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Diving In. 1st Engine Rebuild
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Abouna
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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2016 4:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Diving In. 1st Engine Rebuild Reply with quote

So I've made a lot of progress. I'm now fitting the tins, and after having had to trim, pound, bend, push and shove, I've got them nearly totally fit. It was, to put it bluntly, a pain in the a55. But I'm happy with the results. They fit okay I think.

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So today I picked up some spark plugs and thought I'd try to get those threaded in and the plug wires test fit. I discover that the plug boots I bought are gigantic, thick, and unyielding. There is no possible way I'm going to get these to squeeze between the tin and my intake manifold. Some helpful advice here would be like GOLD.

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Now I'm also thinking about how I'm ever going to change plugs 1 and 3 with the engine in the car. Do folks take the manifold off? Which means taking the carb linkage apart? Sheesh. I am beginning to regret dual carbs. This was fun 6 months ago, but I'm getting weary. It seems everytime I make what seems like progress, I'm faced with another big problem. Somebody give me some encouragement!

I was pretty meticulous about bagging and tagging, but I've got this washer kicking around in an unlabeled bag. Can anyone identify it? It's a big wave-type lock washer.


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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2016 4:33 pm    Post subject: Re: Diving In. 1st Engine Rebuild Reply with quote

Get good plug wires, the boots will work better.

That washer is for the gland nut (Flywheel bolt).
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vugbug68
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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2016 5:10 pm    Post subject: Re: Diving In. 1st Engine Rebuild Reply with quote

Abouna wrote:

Now I'm also thinking about how I'm ever going to change plugs 1 and 3 with the engine in the car. Do folks take the manifold off? Which means taking the carb linkage apart? Sheesh. I am beginning to regret dual carbs. This was fun 6 months ago, but I'm getting weary. It seems everytime I make what seems like progress, I'm faced with another big problem. Somebody give me some encouragement!


Yeah there is no way to get those kind of spark plug boots in the cylinder tins, also you dont need to change plugs often, I check the plugs if I have to pull the carbs for some reason but plugs will last a while. The benefit of dual carbs far outweighs any drawbacks.
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Abouna
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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2016 7:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Diving In. 1st Engine Rebuild Reply with quote

[email protected] wrote:
Get good plug wires, the boots will work better.

That washer is for the gland nut (Flywheel bolt).


Thanks John. Got a recommendation for plug wires?
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Abouna
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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2016 7:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Diving In. 1st Engine Rebuild Reply with quote

vugbug68 wrote:


Yeah there is no way to get those kind of spark plug boots in the cylinder tins, also you dont need to change plugs often, I check the plugs if I have to pull the carbs for some reason but plugs will last a while. The benefit of dual carbs far outweighs any drawbacks.


Do you have any pics of plug boots that do fit easier?
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Abouna
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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2016 6:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Diving In. 1st Engine Rebuild Reply with quote

So I've got a question about my generator backing plate and fan assembly. Lots of forum posts on the subject have broken pics, so...

In comparing my Bentley manual:

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[/img]

with the parts that came off my engine (in order):


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I've come to the conclusion that Bentley is not very clear. Bentley seems to show "7. Spacer washers" on the front side of the fan, where they do nothing more than push the 4. Special Nut away from the fan and perhaps provide less purchase on the generator's shaft threads.

In my assembly, three shims (D) were on the back side of the fan (E), between the fan and the fan hub (C), where they served their purpose of positioning the fan properly to achieve 2mm gap between the fan's back face and the front of the generator backing plate (B).

My assembly was also missing the 1. Thrust washer which in Bentley seems to serve the purpose of the shims.

Can someone clarify this?

I'm also getting a little light rubbing on the fan when I put a bit of pressure at the top of the fan shroud. I'm going to try and fiddle with the generator mount to fix this.

I've also noticed that when looking directly at the installed fan from the front of the fan shroud, that the fan is not dead center left to right in the fan shroud opening. It's biased slightly toward the left side of the car.
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2016 7:09 pm    Post subject: Re: Diving In. 1st Engine Rebuild Reply with quote

remember ,some of the tin needs to have a gap for air to escape, if the air cant get out it cant do much cooling....like...ex ports.
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2016 7:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Diving In. 1st Engine Rebuild Reply with quote

color?
7 or 8mm? 7mm fit in the stock wire clips, 8mm don't.

Abouna wrote:
Thanks John. Got a recommendation for plug wires?

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porkchop-rob
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PostPosted: Fri May 27, 2016 3:27 pm    Post subject: Re: Diving In. 1st Engine Rebuild Reply with quote

Abouna wrote:
Now I'm also thinking about how I'm ever going to change plugs 1 and 3 with the engine in the car. Do folks take the manifold off? Which means taking the carb linkage apart? Sheesh. I am beginning to regret dual carbs. This was fun 6 months ago, but I'm getting weary. It seems everytime I make what seems like progress, I'm faced with another big problem. Somebody give me some encouragement!


1st. Once you've gotten into the tuning process of the duals, you will become so proficient at pulling them, it wont be a bother. Laughing

2nd. If this is going into a beetle...you can always buy the GAB-FAB weber windows and install.
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Abouna
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2016 6:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Diving In. 1st Engine Rebuild Reply with quote

I'm about ready to mount my muffler, but I've got a little issue. No flanges on the bottom set of pipes, just flares. I'm planning on cutting them back and welding on flanges, but I thought I'd ask if anyone has a better way to do this. I bought the higher performance heater boxes to match the higher performance muffler, and also sprung for the ceramic coating, but the muffler comes with flared pipes for stock heater boxes, and if I cut and weld, there goes my ceramic coating. What is this muffler designed for? I don't think one aspect of this build has gone smoothly, but I ain't throwin' in the towel yet! Very Happy

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Abouna
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 10:15 am    Post subject: Re: Diving In. 1st Engine Rebuild Reply with quote

So we finally got this engine finished and in the car. Thanks to all who offered advice!

Overall, a huge relief having it fire up for the first time and not explode or seize up! That said, we've got a few niggles to work out.

First, our filter mount is leaking. We're going to take it apart and put some Loctite 518 on the fitting.

Second, we think we have an oil leak where the oil pump meets the case. I have pics of us putting the paper gasket in there. We're hoping it might just be weeping a little and will seal up after we put some miles on it. We don't see any oil leaks anywhere else. Pushrod tubes are dry, case parting line, full flow plugs (that we can see)

Third, we were getting some oil out the top of the dipstick. Put a little o-ring on the inside of the cup on the stick and that seems to have stopped that. Also getting a little bit of oil from behind the crank pulley.

We're running a Tri-Mill Hot Dog with heater boxes. Love the sound of the engine from outside, but inside the car the exhaust note is not the best. We're getting what I would call a loud drone, it's not pleasant. Granted, I'm not looking for a stock sound here, but having to basically yell to speak to the passengers is not what I was hoping for. I've heard the Vintage Speed muffler is louder. We'd love to keep the pea shooter look, but might have to sacrifice here. Not crazy about going to a stock muffler either for lack of performance. Any suggestions for a little quieter unit?

Here's a video of the first fire:


Link




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MConstable
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 10:57 am    Post subject: Re: Diving In. 1st Engine Rebuild Reply with quote

A-1 has some kickass headers that exit the stock apron...you can see pics @ aircooled.net
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&Dan
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 10:59 am    Post subject: Re: Diving In. 1st Engine Rebuild Reply with quote

Pretty great that a Russian Orthodox priest was present for the initial fire.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 11:19 am    Post subject: Re: Diving In. 1st Engine Rebuild Reply with quote

Get a hideaway muffler with a street header, best performance/sound you can get.

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Hide-Out-Muffler-Hideaway-Type-1-Street-Headers-p/street-hideaway.htm

and

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/VW-Sedan-Bus-Street-Header-1966-74-1300-1600cc-p/street-header-t1.htm
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 3:09 pm    Post subject: Re: Diving In. 1st Engine Rebuild Reply with quote

John, Abouna's start-up video shows he has 044 heads so that he'd need a 1.5" header instead of the 1 3/8" per your suggestion above. I'm sure you also have a 1.5 to offer, that's HB flange-mounted.

Abouna- I'll second John's recommendation about the sound of a header with hide-away; much deeper than the hotdog, plus better breathing. Your engine looks very good! Looking forward to your comments on your first test-drive (power, throttle response, etc.).
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