My project Doom Buggy

[slalombuggy]

Great work. Nothing wrong with leaving he body for a while before painting. Repairs always shrink back for a while after the initial repair is done leaving pock marks on the body. I like to leave the body sit for a few months before final paint and let it cure. Driving around and letting it bake in the sun for a summer is the perfect opportunity to let your repairs cure and settle.

brad

[cdnltded]

went out last night again and did some final welding on the pans, figured i might as well do that before the body goes back on



no pictures sorry all

[cdnltded]

got most of my welding all completed

[cdnltded]

But i do have a question to all the past builders and current builders

i have welded the pans which are custom as you can see, on the top all the way around.

do i need to flip the frame over and weld in the pans from the bottom side as well???

thanks in advance

[joescoolcustoms]

[cdnltded]

[cdnltded]

ok so another question for the masters on here

i have this tar type stuff on the tunnel of my frame. how do you get that crap off?

[Q-Dog]

That stuff flakes off real easy when it is cold. I used a long handle gasket scraper to get the big parts, then a wire wheel to get the remnants. Heat will just make it a sticky mess.
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Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

[joescoolcustoms]

[cdnltded]

Ok so I need more help, well more like clarification

i want to soften/lower the front of my buggy, like many others i am cheap, i want to just cut a couple of leafs. so my question is do i just cut 1 leaf on either side of the pack. the small leaf. or should i remove a wide leaf from another pack and cut it and put that one in. this is what my pack looks like. i do have 2 extra sets of packs so i can do multiple things

Also do i remove the bump stop, the red thing,. and if so should i cut off the ear where it goes?

[Q-Dog]

It looks like the arm has been hitting or probably riding on the top of the stops. This should diminish when you soften the front end. The front should drop some when you remove some spring, so need need to cut off the stops.
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Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

[cdnltded]

[cdnltded]

well i took the plunge to soften/lower the front of my buggy. took a set of leafs from another front end and cut the small leafs out. then took another set and took out 2 wide leafs and cut each into 6 pieces, wound up about 6 inches each.
then welded the newly cut 6 in pieces to the other spring pack, making sure i clamped it in both directions to try to keep as much squarness i could. must have worked cause after i cleaned the weld up everythng slipped back together with no additional grinding

heres some pics

[cdnltded]

So got another question

the shifter that was in my pan seemed to be a little weak, when i say weak i mean small felt like i could bend it if i hit the shift wrong.
one of my parts cars has this shifter in it and i took it out and installed it into my pan.
here is the question.
is this shifter a performance shifter or just a better one?

[BIGMIKEY]

Looks like a type III shifter with a quick shift kit. Should work good if you got all the pieces in the right place.

Mike T
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BIGMIKEY

Deserter Series 1 project.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=787047&highlight=

1973 Beetle Driver, Marina Blue.

[cdnltded]

[Glasser]

Yes reverse lock out wont work right if you have that thin piece in the wrong way.
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Brent
My build up http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=265364&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Project#2. Neighbors build up. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=327008

[BIGMIKEY]

I was actually addressing the quick shift kit parts. See that aluminum diamond shaped spacer? That is not part of the stock type III shifter. it is an aftermarket kit to reduce the throw of the shifter. Works well, I have used them for decades. There are 2 parts to that kit. the aluminum diamond spacer and a small half ball shaped thing with a hole in it that slides over the shifter shaft. It's hidden in your pictures. Both work to raise the fulcrum point and you get a nice sporty short throw shifter experience...

And as Glasser pointed out that thin plate's position is very important. Out of 4 possible choices only one is correct.

Mike T
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BIGMIKEY

Deserter Series 1 project.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=787047&highlight=

1973 Beetle Driver, Marina Blue.

[EVfun]

You welded on the front leaf springs where they flex? I've cut down front torsion bars before but I made the filler pieces just slightly longer than the square retention blocks on each trailing arm and center (you can see the held length in the wear.) I then tacked the cut pieces onto the leaf below only in the area where the bars don't twist under load. I did taper the cut ends like you did, that makes installing them much easier.
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[cdnltded]