~ Raceace24's 1970 Beetle project ~

Bashr52 · Posted: Fri May 15, 2015 5:04 am Post subject:

Thats good to hear, you should have a solid 75-80 horse by the time you are done. A merged header and some dual barrel carbs would get you a couple more ponies. Any idea on what heads you are planning on? I'd rethink the crank and go with a counterweighted piece since that will be your limiting factor (5500 RPM).

Who did you end up getting to put it together?

Raceace24 · Posted: Fri May 15, 2015 7:21 am Post subject:

Bashr52 · Posted: Fri May 15, 2015 11:19 am Post subject:

I would suggest a rev limiting rotor. That 110 cam is not a real high RPM screamer, but will still let you spin it up if you really want it too.

Check out this deal:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1788492

Raceace24 · Posted: Fri May 15, 2015 11:53 am Post subject:

Bashr52 · Posted: Fri May 15, 2015 11:54 am Post subject:

Thats cool. Set it about 53-5500 and let it rip. That crank for $100 is a great deal, DPR does good work.

Raceace24 · Posted: Sat May 16, 2015 8:44 am Post subject:

Good news !
My engine guy found a forged .010"/.010" counter-weighted 8 doweled crank for me for a reasonable price !
_________________
~ No matter where you go......there you are ~

Michael E ~ Raceace24

Bob Brugge · Posted: Fri May 22, 2015 3:24 pm Post subject:

Sweet thread! I have some questions if you don't mind...
I saw you used industrial paint on the suspension... even tho you put four coats on, how well is it going to stand up to all the little crud that tears paint and glass up? Things like rocks and roadway debris.
I have a 70 beetle and would love to paint up the suspension.

Will your slots work with my drums? They are 4x130mm...If they would how much you want for them? I love that look and then I could turn my chromies into winter tires Very Happy

Last, I am curious how much you have into this thing minus the motor? I am on the fence when it comes to the brake / rotor upgrade. I could probably do all of the work my self, and it would certainly stop better, but the hassle and headache factor are holding me back.

I am serious about the rims tho.

Raceace24 · Posted: Sun May 24, 2015 7:30 pm Post subject:

Raceace24 · Posted: Mon May 25, 2015 8:00 am Post subject:

Bob Brugge · Posted: Mon May 25, 2015 8:35 am Post subject:

Sorry bro, those rims aren't worth $400.00. At least not to me.
I had two sets of those same rims, only 5 lug and for old ford. I couldn't give those away:(

Raceace24 · Posted: Mon May 25, 2015 2:02 pm Post subject:

Raceace24 · Posted: Sat May 30, 2015 8:19 pm Post subject:

Got time to clean up the original headliner in my Bug this weekend:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I heard that Simple Green and Magic Erasers worked pretty well, so I gave it a shot:

I'm pretty please with the initial results !
I plan on doing this at least one more time because I think I can get it a little bit cleaner, but even if this is as good as it gets, it's pretty nice right now ! Cool

_________________
~ No matter where you go......there you are ~

Michael E ~ Raceace24

houseofboyd · Posted: Sat May 30, 2015 8:21 pm Post subject:

Looks great, those pads and some elbow grease work wonders....nice job!
_________________
Our 1968 Zenith Blue Beetle: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=619501

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Our Web Site: http://www.kentuckyhotwheels.com

1968 VW Beetle
2012 Turbo VW Beetle

Epilog79 · Posted: Sat May 30, 2015 10:27 pm Post subject: Simple green and magic eraser

That cleaner combo looks like did the trick. I've been looking for something better than the typical vinyl cleaner for my convertible headliner.
Thanks for the tip. Good luck on the rest of your project.

Raceace24 · Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2015 7:37 pm Post subject:

Applied sound/ heat insulation in the engine bay today.
I originally wanted to go with something like Dynamat, but considering the incredibly inflated cost of that stuff, I went out and found a reasonable cost alternative:
It's called Quick Roof aluminum roof repair tape. It is basically the same thing as Dyanamat and it only costs a fraction of the price! I bought an 8" X 20' roll for $13.00 at Home Depot!
Also used aluminum heat duct tape to seal the seams:

It went on like a dream and really goes far !
I only used half a roll to do the entire engine bay!
I plan on doing the same to the inside of the firewall, under the rear seat, inside the door skins and quarters and the whole front end under the dash !
Should quiet-up things nicely ! Cool

_________________
~ No matter where you go......there you are ~

Michael E ~ Raceace24

Raceace24 · Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 7:14 pm Post subject:

Decided to get the fuel tank back in today. I had previously removed it (about a YEAR ago, lol..), cleaned the old fuel out, removed some surface rust from the underneath and had primered the underneath, so it was time to topcoat the bottom with this:

I have used this on past restorations and the stuff holds up really well on suspension components and chassis pieces, so I figured it would be a good way to seal the bottom of the tank:

I plan on not doing much to the top of the fuel tank as it's relatively clean and I rather have the original paint and 45 year old patina on it anyway !
I cleaned up the fully functional master cylinder and decided to clamp all of the flex hoses from the brake fluid reservoir to the M/C, because I never really thought much of VW going without clamps in the first place:

And I figured while I was installing the fuel tank, I might as well replace the original fuel line with some new hose and a metal fuel filter:

I noticed that with the filter and line hooked up, the fuel filter housing sat right up against the bottom of the tank and to avoid the inevitable rattling down the road, I fitted a piece of rubber around the filter and wire tied it tight:

Tank looks good back at home ! Razz

Please note that the trunk area is not completely finished and I plan on cleaning it up and carpeting it at some point, but the engine is going together as we speak and I am getting it ready to go back in as soon as is humanly possible!
Can't wait to get it back onto the pavement !!! Cool

_________________
~ No matter where you go......there you are ~

Michael E ~ Raceace24

Raceace24 · Posted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 7:15 pm Post subject:

I have a little bit of an update on the engine.
I decided to take the jump and go a lot more aggressively with the engine build.
Going with high-compression pistons, a mid-range racing grind camshaft, ratio rockers, new dual spring, big stainless valved, port ground heads, a fully balanced rotating assembly, a port matched, full-flowed oil system with braided stainless hoses, AN flowed fittings and custom fitted/ machined oil pump, "H" beamed rods, and a powdercoated set of 36HP fan shroud and tins.
Also going with a CB Performance oil sump to help oil get to the vital pieces when I am racing the car.
This should be one very healthy, good looking and VERY STRONG 1776 engine now ! Very Happy

_________________
~ No matter where you go......there you are ~

Michael E ~ Raceace24

Bashr52 · Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 4:06 am Post subject:

Raceace24 · Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 7:23 am Post subject:

The pistons are going to be forged, hypereutectic AA 90.5s, the static compression should be around 9:1, the dynamic compression is still indeterminable yet (gotta see what we end up with after we get the cam in and set the deck height), the heads are new AutoLineas' with 35.5MM stainless exhaust valves and 40MM stainless intake valves, ported with dual valve springs, the cam is going to be a custom Steve Long racing grind that should be around a 110, but is going to have a bit more of an advanced grind than an old school 110 cam and keep in mind the 1:25 ratio rockers are being used as well.
I'm still going with the ICTs for now, but that may change after I shake the car down at my local track. Might end up with some 40 Kads instead.
My engine builder suggests I run the ICTs until the engine breaks in and if I want a little more oomph, we can always go with the 40s and a merged header system in the future.
_________________
~ No matter where you go......there you are ~

Michael E ~ Raceace24

Bashr52 · Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 1:48 pm Post subject:

Keep the deck tight, as close to .04 as possible. Around 8.5:1 is what I usually shoot for with a 110 cam. Watch your lift if that cam wasn't designed for 1.25 rockers, you may run into coil bind issues.

Should be a good runner. If the cam is close to a 110 it will likely run out of steam by 5500, although the slightly larger intake size should let it spin higher. A merged header and a set of dual barrel carbs should help it breath as well.


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~ Raceace24's 1970 Beetle project ~
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