1969 Electric Karmann Ghia - Cupcake

[Oxx12]

I am using the stock spindles - I believe, previous owner did the disc brake conversion. They are Airkewld disc brakes: http://www.airkewld.com/Stage-2-69-75-VW-Beetle-Ghia-Front-Disc-Brake-Kit-p/4240.htm

They are very nice brakes, I think I can take the outer spacer off? With the right wheels it wont hit the rim.

Whats a good source for new Ghia disc brakes?

-Spencer

[scotty timmerman]

if your using the original disk brake spindles that came on your car originally then this is the style disk brake that would have been on it http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-4124
_________________
71 ghia coupe: Build thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=511738&highlight=
71 type 3 fastback auto
71 type 3 fastback manual
73 super beetle
57 oval: build thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8616563#8616563
63 beetle reassembly: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7458619#7458619
2332cc engine build: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8608429&highlight=#8608429
84 vanagon westfalia wolfsburg edition

[Airkewld]

[Airkewld]

[Oxx12]

Hi Airkewld,
The Ride was horrible all around, I believe that it has a lot to do with who previously installed the Air System. But also, the way that the front control arms were connected to the Airkewld front beam was very poor... it was essentially just a piece of all thread with nuts on the end.
This made it rattle like hell, and the roads where I live (out in the country) are always in horrible shape, so I was rattling my teeth out. The front wheel would rub unless I had the car all the way up, and the Drivers side always needed 20Psi more then passenger side... and this problem has carried into the original suspension, which makes me suspect the frame or body is bent. The drivers side also leaked, so it would sit overnight and be completely deflated by morning.
SO, I think the previous owner did not know what he was doing when he installed it. That being said, even if the system had been working perfectly, as it was intended to, it is just not something that will work out where I live, pot-holes and bumpy roads do not mix well with air suspension.
Do you know if the Airkewld system I have has a widened spacer on it? It was a narrowed beam, and I put in the original beam, but left the spindles and disc brakes. Are those disc brakes spaced out compared to what a stock one would be? my wheels rub if I try to turn much. Do you know if that Airkewld kit comes with dropped spindles or standard spindles?
I just want my car back to stock, and am trying to buy original disc brakes and spindles.

Thanks for any advice

-Spencer

[Airkewld]

[john morris]

How did you determine the car is crooked on the pan? What do your door gaps look like?

There are several things that can cause the car to sag to one side. One is a bent control arm in the rear suspension. Another is worn rear torsion bars, the torsion bars can be adjusted to compensate for sag but unless you have adjustable torsion arms (aftermarket) it is all trial and error. Another thing that can cause the car to sag to one side is worn body bushings. The bushing go between the car body and front beam and there are more on the rear suspension. If the bushings are worn or missing, it can cause body sag and poor door gaps.


Good Luck!

[Oxx12]

UPDATE:

I have finally fixed the suspension. I got all new spindles (the old ones were drop spindles) and a new front beam, as well as new wheel bearings, new disc brakes, new calipers, new upper and lower ball joints. This immediately fixed the steering and the ride. I am so glad its back to stock. It is still slightly off kilter, but it should be repairable using the rear torsion rods.

I have been working to upgrade the motor. I got a HPEVS AC-50 from ThunderStruck Motors. I have installed it, and am working on putting in new batteries. I will post pictures to update as soon as I have time.

[SirNickity]

Hey, how do you like the Thunderstruck charger? I just ordered an AC-50 kit and the TSM2500 charger to go with. I haven't seen much talk out there about the chargers, but.. it's affordable, compact, CAN controlled, and looks well built. So I decided to give it a shot. How's it working out for you?

Also, what prompted you to trade out the Warp for an AC? (Just curious.)
_________________
1970 KG Coupe
1974 KG Convertible (EV conversion underway)

[Oxx12]

@ SirNickity,
I love these chargers! I used them for awhile before I bought the AC kit. I was actually able to mount a J1772 port inside of the fuel door, and this makes it very slick.
Since my new setup is lower voltage, I will be using a dual 72V TSM2500's (100V max) from Thunderstruck Motors. That will allow for up to 60amps charging. Which means less around 1.3 hours for full charge.
You have to have the EVCC as well, which lets you charge at all the standard charging stations.

Sorry for the late reply.

[Oxx12]

Okay, time for another update. The pictures and previous post basically do all the explaining. I am in the process of installing new batteries and a new BMS. I already installed the new controller and new AC induction motor.

Bracket mount for the battery pack in the front. (24 80ah high voltage 4.2V/cell)

Rubber mounted the controller for vibration, will also likely put an electric fan to keep it cool

That Crimp!!

Rear mount behind the backseat... On Ball bearing slides for easy access.

[Oxx12]

UPDATE:
I have finally finished (mostly) the project. I finished installing the battery management system, the new batteries, and the AC system. I also finished re-doing the interior of the car. Although un-original, the new Chevy Volt seats are incredibly comfortable, and add a touch of modernness to the car.
New carpets, and I also re-finished the Steering wheel. The car runs and drives great!
I also had to install new wheel bearings and new CV Shafts. LED headlights for efficiency, and I modified some LED lights for the taillights as well.

Floor Insulation

[cmdrfire]

I've got to say that this is an absolutely great project.
I'm a EEE myself and I work in the EV business... my speciality is in Li battery systems for H/EV. Recently my thoughts (foolishly) have turned to buying a second Karmann Ghia (don't tell the wife) after my '66 resto is completed and converting it to electric drive.

The J1772 socket where the fuel filler is is a nice touch for sure, I was thinking along the same lines.

What batteries are you using? Be careful with anything but LFP, unless you are experienced I would use nothing but. Which BMS are you going with? Are you managing each cell? What's your line voltage? Precharge?

What size e-machine do you use? I'm guessing 50kW PMSAC from the model name AC-50? 50kW in a Karmann must fly! I can't tell from the picture, have you retained your gearbox and are driving into that? Or just the diff?

Sorry for all the questions, just really excited to see a project like this

[Oxx12]

Hi cmdrfire,
I too work in the EV business (looking to get more into mechanical design once I get my degree).
I'd love to learn more about Lithium batteries. My specialty is charging systems.
LFP? You mean LiFePo4? I am using lithium polymer cells (3.7V Nominal). Each pack is 24 Cells, and I am running two packs in parallel, around 88V nominal. They were very expensive when they were new and came from a 1-of postal van project that went under. I was able to get them very very cheaply. 15Kwh total, 80Ah cells.
I am using a prototype BMS from ThunderStruck Motors (can you guess where I work?). This BMS is honestly way better than anything currently on the market. I can view all the cells with my laptop, as well as standard deviation and other cool stats. It will do about 300mA shunting on up to 1/4 of the cells at a time. Its nice to have a single wire to each cell (similar to an Orion). Orion BMS is very expensive, but also has a very complicated interface. The Curtis Motor controller has its own pre-charge circuit, so all I have to do is provide pack power to Pin 1, and it will pre-charge and then activate the contactor.
YES! The J1772 port is one of my favorite parts about the whole car, its nice to be able to charge almost anywhere.
I use the HPEVS AC-50. Yes, I took the car 85mph on the freeway the other day and got scared although I could have gone faster.
The AC-50 is connected to the Transmission with a clutch and everything. I considered removing the gearbox, but after some thought, not only was it easier to keep it, its more efficient (that mechanical advantage!!).
Happy to answer them, I'm glad there is interest.

[cmdrfire]

[John Moxon]

[cmdrfire]

[John Moxon]

[Oxx12]

Hi Cmdrfire,
They are prismatic cells (pouch cells). They are rated at 6.25C continuous (500A) and 10C peak (800A). They were made by Dow Kokam. Model # SLPB 80460330H if you want to look up the specs sheet.

They came in gorgeous aluminum cases, with liquid cooling ports. Since I am running two 24 cell packs in parallel, I am not worried about thermal stuff because at most, my controller pulls 600 amps, which as you know translates to 300 amps from each pack - well below the C rating.

Very nice! A good BMS makes me happy. Damn, a millivolt? Thats pretty precise. Yes, I just go by the voltage of the pack, its surprisingly linear actually.

Cheers,
-Spencer

[bluedot]

I'm all ears.