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Need advice on a condenser problem.
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Juanito84
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

modok wrote:
One thing I did not know for a long time is that the WIRE from the condenser/points to the coil is actually something not to mess with.

Part of the reason that the condenser comes with the wire attached is because the length of the wire is part of how the coil/condenser is "tuned"

This may not be your problem, but keep it in mind.


I do believe Modok is correct. The original coil and condensor design not only assorbs the voltage spike caused when the pounts open but also cause a resonance between the coil and the condensor. This is what causes a longer spark. Even a slight change in the inductance of the coil and lead wire can dramatically affect the frequency. Try it on SPICE or get out your oscilliscope.
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

He's running a Bosch 010 so the condenser has a short wire that connect to the points. Then there's another wire that runs from the distributor to the coil.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I've restored thousands of distributors that are this way and no one has ever had a problem with the condensers. About 5 years ago Bosch moved the production of the condensers from Germany to Turkey. There has been no reports of any issues with the ones made in Turkey.

BTW... the original wire that runs from the coil to the distributor was 16.34" long. (don't ask why i know this).

In my 40 years of working on VW's i've seen very short wires, very long wires and everything in between. I've even seen the condenser mounted on the coil and not the distributor.
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Fred Winterburn
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most of that oscillation occurs after the spark has extinguished. If you replace the points with a Pertronix for example, that characteristic Kettering oscillation on the trailing end doesn't exist yet the spark duration is just as long providing it isn't clipped off short to increase the dwell as with the Pertronix II. The length of the points lead wire should be kept short rather than be an antenna for emitting rmi from the arcing at the points gap, but the difference it makes when compared to the overwhelming influence of the coil inductance is miniscule. Fred

Juanito84 wrote:
modok wrote:
One thing I did not know for a long time is that the WIRE from the condenser/points to the coil is actually something not to mess with.

Part of the reason that the condenser comes with the wire attached is because the length of the wire is part of how the coil/condenser is "tuned"

This may not be your problem, but keep it in mind.


I do believe Modok is correct. The original coil and condensor design not only assorbs the voltage spike caused when the pounts open but also cause a resonance between the coil and the condensor. This is what causes a longer spark. Even a slight change in the inductance of the coil and lead wire can dramatically affect the frequency. Try it on SPICE or get out your oscilliscope.
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slalombuggy
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fred Winterburn wrote:
Hi, I don't know how the subject changed from condensers to cylinder pressure preventing an electric arc at the spark gap, but here is the short answer: The electrical resistance across the spark plug gap is almost proportional to the density of the fuel/air charge that exists between the plug electrodes. Double the cylinder pressure and you double the density and hence the resistance. A higher resistance needs a higher voltage to strike the arc. Fred]


That's what I learned in trade school 25 years ago also. Maybe basic theory has changed since then

nsracing, I would expect better form you critisizing someone becasue they only have 69 posts, lame. I didn't realise we were judging people by their post count now............

brad
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nsracing
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 9:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just trying to make sense what you people are proposing. Did this engine get built w/ ungodly compression that it is preventing the spark from coming through?

I mean, God damn.... did you just build this engine to run w/ so much freaking compression beyond what available fuel can support that the arc does not even come across?

Come on now. You gotta think about what you spew out here to even make any sense. I mean just how much freaking compression are we talking about that the arc does not go across??

Yea, I will question how much you know about electricity. The condenser had been changed 3 times and yet none has even known if the last one was dead.

If the condenser is not showing infinity, then it is dead. Otherwise it is fine.

Troubleshooting should be systematic. Not random to whatever piece you want to change out. That is not troubleshooting.

I have built some high compression motors running stock ignition and they fired fine. So I am not getting what is the issue w/ the compression w/ this engine that the arc is not going across.

If you input some idea, better support that w/ verifiable events.

This guy w/ 69 posts cannot seem to support his claim that high compression will inhibit an electric arc to come across the electrode in the spark plug. YOu would have to flood the chamber w/ fuel for the arc not to come across. You are talking at least 60,000 volts!
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royraison
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 11:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nsracing wrote:


This guy w/ 69 posts cannot seem to support his claim that high compression will inhibit an electric arc to come across the electrode in the spark plug. YOu would have to flood the chamber w/ fuel for the arc not to come across. You are talking at least 60,000 volts!


Sorry I don't have 5,700 posts behind my name,but as its an issue,I checked a couple hundred of yours,, All gibberish and self promotion ! ! then I looked at your feedback seven pages of unhappy customers ??

by the way there is a big differance between high cylinder pressures and high compression.
You made fun of my referance to a garden tractor site,,I happens to have very good information on coils ,condensers and how they work..

I should have reffered to an aircraft ignition site ,but that would like this discussion have been over your head.

After rereading these posts I belive Glen is right on advising a coil change.
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modok
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 11:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

???? That guy is quite the character. Smaller gaps are used all the time with turbo or high compression. But how could an engine idle with high pressure?? potato in the tailpipe?? IMO yous guys both got potatos in the tailpipe

anyhow, though of another thing. If the connection from the coil to +12 volts is poor, or the vibration of the engine is wiggling something, ect.......causing some kind of intermittent connection on the + side of coil, that might be able to kill the condenser too. I bet having the coil wired backwards could also cause it......maybe. I used to know that.............
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nsracing
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 1:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yea, but my feedback says nothing about electricity though. YOu are NOt getting off that easy. So where does it say anywhere that high compression will inhibit the arc from going across the plug gap?

You know I will hang this tire over your neck and light it. Laughing

When you jump into a crowd, you gotta make sure how much of your own ass you want to keep.

I am loving this already. Another wannabe...
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nsracing
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 1:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright...what is the difference between high compression and high cylinder pressure?

Please do explain....


cannot wait..
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morymob
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 5:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

nsracing wrote:
Alright...what is the difference between high compression and high cylinder pressure?

Please do explain....


cannot wait..
Hi cyl pressure don't have a 'n'?
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slalombuggy
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 7:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wasn't agreeing at all that this is the OPs problem in fact I highly doubt it unless he is running pro-stock engine compression. I agree it is probably coil issue.

We only have to look as far as top fuel engines to see the need for outrageous voltages (and amps) to light spark plugs. I am by no means saying our little engines have anything in common with them but it does illustrate the reason why they have arc welders for ignition systems. High cylinder pressure + dense charge = need for more current to light the candles, even with a super volatile fuel......At the other end, a lean charge also requires higher coil output because the spark cannot jump the gap as easy. Basic pre-employment trade school teaching that we watched on a scope and saw raster patterns change as the fuel mix changed.

brad
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royraison
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 10:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

nsracing wrote:
Alright...what is the difference between high compression and high cylinder pressure?

Please do explain....


cannot wait..


High compression,compression ratios that dictate use of high octane fuel.

Cyclinder pressure, pressure in combustion chamber at moment just prior to ignition, measured in psi, Affected by cam design, compression ratio, throttle position,engine load, elevation,manifold pressure,valve size ect.


Now,,I'm going to go take a bath,,feel like i've been wrestling a pig in the mud.
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ralf
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

was this ever resolved?
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Rustforlife
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 9:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ralf wrote:
was this ever resolved?

Sorry for not replying back sooner, life and an engine self-destructing got in the way.
Shortly after all this occured, the engine lost power, and in the course of investigating I realized that the engine needed to come apart. The car sat until a week ago, after a friend lent me a complete stock 1600 DP engine to make it to the Texas Classic.
The engine he lent me needed some small work to get going, and I swapped in the .010 with a fresh condenser and a longer wire to the coil. I ran the engine with the coil it came with, and once again a condenser died. Dropped the spare Chinese .009 in and drove it up to the show and back, over 300 miles with no issues.
So now I am at a loss. The condensers die regardless of the coil being used, compression is not an issue(9:1 on the big engine). The only constant is that the condensers are all out of Turkey. Got them from FCP Euro.
I have to give the engine back, and as soon as the big engine gets done I will adapt a different condenser to the .010 and see what happens.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rustforlife wrote:
The only constant is that the condensers are all out of Turkey.

I've sold hundreds of genuine Bosch condensers that are made in Turkey and have not heard of a single failure.
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AlteWagen
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finished rebuilding a German SVDA and thought I would try the last brand new Bosch condenser (turkey) with German Blue coil. After 2 months and several thousand miles it failed. Put my POS empi 009 clone backup and got home.

The whole point of me using points and condenser was that they used to be reliable and trouble free. Looks like I will be going black box sooner than I thought.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
Rustforlife wrote:
The only constant is that the condensers are all out of Turkey.

I've sold hundreds of genuine Bosch condensers that are made in Turkey and have not heard of a single failure.

I hope that you're not thinking that I'm ragging your distributors, they're very well rebuilt and your post-sale service is top notch. I'm at a loss as to what is causing this problem. Could an alternator be doing this?
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Juanito84
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well let's see here. When the points open the voltage spikes and the condenser absorbs part of it so that the voltage doesn't spike more than a couple hundred volts. It would seem that:

A. There is not enough resistance on the coil primary, which causes a higher current through the coil, which causes a higher voltage spike, which kills both the condenser and points.

B. The condenser was built with a low voltage tolerating insulator between it's poles that quickly desinigrates under the normal voltage spike.

C. The condenser was build with a low capacitance that causes a higher voltage spike that kills the condenser.

D. Aliens are messing with us.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2015 10:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bringing this thread back. I have a very similar problem with the 010 distributor. It has been restored recently and yet 2 condensers burned out within 4 months... I would suspect it's electrical problem? Perhaps bad ground? Where should I start looking?
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 5:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought a glen ring 010 for my okrasa 36hp. Was running on a 009 befor hand with thousands of trouble free miles. Within a few months of bolting on the 010 I went through condensers like underpants... First thought it was a fuel starvation issue then thought it was plugs, leads, points... Finally I changed the condensor and she was good as new again... For about 2 weeks befor it to fried. Went through this about 5 times before my 010 took prime position on the shelf while the 009 went back into the engine bay just so I could drive the thing... Don't no what the problem is but a friend with a 1904 went through the same thing befor going to magnaspark and never looked back
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