subject: Re: How to check fuel pump? |
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Thanks Donnie,
I went underneath and started pulling the lines to the fuel pump and found that I had put one on maybe a little aggressively or something because I somehow managed to make this happen. I removed the piece of rubber and put it back on. I am waiting for the battery to charge again before I try and start it to see if that was the culprit.
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21519
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Tue May 24, 2016 12:30 pm Post subject: Re: How to check fuel pump? |
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| potterjon wrote: |
Thanks Donnie,
I went underneath and started pulling the lines to the fuel pump and found that I had put one on maybe a little aggressively or something because I somehow managed to make this happen. I removed the piece of rubber and put it back on. I am waiting for the battery to charge again before I try and start it to see if that was the culprit.
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Uh.....where is this picture taken? See that yellow thing on the left of the picture?...that looks like a VW beetle carburetor fuel filter. If it is...It should be NOWHERE on your vehicles.
That alone can keep your pump from feeding. It has nowhere near the flow capability required to keep the pump from starving an cavitating.
Also....did you check to make sure the wires to the fuel pump are the proper polarity? There is a + and a - molded into the plug housing on the pump. This is important as the pump can run backward...no pressure.
Also....did you get a gauge yet? First things first. Quit trying to start and drive teh car. Plug the pump in...proper polarity....straight to 12V battery or jumper the relay...your choice....and let the pump run by itself without the engine running. Check pressure now and adjust at the FPR.
And...do a volume test...now....by removing the return line and putting it into a graduated jar. It should put out about 1 liter per minute or slightly less...not less than .75 liters per minute...WHILE delivering correct pressure at the fuel ring and read by the gauge.
Once you know that the pump is delivering both pressure AND volume...move on to injector continuity.
You can turn the key on and connect a voltmeter to each individual injector plug and turn the engine around by hand. If memory serves (which it may not today)...the pair should be 1 and 3 and 2 and 4.
As you turn the engine around by hand and the volt meter shows current to that injector plug...stop....and connect the voltmeter to the other injector in that pair. Repeat this for the other pair.
What this test is doing is checking the trigger points for basic operation, plug continuity at the trigger plate and ....the wires between trigger points and ECU on the input side.....and the + wires between the ECU and the injectors on the output side.
If a single injector from a pair...does not show triggering in this test....it is either the + wire between that injector and the ECU......or that injectors ground wire or the ground connector at the case centerline.
If one complete injector pair does not fire...but the other pair does....it will NOT be the center ground wire at the three point plug at the trigger point set...because that would make all four injectors not fire.
It is either the trigger point itself, the wire from that trigger point to the ECU or the output + wire(s) to the injector pair from the ECU.
My suggestion....is to quit fielding suggestions...of what individual PART....IT...meaning the problem....could be next.
Start at a system segment and work it all the way through. Ray |
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potterjon
Samba Member
Joined: January 31, 2016
Posts: 74
Location: North Carolina
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| Posted: Tue May 24, 2016 1:31 pm Post subject: Re: How to check fuel pump? |
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| Actually that yellow filter is on the return line for some odd reason. The one that is on the supply line was replaced about a month or so ago. I have considered taking it off but just haven't gotten that far yet. Removing those lines is a complete PIA. I also know that the wires on the plug are correct as it only goes on one way if I remember correctly. I am not trying to drive the car at this point, I am just trying to get it running again. I do not have a gauge yet as stated earlier but will do soon. Funds haven't supported that quite yet. The hose you are looking at in the photo is the supply line coming from the pump. Thanks for the advice Ray Greenwood, I will try those things as soon the battery charges again. |
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potterjon
Samba Member
Joined: January 31, 2016
Posts: 74
Location: North Carolina
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| Posted: Wed May 25, 2016 8:11 am Post subject: Re: How to check fuel pump? |
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Alright,
This morning I hooked up some test leads to the pump and then to my multimeter to check the voltage. It read 11.7 volts and 11.45 volts on two separate tries. So I know I have power going to the pump.
I also pulled the supply line to make sure fuel was getting to pump and it is. I had hemostats placed on the line before the fuel filter and took off the line going into the pump and the leftover fuel that was in the filter came pouring out, so I know that the pump is getting fuel.
I also unhooked the line going from the pump to the hard line going through the body of the car to the injectors. I turned the key to the "on" position and nothing came out so I tried to crank it and nothing came out.
Just for clarification purposes to make sure I have all the lines hooked up correctly.
The fuel line CLOSEST to the plug goes back to overflow or vent system or whatever you call it. It has a clear plastic filter on it that I will be removing today. That line comes from the nipple for the hard line located closer to the passenger side of the vehicle.
The line in the center is the supply line going to the hard line through the body of the car that supplies fuel to the engine. That line goes to the hard line that is located closer to the drivers side of the car
The fuel line that is the FARTHEST away from the plug is the line coming from the gas tank itself and this is the line that supplies the pump with fuel and it has the metal filter on it.
Am I losing my mind or does it seem like this pump is broken? I am off now to get some fuel line and see if I need to prime the pump. I guess what I am going to do is just run long lines from the pump to some fuel in some mason jars and see if the pump will run the fuel from one jar to the other. From what I understand I can just hook the pump up directly to battery. Can I just remove the battery from the car and and perform this test with the battery on the ground and just hook it straight up to the fuel pump with test leads?
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21519
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Wed May 25, 2016 9:09 am Post subject: Re: How to check fuel pump? |
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| potterjon wrote: |
Alright,
This morning I hooked up some test leads to the pump and then to my multimeter to check the voltage. It read 11.7 volts and 11.45 volts on two separate tries. So I know I have power going to the pump.
I also pulled the supply line to make sure fuel was getting to pump and it is. I had hemostats placed on the line before the fuel filter and took off the line going into the pump and the leftover fuel that was in the filter came pouring out, so I know that the pump is getting fuel.
I also unhooked the line going from the pump to the hard line going through the body of the car to the injectors. I turned the key to the "on" position and nothing came out so I tried to crank it and nothing came out.
Just for clarification purposes to make sure I have all the lines hooked up correctly.
The fuel line CLOSEST to the plug goes back to overflow or vent system or whatever you call it. It has a clear plastic filter on it that I will be removing today. That line comes from the nipple for the hard line located closer to the passenger side of the vehicle.
The line in the center is the supply line going to the hard line through the body of the car that supplies fuel to the engine. That line goes to the hard line that is located closer to the drivers side of the car
The fuel line that is the FARTHEST away from the plug is the line coming from the gas tank itself and this is the line that supplies the pump with fuel and it has the metal filter on it.
Am I losing my mind or does it seem like this pump is broken? I am off now to get some fuel line and see if I need to prime the pump. I guess what I am going to do is just run long lines from the pump to some fuel in some mason jars and see if the pump will run the fuel from one jar to the other. From what I understand I can just hook the pump up directly to battery. Can I just remove the battery from the car and and perform this test with the battery on the ground and just hook it straight up to the fuel pump with test leads?
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Yours looks right:
But...check for the directional arrow on the fuel filter. If its flowing the wrong direction it will starve the pump.
Also.....and someone please correct me if I am wrong because I can't remember and have no time to look up the pictures....I get mixed up sometimes because I work on more type 4's with D-jet these days.
BUT......if memory serves...on the type 3....the supply line to the engine runs up the drivers side....a you note....and the return runs down the passenger side....as you note.....but make sure the hoses are not switched at the engine end of the tunnel. If they are....you may get a dribble through to the engine ring main ...but no pressure.
So...the easiest way to check all of this...if you are getting flow through the ring main....is to pull the return line right up near the pump. Hook power to it...and not just by bumping the key...because that only causes the pump to run for 2 seconds....either hot wire the relay to constantly run...or hook wires directly to the pump plug and to a battery.
Put the return hose from the engine compartment in a graduated jar and put power to it. If the pump runs and fuel fills the jar....0.75 liters per minute or better...then all is well.
And....at this same time....have at least a cheap Home Depot water pressure gauge hooked to the port in the engine compartment. If you get 0.75L per minute flow and have a stable 28-30 psi on the gauge...your testing and wondering is over and its an injection signal issue. Ray |
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potterjon
Samba Member
Joined: January 31, 2016
Posts: 74
Location: North Carolina
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| Posted: Wed May 25, 2016 2:26 pm Post subject: Re: How to check fuel pump? |
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The fuel filter is facing the correct direction because it has arrows on the side of it but I did just double check to make sure. I also removed the plastic fuel filter from the return line. I have no idea why it was there. I just assume someone put it there in the past as a secondary safeguard or something. I will be more than happy to check the flow and volume if I could just get gas out of the pump.
I feel like I checked it every way I can today. You can hear the pump cycle for a second when you turn the key in the on position but nothing comes out. I had the line from the pump going into a mason jar.
What I ended up doing was just pulling the battery out of the car and hooking the pump up to it directly. Still nothing came out into the mason jar so I figured I would just prime the pump. So I hooked up 5 feet of fuel line going to the pump and 5 feet leaving the pump. The line going to the pump was sitting in a quart jar of gasoline and the line leaving the pump was going to a gas can. The pump kicked on and drank about a quart of gas or just under but absolutely nothing cam out into the gas can. I have double, triple , and quadruple checked to make sure the pump is hooked up the right way. When I reversed polarity on the pump it shot bubbles in to the jar of gasoline. So yes the pump is working but nothing is coming out of the line going to the main loop which is coming from the center of the pump. The only thing I can possibly think of is that somehow the two lines on this pump are switched compared to the diagram and all the info I have gotten. Meaning that the pressure line and the return line are somehow reversed in this pump. I am going to eat dinner and try it the other way around and see if that is the case. Other than that, I have no idea where that quart of gas could have gone because the pump definitely drank it up.
I hooked the lines back up the way the diagram says to and tried to start the car and still no joy. By the way, how do you get to the hard lines in the back of the car? |
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Mike Fisher
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Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17970
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Wed May 25, 2016 2:42 pm Post subject: Re: How to check fuel pump? |
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The metal fuel hard lines come out near the heater wire's controls. The supply is on the driver side. If your passenger side return line is plugged up the car will never run! A $5 Remote Starter Button from Harbor Freight is a must if you are working alone. 
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69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21519
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Wed May 25, 2016 3:27 pm Post subject: Re: How to check fuel pump? |
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| potterjon wrote: |
The fuel filter is facing the correct direction because it has arrows on the side of it but I did just double check to make sure. I also removed the plastic fuel filter from the return line. I have no idea why it was there. I just assume someone put it there in the past as a secondary safeguard or something. I will be more than happy to check the flow and volume if I could just get gas out of the pump.
I feel like I checked it every way I can today. You can hear the pump cycle for a second when you turn the key in the on position but nothing comes out. I had the line from the pump going into a mason jar.
What I ended up doing was just pulling the battery out of the car and hooking the pump up to it directly. Still nothing came out into the mason jar so I figured I would just prime the pump. So I hooked up 5 feet of fuel line going to the pump and 5 feet leaving the pump. The line going to the pump was sitting in a quart jar of gasoline and the line leaving the pump was going to a gas can. The pump kicked on and drank about a quart of gas or just under but absolutely nothing cam out into the gas can. I have double, triple , and quadruple checked to make sure the pump is hooked up the right way. When I reversed polarity on the pump it shot bubbles in to the jar of gasoline. So yes the pump is working but nothing is coming out of the line going to the main loop which is coming from the center of the pump. The only thing I can possibly think of is that somehow the two lines on this pump are switched compared to the diagram and all the info I have gotten. Meaning that the pressure line and the return line are somehow reversed in this pump. I am going to eat dinner and try it the other way around and see if that is the case. Other than that, I have no idea where that quart of gas could have gone because the pump definitely drank it up.
I hooked the lines back up the way the diagram says to and tried to start the car and still no joy. By the way, how do you get to the hard lines in the back of the car? |
The fuel it sucked up....went out the return/relief valve nipple.
The pump actually makes more volume/pressure than required...and some becomes back pressure. Thats whats the relief valve does. Effectively its a check and pressure relief valve.
If just a dribble was coming from the center pressure relief valve I would suggest that the relief valve is shot and bypassing your pressure back to the tank.
The outlet port inside of the pump on the pressure side is only about 3/32" in diameter. Its possible it got clogged up.
Hook your pump back up in test mode like you had it.....and when it starts draing gas...crimp off the "R" hose for a second or two and see what happens.
By the way...just like in the picture....the port designations should be stamped/cast in your pump housing....S, D, R....
These issues are also why I have gotten away from the stock D-jet pumps...as good as they were. This is not a sleight on Jim Adney's abilities.
There is no such thing as a complete rebuild of these pumps. It snot like you can order new parts. Its a refurbishment/Reseal. In a pinch one could replace the cup bearings on the motor if they are bad...rare.
And I understand he has sourced the proper square profile o-rings....and mastered the body crimp and seal.....but....the rollers and the roller cell rotor are still 40+ years old. There is wear, some potential rust or pitting...and tolerances will never be "new". If they are off by even .001" in some locations.....pumping will be down.
I have refurbed more than a few back in the day. I used to have to have the o-rings made by a company called seal-jet. Now you can buy them in many places equipped the same way. I have had more than a few that just never pumped again. Whether the two piece pump block had a little more or less gap from an o-ring...or the rotor or rollers were just worn beyond....I never figured out.
It sounds like yous may be clogged. Blow through the ports with compressed air. Ray |
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potterjon
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Joined: January 31, 2016
Posts: 74
Location: North Carolina
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| Posted: Thu May 26, 2016 8:26 am Post subject: Re: How to check fuel pump? |
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Thanks for your response Ray,
That is actually the only viable reason that I can think of why this pump is not letting any gas out. I honesty don't see the point in trying to blow it out because even if that works I don't think I would trust the pump again. I believe we will just have to go with airtex version which is what we were trying to avoid simply because we actually have the original pump and thought it could be fixed. I suppose I didn't realize that it was basically just going to be resealed. I guess the real question is, did he actually pump fuel through it or just see if it was turning on and spinning. I guess I assumed he would pump fuel actually threw it. |
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raygreenwood
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Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21519
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Thu May 26, 2016 11:38 am Post subject: Re: How to check fuel pump? |
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| potterjon wrote: |
Thanks for your response Ray,
That is actually the only viable reason that I can think of why this pump is not letting any gas out. I honesty don't see the point in trying to blow it out because even if that works I don't think I would trust the pump again. I believe we will just have to go with airtex version which is what we were trying to avoid simply because we actually have the original pump and thought it could be fixed. I suppose I didn't realize that it was basically just going to be resealed. I guess the real question is, did he actually pump fuel through it or just see if it was turning on and spinning. I guess I assumed he would pump fuel actually threw it. |
From everything I hear...Jim is pretty meticulous. I would bet he checked it to see if it pumped.
But....it could be as simple as a rust flake that was missed somewhere either when you installed it...or one that was hiding somewhere in the motor casing...bearing in mind that these pumps circulate fuel through the motor windings for coolant and lubricant.
The outlet from the roller cell is small. Ray |
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potterjon
Samba Member
Joined: January 31, 2016
Posts: 74
Location: North Carolina
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| Posted: Thu May 26, 2016 7:50 pm Post subject: Re: How to check fuel pump? |
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| I am not down on Jim or anything, he has been very helpful and responsive. I just want the problem resolved and if moving on to the airtex pump is the way to go we will go that route. |
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potterjon
Samba Member
Joined: January 31, 2016
Posts: 74
Location: North Carolina
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| Posted: Fri May 27, 2016 6:54 pm Post subject: Re: How to check fuel pump? |
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So I ended up getting the CarQuest version of the airtex 2000 pump as no one locally seemed to be carrying the airtex make any more. Both stores I went to said they had too many problems with the airtex version. It was right at $90. It came with all the appropriate parts including the rubber sleeve which I actually didn't end up needing. I chose to go with ring terminals instead of a plug type of fitting. I moved the pump bracket to the center of the beam and pushed it to one side. It cranked right up and I drove it to the store to get some gas but only had a dollar in my pocket so I went back home. 
The fuel gauge still isn't working and I am really hoping it is only because it has about two or three gallons of gas in it and it just isn't sending the float up the wires. Also, the speedo just stopped working which kind of bummed me out but at least it is running. I replaced the fuel line going across the engine between the injectors also. The only one that I can see that is left as braided is the one going under the manifold. So I will do that next.
I did end up speaking to Jim Adney over the phone today and we are probably going to send the pump back to him so he can try and figure out what went wrong with it. He said he has only had about 3 out of 70 that he has refurbished that ended up not working and he has yet to have anyone send one back to him for him to try and diagnose the problem. He also offered to refund our money which I thought was very respectable of him. He has been very patient and prompt and I couldn't really ask for better service. I just think we happened to be one of the rare ones that didn't end up working. He did say that he doesn't actually pump fuel through them because of the concern of shipping it back to the customer wet with fuel. I actually thought about that before he even mentioned it.
Thanks for everyone's help! |
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KTPhil 
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Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34013
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Fri May 27, 2016 9:09 pm Post subject: Re: How to check fuel pump? |
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| potterjon wrote: |
The fuel gauge still isn't working and I am really hoping it is only because it has about two or three gallons of gas in it and it just isn't sending the float up the wires. Also, the speedo just stopped working which kind of bummed me out but at least it is running. |
If you have 2-3 gallons, your gauge will show it. R still has about 1 gallon left. Remove the wire to the sender, and ground it. Your gauge should read full. If it does, it's the sender. If it doesn't, it's the wire or gauge.
| potterjon wrote: |
| I replaced the fuel line going across the engine between the injectors also. The only one that I can see that is left as braided is the one going under the manifold. So I will do that next. |
That's the hose to your cold start jet. I'd replace it for safety's sake, since it is under full pressure all the time.
| potterjon wrote: |
I did end up speaking to Jim Adney over the phone today and we are probably going to send the pump back to him so he can try and figure out what went wrong with it. He said he has only had about 3 out of 70 that he has refurbished that ended up not working and he has yet to have anyone send one back to him for him to try and diagnose the problem. He also offered to refund our money which I thought was very respectable of him. He has been very patient and prompt and I couldn't really ask for better service. I just think we happened to be one of the rare ones that didn't end up working. He did say that he doesn't actually pump fuel through them because of the concern of shipping it back to the customer wet with fuel. I actually thought about that before he even mentioned it.
Thanks for everyone's help! |
Jim is honest and patient. I'm not surprised he's taking care of you. |
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Donnie strickland
Samba Member
Joined: December 21, 2009
Posts: 2403
Location: Moody, AL
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| Posted: Sat May 28, 2016 4:24 am Post subject: Re: How to check fuel pump? |
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If your sender is bad, Jim Adney can rebuild them, or you can buy them new.
_________________
71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback |
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potterjon
Samba Member
Joined: January 31, 2016
Posts: 74
Location: North Carolina
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| Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 12:13 pm Post subject: Re: How to check fuel pump? |
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I actually had Jim Adney rebuild the fuel sender also and I don't believe it is working either. I checked the gauge again by hooking it up to ground and it read full. I didn't look at it really before I installed and I have not pulled it to check and make sure it is working yet.
After replacing the fuel pump with the new one the car cranked right up. It is idling very high and if you let your foot of the brake the car lurches forward and it seems like it would do 15 mph without even touching the gas. When I pull into our gravel driveway and hit the brakes the car slides a few feet which has me really worried because if it were to slide too far it would either go down and embankment or run into the house depending on which parking spot you use. But at least it's running. Not great but it's running. I have ordered this fuel pressure gauge and it should ship in the morning.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#3548k11/=1153ffv
I am pretty eager to see what it reads. How do I hook it up and do I need anything else? Now that it is running I am eager to find vacuum leaks and such as I am sure there are some and from what I have read, that may lead to it running rich. |
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