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Engine Build - 54
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txoval
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Joined: January 23, 2004
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Location: The Woodlands, TX
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 6:37 am    Post subject: Engine Build - 54 Reply with quote

Beginning of my 36HP Engine Build

DPR Counterweighted Crank

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Case getting ready for reassembly

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txoval
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 6:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Engine Specs:

Standard Bore and Stroke

DPR CW Crank with 14lb flywheel

Aircooled Research Stage 2 Cam with straight cut gears

Ported/Polished stock heads (33mm Intake and 30mm exhaust)

Full Flow, with 1.5 qt sump

Speedwell Blower w/ 31 pict 1 carb

header with baffled stinger

More pictures to follow
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henry roberts
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 7:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sounds nice, i'll be watching this one eagerly.

spotto bronze bushed lifters and case savers. any other case mods?

did you bush the lifter bores to reclaim the case? to reduce case wear with a more agressive cam? or for another reason?
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txoval
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 8:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the comments

Lifter bores were close to spec limit, decided to use bronze inserts for "safety" and ultimately strength

Case savers were installed due to the addition of the blower and 8lbs of boost, extra insurance

I had the case machined for an oil (sand) seal at the pulley.

Besides that, normal align bore, thrust cut (just due to bearing availability, case was in good shape at STD) resurfaced the cylinder surface as well

I had DPR balance the crank, flywheel, and pressure plate (pinned) together as well
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txoval
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 9:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update Pics:

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Crank gears assembled, waiting on rods bearings (Monday)

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The car (B&W)

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Color

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up close (to do the paint justice)
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pig-pen
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like very much.

Real nice.
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RichardinNZ
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

looking forward to seeing more of build and of car. What are the rear wheels and tyres you have?

Thanks
Richard
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'58 Beetle; NZ Assembled
Dual Carb 36hp
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txoval
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rims are smoothies widened to 6" and powder coated gloss black

All suspension, brake parts (including drums), pan are powder coated gloss black

Tires are 205/65 R15's - Falken Tires

Lug bolts are coated silver, my hubcaps are gloss black with white VW vinyl inserts
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Roadcow
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 11:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Be careful with the powder coated wheels, the lug holes need to have the powder sanded out or the lugs when tightened will break out the powder and become loose. Looking forward to pictures.
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Rome
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 7:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The insides of your engine case look amazingly and uniformly clean. Did you use a baking soda blasting method?

Appealing combination of wheel treatment, and body color.
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txoval
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just an update:

My rod bearings came in Saturday which was a pleasant surprise. Being my first time building a 36HP engine, I was unaware of the difficulty you can run into getting the rods to line-up properly to set the bearing on the crank. After several tries with the cylinder #2 rod, I've decided to get a replacement.

Side note thank you to Mr. Aircooled Research for the tips installing the rods. I understand now why VW made the change in rods.

I'm waiting on the Loctite "Klean and Prime" and of course a rod now to connect the case halves. Besides the rod, it has gone together well.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


rods installed (tangs down) #2 came off later

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


crank set and waiting for its last rod. pulley and 009 distributor are place holders, distributor drive set and ready

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Another car pic...love a clean trunk!
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txoval
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rome wrote:
The insides of your engine case look amazingly and uniformly clean. Did you use a baking soda blasting method?

Appealing combination of wheel treatment, and body color.


Engine case was baking soda blasted, steam bathed 3 times, oil passages cleaned countless times

thanks for the comment on the wheels...I'll post a pic with the hubcaps on soon. Can't decide if I want to run them or not
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Rome
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hubcaps- You can always install them on one side of the car, and leave them off the other. Drive the car like that for a week and finalize your preference...

Or take a photo of each side with and without the caps, post them here, and get votes from samba readers...

I'd think that the black hubcaps make the car look ever so slightly more stock (despite the all-black look); leaving them off is more like a "rally" look, and giving away some of the car's performance potential. You're going through the effort to modify the hubcaps, and I don;'t see many Beetles like that; so I suggest snap them on.

On your engine- when you mentioned "a blower"- did you mean a Judson supercharger, or a more modern turbocharger setup- if you even want to tell us in advance? You are strengthening your bottom end quite a bit to handle either power option.
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3foldfolly
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 6:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are there cam follower bore bushings installed on your case?
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txoval
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blower= Speedwell Supercharger (newer pulleys to create additional boost)

I had RIMCO install bronze lifter bushings (sleeves) to ensure proper fit and strength...$255 as an FYI
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3foldfolly
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

txoval wrote:
Blower= Speedwell Supercharger (newer pulleys to create additional boost)

I had RIMCO install bronze lifter bushings (sleeves) to ensure proper fit and strength...$255 as an FYI
I didn't know that modification was available. Thanks for answering my next question before I even asked. Smile
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txoval
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ask any question you have (or tell me if you see something wrong)

I'm posting to share my experience and do not believe in keeping "build secrets"

I'm using Redline Synthetic assembly lube, which so far has been great, very easy to apply.

Case sealant will be loctite 518

I used blue loctite on the rod bolts...
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RichardinNZ
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 3:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The car does look super clean.....with the wheels at least you have the choise of caps, no caps or a complete change later on!

Richard
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'58 Beetle; NZ Assembled
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txoval
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 4:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was lucky enough to find an all original rust free oval to begin with...I bought the car in April 2011, (original black car from Hollywood, CA) drove it for a year and then began the tear down (April 2012). The bodywork/paint took 6 months, then I slowly rebuilt the pan (brakes, suspension, etc).

The engine was a deviation from the plan...I was going to simply clean it up and put it back in. The rest is history.

Interior is all that is left, and I have the pieces...so once the motor is done I'm hoping to finish in a few months. I really can't wait to drive it again
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RichardinNZ
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the front beam narrowed?
Thanks
Richard
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