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1969 Baja build
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2016 12:02 am    Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build Reply with quote

"This class is a stock production class and all components must remain stock except for those modifications allowed herein"

"Rear package trays must remain in stock location and remain stock size."

I would say that you should have a VW Bug rear package tray in there.
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Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
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BryceSegatto
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2016 9:54 am    Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build Reply with quote

Thank you for the clarification, it's junk yard time!
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BryceSegatto
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2016 2:26 pm    Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build Reply with quote

So I went to the junk yard and they only had newer bugs. I asked where the nearest yard was that dealt with the older bugs and it's a bit of a drive so before I drive out there I want to ask this because I've seen someone do it before and it don't look bad. Can I measure the curves in the luggage compartment and match it up to a truck bed and cut the bed of the truck out and weld it in? Or do you think I should drive out to the other yard to cut out a real luggage tray? I think the truck bed would be stronger in the long run. Thoughts?...I know the rules say "cannot be modified", but do you think tech would frown apon this?

EDIT: I called the salvage yard that deals with the bugs and for a luggage tray its $125 if I have to I will but if I can get away with the bed I'm going to. I think I'm going to cut out the bed for around $30 and if it looks wrong I'm going to have to buy the one from the yard.

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Dark Earth
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 16, 2016 2:06 pm    Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build Reply with quote

I'm gonna offer some advice without any knowledge of the rules regarding firewalls. The savings you would get by installing truck bed steel vs. original VW steel is not much savings (upside).

If your car fails tech inspection AFTER the roll cage is installed through truck bed steel, it is not worth the savings because you would sit out that race. Also, the money required to then repair the firewall to original VW after the failed tech inspection and the additional roll cage modifications as a result of the firewall change makes the truck bed steel not worth it. (downside)

It's a gamble I wouldn't take if I were in your shoes.
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BryceSegatto
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2016 12:11 am    Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build Reply with quote

Agree with that!
Quote:
it's a gamble I wouldn't take if I were in your shoes.
. I'll take your advice... "Any job worth doing is a job worth doing right" not worth the extra $1000 and the possibility of ruining the roll cage.
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Bashr52
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2016 4:45 am    Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build Reply with quote

dustymojave wrote:
"This class is a stock production class and all components must remain stock except for those modifications allowed herein"

"Rear package trays must remain in stock location and remain stock size."

I would say that you should have a VW Bug rear package tray in there.


This sounds to me like its subject to interpretation. As long as you have a package tray in the stock location and is the stock size, I see no limitation on material?
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2016 4:55 pm    Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build Reply with quote

Bashr52 wrote:
dustymojave wrote:
"This class is a stock production class and all components must remain stock except for those modifications allowed herein"

"Rear package trays must remain in stock location and remain stock size."

I would say that you should have a VW Bug rear package tray in there.


This sounds to me like its subject to interpretation. As long as you have a package tray in the stock location and is the stock size, I see no limitation on material?


Bashr...You and Bryce are thinking like most racers.

But the part missed is my quote from the rule book.

"all components must remain stock except for those modifications allowed "
"Rear package trays must remain in stock location and remain stock size."

The second sentence is redundant in that it specifies something that is stated in the 1st sentence. From the 1st "all components must remain stock" The 2nd sentence says "must REMAIN"...Both translate to whatever language as what it does NOT say you CAN change, you CANNOT change.


So Dark Earth is right. Truck bed steel would not be an appropriate replacement. It might be stouter. It might weigh more. It WOULD BE VERY difficult to imitate the stock NOT flat panel down to the back of the pan. Only a stock VW panel is acceptable. You MIGHT get it past Tech, but any competitor in your class could protest and get you disqualified. Why go to the huge amount of effort and cost to race and then have it thrown out?

$125 is totally unacceptable for a panel. It could come from absolutely ANY year model Bug. Get into the Classifieds here and look through the build threads to seek one from another users Bug. My son threw away a LOT of those panels when he worked at Crumco building 5-Open racers and play Bajas. There should be SOMEONE on here to get a panel from who cut theirs out in building a Baja.
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Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
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BryceSegatto
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2016 11:24 pm    Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build Reply with quote

Thanks for the help guys! I'll look around! Back pages it is!
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BryceSegatto
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 18, 2016 5:14 pm    Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build Reply with quote

New YouTube video is up! I give a walk around of the bug and some plans for what I'll be doing next. If you want to see more of the bug in video instead of just pictures on here, check the YouTube page out. Subscribe to watch the build!

http://youtu.be/3Rl_7Q0qLNk
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 19, 2016 6:05 pm    Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build Reply with quote

What is that ignition coil? It's a Flamethrower, is it for a VW Bug? A VW coil has a built-in resistor to reduce the voltage. Many other car companies use an external resistor on the coil circuit. I suspect that is at least part of the cause of the fried wires. I recommend a Bosch Blue coil for a Bug. Many racers use fancy electronic ignitions, But that's more money that doesn't make a substantial difference in performance, regardless of what salesmen will tell you.
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Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.
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BryceSegatto
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2016 1:16 am    Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build Reply with quote

That makes sense, too much power fries wires. I will buy the blue vw coil. That idea was in the back of my mind, but I never realized it was a real problem until now. After a charge the battery there was enough voltage to fry the wires. Before the battery wasn't really charged so the coil wasn't producing enough power to fry the wire, but enough to start the engine. Makes sense...
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Dark Earth
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 5:51 am    Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build Reply with quote

Well, I finally got a chance to watch your Youtube video. Something just didn't look right. I was looking at the coil since DustyMojave commented on it. I went out to the garage to look at my coil, and I believe you have the wires backwards. My condenser wire ( the green one ) goes to the right side of the coil, and my power wire ( your red wire ) goes to the left side. To confirm I have mine wired right, I checked a schematic.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The condenser wire ( the green one ) goes to #1 on the coil. It's the right side of a blue coil. The 12 volt power goes to the #15 on the coil. It's the left side of a blue coil.

To test the resistance of the coil, you can hook 12 volts up to the left side ( #15 terminal ) ... put the red test lead of a voltage meter on the right side of the coil ( #1 terminal ) and the black test lead of a voltage meter to a good ground. You should have less than a 12 volt reading. Otherwise you're gonna ruin points. If you have 12 volts, you'll need to get a new coil, like the Blue Coil DustyMojave suggested. An external ballast resistor could be used to lower the 12 volts, but I agree with the Blue Coil and even have one myself.

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( The PO added an extension to the condenser wire. Don't know why. When I get around to buying new points and condenser, I'll just plug the condenser directly to the coil without adding extra wire to it Confused )
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Dark Earth
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 6:23 am    Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build Reply with quote

Also, in your Youtube video, you mention your distributors being ruined because of the fried condensers. More than likely those distributors are just fine. You can't ruin a distributor by just frying a condenser. If you just install new points and condenser in the distributors, odds are they will be like new again. Distributors are ruined when they get excessive slop in the shaft causing erratic firing and problems with the points.

And ... One last thing ... I wouldn't put a fuse between the ignition switch and the coil. Right now it looks like you have a power wire, from the battery, going directly to the coil. I hope you pull the wire off the coil to shut the engine off. Pulling the wire off the battery to shut off the engine might cause a spark. A spark next to the explosive gases the battery might be producing is very dangerous. That's why you hook the ground of jumper cables to a ground away from the battery and not to the negative battery terminal. You don't want any sparks around your battery. It can explode believe it or not.

Do yourself a favor, and install an ignition switch. A toggle switch will work for the ignition, with a push button switch to handle the starter duties.

I just use the original ignition switch my bug came with, but I'm not gonna race it Confused
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Dark Earth
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 7:02 am    Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build Reply with quote

Dark Earth wrote:


To test the resistance of the coil, you can hook 12 volts up to the left side ( #15 terminal ) ... put the red test lead of a voltage meter on the right side of the coil ( #1 terminal ) and the black test lead of a voltage meter to a good ground. You should have less than a 12 volt reading. Otherwise you're gonna ruin points. If you have 12 volts, you'll need to get a new coil, like the Blue Coil DustyMojave suggested. An external ballast resistor could be used to lower the 12 volts, but I agree with the Blue Coil and even have one myself.

Correction...

I should have said ... To test the "voltage" of the coil, you can hook 12 volts up to the left side ( #15 terminal ) ... put the red test lead of a voltage meter on the right side of the coil ( #1 terminal ) and the black test lead of a voltage meter to a good ground. You should have less than a 12 volt reading. Otherwise you're gonna ruin points. If you have 12 volts, you'll need to get a new coil, like the Blue Coil DustyMojave suggested. An external ballast resistor could be used to lower the 12 volts, but I agree with the Blue Coil and even have one myself.

To check "resistance" of the coil you'd hook an ohm meter, one lead to the #1 and one lead to #15 and measure resistance through the coil.
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Dark Earth
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 8:39 am    Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build Reply with quote

So, I went back out to the garage and measured the voltage on the condenser side of the coil ( #1 ) to ground, with the points open and I got 11.64 volts. I measured the voltage on the ignition side of the coil ( #15 ) to ground and got 11.64 volts.

I measured ohms between #1 and #15 and got 1.9 ohms when the points are closed and 3.6 ohms when the points are open.

I can't really explain why there is no voltage drop across the coil.

But, I can assure you, if you hook the coil up according to the schematic, you'll have it right.

Sorry to hijack your thread. That really wasn't my intent. d'oh!
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GoMopar440
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 11:56 am    Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build Reply with quote

Dark Earth wrote:
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(The PO added an extension to the condenser wire. Don't know why...

Could it possibly be an inline wire type of fusable link? If so, I'm not sure how you would test it to make sure it is. Resistance of the wire possibly? Just throwing ideas out there FWIW.
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Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493
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BryceSegatto
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2016 1:00 am    Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build Reply with quote

Very helpful! And your not taking over the page your giving help to not only me, but to lots of others who go through this forum! Thank you! Read below and I think I found the problem...


I'm back everyone!
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Jamaica was nice! I'm happy to be home and back in the garage. I ordered a few parts that should be here before April 11th. I'm dropping the transmission this week and installing my new parts (everything to rebuild the parts on the shift rod assembly) I'm going to clean the transmission up and post it to all the back pages for a really fair price, but until it sells I will keep it on my car until I get a bus 5 rib transaxle. I sold my carburetor and am going to buy a new one along with a bosh vw coil. I asked a friend that has owned beetles for ever since his last name is "beetle"! He said chances are your frying wires because the coil isn't for vw's it doesn't have a regulator in it. So I will get the vw coil. And I triple checked my connections and I knew it was right I am pretty sure the coil was the problem...after I load the transaxle and engine up in a week or so I will put together the front end and order wheels and tires. My friend sold me a 4-5 lug conversion for the rear (just until I buy the bus trans, I don't want to buy 4 lug rims when I will only use them for 2-3 months) so the transaxle in there will be to test everything when it's all together. I have all the metal for the cage, but I have decided to get the main hoops bent to shape then just focus on getting the car on some wheels!!

- pull transaxle and replace shift rod parts
- buy carb coil and distributor parts
- re-assemble the rear end
- buy and assemble front end
-order rims and maybe tires
- buy and instal rack and pinion
- instal seats and dash with gauges
- finish roll cage
- I may have forgotten a few things, but this is a rough layout!
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Dark Earth
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2016 7:06 pm    Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build Reply with quote

Check out these youtube videos ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W94iksaQwUo ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8vSwfnX3Xc ... The coil one is pretty long, but the guy goes into some detail. It's not a VW coil in the video, but the concept of testing is the same. Also, I've heard of guys on this site running their batteries dead and frying ignitions by leaving the key on to listen to the radio. When the points are closed and the key is on ... it's a bad deal. Anyway ... food for thought
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BryceSegatto
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2016 9:56 am    Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build Reply with quote

That may be another reason... I wired up just a push to start no toggle switch... So the power was never shut off, continuous power isn't good for som 12 gauge wire...
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BryceSegatto
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 9:16 pm    Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build Reply with quote

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Got started on pulling the transaxle. Like I have previously said I ordered everything to replace the shift rod couplers and bushings. I got to the very last part and realized the two big bolts in the front are 29mm and not 30mm like I thought. Oh well, autozone tomorrow. Once I take the transaxle out I'll take the brake drums off and this car will no joke be stripped. More pictures to come!
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