"homemade" tools??...photo results FAQ

[Tcash]

[nathansnathan]

[Tcash]

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=193876

[Tcash]

[Tcash]

Note: to eleviate the risk of stripping the pump insert threads.
Put a nut on the threaded 6mm bolt, insert the bolt through the hole in the puller and screw the 6mm bolt all the way into the pump body.
Hold the 6mm bolt stationary and tighten the nut to pull the pump insert.

[Alex6373]

Here are a few made by my grandfather made 30 years ago for me!

[chimneyfish]

You will have probably seen these cheap gadgets in local auto stores, DIY spark plug HT testers.

Handy as a quick roadside diagnostic tool so you can see a spark jump one cylinder at a time, hopefully avoiding the hassle of pulling plugs and/or holding HT lead ends near to earth for a spark, but not much use for the majority of our cars with HT leads that grip threaded terminals, as these testers are set up for non threaded terminals (if they ever did make these things for threads, they don't seem to be available anymore).

You will need:

- One of the aforementioned testers (or you can make four if you like, one for each cylinder! I'm happy with one)
- Electric drill
- Small 1mm or 1.5mm pilot drill bit
- 3.5mm or 3.75mm drill bit
- M4 brass screw
- M4 brass nut
- M4 brass washer
- Suitable small length of heat sleeving
- Solder, flux and a soldering iron
- Threaded steel spark plug terminal adapter (standard threaded at 4mm, this is the spare part you normally throw away when changing spark plugs)
- Flat blade screwdriver for M4 screw
- 7mm spanner
- M4 tap, tap wrench and small drop of oil or cutting grease
- Junior Hacksaw and fine file to deburr any sharp brass edges off the screw thread

If you have the above, the job will take about 10 or 15 minutes.

Put the tester in a vice for drilling the fitted solid terminal tip on the tester > determine the depth of the thread required in the tip terminal > put a bit of electrical insulation tape on both of the drill bits as a guide so you don't drill over deep and ruin the fixed terminal on the tester > drill the pilot hole centre of the terminal to the required depth > following the pilot hole now drill the larger hole to the required depth > put some oil on your tap and tap the hole with an M4 thread > loosely spin the brass M4 nut and washer onto the screw, and then turn the screw into the terminal just tight > put the brass nut onto the flat of the brass washer which is making contact with the flat of the terminal (the nut and washer are optional, but they lock the thread in place into the tester's male terminal) > gently tighten the brass nut, just a tweak or two, with the 7mm spanner > cut the head off the screw and any excess thread, you want the thread sticking out of the male terminal to be the same length as a threaded Bosch or NGK spark plug male thread terminal > pop on a piece of heat shrink, and heat it into a place with a heat source / flame, to tidy up and insulate the nut and male terminal (insulating tape will do if you don't have heatshrink > put the spare female threaded terminal from a spark plug into the base of the tester and pop it onto place in the tester's captive spring, and (optional but makes life easier) also get it to hold in place with a small amount of solder (this saves spinning of terminals through the tinware and the risk of dropping them down there and the hassle of getting them out with a magnet).

Note - when using you don't tighten the base female threaded end of the tester onto the spark plug as tightening too much will dislodge the solder (the solder is just there to stop the aggravation of spinning), it only a needs a loose spin down the thread to establish the electrical connection and get the visual spark.

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1965 Type 1 Deluxe (1200cc)
1976 Type 2 T2b Microbus L (1800cc Type 4)
Previously...
1972 T2 Camper (Devon), 1988 Golf, 1972 Type 1, 1984 Polo, 1972 T2 Camper (Danbury)

[Tcash]

Mini ratcheting bar clamp, used to pinch the fuel hose off to stop the flow of gas, while working on the fuel system.

[Abscate]

[airschooled]

[my59]

I use a 3" piece of 1.5" dowel with two holes drilled in it and then split in half. Thread two bolts thru a flat side, and face the rounded sides together over the fuel line and clamp down with other rounded side with wing nuts on the flat.
It currently is clamping off the hose to the heater in the benz as the heater contol is fubar and the heat is on all the time.
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my59: Well son, my grandfather died before I got to drive it, so does that answer your question?
our79: sunroof bus w/camper interior and 2.0 FI
Other:'12 Jetta, '77 Benz 300D, and a 74 MG Midget.

[ewdb92]

I got a couple of these hemostat/forceps clamps at a flea market a while back, they work great for fuel line work and easily fit in the tool box for emergencies.

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Erik
71 Camper
http://zerotosixtyeventually.wordpress.com/

[akscooter]

A diagnostic tool I made out of a harbor freight food thermometer.

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1975 campmobile
1949 Ply Special Deluxe
1991 Custom 1200 HD Sportster XLH

[Tcash]

[Tcash]

[Tcash]

[Tcash]

Adjust the size of the tool to fit your Esccutcheon (screw)

[Tcash]

Type 4 Fan hub Puller

[airschooled]

I had a friend call me to troubleshoot a clunking noise in his rear end. Without thinking, I pulled his shock out and it sprung open. It's a gas-charged off-road shock, and we only had a stock tool roll with us, plus some extra screwdrivers and sockets. I found this nifty way to hold the shock after I put my whole body weight on it to compress it:

No fancy jacks required! And you can do it with the tools that came from the dealership.
Robbie
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Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com

[Tcash]

Is it a t2a or t2b rubber band?