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1958 A T2 coupe restoration
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Jacks
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is a bitchen tool. Hurry up and make something with it Cool
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Jack Staggs
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roy mawbey
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jan,

Ten out of ten for the drive system Very Happy Very Happy

Your effort deserves a medal. Well done!!!!!

Your mention about KK reminds me I never got a reply either.

It also reminds me never to use their services again. They should close their website operation regarding help resources because no one answers it Mad

Roy
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RHD356A super75 106954
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Jacks
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You may want to put a catch cable on the drive motor in case the belt slips off or breaks. Ingenious to use the weight to tension the belt. Could you put a rheostat foot control to adjust speed?
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jan_t4
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Jacks, you're right. Good to secure motor from falling. That's why I mounted a ring as lower bracket which is a little wider than the outer diameter of the motor. So it could "hang downward" to stretch the belt with its weight, but could not fall through.

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I think I watched every Lazze's video www.lazzemetalshaping.com on youtube to get familar with a bead roller machine. Looks like you need the correct dies and lots of practise.

Time for some first samples. Started with some "standard bead". Works great. Unbelievable how much stiffer this small sheet metal is with these beads.

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roy mawbey
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 6:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jan,

Cool Cool Cool

Roy
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jjjjack
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 6:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice!
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Jack Stenner
1959 Mango Westfalia SO-23
1953 Porsche 356 Coupe
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jan_t4
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tonight was the night - and it was a sucessful night! Cool Cool Cool

I'm really really happy with the results, as you can see on the following pictures. I'm so happy, that I post some more pictures for other interested "hobby-mechanics" like me.

I started with a card board template from the better side, where only around 20cm of the wheel arch need replacement. It is important not just to copy the outline - the position is also necessary, because the wheel arch is not round. That's why I marked several points.
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Transferred the template to the other fender - take the backside because other side needs to mirror. Here you can see, why my 356 needs a wheel arch replacement. You can see a test piece laying on the table
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Start preforming the wired inlay. I used 3mm coppered welding electrodes of 1m length. Need to weld 2 ones together.
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Used the template to transfer the shape to a sheet metal
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Cutted the outline 8mm longer (inwards) than the final wheel arch position. You need that additional material to wrap around the wire. Try with a test piece how much you need.
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Started with the self made bead roller machine. Everything worked fine. Took about 5 test pieces to get familar with bead rolling. First cylce of bead rolling - the edge starts coming upwards.
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... after 5 cycles I had nearly 90 degrees angle ...
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... and the sheet metal panel stays nearly flat ...
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Afterwards I changed the dies to get more that 90 degrees angle ...
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... and it was time to insert the wire ... and fixed it at one end with a weld spot.
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Used a special tool to press the wire deep in the bead and closed it to 180 degrees with a hammer. Don't hammer dents in the flat panel - be careful.
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I used a pliers to finally close the wheel arch step by step. I put a metal piece between to avoid getting marks or dents from the pliers to my wheel arch. Long way to go needs lots of underarm muscle power.
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... but it came out great - without any major warpage left.
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... from the outside it looks fantastic - did not expect such nice result ...
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At the end I did a final run on the bead roller with a straight male die and a rounded female die to tightly close and level everything.

The starting and ending points on a bead roller are not so nice. So I made it a litte larger and finally trimmed it at the end. But do not cut the wire, because you need it later to connect the adjacent panels. So cut the sheet metal carefully "around" the wire and slip it of.
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The end looks great.
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Testfitting to template fits perfect ... and pre-trimming for final welding job in place.
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I'm so f*cking happy with the results and now I have an electric bead roller as well Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy
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James Davies
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fantastic work! Love all the detail photos of the steps. We are learning along with you.
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roy mawbey
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 4:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jan,

Wonderful result Very Happy You were brave to spend the money on the assumption you would get it all to work. I guess there are very few 356 guys doing their own restoration work themselves that have managed that application so professionally.

Super photo's really good explanation of how to do it.

That info needs to go on the www.abcgt.com forum 356 restoration pages for the guys there who are doing some great work themselves to see. Wired edges really have always frightened me Wink

Roy
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MMW
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 4:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is awesome. I have always been watching your progress & it always amazes me! Great job!
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1959 356 coupe
Missing the original engine 72488
Update - third pc. found!
Now just need the case halves.
1965 fenderless beetle
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jan_t4
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 2:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, thanks for all the positive feedback!

Jan
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jan_t4
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 3:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Meanwhile the sandblaster brought back my inner door garnish rails for front doors and rear area. They came out really nice and nothing needs to be welded or repaired. Really nice original parts.

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One of the rear parts I have twice. Comparing these double part I saw some little difference. Now I'm confused, if there are differences between A, B and C models or where does this difference result from.

As you can see from the pictures below they look really similar. The second one from the top has a small hole in the latch on the right side and the latch is a litte bit longer.
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... additionally the angular cutting in around the middle of the flange is in a different angle ...
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... in total, the second one with the hole in the latch is around 1cm longer.
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I've got a similar to the shorter top one for the other side - so I have a pair of associated parts. But want to know, if they are correct for A-Model or for another model type? Or is the longer one for a differnt car, maybe 911?

If it helps identifying, I could measure the total length.

Thanks for any tips. Jan
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jan_t4
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2014 2:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hope, everybody had a nice christmas and some happy holidays.

A friend of mine did a great job WIG-welding the wheel arches to the fenders. He works in a professional body restoration shop and is really familar with all the metal welding and forming technics - like finish working with an Eckold Kraftumformer to smooth the surface after welding.

It came out great and now it's time to put everything together in the front. It's not so easy to make pictures of that but take a look yourself.

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So the whole project "wheel arches by myself" ended really nice and I'm happy with this perfect results.
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blink
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2014 4:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks awesome mate keep up the great work

Great thread btw its awesome to read!
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alphi
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 12:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great job for your wheel arch, like a boss !
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roy mawbey
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alphi,

Just looked through your Meissen blue blog. You like Jan, are producing some very nice work indeed. The underneath of your car looks really nice. I noticed the front bonnet badge. My original 59 badge is more orange ( like Niels ) than red.

Well done on the work you have carried out. How long so far has it taken you?

Roy
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jan_t4
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 3:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last weekend was the time to put the front together again. A friend of mine stopped by in the garage and helped me out. With four hands its much easier than to do it alone. By the way he is a really experienced metal worker and 356 owner and my "Mr WIG welding". Everything fits together and came out really nice - as you can see on the following pictures. Now it lookes like 356A again.

Testfitting the front together and prealign with the front hood ...
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... used these clamps for testfitting. For welding they are removed again to have no gap for WIG-welding ...
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Pressed the inner front forward to fit inner and outer front panels.
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Spot welded the front to the fender without a gap. I cut the front from the fenders with a 0,8mm cutting disc - so now the car is about 1mm shorter Very Happy Very Happy
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Nice gaps without tinning yet.
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Really smooth curvature from front hood to fenders.
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welded the outer fender to the inner fender using the drilled holes of old weld spots. Grinded the spot welds down a little bit for WIG-welding.
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Now it looks like a 356A again - really like it Very Happy Very Happy
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Last edited by jan_t4 on Tue Jan 06, 2015 5:11 am; edited 1 time in total
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jgpierce
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 4:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jan,

Fantastic job! I've been following your posts and am impressed at your quality and speed. I am fitting a new nose to my B T-6 and know the difficulty to get everything to fit well. (Lots of pictures on the ABCGT forum). Your gaps look very good.


John
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roy mawbey
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2015 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jan,

Looking so nice the 'match up ' of fender to nose is super!! Those holes for driving or fog lamps in the front are they factory? Are you keeping them?

Roy
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jan_t4
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2015 8:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Roy

the holes are for body mounted fog lights - which seem to be originally installed at this car by Porsche. As you can see on the copy of the original Kardex-Card of my car, these are factory options. There are special brackets at the old original front of the battery box for fixing them.

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I will keep them but don't know exactly yet, which type of fog lights are correct. I read about Bosch, Hella or Hassia ones and I have small really nice Marchals. Nobody could give me exact type and model specifications for that fog lights.

They seem to be factory options for A-models. Never saw them on B/C cars. Have seen nice Polizei-356A cars with these body mounted fog lights.

Does anybody have mor informations?

Thanks, Jan

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