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Iguana
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stock ECU's are fine and there are plenty of them out there. I have done a lot of conversions with Subaru Engines and used the Stock ECU on them all.

It takes better care of the engine and makes it run nicer with less issue.

If you are on a budget I would buy a driving Subaru and then you can pull everything you need from it. The car will give you headers, ecu, loom radiator, fans etc etc.

When doing a conversion you can always sawp $$$$ for Time so if you have time you can save $$$$$.
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andk5591
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2015 4:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dale M. wrote:
Mount radiator in back and just use rubber....

Dale


Dale - have seem om Shoptalk that it seems like most folks dont have success with rear mounted, but thats in a bug, so maybe with the kit car would not be an issue. Would sure make things simpler......
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Tom_Kathleen
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2015 6:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is how we did the conversion on a Manxter. Tom
http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/album437
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Vito85
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2015 8:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jsturtlebuggy wrote:
Vito,
What size of Subaru engine are you plan on using?
The 2.2L engine seems to be the most common swap. If you have a timing belt problem (breaking) the valve do not get bent like in a 2.5L
As has been said the Shop Talk Forums in the Conversion Perversion section has much more information then here.

I see in the one picture you posted the radiator is in the very back. This will work and be simple as long as you can get enough air flow to it.

I am using Outfront adapter and flywheel and their EMS computer set up.
I have a JDM engine that came with the electrical harness cut off where it would go to the chassis.




well...... I think I can buy a ej25 at JDM here in texas for about 1,500 and they include the harness too,
I want to use the guages ( VDO jet cockpit style ) already on the car, and I think I will need a aftermarket ECU for that

I did not think about the return on the gas tank, not sure what to do about that,

it is getting complicated...... I would like to get a pro street or rancho transmission with a new clutch too, so I do not have any issues on the future

then...... I will need upgrade at least the front breaks to disk breaks ( for security even if I do not plan to speed )

also I would like to buy the complete car, in that way, I know the engine was running... lol

and of course part of this dream it is to get A/C on the car ( here in texas is HOT )


I'm not planning to sell the car, I just want enjoy the driving, cruising slow and enjoy the ride

please keep enter information, it help me a lot

thanks Smile
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didget69
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2015 7:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vito85 wrote:
jsturtlebuggy wrote:
Vito,
What size of Subaru engine are you plan on using?
The 2.2L engine seems to be the most common swap. If you have a timing belt problem (breaking) the valve do not get bent like in a 2.5L
As has been said the Shop Talk Forums in the Conversion Perversion section has much more information then here.

I see in the one picture you posted the radiator is in the very back. This will work and be simple as long as you can get enough air flow to it.

I am using Outfront adapter and flywheel and their EMS computer set up.
I have a JDM engine that came with the electrical harness cut off where it would go to the chassis.




well...... I think I can buy a ej25 at JDM here in texas for about 1,500 and they include the harness too,
I want to use the guages ( VDO jet cockpit style ) already on the car, and I think I will need a aftermarket ECU for that

I did not think about the return on the gas tank, not sure what to do about that,

it is getting complicated...... I would like to get a pro street or rancho transmission with a new clutch too, so I do not have any issues on the future

then...... I will need upgrade at least the front breaks to disk breaks ( for security even if I do not plan to speed )

also I would like to buy the complete car, in that way, I know the engine was running... lol

and of course part of this dream it is to get A/C on the car ( here in texas is HOT )


I'm not planning to sell the car, I just want enjoy the driving, cruising slow and enjoy the ride

please keep enter information, it help me a lot

thanks Smile


The VDO Jet Cockpit speedometer gauge should be driven by the VW left front wheel speedo cable (if it is a mechanical gauge), If gauge is electronic (doubtful), the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) can be installed at CV joint on transaxle & you can use an Electric Speedometer Pulse Generator Ring For Type 1 Beetle CV Joint. Stock Subaru ECU should have wiring pin-outs that can be used to drive tachometer. You will want a water temp gauge, oil pressure gauge, (oil temp gauge would be a luxury).

bnc
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Vito85
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 5:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I watch a couple of videos about the subaru conversion

so, I will need some help here please

on this video.....
VW Subaru Conversion Fuel Injection System DIY Plus $ Saving Tips
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoAumihmEiU
he talks about a 5/16 hose...... but the VW use 1/4 hose for the tank
hoe can you change it or adapt it ?? I'm lost about it
he talks about a ford ranger fuel pump..... is that a good choice ??
and a fuel filter ( carquest 86097 )
but ...... about the return....... can I use the neck of the fuel tank to plug in the return line ?? or do I have to make a hole on the tank ??



also, on this other video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dLYp80cCzB0
he talks about a mg migget (76--79 ) radiator........ is that a good choice ?? what is the best radiator..... I'm in texas where is HOT as hell ( 100 degrees )
he made a point to cut/trim the brackets....and mention that he add the oil pressure sensor..... ???? it is not part of the engine ? or the ECU ??


I know there are many questions, but I really would like your help

God bless

have a great weekend Smile
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Vito85
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 5:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[/quote]

The VDO Jet Cockpit speedometer gauge should be driven by the VW left front wheel speedo cable (if it is a mechanical gauge), If gauge is electronic (doubtful), the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) can be installed at CV joint on transaxle & you can use an Electric Speedometer Pulse Generator Ring For Type 1 Beetle CV Joint. Stock Subaru ECU should have wiring pin-outs that can be used to drive tachometer. You will want a water temp gauge, oil pressure gauge, (oil temp gauge would be a luxury).

bnc[/quote]

mmmhhh...... please let me ask, a aftermarket ECU ( outdoor motors ) should provide all that.... right ? I just will need to buy the guages..... is that right ?? also I think ( I do not know ) the aftermarket ECU should not require a speed sensor ..... right ???


thank you in advance for all your help
God bless
Smile
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Driftin
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 6:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes Outfront Motorsports is where I purchased my EMs Stinger and engine wiring harness from. They ask you what motor your using it on and program it for plug and play. This saved me a lot of time. It cost me a little extra over a OEM ECU but it works perfectly!

Last edited by Driftin on Sat Sep 19, 2015 7:41 am; edited 1 time in total
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Vito85
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 6:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

new question regarding the A/C system......

I think ( please correct me if I'm wrong ) that getting a complete donor car is the best way to go with the swap......
now the question is.... how do I transfer the A/C system ??


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



get a professional shop to drain the gas, and how do I get the controls.... ???
do I just take it apart one by one ?


I want to plan all before get stuck in the middle of the process.... lol
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didget69
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 7:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MG Midget radiator will be too small; I've had 4 MG Midgets/Austin Healey Sprites, and their cooling suffered with the 1275cc engine...

http://www.griffinrad.com/tips.cfm

bnc
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Iguana
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the A/C you are better off getting a universal head from Vintage Air etc as it will fit much better. That is what we use in the buggies and kit cars and have no issues.

We retain the factory compressor on the Subaru Engine

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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Vito85
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2015 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok, I'm reading and researching a lot ( too much information )
anyway....... I came across this pic ( buggy with a 6 cylinder subaru )

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I wonder how hard can it be ?? if I'm going to do the swap..... why not a 6 cylinder ???

do you guys have any info ?? any pro's or con's ???
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didget69
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2015 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

... talk to Outfront or Smallcar regarding the Subaru flat 6 swaps. I'm looking into a swap using the Subaru EZ30 series engine, but there can be issues in trying to use stand alone ECM. Frankly, the 6 opens up a whole new can of worms. If you proceed with the Subaru project, keep it simple and stick with the EJ-series of 4 cylinder engines...

Why not simply use an Audi A4 or VW Passat 1.8 turbo 4 drivetrain, or the V6 variants?

bnc
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Tom_Kathleen
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2015 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A 4 cylinder EJ25 turbo has about the same HP as that 6 cylinder and will get better gas mileage (if you can keep your foot out of it). You will have a little boost lag, but what we find is that when you are on the boost, you are going too fast! Tom
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weasel_ugs
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2015 6:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alot of extra weight using the 6cyl.
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didget69
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2015 6:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

weasel_ugs wrote:
Alot of extra weight using the 6cyl.


Roughly 75 pounds.

bnc
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only question I have to ask is why?

AC in a buggy, unless you have a full hood etc, is about as much use as tits on fish. It's a huge pile of extra work, at least one extra rad and then all the pipework....to me, its like those who buy a cabriolet and tick the AC option box....

As for engine, consider old skool Corvair power.....its the route I've gone. No standalone mgt, no miles of wiring and a simple adaptor plate and off you go....
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 10:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

GPM wrote:
The only question I have to ask is why?

AC in a buggy, unless you have a full hood etc, is about as much use as tits on fish. It's a huge pile of extra work, at least one extra rad and then all the pipework....to me, its like those who buy a cabriolet and tick the AC option box....

As for engine, consider old skool Corvair power.....its the route I've gone. No standalone mgt, no miles of wiring and a simple adaptor plate and off you go....


The Corvair is, well... ancient. Laughing Fun little engine, but power limited for it's displacement, without going to an expensive build. Reverse rotation required to mate properly to VW trans. A stock 2.5 Subaru engine can easily achieve Corvair power levels, with strain.

But - the 'vair is a fun engine, regardless.

bnc
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 10:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

GPM wrote:
The only question I have to ask is why?

AC in a buggy, unless you have a full hood etc, is about as much use as tits on fish. It's a huge pile of extra work, at least one extra rad and then all the pipework....to me, its like those who buy a cabriolet and tick the AC option box......
The OP doesn't have a buggy. It's a full-bodied kit car. Full doors with roll-up windows. I'm working on an assembling an AC setup for my VW powered version right now. And I use it as a semi-daily driver. Cool
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mark tucker wrote:
I wouldent waste $ or thyme on building a small motor. build it big so it dosent have to work hard.remember it's only as fast as your foot alows it to be unless you build a small turd then it just stinks as it squishes up through your toes when you step on it.
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GPM
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

didget69 wrote:
GPM wrote:
The only question I have to ask is why?

AC in a buggy, unless you have a full hood etc, is about as much use as tits on fish. It's a huge pile of extra work, at least one extra rad and then all the pipework....to me, its like those who buy a cabriolet and tick the AC option box....

As for engine, consider old skool Corvair power.....its the route I've gone. No standalone mgt, no miles of wiring and a simple adaptor plate and off you go....


The Corvair is, well... ancient. Laughing Fun little engine, but power limited for it's displacement, without going to an expensive build. Reverse rotation required to mate properly to VW trans. A stock 2.5 Subaru engine can easily achieve Corvair power levels, with strain.

But - the 'vair is a fun engine, regardless.

bnc


I get all of that, absolutely i do. However, it requires so little in the way of fabrication or extras to fit, its a worthwhile consideration. I run the 110hp, 160lbft torque engine. Unless you are going drag racing, its more than enough and propels a buggy to a scary speed very quickly indeed. I didnt even reverse rotation mine, just flipped the diff in the box and its held up, despite being given some serious abuse.... I don't really get the need for any more power and the added complications of a water cooled lump. Still, that's just my view.

As for the OPs vehicle, I didn't realise it as a full bodied car. That will teach me to read the whole thread. Makes more sense now. Is still a lot of work but good luck to the OP.
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