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Motor home / camper road trip
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HankScorpio
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 2:36 pm    Post subject: Motor home / camper road trip Reply with quote

I dont want to abandon my new rescue dog while i go on vacation So I got it into my head that I could buy an old junker Motorhome or vw camper take it on road trip and resell it when I get back.

Whats crazy is im using last falls trip to a dominican resort as my Benchmark for vacation cost. So I'm looking at really cheap ones <$2000
I want something crazy like this one on Craigslist
http://newlondon.craigslist.org/rvs/3093969174.html
It doesn't help that all my cars have been tiny and I have very little experice with Even full sized cars.
I'm assuming maintenance, insurance and fuel will be really expensive

This seems like a recipe for disaster (although disaster vacations seem to be the most memorable Rolling Eyes )

Any sage advise?
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's definitely a unique looking unit, I kinda dig it, I wonder if the mileage is really that low? The insurance is usually cheap and the maintenace isn't bad if you DIY (depends on how it was maintained previously too), the gas is what'll ge a killer on that rig, paint it pink and put a curly tail on the back Razz

At least you've got somewhere to stay when it breaks down Wink
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drscope
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2012 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Having used a few antique motor homes to pull my race car around the country I have learned a few lessons.

What happens with these things is that people buy them and then usually just use them a few times. Most of the time they sit. And as they sit, they deteriorate.

Then the owner finally wants to go someplace and discovers his nice expensive motorhome has rotted beyond a point where he can deal with it. Then they get sold.

The roofs leak which really hurts a lot of other stuff inside. The plumbing blows up or breaks, or stops working because it wasn't winterized or the pump got crusty. Holding tanks get cracks and stop holding. Tires get dry rot and like to blow out at very inconvienient places. Fuel tanks get rusty and plug up fuel filters with rusty water.

If you are considering this, one of the FIRST things you need to do is to get some sort of RV roadside assistance! We used Good Sam and it more then paid for itself the first time we used it!

Prior to that, we had an antique Winnebago that had served us well. But returning from Pocono one race weekend, the drive shaft jumped out. It cost us over $350 to have the rig (motorhome and trailer) towed LESS then 1 mile.

Good Sam RV roadside assistance was $80 a year. Never went anywhere without it after that! Used it a few times and was always very happy.

One thing you will find with the older ones is they are based on a truck chassis and many of them ride and drive like a truck. So if you go back to early 70's stuff, don't expect it to ride and drive like a Caddillac!

They are noisy, need a lot of steering correction (even when all the front end components are in great shape), and they don't do very well on gas mileage.

Once you step up into the 80's, things usually get a little more comfortable.

I'm just happy I don't have to fill that 150 gallon gas tank anymore!
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The Sage
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2012 10:22 am    Post subject: Re: Motor home / camper road trip Reply with quote

HankScorpio wrote:
Any sage advise?


Find a nice doggie daycare / kennel? If you find the right one, the new dog won't want to come home...

That seems cheaper than your idea.
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HankScorpio
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2012 1:08 pm    Post subject: Re: Motor home / camper road trip Reply with quote

The Sage wrote:
Find a nice doggie daycare / kennel? If you find the right one, the new dog won't want to come home...
That seems cheaper than your idea.

Hes actually trying out a new daycare next week.
Maybe he'll start leaving resort brochures around the house so he can go to the kennel Very Happy

The rv sounds like a cool idea but it also sound like a disaster waiting to happen. The more I think about it the crazier it sounds.
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Eaallred
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2012 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought my 77 Dodge motorhome last year for $1800. Put another $200 into tune-up stuff and an alignment.

I use it to tow my drag car to the out of state races. The cost of gas cancels out with the cost of a hotel room, plus it gives us a place to stay during the race if we need to get out of the sun or weather.

Tuned best I can, I average 7.5-8.0mpg out of the 440ci that is pushing it down the road. I bet that one you are looking at has the 440 as well. It's a good engine, the 440 used in the RV chassis were different (440-3). Better water jackets around the cylinders and heads to disipate heat better. They are torque monsters.

Road trip with a dog? It might be cheaper to drive a little hatchback and stay at cheap motels than to lug a big box around. Although it's nice to have a cold fridge and bathroom ready whenever you are, no matter where you are at.

But I will say, I am drooling over that RV, that thing looks badass to me! Mine is a boxy Class C, not much to look at at all.
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norcalmike
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 7:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

that is a good looking rig. I always liked the GMC motorhomes too. classic look.

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julrich366
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's been a long-term desire for me for about the past 15 years. Unfortunately, gas prices went out the yazoo and "disposable cash" went to other things. So our answer for travelling with dogs, is to stay at La Quinta Inns. They are "pet friendly" and have no charge or deposit for dogs. Has saved us a lot of $$ over other places since we travel from Ohio to Atlanta about 3 times a year to visit our daughter down there the past 6 years.
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Zeen
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's doable.

With gas prices, motorhome travel is more expensive than driving a car and staying in motels. But there is nothing else like it.

You don't need to reach down to the '70's Dodges, you can get a mid-eighties Chevy 454 platform cheap enough.

Bought this beast off eBay for $2400:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Put $1000 or so and some sweat equity into it, and drove it from Michigan to Yellowstone and back. Had a few issues along the way:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


But had a great time.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Sold it at the end of the summer to a drag racer for $4000.

Stay away from KOA's and such, go to National Forests and other places off the beaten path.

I spent as much on gas for the trip as I paid for the motorhome, so like I said, it's not cheap. But if you have time, the fewer miles per day, the better it looks.
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vdubyah73
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

don't even look at one that has been unused. if it isn't registered and test driveable, walk away. you want one that gets used. better to have 40-90k miles than 19k on an old one. the miles are gonna be low because the campground the po liked was only 100 miles away. couple thousand or more miles a year. sight down the outside walls look for bubbles, blisters, ripples all signs of delamanination, caused by leaks. if you see any, walk away.

if they sit unused for more than one year the chassis and drivetrain rubber stuff starts rotting. tires (expensive, dry rot blow out will make a mess of stick and staple construction) radiator hoses, flexible brake and fuel lines, front suspension air bags on chevy p30 frame (think potato chip truck), engine and tranny seals. if there is an exhaust manifold leak on either ford 460 or chevy 454 walk away unless you can r/r them youself. both have a tendency to crack, they get so hot they expand more than the head, they can also shear bolts. banks power makes headers for them, or you cut the flange between the ports on stock manifolds.

it's a buyers market' slow down, wouldn't you really want reliabilty more than cool factor. find a late 80's early 90's class c built on a chevy or ford. dodge stopped late 70's early 80's.

i'm shopping for an early 90's, 30-34', class a, been doing some research. go look at some for practice. we've looked at several, found on craigs list, advertized by used car lots.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 5:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have found that you need to check underneath the rv's they are basically a trailer home attached to the truck. so the subfloor will rot if they sit unused for a season if not cared for properly. just look it over like you would an east coast VW, bottom and corners are always suspect!
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seasoned RVers (we've logged 140K) never travel on tires older than five years even if they have zero miles -- age deterioration -- and they're expensive..... Sad
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GBA 88West LA
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

how do you rust proof the coach part can you put rust preventive material on the home part ,
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 3:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GBA 88West LA wrote:
how do you rust proof the coach part can you put rust preventive material on the home part ,


Most of them are built with non rusting materials. Steel is way too heavy for skinning something that big.

Many are covered in aluminum, fiberglass or some other type of plastic.
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19super73
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hoping to pick up one of these in a few years.

http://alberta.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-RVs-campe...Z381714563
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is what the wife and I travel in. 3 months is the longest at one time.
Marvin
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Zeen
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

drscope wrote:
GBA 88West LA wrote:
how do you rust proof the coach part can you put rust preventive material on the home part ,


Most of them are built with non rusting materials. Steel is way too heavy for skinning something that big.

Many are covered in aluminum, fiberglass or some other type of plastic.


True, but check out the underside. If they've been parked on dirt, the moisture coming out of the ground will rust the brake lines and chassis components.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2012 12:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Personally I prefer driving a smaller car and getting a hotel room, but whatever floats your boat. I just drove my family to Wyoming (1500 miles) in our suburban, and it was nice to be able to pass slow vehicles going uphill, but filling up the tank felt like getting kicked in the balls. I fly up to Wyoming to make the trip back home in a week. Better wear a cup this time.
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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2016 2:23 pm    Post subject: Re: Motor home / camper road trip Reply with quote

I'm looking into the motor home market and diesel pushers seems where it at,
Even a few with mini garages built in

http://www.monacocoach.com

What scares me about this purchase is that it seems they use cheap unskilled labor (no certs) in the construction process.
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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2016 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vdubyah73 wrote:
don't even look at one that has been unused. if it isn't registered and test driveable, walk away. you want one that gets used. better to have 40-90k miles than 19k on an old one. the miles are gonna be low because the campground the po liked was only 100 miles away. couple thousand or more miles a year. sight down the outside walls look for bubbles, blisters, ripples all signs of delamanination, caused by leaks. if you see any, walk away.

if they sit unused for more than one year the chassis and drivetrain rubber stuff starts rotting. tires (expensive, dry rot blow out will make a mess of stick and staple construction) radiator hoses, flexible brake and fuel lines, front suspension air bags on chevy p30 frame (think potato chip truck), engine and tranny seals. if there is an exhaust manifold leak on either ford 460 or chevy 454 walk away unless you can r/r them youself. both have a tendency to crack, they get so hot they expand more than the head, they can also shear bolts. banks power makes headers for them, or you cut the flange between the ports on stock manifolds.

it's a buyers market' slow down, wouldn't you really want reliabilty more than cool factor. find a late 80's early 90's class c built on a chevy or ford. dodge stopped late 70's early 80's.

i'm shopping for an early 90's, 30-34', class a, been doing some research. go look at some for practice. we've looked at several, found on craigs list, advertized by used car lots.


Update,
Bought a 93 Fleetwood Bounder 34C. 39k on it with newly installed Jasper 454 long block. Paid $7500 for it, The house part was near pristine condition, the PO took real good care of it but the chassis got away from him as he didn't posses those skills Needed brakes, exhaust manifolds, water pump, belts hoses, recored radiator, all the heat shields the moron engine installer tossed, and the alternator only charged intermittently and it needed tires. PO had had enough, all appliances work, no leaks. All the parts cost about $4k, including 6 new 8r19.5 tires, I did the work. took a year of labor because of a terrible rotator cuff injury requiring surgery and a year of PT. I saved radiator R&R until given go ahead for return to work strengthening PT. Took several 60 mike test-drives as I ironed out all the issues. Our first real trip was 2800 mile relocation to Texas from MA. other than a blown exhaust donut that I fixed in an hour, after cool down, trip was effortless. We are still living in it full time, wife, me and dog. We love it, it is very liberating. My house has a Chevy big block and if I don't like my neighbor or the neighborhood we start the house and move. We are both still working full time, with the low over head of living in a motor home we are shoveling money in the bank. We can even quit a job, with no worries, if a boss turns out to be a dick. If you can't find a job in Texas you're either an addict that can't pass a drug test or you aren't looking.

It can be done cheap but not as cheaply as the original poster had hoped. There are plenty of horror stories in RV forums of people trying long distance travel in old rigs. Silt clogged radiators and rotten tire blowouts are common. A blow out can total an old RV with any crashing involved the tire just destroys the body.

The tip for an RV roadside assistance plan is more than a good idea it's a necessity, for older rigs. Even if it's just to tow it to a junkyard. A class A tow can be several hundred dollars with a big ass heavy wrecker. We use Coach Net, which also covers our cars better than AAA.

Bill
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'77 transporter, junked had crotch rot.
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