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Subaru motor swap - front radiator
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herkster
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 6:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nicely done Driftin! Looks good. Any idea of how much power you are getting? How much boost are you pushing?
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Driftin
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lots of turbo Power - rated at 268hp!! With the BFG's the car will still chirp and burnoff in 3rd gear. No comparison to my late Baja with a Subie 2.2 / duel carbs or clone buggy with a tame 2180 / duel webbers. The motor and turbo are stock with the boost stated at 13.5. I think the aftermarket ecu helps in the performance of the car to.

Add a little Aviation gas on a cool day then hold on!!

There seems to be plenty of low end torque to make it drive able in the city. It can be bogged down to 15 mph in 3rd gear going thru roundabouts in my area then recover to 35 mph quickly without the need to shift. It's easier to drive than expected - the 9" stage 2 clutch is still a little harsh on the street.

Today the stainless exhaust flange came in from Columbia River Mandrel bending so I can get working on the exhaust. I'm trying Tom's suggestion with the CC insert first.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Now that the car is on the road (350miles traveled)I need to address the stiff steering but hope the new ball joints and rod ends just need to loosen up. The rear of my car has 1/2" toe out that I can't get adjusted without removing the rear spring plates to enlarge the slots for the bolts to move forward. They were(I thought) slotted at least 3/4"-1" long before I installed them. I must have cut the slots in the wrong direction.
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herkster
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 5:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What transmission? 3.88?
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Driftin
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stock bus 6 rib 4.57


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herkster
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 5:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

what that ratio it probably launches pretty good!
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herkster
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2015 6:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

are you running a thermostat or at least a thermostat housing to slow the cooling?

what temperatures are you getting on the interstate?
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Driftin
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2015 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The stock 185 degree thermostat is what my car has been running with great success. The crossover pipe return line is connected to the water pump pouring hot water from the motor onto the thermostat getting it to open. There is also a second return line that comes from my turbo. Remember I'm in Oregon and the weather is usually moderate. The buggy has never heated past 185 degrees even in the past heat wave with temps to 105. Highway temps seem to want to run 180-183. My thick Afco radiator does a great job cooling it.

Also there is an auxiliary air valve(from a 280Z) hooked to my PVC valve to act as a choke for starting in cool weather. It seems to work well for this purpose.

Here is a thermostat housing from Outfront Motor Sports that is not being used. Instead I'm running the return lines and stock thermostat.

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I'm trying to get some air thru my IC. Very little movement with the current setup in the picture. I have a funnel hooked to the end of the black 2" tube feeding into a quickly made box below the IC. I'm ordering a fan for now.

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Criscobath
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 7:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

GREAT looking build!
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Driftin
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2015 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the response, the build has been enjoyable and a great learning experience. I started with this:

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cleaned it up looking like this:

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then changed it to this:

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The heat off the radiator was nice last night for an evening cruz! The temp was 70 degrees and I usually need a light jacket. Not any more! I have heat in this buggy.
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Driftin
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2015 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Toe in problem with my rear wheels turned out to be a washer spacer was placed on each side of the rear trailing arm bushings. Both of the spacers are to be placed on the outside of the bushing. Learned something new again today! Now the wheels are neutral.
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Driftin
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2015 2:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm still working on an exhaust thats no so loud for my car. The 6" tip that I started with was to loud for me and street use. But I don't want to put on a full size muffler so I guess I will try a few different ones.

This 10" tip with the CC insert choked the motor to much and the car didn't have as much power or top end pull. Maybe the pipe should be 3" or 3.5" to work better. I used 2.5".
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My neighbor handed me this mini muffler out of his 2015 WRX to try. It's tacked on to the exhaust flange that came with the motor. Turns out the Mini has a terrible drone at highway speed to I replaced it with the 6" tip for now. I'm probably going to get a 16" resonator and run that. Another person suggested Burns stainless mufflers - That may be more than I need.



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herkster
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2016 1:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Subaru motor swap - front radiator Reply with quote

what manifold from the engine to the turbo are you using? is that a stock manifold?
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Driftin
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2016 4:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Subaru motor swap - front radiator Reply with quote

The exhaust manifold is from Outfront Motor sports and bolts right up to the turbo and exhaust ports. They do have a nice jet coated manifold and polished turbo's!! Here is the Burns Stainless muffler that I went with. Having the muffler close to the turbo made me feel like I may need to repack it some time so I went with a expensive take apart muffler. Works great!

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Tom_Kathleen
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2016 5:46 pm    Post subject: Re: Subaru motor swap - front radiator Reply with quote

I'm sorry the Car Chemistry insert didn't work for you. We never noticed any top end loss with a 2 1/2" exhaust on a Garrett T3/T4. How much quieter was it with that setup? If you are on the boost, you're going too fast (for the street)!!!
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GS guy
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2016 6:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Subaru motor swap - front radiator Reply with quote

Driftin,
The Burns muffler looks good! I'd opt for a short turn-out tip to face the exhaust outlet towards the rear, though your setup looks clean.

How are you activating the IC fan? On all the time? Toggle switch? Looks nice and compact and fits well with the back of your buggy.
Jeff
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Driftin
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2016 6:44 pm    Post subject: Re: Subaru motor swap - front radiator Reply with quote

We had a short turn back exhaust from Outfront Motorsports on the Turbo for the summer and my younger drivers liked to sound - But it was a little loud for longer drives. The Burns helped the noise but didnt lower the motors performance.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The IC fan is on a toggle for now - the fan really helps move air. There is no air flow in that area so I may try a Air to Water IC this summer. The car is so fast with cool air that it's fun to upgrade that system.
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clonebug
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2016 9:47 am    Post subject: Re: Subaru motor swap - front radiator Reply with quote

Is there any way you can log your intake air temps after the intercooler???

When I talked to that Guy from New Zealand with the Baja Bug, Mario said his temps never went over 100*F at 12 lbs. boost and the fan never came on.

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His intercooler is sitting just like yours and I plan on trying it in the same position this winter hopefully.

If you can log your temps you can see if you actually have an issue that you need to address.
IAT's of 100*F would be to die for.......

I see 135*F with Water/Alcohol Injection.

Intake air temps do make a difference.

Here is a cool calculator for IAT's

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/calcboost.html

I input my engines specs and while IAT's make a difference, max rpm would gain me a lot more hp.
Changing from 5200 rpm to a max of 6000 rpm really shows the difference.

Try it with your engine specs.
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vwracerdave wrote:

Take a good long look in the mirror and report back on what you see.


Paul.H wrote:
That one line on that chart is probably better info than you can get from this place in a month



My Megasquirt Fuel Injection Turbo Buggy Build
Water/Alcohol Injection
Audi TT intercooler
Upgraded to MS3Pro-Evo
EcuMaster PMU16
ECUMaster ADU5 Digital Dash


http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=127936
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Driftin
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2016 12:08 pm    Post subject: Re: Subaru motor swap - front radiator Reply with quote

Hi - I'm looking into a temp unit that will give me the Ambient temp and temp after the IC. The IC is very warm to the touch before I added the fan. Now with the fan on constantly the IC feels slightly warm. What are the actual temps? I need to work on that.

The back of a beetle gets better air flow than a Manx, I wish I could say my IC temp were just over ambient but a better guess would be 150-160 without the fan and pushing the car a little.

Any suggestions on an affordable IC temp unit?
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clonebug
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2016 2:12 pm    Post subject: Re: Subaru motor swap - front radiator Reply with quote

Driftin wrote:
Hi - I'm looking into a temp unit that will give me the Ambient temp and temp after the IC. The IC is very warm to the touch before I added the fan. Now with the fan on constantly the IC feels slightly warm. What are the actual temps? I need to work on that.

The back of a beetle gets better air flow than a Manx, I wish I could say my IC temp were just over ambient but a better guess would be 150-160 without the fan and pushing the car a little.

Any suggestions on an affordable IC temp unit?


Here is one....

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/prosport-digital-ga...p-986.html

Amazon has it cheaper...

http://www.amazon.com/Intake-Temperature-Gauge-prosport-Digital-Display/dp/B006CUCNSY

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It would be nice if it gave digital and analog output but I'm not sure if it does.

Here is a PLX......If you already had the AFR sensor and Multi Gauge it would work well for you since multiple sensors can be daisy chained to the one gauge.

http://www.plxdevices.com/Air-Intake-Temperature-Sensor-Module-Type-K-p/897346002214.htm

I'm not too sure about the thermocoupler but otherwise.

I have the PLX AFR Sensor and Multigauge and am really happy with it.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I log mine with MS-2. It uses a standard GM IAT sensor. Once you know what it does you don't really need it full time but it's nice to have.

If you are running a stock ECU it should have a sensor for the intake already along with an AFR sensor.
Here is an interesting unit that will hook up to you OBDII connector if you have a 1996 or newer engine and an Android phone.

http://www.plxdevices.com/Kiwi-2-OBD2-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-p/897346002573.htm

You will need to do a little research on it since it might require the PLX Sensors and the add-on adapter to give you the info you want.

I'm not sure what info you do get from it. but for $39.99 it would be fun for the coolness factor alone.
_________________
vwracerdave wrote:

Take a good long look in the mirror and report back on what you see.


Paul.H wrote:
That one line on that chart is probably better info than you can get from this place in a month



My Megasquirt Fuel Injection Turbo Buggy Build
Water/Alcohol Injection
Audi TT intercooler
Upgraded to MS3Pro-Evo
EcuMaster PMU16
ECUMaster ADU5 Digital Dash


http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=127936
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Driftin
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2016 2:31 pm    Post subject: Re: Subaru motor swap - front radiator Reply with quote

Heres one : http://www.amazon.com/Intercooler-Temperature-Gauge-prosport-dual-Digital-Display/dp/B006CUIL2Q

I'm running the AEM stinger ecu - No Subaru codes to mess with.


Last edited by Driftin on Mon Feb 08, 2016 10:48 pm; edited 1 time in total
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