The Baja Bug - First Timer's Thread

[Brian]

Yea, almost 3k at 60 sounds right. Does it sound like 4k rpm?
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Wash your hands

'69 Bug
'68 Baja Truck
'71 Bug
'68 Camper

Only losers litter

[EnjoyNukaCola]

Yeah that's the PDF I was just looking at. Mine is the model 3904 with the date 2000 on it they show on left side of page 3. It's not electrical calibration so the wires to cut must be tucked back inside the housing. Its sounds like 4000 rpm so I strongly believe its working properly.
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"when i go to drive it i get to like 5-10 mph it is at high rpms and gets higher the faster i go when i shift up to second the rpms drop is this normal or what and this is my first vw please help"

[Dark Earth]

If I ever get my car running, I can check out my own RPM / MPH.

I have a stock 1969 IRS trans which is supposed to be a 4.125 ring and pinion ratio and a .89 4th gear ratio. I bought some 30 x 9.50 x 15 General Grabber AT2's which are supposed to be 29.7" diameter.

By my calculations ... at 60 mph ...

I should see ... 60 mph x 336 x 4.125 x .89 / 29.7 = 2492 ( I'll call that 2500 )

I'll make sure to post what I get when it's up and running.
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My Build: '69 Baja - Dark Earth Version

~I'm almost done. I just lack finishing up.~

[dustymojave]

As NC said, Baja Bugs get downright squirrelly at higher speeds. Guys on this and other forums often talk about driving their Bajas on freeways at 80+mph. My own experience has been that my own Bajas have tended to lift the front tires off the pavement by about 85mph in calm conditions. 85mph and going straight down the road with the steering wheel at full lock gets scary.
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Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[Dark Earth]

[dustymojave]

I've never had trouble with anything up to 80mph. Bigger rear tires tend to overcome the need for the front sway bar.
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Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[Brian]

I rock 215/75-15s and 75 is a stroll in the park. Can't hear myself think but handling is just fine. Do I have an advantage over a baja because I've got a full body?

NC, did you ever figure out you tach debacle?
_________________
Wash your hands

'69 Bug
'68 Baja Truck
'71 Bug
'68 Camper

Only losers litter

[dustymojave]

Yes...The full body VW sedan DOES have an aerodynamic advantage.

I've watched the same engine/trans/tire combo get 30mpg in a sedan and 20mpg in a Baja Bug.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[Dark Earth]

[dustymojave]

Skid plates actually smooth air flow under the car.

The full front body is more slippery through the air than the cut back front end of a Baja. Wide-eye style Baja body work is more slippery than a Bug Eye.

Closed front fender panels help air control. The 1-piece front end on my Baja is installed with the inner fenders intact.

Many 5-1600 Baja Bug racers are enclosing the lower front around the bumper and below the 1-piece front end with thin plastic sheet for improved aero.
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Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[Dark Earth]

[EnjoyNukaCola]

A lot of wind gets trapped under the hood. A skidplate would help deflect some of that away from being trapped, but it's still generating some lift. Luckily it wont go faster than 65.
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"when i go to drive it i get to like 5-10 mph it is at high rpms and gets higher the faster i go when i shift up to second the rpms drop is this normal or what and this is my first vw please help"

[dustymojave]

One brand of wide-eye 1-piece Baja front end has air outlet vents in the 1/4 panels. There is also one available with "trophy truck" louver air outlets in the upper "hood" surface. Both help get air out from under the hood for a Baja with the front inner fender panels cut away. But those inner fender panels can be replaced with Filon or other thin fiberglass sheet such as is used by 5-1600 racers. Check McMaster-Carr and other such industrial supply houses.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[EnjoyNukaCola]

Been posting on Strictly Baja Bug's Facebook lately. Car sat for nine days and when I fired it up it wouldn't idle, got real hot and some vapor was coming out of the top of the carb. Did some things and put in a new equivalent idle jet that I had. Now it idles but starts like it's flooded and there seems to be some seepage around the carb flange and throttle linkage. Put in a new battery because the old one died from cranking too much. Ebay user I bought from said it was a rebuilt and rebushed. There might also be gas in the oil because I saw it drip down after I shut it off AND I've had a reoccurring issue with bogging down when braking like the float is set too high.

There's also an issue with my intake manifold. I am using a CB performance center section that allows you to use a 30 or 34. I'm using the 30. I can't get a wrench on the nut close to the fanshroud and the barrel nut for the cable always rubs on the side. Am I better off using a 34 center section with an adapter?
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"when i go to drive it i get to like 5-10 mph it is at high rpms and gets higher the faster i go when i shift up to second the rpms drop is this normal or what and this is my first vw please help"

[Dark Earth]

[Dark Earth]

I went out to garage to take a look at my carburetor and found this with the throttle pulled open. Well, there's something else to add to the list (along with the return spring getting ready to fall off ). I think I'll remove the throttle lever and try to bend it back straight. If that doesn't work, I might just file some of the excess barrel nut down. Or, as a last resort, I may just have to grind a flat on the side of the manifold for clearance.

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My Build: '69 Baja - Dark Earth Version

~I'm almost done. I just lack finishing up.~

[Dark Earth]

I measured the length of my barrel nut and came up with .670". I stuck the barrel nut into my cordless drill and ran a coarse file over it with the drill at high speed until I took about .050" off of it. I put a drill bit into the barrel nut opening in the throttle arm and pried the arm a little straighter.

I'd say if this doesn't give you enough clearance you should be alright filing the aluminum manifold enough to clear everything.

_________________
My Build: '69 Baja - Dark Earth Version

~I'm almost done. I just lack finishing up.~

[EnjoyNukaCola]

I filed down the barrel clamp also. My issue is that I just cant access the rear nut to remove the entire carb, heat risers do not fit well either and touch the intake boots, which may have caused them to heat up and crack prematurely. I bought an OG center section with one piece heat risers. I'll be swapping over to it with new boots and using a carb adapter. Hopefully it works out better than the CB Performance copy.

Also, can anyone tell me the metric thread size for a reverse light transmission switch? I need to replace the switch with a tapered socket head plug to prevent any further leaks.
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"when i go to drive it i get to like 5-10 mph it is at high rpms and gets higher the faster i go when i shift up to second the rpms drop is this normal or what and this is my first vw please help"

[dustymojave]

Why do you feel a need to remove the switch? I've run gearboxes with switches in place and not used for years with no trouble. If it's leaking internally, take it out, clean it thoroughly, finishing with brake cleaner spray or acetone. Then fill the switch body with epoxy.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[EnjoyNukaCola]