Second Bus and First Engine Drop. Need guidance!

[busdaddy]

The accel pump stream passes through a gasket on it's way to the top cover, any chance the issues are related?

So the right carb won't keep it running by itself...... if the flow meter says it's moving air the next missing component is fuel, either too much or too little. After the choke is warmed up and staying open try manually pushing the butterfly closed without moving the throttle, stop and back off a little when the engine starts to slow (if it does), now hold the choke plate in that spot and pull the left solenoid wire, still dies?, or tries to hang on?
If there's no difference try screwing the RH idle mix screw all the way in until it bottoms gently and pull the left wire, same deal, die or run?
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[Pinetops]

I'm super impressed with your work, very nice! Are you still working on your other bus?

One thing I noticed though, you need to add a hole on each corner bottom. They are for accessing the frame rails, for rustproofing.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=578684&highlight=holes+rear
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"A rolling bus gathers no rust."

[whatdoesthisbuttondo?]

It only looks good from a distance It takes me so long to do any of it and improvement is so slow that I am super impressed with guys who have acquired the skill and speed to do it for a living. Thank you for pointing the lack of access holes out, I will drill them in next year and likely waxoyl the inside of the frame rails. I shot a liberal amount of zinc primer into them for now. Unfortunately I ran out of time and dry weather with the body work this year. The other bus has been put on the back burner... I just don't have time for both. It has however been VERY useful for parts that I didn't think I would need!

Busdaddy, as usual thanks, I owe you a beer if you are ever on this side of the pond.

Right carb is the one oozing gas (left does a little too though), left is not pumping. Engine dies when i pull the right cutoff (I thought that with right pulled, the engine is running on the left carb, from what I gathered in Colin's procedure?). Thats a good thought about gasket, I will check all passages are free and stream is not blocked by a new, inaccurate gasket shape or something.

Noticed that I had not set the butterfly to the correct gap, oops. Set gap to 0.6mm using the two nuts on the choke linkage. now theres a cluster of three tiny holes together, and one individual hole, downstream of the plate.

Will try your suggestion when I get them back on. and off. and on. etc.
_________________
Orange 1973 Campervan. Rebuilt 1700cc with dual Solex carbs. Pertronix electronic points on stock distributor. Engine rebuild in progress (fall 2023).

[whatdoesthisbuttondo?]

Hmm, here's photos of when I first opened up the left carb last year. This looks like newer gasket, the carbs must have been rebuilt at least once. I don't see it blocking anyt fuel passages but I will make sure the float bowl is not restricted by gasket, it looks close.

I remember on initial engine cranking we had trouble getting the left to squirt, but it eventually worked, at the time I thought we just had to purge some air.

Are there any valve balls or anything that could have fallen out somewhere? I don't see anything in the Bentley or the rebuild kit blowup view.
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Orange 1973 Campervan. Rebuilt 1700cc with dual Solex carbs. Pertronix electronic points on stock distributor. Engine rebuild in progress (fall 2023).

[Tcash]

The check ball sits under the brass fitting. You should be able to hear it when you shake the carb. If not carefully pull the accel cover and diaphragm and spray carb cleaner down the brass fitting to loosen up the check ball. Inspect the diaphragm for any holes.

Put some gas in the bowl and adjust your accel pump delivery.

Good luck
Tcash

[busdaddy]

The ball is trapped under a brass plug, it's in the bowl and often stuck if the carb had funky white stuff in it, the plug is visible in the upper left corner of the bowl in the pic below, usually it's threaded so you can put a long machine screw in and pull it like a nail.

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[Tcash]

This one BD?

Thanks
Tcash

[busdaddy]

I think so, difficult to confirm without a look from another angle, it's the only blind bottom brass thing in the float bowl below the gas level.
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Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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[whatdoesthisbuttondo?]

I see the threaded one you mean, it's forward, right, hidden by the float in those pictures... (edit: or would be if I was talking about the left carb...)

So there is a valve check ball under this fitting and another ball the first one Tcash pointed out?

There is definitely something rattling around in there, I don't know if its 1 or 2 though... There is also definitely white corrosion that has started since cleaning them. I will try with some vinegar and steel wool, maybe soak in vinegar and blow out if the passages are gummed up. there is definitely white corrosion between the pump and the brass fitting on the left... Lame. I cleaned by soaking in pine sol, then used a bottle of carb cleaner and blew them out, too bad about the corrosion, its leaving pitting.
_________________
Orange 1973 Campervan. Rebuilt 1700cc with dual Solex carbs. Pertronix electronic points on stock distributor. Engine rebuild in progress (fall 2023).

[Tcash]

So there is a valve check ball under this fitting and another ball the first one Tcash pointed out?
There should only be one check ball. It allows fuel to go into the accelerator pump but not return to the float bowl.
Tcash

It is easiest to test the pump and set the flow rate on the bench.

[whatdoesthisbuttondo?]

Alrighty, carb success! There were two check balls, the one under the threaded brass fitting in the bowl was sticking. Pulled the brass fitting using a tail-light screw, cleaned the white corrosion out of it.

Reset the timing, redid the whole amskeptic cual carb synching procedure (reading it takes longer than doing it...), and eventually got it to run at all points of the procedure, including with each cutoff unplugged.

Went for a test drive and ran out of gas. Too much idling I guess. Walked home pretty happy.

Now to figure out the deep creak when the nose dives when braking. And cross fingers that the sounds I hear in the engine is all just normal break in
_________________
Orange 1973 Campervan. Rebuilt 1700cc with dual Solex carbs. Pertronix electronic points on stock distributor. Engine rebuild in progress (fall 2023).

[busdaddy]

[whatdoesthisbuttondo?]

Driven to work and back a couple times, feels good!

No carnage in oil! bit of a sheen from cylinder/ring break in and some other gunk its cleaning out.

Bit of a shake at one spot at low rpm, smooths out at higher.

Accelerates really nice, I can keep up with traffic when pulling away from a stop, heh heh.

Going to keep doing valve adjustments and play with the carbs a bit, its not running perfectly smoothly yet. Bought new set of bosch plug wires and that helped a lot!

Thermostat is not closing fully, the flaps are sticking somehow when it cools down... Have to look into that.

plug diagnosis?

_________________
Orange 1973 Campervan. Rebuilt 1700cc with dual Solex carbs. Pertronix electronic points on stock distributor. Engine rebuild in progress (fall 2023).

[whatdoesthisbuttondo?]

Back down the rabbit hole.

Had some knocking that was getting much worse, very similar to this:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=630713&start=20

So the engine came back out yesterday and in the process of stripping it down. Second time waaaay faster, took two of us about 3 hours to get the engine out, would have been faster if we hadn't hung up on the bolt above the starter, this was the last to come out and the engine had shifted. ended up splitting the trans from the engine to finally get it out.

I will have better peace of mind once I split the case and I will also be able to do a better job putting it back together the second time.

Photos coming soon!
_________________
Orange 1973 Campervan. Rebuilt 1700cc with dual Solex carbs. Pertronix electronic points on stock distributor. Engine rebuild in progress (fall 2023).

[aeromech]

Before you split the case pull of the fan shroud and pull the pump. Look inside. You might find the problem.
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[whatdoesthisbuttondo?]

Pulled the oil pump and no evidence of anything wrong here, cam bolts and back of pump are fine.

#1 rod feels very loose! #3 also quite loose, #2 and #4 are similar and very little play.

That is, loose front to back when I hold just below wrist pin.

Next step split the case?
_________________
Orange 1973 Campervan. Rebuilt 1700cc with dual Solex carbs. Pertronix electronic points on stock distributor. Engine rebuild in progress (fall 2023).

[whatdoesthisbuttondo?]

Will I require new rings now that these have started to break in but have been removed from the cylinders during tear-down and lost their seating?

The engine has run less than 100 km. Cylinders are getting polished but honing marks still visible. Rings show areas of wear.
_________________
Orange 1973 Campervan. Rebuilt 1700cc with dual Solex carbs. Pertronix electronic points on stock distributor. Engine rebuild in progress (fall 2023).

[busdaddy]

You should be able to get by with a fresh honing.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[Tcash]

[whatdoesthisbuttondo?]

"What do you mean by getting polished?"

Starting to shine up as honing marks are worn.

_________________
Orange 1973 Campervan. Rebuilt 1700cc with dual Solex carbs. Pertronix electronic points on stock distributor. Engine rebuild in progress (fall 2023).