New (to me) 1965 1500 Variant S(!)

[Tram]

[sjbartnik]

So I did the tie rod end today. Wound up buying from bughaus, they are shipping the OCAP tie rod end. OCAP is an Italian firm which is supposedly a VW OEM. Bughaus notes that if they are out of OCAP they will ship either Meyle or Nakata which they describe as of equal quality to OCAP.

Here's the tie rod end as received (the tie rod end was shipped with a protective plastic cover over the threads as well as one over the boot, they have been removed for the photo):

Here's the offending tie rod end (after I had already bent up the lock plate and unscrewed the lock nut):

Couldn't find any manufacturer markings on it.

Before uninstalling it, I took a measurement from a specific location on the tie rod (the nut for the inner tie rod end) to the center point of of the outer tie rod end. I also noted the distance to the outer edge of the steering knuckle while I was measuring. I also took the time to count the number of turns to unscrew the old one so I'd at least have a baseline for when to stop screwing the new one in. This worked out really well.

Removed the tie rod end from the steering knuckle using a tie rod tool lent by D/A/N and neena, thanks guys! Made it a snap, it popped right out:

Got the new one installed with no trouble and got my measurements exact so the toe should not be affected. When ordering the parts I didn't realize there was a lock plate so I didn't have a new one. I made do by re-purposing a front wheel bearing nut lock plate and just cut the center bit out of it. Worked out pretty good. For posterity's sake (and future searches) the black nut on the tie rod is 24mm and the lock nut is 22mm.

Took it for a spin afterwards and WOW!! The steering is rock solid and precise. It must have been clunking for a while and shame on me for not catching it. Between the new tie rod end and the steering box being adjusted properly this thing drives sweet! Tracks nice and straight, not fidgety at high speed and over bumps, and the steering wheel is horizontal when going straight. I think now I have an idea about just how nice these cars would have steered when they were new.

In other news, the brake light switch saga continues! The NOS Ate switch started dying today - usual symptoms - intermittent activation, delayed activation, high pressure required for activation. I decided to replace it before it totally crapped out. Unwilling to subject my other NOS Ate switch to certain death, this time I decided to throw in the Harley-Davidson switch that I bought a while ago. HD used brake light pressure switches and DOT5 brake fluid for a time and it turns out the HD switches will fit the VW master cylinder. So this will be an experiment.

The HD switch threads into the master cylinder just fine, except that the threads are a bit longer than the Ate or FTE switches. So I put some Teflon thread-sealing tape on there just in case. So far it doesn't seem to be leaking or seeping but I'll keep an eye on it. Here's the HD switch installed:

As for operation, it works great. Activates quickly and with very little pressure. I hope it stands up to DOT5.
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1965 Volkswagen 1500 Variant S
2000 Kawasaki W650

[ataraxia]

The OE one was probably a Lemforder - their logo is on the top of the dome under what looks like paint on yours.

OCAPs are good parts.

You probably won't find the lock plates for the tie rod nut - no one seems to stock them or make them. Good alternate using the lock plate for the spindle nuts!

[sjbartnik]

Just a quick note on the Harley-Davidson brake light switch after doing some driving - I really like it for activation time! It takes barely any pressure on the pedal to switch the brake lights on. It's almost like having a pedal position-activated switch in that respect. I just hope the DOT5 doesn't eat it in a month.
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1965 Volkswagen 1500 Variant S
2000 Kawasaki W650

[sjbartnik]

Hey I'd love to pick the experts' brains on this issue:

I had this issue last summer and now that the weather is warming up again it seems to be coming back after having been absent all winter. What's happening is I'm sometimes getting a stumble at idle - it will be idling smoothly and then the idle will just suddenly dip down what feels like 100-150 rpm and then recover. It has never stalled doing this yet but it sometimes feels like it might. This only happens when:

1) the outside temperature is warm, like 70s and up
2) the engine is fully warmed up/hot
3) the car has been sitting in a lot of traffic or idling a lot.

I've been through the ignition system and everything is in spec, timing is spot on at 10 deg. BTDC, point gap is .016" and points look good and it runs smoothly otherwise.

One thing that is weird is that even though my points gap is spot on .016", when I hook up my digital dwell meter it shows dwell at ~37 degrees which of course is low. But to get dwell to 47-50 degrees I'd have to close the point gap up to much less than .016". So what's up with that? Is my meter just crap? The car is 6v but I don't think that should matter as this meter is self-powered.

Anyway, I was thinking maybe the hot idle stumble is possibly the result of a rich idle mixture...on the theory that generally when the thing runs great when cold but not when hot, things are too rich. The exhaust at idle certainly smells a bit rich so I'll play with re-tuning the carbs a bit and see what happens but I just wanted to put it out there to see if the experts have run into this kind of thing before and might be able to put me on the right path.
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1965 Volkswagen 1500 Variant S
2000 Kawasaki W650

[Erik G]

Is it persistent? Do you use different gas stations?
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Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

[Tram]

Vapor lock?
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Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.

[ataraxia]

I have a similar situation with my 64 - I'm in the process of getting everything on the linkage/carb adjustment side back to spec 100%, starting with the short linkages on the carbs and then adjusting the left side linkage to spec. The right side gets adjusted in reaction to the left side being set correctly.

I wish I could find a linkage adjustment tool set - it would make this 100% easier.

I have also found that the car responds much better to premium fuel vs. mid grade or 87.

Which distributor are you using?

[sjbartnik]

[sjbartnik]

[sjbartnik]

[ibjack]

[ataraxia]

[D/A/N]

[ataraxia]

[Tram]

[ataraxia]

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[ataraxia]

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