Bed liner

[casey79westfalia]

Guys this product can be topcoated.

Wow Terry you really don't know about paint at all and your comments are speaking that. I'm perfectly ok with you acting like you know what your talking about. You still haven't read the tech sheet I guess or you would have responded appropriately. Raptor contains no rubber read page 7 now. You can control the texture of the bedliner with air pressure I sprayed at 60psi not to low at all. Again you don't know what your talking about. I actually sprayed a bunch of test shots on paper before deciding on the texture. Knowone cares about your Mack trucks from 1979. Again read the tech sheet. Read the tech sheet. Read the tech sheet. Now I know why there is a thread dedicated to members tired of a holes like you. Try harder to be a nice person that can play well with others. Don't cut my work down. Heres the tech sheet again if you ever do decide to follow it.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&...Txr6DunrOw
_________________
66 Westfalia
87 Westfalia Syncro "Phoenix"
88 Double Cab
76 Porsche 914
2014 Audi Q7
2010 Tdi Sportwagen

Currently looking for 62 Double Cab, 66 Westfalia Parts!
(Rear seat and pedestal, bumpers, mirrors)

http://www.baycountrymotors.com

My 87 Syncro Westfalia 1.8t Restoration

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=418933

"Do it the right way, or you'll pay for it"

[casey79westfalia]

Just to give some more helpful advice check this stuff out as well guys. Chip guard. Also a urethane product, also topcoatble. I don't like calling any of these products "bedliner" cause they are a bit different. None of these products are a true rubber bedliner. They are a urethane product that cures pretty hard. Most newer vehicles along the bottom have a 3-4" band along the bottom where you have a textured finish to protect from rocks and chipping. They call it chip guard, it's the same thing. It's a urethane however some are acrylic coatings that you can topcoat with sealer base and clear. It's essentially the same type of product as the rhino just marketed differently. Sem makes a version I like in aerosol and two part. The two-part is much better even though I have never seen any aerosol fail yet. Hope this helps.

http://www.semproducts.com/refinish-chip-guards/pro-textm-2k-chip-guard-kit
_________________
66 Westfalia
87 Westfalia Syncro "Phoenix"
88 Double Cab
76 Porsche 914
2014 Audi Q7
2010 Tdi Sportwagen

Currently looking for 62 Double Cab, 66 Westfalia Parts!
(Rear seat and pedestal, bumpers, mirrors)

http://www.baycountrymotors.com

My 87 Syncro Westfalia 1.8t Restoration

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=418933

"Do it the right way, or you'll pay for it"

[Terry Kay]

I don't have to read the poop sheet on this Raptor, as I have I used it--often, and do know how to apply it so it doesn't come out as a faux sandbox as you managed to duplicate.

But--just to appease you, I hit the first sentence in the first paragraph--
I Read This;

"U-POL’s RAPTOR Truck Bed Liner is a durable 2K polyurethane coating that provides surfaces with a
protective barrier."

"Dries rapidly, is flexible, and helps deaden sound and vibrations"

"Can be tinted to match any color."

Well, so it isn't urethane
My glasses must be fogged up a little here this evening.
Better back off of that lacquer thinner--you missed the first line of the very first paragraph--

Nothing will stick to it without seriously cutting into the surface of it-- after it is totally set up, it is flexible, and zero topcoats of anything other than the original material will stick the way you went at it--period..

It's the exact same useless act of trying to get acrylic enamel or lacquer, or any basecoat to stick on top of Imron, or Delthane--which are also a urethane top coat, flexible, and solvent proof--

Nowhere in that blurb does it even get close to mentioning that you can top coat the product immediately after application--with anything else but itself.

You twisted something up here.

Now--try and load me up with something that I might have forgot.

I am just trying to prevent anyone else here that is reading your posts from making the same mistakes.

And I see you yanked all of the masking tape within 15 minutes of application--as per.
_________________
T.K.

[tosimplify]

[casey79westfalia]

I won't entertain you any more. You don't agree with me or raptor or anyone in this forum, I see that alot. Your so wrong about urethane. Urethane is flexible and so is the urethane sealer and base and clear I applied over it. I baked my bedliner and waited a week before I scuffed adhesion promoted and applied topcoat and yes I pulled the tape immediately as I finished my pictures. I'm very happy with my job that will have carpet over top of most on it. Not my first rodeo. Anyone wants actual advice again read the tech sheet. This old grumpy turd still hasn't. But he's sure here to prove me wrong and upol and the paint industry with this obscure data. Pm me if you need any help. Or let Terry write five page dissertations on his know it all methods. I'm sure he'll have a couple fans.. Good day.
_________________
66 Westfalia
87 Westfalia Syncro "Phoenix"
88 Double Cab
76 Porsche 914
2014 Audi Q7
2010 Tdi Sportwagen

Currently looking for 62 Double Cab, 66 Westfalia Parts!
(Rear seat and pedestal, bumpers, mirrors)

http://www.baycountrymotors.com

My 87 Syncro Westfalia 1.8t Restoration

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=418933

"Do it the right way, or you'll pay for it"

[insyncro]

[ScottShelley]

Casey, Thanks for posting, especially all the pictures. This is a prime example of why people are not stoked about posting here. You get excited about something you've done or figured out, you post it and then someone jumps in and tells you that you are and idiot. That is what the whole Houston thread was about. Unfortunately, the moderators don't have the will or maybe the authority to do anything about it. Anyway, thanks again.

[SyncroChrick]

[insyncro]

It happens, read the end of the Houston thread.
Some point the finger and than go and do the same thing.
When all they say is "oops", we aren't moving forward.

Again, great thread here with great info and pictures.

Use your ignore list

[casey79westfalia]

Thanks Guys. I am honestly tired of the rude comments. I simply came in to help and it turned into this whole trying to defend my method and process. I just got off the phone with my ppg rep and spoke with u-pol as I am so frustrated with the misinformation. I run a certified ppg paint shop that was achieved for consistent quality results over the years. I'm not tooting my own horn by any means as I have a great group of guys working with me that I trust and paint reps that I trust. They dont certify shops that redo cars alot and have paint falling off the cars. I feel good about my work. Sorry.

Lets Get back to the original poster please To clear up the thread I thought I would simplify my method and process to clean up the thread and hopefully offer help to the original poster. I confirmed with my ppg rep this morning and upol that we did things just right according to them. I think I trust them a bit more then users on this forum since they see alot more of this stuff then any of us and I have a great relationship with them and they have proven success to me.

Step 1:

Prep area to apply bedliner with 120/180 and then clean with a good degreaser/prep cleaner.

Step 2:

Depending on your existing paint surface you can apply the bedliner directly over your existing paint after properly sanding and cleaning. In my case and many of yours I had a few areas that needed primer and I was doing my jambs all in one application. You have to understand mechanical adhesion (sanding) and chemical adhesion (bonding of chemicals) this is what flash time is all about and why you need to be in those windows for attachment. This is where things can get dangerous with products. In my case i applied a epoxy coating to the entire interior as I wanted a complete corrosion barrier, especially since I had lots of grinded and exposed metal. I dont trust the bedliner as a protective layer fro rust or corrosion, this is why I chose epoxy here. The key is to apply the bedliner within the topcoat window of the epoxy beneath it. That way there is a "chemical" adhesion between the two products and the bedliner on top. Depending on the product if you wait to long the epoxy will have to be rescuffed and the bedliner will now attach thru a mechanical adhesion when sprayed. Hope that makes sense. I did ask upol about this and they said its perfectly fine to do this and they recommend this method. You could also spray the epoxy and wait until the following day or so and rescuff and shoot the bedliner. I like the chemical adhesion so I chose that route in my situation.

Step 3:
Put a piece of paper on the wall to test spray pattern. I like to be around 40-60psi for the desired texture, its a personal preference. Spray two even coats making sure to check for coverage. I like to use a 3m sunlight to check for transparent areas but any light will be better then none. Get back in all the corners and really overlap or you will get striping. Put a nice even coat on and allow 40 minutes between coats for proper flash. I bake at the end of final coat to help it cure but not needed. When done take pictures and remove tape. Thats what I always do.

Step 4:
I waited a week as I had alot of prep to do to my jambs and did my jambs and the top coating all in one application with the same batch of paint. In this round I scuffed the bedliner with a red scuff pad (320) making sure to really press into the pad for best sanding in the texture. This is why I recommend the adhesion promoter and so does upol read the tech sheet. The adhesion promoter is a clear sticky glue that you spray on the bedliner that really gives an aggressive chemical bite. Now when you spray your sealer it will grab right on. Again I am using a urethane paint system all the way through from sealer to clear. Its meant to have some flexibility. I cant suggest anything but urethane in this application. Follow these steps and you should have success like I did.

Keep in mind I am spraying this as a sound deader in my interior. Its not necessary to top coat. I suggest this method for color matching and makes it alot easier to clean off when it gets dirty. Mine will end up getting covered up with carpet and a cushion over the back where the 1.8t engine frame will sit.
_________________
66 Westfalia
87 Westfalia Syncro "Phoenix"
88 Double Cab
76 Porsche 914
2014 Audi Q7
2010 Tdi Sportwagen

Currently looking for 62 Double Cab, 66 Westfalia Parts!
(Rear seat and pedestal, bumpers, mirrors)

http://www.baycountrymotors.com

My 87 Syncro Westfalia 1.8t Restoration

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=418933

"Do it the right way, or you'll pay for it"

[Terry Kay]

I just got off the phone with my Dupont rep.

I forwarded this crazy thread to him, he called me back with his reply--

Now, mind you he has only been around this stuff for 30 years, so he just might be off a little.

First of all, if I was prepping any surface that was to be accepting a urethane top coat, I would have used a urethane primer / sealer.
I would have used color tint in the bedliner rather than trying to get an exact match using base coat.
Line X does it this way, most professional shops around here using the U-Pol system do to.
It is the closest match that your going to get--because the Line X & the U-pol is a cream color, not clear, and your are fighting that using a base coat trying to get an exact match.
Using a base coat is close, but not a dead on match.

A wet on wet application on top of the bedliner is not recommended because you're losing the intended elasticity of the bedliner, you would be applying a product (s) not intended to be as flexible as the U-Pol bedliner.

Why in the heck are you trying to straighten out what this guy messed up?
It's all over now, he all already applied the top coats of totally different products on top of the bedliner.
He has created the problem, he will have a big headache getting this repaired when the base clear starts rolling off.

Line X uses straight tint , comes to the closest match of the original colors anywhere, why didn't this guy do that?

He could have used a flex agent in whatever he top coated the bedliner with, but it's really expensive, like $90.00 a pint.
Tinting the bedliner would have been the right way, less expensive to go .

Take it for what it's worth, right from the suppliers mouth.

You may apply whatever, any way you want--you just used way too much product to get to the same place you were trying to get to, plus lost a bunch of the surface elasticity of the product you wanted to use in the first place.

In my opinion you took the long way around the block, spent twice as much to cover up and get a closer match to the rest of the vehicle and intended applied product.
_________________
T.K.

[casey79westfalia]

Still not reading the tech sheet I guess or any of the posts above but hey his so called buddy works for dupont for 30 years lets listen to his buddy. Take his advice or someone that's in the business doing it daily and posting the results for us all to share in.... His buddy knows more then the company making the products apparently. Im done with you and your the only person on my blocked list like half the other samba members. Go produce something worthwhile to share with us all so we can see what your doing with your life that gives you the right to be such a know it all. Peace out. The thread is all yours now. Get back to convincing these people you are right. I dont care anymore. Im on to other projects. Im the helpful guy your the ahole. Think you made that clear.
_________________
66 Westfalia
87 Westfalia Syncro "Phoenix"
88 Double Cab
76 Porsche 914
2014 Audi Q7
2010 Tdi Sportwagen

Currently looking for 62 Double Cab, 66 Westfalia Parts!
(Rear seat and pedestal, bumpers, mirrors)

http://www.baycountrymotors.com

My 87 Syncro Westfalia 1.8t Restoration

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=418933

"Do it the right way, or you'll pay for it"

[casey79westfalia]

6 month update. Not a single chip in the surface on the clear coated areas or kitchen floor and I have been harder on the surface then it would ever be when camping. Truthfully I cant believe the sliding door opening threshold has not even chipped with all the standing there messing with the pop top I have done. Ive dropped tools, stepped on screws, slid objects, drilled holes and I have been in and out of the van with my dirty shoes doing my 1.8t conversion about a million times.My three year old has also been stomping around in there from time to time impatiently waiting the day we can camp . I purposely left the floor uncovered so I could see if it would hold up. Keep in mind I am putting a finished floor over top of this anyhow but wanted to attest to its durability. This would do very well for anyone wanting to use it as their primary floor covering.Heres a pic after a quick wipe with a rag. Don't overthink it, it works Now I gotta cover it up.

_________________
66 Westfalia
87 Westfalia Syncro "Phoenix"
88 Double Cab
76 Porsche 914
2014 Audi Q7
2010 Tdi Sportwagen

Currently looking for 62 Double Cab, 66 Westfalia Parts!
(Rear seat and pedestal, bumpers, mirrors)

http://www.baycountrymotors.com

My 87 Syncro Westfalia 1.8t Restoration

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=418933

"Do it the right way, or you'll pay for it"

[zuhandenheit]

I took a chance on monstaliner back when it was just getting popular with Jeeps. I liked the idea that it was a proper two-part coating. I found it to be very easy to work with, and so far it's been durable.

I didn't do the whole thing, and I just used black, but at least I can vouch for the quality of the product.

Bit of missing paint here, which was later fixed:

[casey79westfalia]

[buspor63]

Does anyone think a liner product on the roof of a tin top would have any heat reflective or sound deadening qualities?
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Imagine that, theres not an "h" in either Westfalia or Syncro?

[MidwestDrifter]

Any light colored paint/coating/bedliner will reduce solar gain on the roof. Any product that adds weight will make a difference in resonance. Heavy bedliners would make the most difference.
_________________
2004 Dodge/Mercedes Sprinter (Custom Camper)
2000 Jetta TDI
1982 Diesel Westy W/ ABA I4 hybrid (Sold)
Epic Road Tripping since 08/05/12 | http://VagariesAbound.blogspot.com/
My Current Build | http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41215

[Zeitgeist 13]

I'd think that a purpose built sound deadening product like Lizard Skin would be way more useful for insulating than plain old bedliner
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[MidwestDrifter]

[buspor63]

My thought was an easy way to accomplish those two goals plus covering the fading grey paint on the exterior. To install the interior stick on pads would require the head liner to come down, not something I'm interested in doing
_________________
Imagine that, theres not an "h" in either Westfalia or Syncro?