Diving In. 1st Engine Rebuild

[Abouna]

I've decided to make this thread mostly to keep myself motivated and hopefully get some encouragement from others. This is my first VW rebuild, or rebuild of any kind for that matter. I've rebuilt some old woodworking machines, so I've got some experience turning wrenches, fitting bearings and measuring to the thousandths of an inch. But I'm by no means experienced. I'm following the Wilson book, and the Bug Me videos.

I want to improve the performance of the engine since it's out, but I'm not yet experienced enough to know which direction to take there. I've been doing a lot of reading, here and elsewhere, but am still a bit undecided. It looks like my case (1600CC AS41, Mexico from probably 71) will need to be line bored, so the possibility of going with larger cylinders is there (not crazy about the slip ins, from what I've read so far.) I don't want a hot rod, just a solid reliable daily driver with a little more oomph now and then.

Getting the gland nut off was fun. I bent my cheater bar first, then broke my grandfather's old breaker bar at the joint. My brother reminded me to hit it with some PB blaster, which did the trick. Not sure why I forgot that! It scares me that I'm going to screw something up along the way.

A couple days ago we got the case back from the shop where they cleaned and soda blasted.

Today a machinist friend of mine is stopping by to measure the bores to see how fretted they actually are. Do I need to install and torque all the case bolts to measure? Or is it sufficient to do only the main bearing studs and the ones around the end bearings?

I also forgot to torque the heads studs before removal to see if they were going to pull. I guess I'll have to find out when I reassemble, unless there's a way to do this now? This case has case savers, so I should be okay I'm hoping.

[williamM]

Have fun- keep it covered tap the oil galleys chk the top forward cy head bolt for cracks thru to the flywheel.- just some of the stuff we never did on my first rebuild from a JC Whitney kit many years ago.
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[mark tucker]

already line bored by the bearing number(I think .020 or 1/2 mm) if it dosent need it dont do it again. get a rotating assy all balanced.stroke it some it will feal a lot better.check heads for cracks,either sell them & get some good ones or just a mild build.there are about as simple as could be .just ask when you have a quandary in your head.thats what your hear for.

[wcfvw69]

Go slow, take your time, double check EVERYTHING and measure, measure, measure.. There's is SSOO much information on youtube and this site on how to complete a VW engine rebuild correctly. The bug me video's that you own have some good information as well.

As far as making it faster, I personally wouldn't go bigger than a 1776 if you're still planning on running the stock carb, distributor and muffler. It will provide a bit more ump for you.

There is absolutely NOTHING that compares to starting and hearing the engine come to life after you rebuilt it. A great feeling.

If you get stuck or have any questions, just ask in this thread.
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[stan_tichomirov]

With these engines, things will be easier if you use the right tool made for the job, but the downside is spending money on the tool. For glandnut and axle bolts, use the Torquemeister tool.

Case looks nice. Easiest path would be to find a machinist that knows aircooleds, bring the case to him to check out and have him set up bearings for it. He may want to cut the thrust, it often needed on used cases.

What vehicle is this for? Deside if you are willing to run 94s, if you are, have the case opened up for them. If unsure, have it opened up for 90.5 cylinders --- you'll be able to run 90.5s or thik-wall 92s that slip into 90.5 case.

Check #3 cylinder lower head stud inserts in the case, in the picture it looks like there may be a crack but hopefully it's not.

Stan
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Aircooled.net
Jansen Enterprise
My 1835cc build
My budget 2276 build

[Abouna]

Thanks for the advise everyone. The engine came out of my 69.http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6...p;start=20.

It was running just fine, but decided to take it out and rebuild it just for the experience. That, and it was pretty grimy.

My machinist friend was by today and he measured up the main bearing bores for me. They were all within a thousandth (measured both side to side and top to bottom) of 2.599" So yeah, its been bored out before. The center journal on the crankshaft was also within a thou of round, and only 1 thou small than the i.d. of the bearing. I have not measured the other journals yet since the crank still has the gears and rods installed. We also measured the cylinders, and they are all right where they are supposed to be, and are very smooth.

1776 sounds great. But I think I have to machine the case to do that. I was leaning heavily towards the 1800 build detailed at Aircooled.net since it doesn't require case machining. But I'm not sure about the slip ins. Also, since my case looks to be in good shape (haven't checked for cracks yet with a torch) I'm hesitant to send it out for machining. I'm willing to spend some money on this, but maybe I should just stick to stock for this one.

I think I want to do a full flow with oil filter though, for reliability. I think that requires machining too. Anyway, off to do some more research. Next step is to check the case for cracks.

[stan_tichomirov]

If you know of a good machinist in the area, don't be afraid of machining. You'd probably want to set it up for full-flow anyway, so you'd need a machinist. The deck area cylinders sit on is sometimes funky on used cases, machine it for 90.5 and have the case decked, another plus there is you don't end up with huge deck with 69mm crank, which does happen.

If you are willing to build a 1776, use the thickwall 92s instead that slip into a 90.5 case -- more displacement, thicker cylinders. It will pull night and day vs stock 1600 and will be an easy build.

Stan
_________________
Aircooled.net
Jansen Enterprise
My 1835cc build
My budget 2276 build

[sturgeongeneral]

The best advice that I can give is to fully plan out the build and budget before you buy a single part.
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[zoltron55]

check out aircooled.net tech articles they have a great build for a 1800cc engine it is what I'm going to build very thorough

[Abouna]

I checked my case today for cracks with a propane torch. Didn't find any!

So, after some more research, I'm leaning towards a 1776 build. A machine shop here quote me $50 per cyl to machine the case for 90.5 jugs. And $250 if it needed line boring. I can ship the case to CA and have it done by an experienced shop for way less than that.

So while I continue to research and read I'm using CB Performance's 1776 Builder's Choice Engine Kit as a basic guide. Since its not a stroker engine I'm thinking about using my stock crank and flywheel. Not sure yet about the cam.

I'm also learning more about the difference between 40 IDF and 36 ICT carbs. Big price difference between the two. Then there's the whole thing of new ones are no good, and old ones are a crap shoot depending on what country they were made in. I feel like I'm damned if I do, damned if I don't. I'll eventually decide, but the process is painful, especially for a rookie. Just before I pulled this engine my 34PICT carb lost its electric choke, and getting the car to idle without killing once the cold weather arrived was not much fun. It took minutes to warm up. But I'm hoping new carbs, even without chokes, can be set up for better performance. I don't drive the car in winter, but on cool morning in the fall it can be in the 20's or 30's here and I do drive the car as long as the salt hasn't been put down.

[stan_tichomirov]

I have 34ICTs and 40IDFs (my second set of each), I also have a set of Kadrons. All of them share common potential tuning challenges, a crappy linkage can be one cause of those challenges. The dual throat carbs will obviously run superior, but will also cost a lot more in jets, venturies, etc. Dual duals are an investment, small singles are more of way to get the car running (they can work pretty well), but once they start becoming an investment you wonder why you didn't start out with dual duals. I paid $400 for my current set of Spanish 40IDFs.

$250 to open up for larger cylinders sound expensive to me.

Stan
_________________
Aircooled.net
Jansen Enterprise
My 1835cc build
My budget 2276 build

[Abouna]

Thanks Stan. I'm leaning towards the webers....

So in examine my case further I discovered this groove on the right side of the bell housing. Any ideas?

[stan_tichomirov]

I think it's from the tin rubbing, my used cases have them. It's fine.

Stan
_________________
Aircooled.net
Jansen Enterprise
My 1835cc build
My budget 2276 build

[Abouna]

That makes sense. Thanks Stan.

So I've talked to the folks at CB Performance and they've advised that's using my stock crank and flywheel will be fine. So my next task will be to remove the head studs so I can have my case machined for 90.5 cylinders and full flow oil filter.

I'd like to keep my dash stock looking, so I'm wondering if it's necessary to install a tach and oil temp gauge? I've read that 5000rpm is about the max for a stock crank, since I have no tach right now, I may have already exceeded that on many ocassions, as did the previous owner. Am I over thinking this?

[MURZI]

If you follow this build you won't be disappointed. Nice nice driver. .045 deck, heads fly cut to 50cc.

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[nsracing]

Can you tell me anywhere in ANY aircooled book that says you can soda-blast the case? Bead-blast what-have-ya...

Unless you pull all the plugs and scrub brush all the galleys ..especially the #4 bearing plug, you are asking for big trouble. Grit and shit will be in the galleys and will chew the crank and bearings. All the lifters will be scored.

You will have the toughest time getting all the grits out by hand.

Next time, a simple hot-water jet wash will do.

My recommendation for first-time engine builders is to just do a basic overhaul. This will give you first-hand insight on what to do w/ the parts you already have. Overhaul is a basic take apart and clean, inspect and put back together.

If you are successful w/ that, I am confident you will do an even better job on another engine job -this time w/ parts change over and fresh machine work.

In the first scenario, at least you did not spend money on new parts in case you screw it up.

my 2 cents.

[Abouna]

I can't tell you anywhere it says to soda blast in the two books I have. The shop that did my case specializes in race engines and they've done many VW cases, and recommended it. Since I'm a novice, I went with their advice.

I'm planning to pull the plugs and clean the galleys, and do the full flow oil filter.

I think your advice is very good, before I tore this down I was planning to simply do the basic overhaul. But now that its apart the draw to increase performance is undeniable. Honestly, I'm torn about how to proceed. I've read Wilson's book and 80% of Fisher's book, and taking it all in is becoming overwhelming.

[Floating VW]

I soda blasted my case with no problems. After blasting it, a good soaking with a diluted vinegar solution will disolve any soda particles that may have found hiding places in the nooks and crannies. I would definitely open up those oil galleries (or galleys, if you prefer) and get out the pipe cleaners, just to make sure.

Good luck, man! And don't be afraid to screw something up. What is it they say, "If you didn't screw anything up, you didn't learn anything."
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[nsracing]

You don't have to burn your hand -again - to learn an open flame is HOT. There have been many people before you w/ 'burnt' hands. You don't need to prove it again.

In the OP's case, there have been plenty of mistakes to learn from. Do you need to go the same route? Again?

V8 shops do beadblast a lot of their parts. But at the same time, they also prep the parts so not any blasting materials will go into the galleys.

It will frustrate you when you put all that work into building that motor and seize it in the first minute of running, then you will know to take better attention on its rebuild...again.

This hobby is enjoyable when you don't have unnecessary glitches. Esp, if you rely on this car to take you around.

Better no glitches. So do it right, first time out. Anything worth doing, worth doing right.

Do I hear, AMEN??