Fixing up a 67 Beetle

[VICS94HB]

lol i cant get the horn, emergecy, and turn signals to work. my reverse lights are miising but at least theres wires running to the rear fenders that are for that. and for the liscence plate light. a voltage meter is ur best friend when ur messing with wiring. and as far as your driver rear running light not working start checking for power where the wiring splits off for the rear and front left running lights. remember that the running lights work in pairs of left front and rear and right front and rear.

[BLAU GEIST]

That is helpful good to know, thank you!
I found a helpful link yesterday and printed out some of this info but have not had time to mess with the car yet....Maybe it can help you, cheers!
http://oldvolkshome.com/

[VICS94HB]

awsome thanks ima save this link and look it over tonight. it looks like it has a lot of good info. almost wonder if we can repost here to help others?

[BLAU GEIST]

No harm intended, just trying to help share with the VW community!

[BLAU GEIST]

Tried to remove the shift rod bushing and put in the new one today. Read a lot of threads leading up to this, everything went pretty textbook until reinstalling the rod with the new bushing in the bracket. That thing is STUCK and I decided to walk away until tomorrow as it was brutally hot today. No pictures but end result exactly the same as everyone else, dark orange bushing in pieces comes out, new white one goes in, grease etc.
Coupler bushings are still good and do not need replacement.
More to come....

[BLAU GEIST]

OK went out for another 90 minutes or so, this time with my lovely Wife assisting me with a flashlight and extra pair of hands....The rod was moving smooth until the E-brake assembly, using a thin wrench I was able to push down through there into the rod, enabling it to get under whatever was inhibiting it before...Slid it all the way to the coupling, hooked that all up just like it was when I took it apart, amazingly did not drop anything down into the tunnel!
Now on to the quick shift kit.
The shift knob was an aftermarket job, dark walnut looking wood with a chrome shift diagram on top...old but cool. That thing was STUCK on there. Could not get it off. Anyway I let the threads soak in PB blaster for a few days and finally got it off, which was great because the new bushing was in place. Threw the shift kit on there with a lot of grease, bolted it down and viola, very tight H pattern, feels good and I am glad I stuck with it instead of giving up. Did not drive it yet but I think it is going to work. Whew!

[BLAU GEIST]

Ok so the running boards are totally rotted out but the area where they mount is in really nice shape. I removed the old boards and am replacing them with used but clean mid 60s boards. I think the rubber mat from the old ones is salvageable so I am going to at least try and use those before I order up replacements. Amazing how the metal can just completely go to hell and the rubber looks very good after all this time....
Check out that rot

[Eric&Barb]

Water likes narrow channels to get into. Capillary action of tiny spaces will actually suck water into places like that.
On the replacement boards get rid of all the rust right down to bare metal and use a high zinc primer and good paint over that to keep the rust away for as long as possible.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=capilary+action&t=ffsb&ia=about
_________________
In Stereo, Where Available!

[BLAU GEIST]

Put in some hours today, heres what I got done :
removed pedal cluster
removed master cylinder and leaky soft break lines
cleaned out entire interior down to nothing and painted it with POR15.

I took a few pictures, you get the idea.
This stuff seems pretty good, I got the kit that came with cleaner, metal prep and I think a quart of POR15 from amazon, 40-50$ if memory serves. If you are trying to decide how much you need, I was able to get 2 heavy coats on the entire interior from the luggage tray all the way to the front firewall and still had enough for another small project left over. It is taking awhile to dry because of the somewhat humid weather today but it seems to be working as advertised. We will see how it fares down the road but it looks awesome I must say, like a new car.
Cheers

[grandpa pete]

I have read that POR-15 doesn't keep after opening the can .
I have a suggestion from my house painting days .
Put a plastic grocery bag into the partially empty can . spread it out over the top of the paint so the air inside the closed paint can doesn't dry out the top layer of the paint . then put the paint can cover on tightly .

NOTE : wrapping a wet paint roller or brush in a plastic grocery bag will keep it from drying out overnight
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63 two fold rag
66 sedan delivery Type 6

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569619&highlight=sedan+delivery

[BLAU GEIST]

Thanks gramps, I did exactly that! I am not too concerned, I had enough to do what I needed and there was a bit left over. Maybe Ill paint my replacement running boards with it or something? Either way inside of car looks great.

[BLAU GEIST]

Chipped the rest of the tar board off the back of the luggage shelf, painted that with POR 15 as well, started putting quick roof on the floors. Front floors came out fine, back right floor a little disorganized but good enough too. Ran out of roll #1 will start the rest of the car tomorrow....Have not driven it with the treated floor yet but a tap test yields a much deeper and quieter THUD than just bare metal. I figure with whatever carpet I choose it will be much more silent and well protected. Thats all for now!

[polarisboy]

Im in the process of removing all the tar crap out of my 67 now to POR-15 it also...that stuff is in there pretty good...all mine is original so its had 48 years to bake on and get hard...and boy has it...but thats ok, pans are decent, no rust through just some minor surface, even under the battery,,,,guess I cant complain for a 67

[BLAU GEIST]

That stuff is hard to get out. I found a hammer and chisel works well, just find your technique and it will come. I dug the chisel in a bit and then flipped it upside down so the flat edge was scraping all the tar off, worked well. It will not hurt if you leave the tar on the tunnel but the floor tar traps moisture and creates rust.
Anyway here are some pics of my quick roof installation.
I will note that it technically was not quickroof, but it was at home depot next to the other quick roof products (the product everyone uses was not there, this must be a generic version) but it cost the same and seems to be the same thing.
Anyway I just tried to lay it out like everyone does, sorry if this is boring. Front floors came out good, rear floor is half done and a bit sketchy but it will work.

[BLAU GEIST]

Well it has been a few months but the blue 67 is close to road worthy!
Johns Air Cooled Auto in central Mass. has been very helpful so far and here is where the car is at right now....

Rusty old beam is toast, entire front end being replaced. A fresh beam from a 74 donor sedan is added, as well as some new tie rods and drop spindles!
All brake parts came from WW. Also sporting a brand new gas tank and lines, Good stuff!!!

[BLAU GEIST]

Forgot to mention I am picking up some black BRMs and large back, small front tires to get the cal-look ball rolling...keeps me up at night!

[67rustavenger]

That new front beam looks real nice. You can slide that speedo cable in after you have the drum and bearings installed and adjusted. The drop spindles are going to look good once you get it back on the ground. I found that while driving into the wind, my car was getting blown all over the road. I installed caster shims and the stability improved on the highway. The trade off was that on tight twisty roads the steering is a little, Umm not as comfortable. But I'll live with it. I hate unpredictable lane changes in high winds.
BRM's? Dammit, I wanted to put those on my 67. Just ran out of $$$ so maybe some year.
I like what you have done on the floor pans. Keep up the great work and you'll have a nice driver.
Have a great weekend
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[BLAU GEIST]

Thanks Rusty! I love your car and hope mine can one day be as nice...
The BRMS are a local craigslist score, tires included, ready to bolt onto the car, the seller is holding them for me until the time is right...cannot wait to post pics!!!

New gas tank installed

Another shot of the brakes

[67rustavenger]

My car is a twenty footer all day long. But that's the way I like it. I use it as a daily driver rain or shine. I'm not afraid to get it wet. It's what VW's were designed for. Driving!
What shocks are you planning on the front and rear? I have KYB GR-2's and they are a bit stiff. You might benefit from stock oil filled ones. But the choice is yours. I have the same 3/4" sway bar up front. I'm not completely sold on it yet.
Anyway have a great weekend and get to work. Summer only lasts a few months.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[BLAU GEIST]

I am not sure what shocks are going in but I trust my mechanic John Allmond will pick something appropriate....His shop in central Massachusetts services a lot of the VW community here in New England, and he does awesome work.
Here is his Facebook page - https://www.facebook.com/Johns-Air-Cooled-115918855177119/?fref=ts