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1968 Type 1 - My First Resto
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Cage44
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Joined: January 16, 2012
Posts: 197
Location: Robinson Ranch, CA
Cage44 is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 6:47 pm    Post subject: Re: 1968 Type 1 - My First Resto Reply with quote

UPDATE: Vent Wing Window Assembly - Part 2

With the wing glass and latches installed, I moved to the larger frame, rubber and other pieces to complete the entire wing window assembly.

For the frames, I cleaned everything up with de-greaser and shot a light coat of semi gloss black to cover any bare metal portions. For this part of the assembly, I had to install the rubber that fits into the metal frame and also attach the chromed division bar. Here are a few pics of those pieces:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The frame rubber is from Wolfsburg West and fit pretty good with very little modification. The rubber is pre-cut for the top pivot point of the glass and the bottom portion of the frame where the glass frame shaft inserts. I sprayed the rubber with silicone and started with the top pivot point. The rubber has to twist through the pivot point so I started that first. The rubber has a groove with two lips that sits inside the frame which has a curled edge in certain portions.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Before I inserted the rubber into the grooves, I made sure the white plastic piece that slides within the metal frame, was ligned up over the hole where the glass frame shaft will fit into. Here are a few pictures with the white plastic piece out of position and one in the correct place:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


If that plastic piece is not in place the rubber will not fit properly...it has a notch in the rubber to accept the top of the white plastic piece. Once everything was ligned up I sprayed silicone again on the rubber pieces and pushed one side of the rubber in. I then used a small screwdriver to push the opposite side of the rubber in until both sides slid into the frame. I noticed there were holes around the frame, so I decided to spray extra silicone in the holes as well which really helped the rubber slide into the frame.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Once I thought the rubber was seated I just pushed every inch of that rubber with my thumbs to make sure the rubber was seated all the way. A few sections fit much better after that process. Here is a shot of the rubber installed in both frames.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


As a side note, I forgot to take pictures of the rubber where it meets the end of the bottom portion of the frame. As you can see in the photo above, the ends look a little higher than the rest of the rubber which did not seem correct to me. The notch in the rubber where the frame fits into was not as deep as the rest of the rubber. I used an exacto knife to make a slightly deeper cut into that notch and the ends seated flat and straight.

Now for the divider bar. I had that re-chromed as well as the little metal piece that wraps around the divider bar that acts as the inside latch for the wing window glass. The inside latch has a little tip one side that fits into a hole in the divider bar. The inside latch also has a little lip on one side. I just started on the lip side then rested the inside latch over the divider bar. Once that was lined up, I covered the pieces with a rag and used a small set of pliers to fold the little edges that hold the inside latch to the divider bar. I had an extra inside latch piece, so I had all 3 pieces in my possession polished just in case one of the little pieces that bend over the divider bar broke off. They proved sturdier than expected.

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


With the divider bar complete, I had to attach each bar to the black wing window frame. I used the 1/8" x 1/8" rivets. I installed one on top and two on the bottom.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is the frame fully assembled:

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All that remains is the rubber that fits on the inside of the frame where the window glass will rest, the window glass itself and the felt channel for the door window. Here is a shot of the pieces.

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The rubber for the divider bar where the glass will rest has an angled edge. See below.

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I placed that angled edge so it will face the glass once installed. Installing it with the straight edge did not make sense and when I did a dry run with that edge, the glass just did not sit correctly. Here are a few shots of that rubber piece installed:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



To install the glass, I used a rivet at the pivot point with a small washer between the two metal pieces. Here is a shot of the glass installed and the glass lock inserted in the inside latch.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is a shot of the felt piece and the divider bar edge.

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For the felt piece, I sprayed the back side that will rest against the divider bar with 3M 77 spray adhesive and started at the top of the window frame and worked my way down. I used a plastic putty knife to push the felt in to make sure the felt was flat and the glue made contact. The length of the felt was near perfect and nothing was hangiing off that could cause issues with the door glass later on.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


That is it for now, I am working on installing the wing window assemblies and all the door window chrome trim, regulator, etc. Hope to update soon.
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Cage44
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2015 10:41 pm    Post subject: Re: 1968 Type 1 - My First Resto Reply with quote

UPDATE: Door Assembly - wing window, regulator, chrome trim, scraper, window felt and lower window guide.

Well, first off what everyone stated on other posts, this can be a PITA! I found that exercising a ton of patience and visualizing everything first and how it all goes together helped immensely. First off, I started with 2 of these:

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I know there are different approaches to assembly with little order difference between them. But at the end of the day, the majority of what you will read on this post and others worked. I will explain where things did not work or could have been done better.

I started with the other door misc pieces that needed attention prior to assembly. I previously cleaned up the window regulator and stored it until ready for install. I just needed to lubricate the moving parts and set it aside. I did not lube it originally since I figured it would just attract dust and debris while sitting waiting for install.

I used white lithium grease for all the moving parts. Applied it liberally since this is not easy to get too and I did not want to have to re-grease it in the short run. Using the door crank, I moved the piece that raises the window up and down a few times until it moved smoothly and with little effort.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The lower window guide also needed fresh paint. The guide has a clip on one end and a screw hole at the other. These appear to be left and right so make sure you have the correct side before assembly (I labeled my guide during tear down and I only worked on the the driver side first). I cleaned it up with simple green and a wire brush. I then shot it with primer and a coat of semi gloss black paint.

Here is the piece before clean up and paint:
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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is the finished guide painted:
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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


With the regulator done, I cleaned up the rest of the nuts washers, bolts, etc. I just cleaned them up and used the wire wheel on the bench grinder.
Here is the bag of parts I pulled for the driver side door. I was glad I kept some of the old clips, which came in handy.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


With everything prepped, time to get pieces installed. I must say, this procedure was one of the few that worried me the most, but it was not that bad at all. Just take your time, look at photos if needed, and take it slow.

I used tape to protect the door paint and still leave enough room to snap the scrapers in. With the tape in place, I started with the outer window scraper. All my door parts were from WW. The scraper has clips that snap into openings along the inner part of the door where the window goes through. Here are shots of the front and back of the outer scraper:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is a shot of the scraper clips and the hole in the door where they clip into:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Side note - in the picture above, you can see the blue tape. I originally put the tape too close to the inside edge of the door and when I started to snap the outer scraper, it covered too much of the tape and it was a pain removing the tape that was covered. After that, I removed the tape that was not covered and moved it away from the edge (just a little bit) so I could still protect the paint and snap the scraper in place.

From the outside of the door, I lined up the clips and used my fingers to snap the clips in. All the clips went in with a nice snap sound and the clips fit well and stayed. After every clip, I checked the rest of the scraper to make sure it was not flapping around that much and was fiting around the door window area. The overall all fit is pretty good, but with any after market piece it is not perfect. Here are a few shots of the outer scraper:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Next, I installed the window regulator. It slides in from the inside bottom of the door. I just lined it up with the window crank holes and also made sure the top of the regulator fit in the inside lip of the door. In essence, once the regualtor is installed, you should not be able to easily see the top of it when looking down where the window glass pops out of the door. If you can see the top of the regulator when installed, it likely is NOT tucked into the inner lip of the door. I attached the regulator bolts at the crank area and just lined up the other holes. I did not attach all the bolts since the window still needs to go in. Here are a few shots:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


View looking down to make sure the regulator is inside the lip of the door:
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Now, I installed the lower window guide that has the clip on one end and the bolt hole on the other. This was not easy. I had a hard time trying to get it installed. It covers the door lock mechanism that is inside the door and also acts as a guide for the window glass. Well, I tried and tried. After a few cuss words, I realized that the door handle and lock mechanism might be in the way. I removed the door handle and the lock mechanism. DO REMOVE the door handle, DO NOT remove the door lock mechanism. I found out quickly that the door lock must be installed first. However, with the door handle removed, the guide was much easier to install. I had to go in from the bottom, and rotate the guide slightly to get it to clear the lock mechanism and slide the top clip into its spot. I took some pictures but they may have been over written by the camera. You will know it when you have the guide in place, just do not force it. I just clipped the guide at the top and did not screw it in just yet at the bottom.

The outer scraper is held in place by clips that slide into holes inside the door frame. I purchased a new set of clips (5 clips). Here is a shot of the clips - they are much longer than the original clips:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The clips install around the inside of the door. They are used to hold the inner scraper in place and to hold the window felt. I placed a clip everywhere a hole was present to hold the outer scraper in place (6 in total - glad I kept an original clip because I was short one). To make sure the scraper had a snug fit, I used my needle nose pliers (wrapped in tape) and used that to lightly press the scraper flush inside the door frame. I DID NOT touch the part of the scraper that can be seen after install. I just made sure it was flat against the inside part of the door where the clip will go over the scraper and fit in the hole.

I would put the clip in the hole just enough so that it would stay and used my other hand to make sure the outer scraper was flush against the side so it would appear straight and flush when viewed outside the car. Hard to explain, but you will know it when it fits. I could not push the clip in with my fingers so I use a screwdriver wrapped in tape to protect the paint and just pushed the clip in. Some clips where tougher so I had to push the handle end of the screwdriver with my other hand and the clip would snap in. Again, you will know the clip is installed...mine made a good loud snap and also the little lip part of the clip goes all the way in the hole. Here are a few pictures:

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The front edge of the scraper has a little metal wing. That gets folded into a notch in the door frame to hold that front piece flush against the door. The front is also held in place by the wing window assembly.

I then installed the wing window assembly. Here is where a I made a mistake. I installed the outer scraper clips I mentioned above. However, there is a spot where a clip goes that is near the hole where the wing window is attached at the top. DO NOT install this clip just yet. Wait until the wing window is installed then install that final clip. I kept running into the clip and I also did not want to scratch the chrome on the wing window.

The wing window assembly just slides into the door at an angle then once the wing window bottom post (which will attach to the inside part of the door) is all the way in, you just straighten out the wing window until it is flush with the opposite end. I opened the glass part then gave a light tap with the palm of my hand until the window was in place and the screw hole at the top and on the inside of the door where the wing window post attaches lined up. Here is a shot of the wing window assembly installed:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The hole above and to the left of the door latch is where the wing window post is attached:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Now for the window felt that goes from the top where the wing window is, down the side and into the window guide that is at the bottom. I had not cleaned my old window up yet, so it still had the markings from the previous felt. I used that as a guide to bend the felt around the window. Lay the glass on a flat surface then insert the felt and press it tightly against the glass as you bend the felt around the contour of the glass. This really helped when it was time to install the felt in the door and to make sure the felt fit nicely into the door where it bends (facing car from outside it is the top right rounded corner). Here are a few shots:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here are the old felt lines which I used to line up the new felt. The felt does not go to the edge of the glass since the edge of the glass will slide into the felt channel of the wing window. By using the old lines, I think it made the felt, once bent, to fit easily and more snug with little manipulation.
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Here you can see that the felt does not go all the way to the top right edge of the glass.
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Once the felt was bent and seemed to form around the glass, I cleaned up the glass too remove the dirt and old felt lines that were on the window glass.

I inserted the felt through the bottom of the door and out through the top, but did not insert it into the door frame just yet. I probably could have, but I did not know how easy it would be to remove from the clips so I kept it loose until I installed the inner scraper. HOWEVER, after going through this, I could not get the innser scraper to snap in where the scraper is placed close to the door lock knob and the felt. I ended up pulling the felt out (glad I did not push it in) and installing the inside scraper first.

Here are both sides of the inner scraper:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Just like the outer scraper, it has clips and those clips are pushed into holes in the inside part of the door where the window rolls through. I must say, that this part installed without much headache and was easier than I anticipated.

Once the inner scraper clips and door holes were lined up, I started from the wing window side and using a paint stick from Home Depot I pushed the clip in with my hands. THERE IS NOT MUCH SPACE TO WORK WITH. I found it was easier to work from the inside of the door and pull the paint stick towards me which made the clips snap in easier than working from the outside of the door. I also did not want to bend or scratch the outer scraper.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Well, that worked for the first few clips but the rest of the clips were tougher to get in. Also, for the rest of the clips, the paint stick flexed too much to get any leverage. I decided to use a screwdriver on the backside of the paint stick to reduce flexibility.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Again, while pulling the stick and screwdriver from the inside of the door toward me, the scraper snapped right in with little effort. Just take it slow and watch what you are doing so you do not bend the outer scraper or chip any paint.

Now, the last clip that goes to the outermost edge (toward the door lock release knob) would not go in at all. I was pulling and pulling and the damn thing would not go in. I cannot fit my hand or fingers from the bottom working from inside the door and I could not get any thing up there to push it in. After another beer and a 10 minute break, I decided to use a small screwdriver and simply push it in using the screwdriver at an angle - almost pushing he clip straight into the door. The screwdriver was short and snapped that last clip in easily without damaging the outer scraper or the paint.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


There was a little overlap for the inner scraper where the rubber meets the divider bar. There was no space to insert the rubber between the door and the divider bar so I had to trim a notch in the rubber. I loosened the wing window shaft bolt (inside of door) and slipped the rubber in. Here is a before and after. It looks better now then pictured below since I was able to push the rubber all the way in and make it flush.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



With the inner scraper in, I then re-installed the felt. I inserted it through the bottom of the door and very close to the left edge of the door frame where the inner and outer scrapers are. This worked great and slid through with little effort.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Once the felt was pushed through, I began to install it by pressing the felt into the door channel where the clips are...the clips that were installed to hold the outer scraper. I started at the edge where the felt meets the wing window divider bar (which has felt as well) then worked my way to the left and down the door. As I went, I used a plastic putty knife and a rubber mallet to lightly tap the knife in the inside of the felt channel to make sure it seated evenly and snug into the clips and the door channel.

I then installed the glass. I placed a towel at the bottom of the door and also taped up the bottom of the regulator so the glass would not get scratched. Using the window crank, I rolled up the part of the regulator that will attach to the glass to get it out of the way. Slightly pulling the regulator bottom away from the door, I slipped the glass in from the bottom and let it rest. I then attached the bottom of the regulator to the door frame:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Then I attached the glass to the regulator. Again, I had problems with the camera but here is a shot of the two bolts that hold the glass to the regulator. It looks like these holes were designed to service things without removing the window glass.

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I rechecked all the bolts and tightened everything up. I worked the window up and down using the window crank.

Here is the finished door with all the pieces installed:

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


So, as a recap, here is the final order I would install the pieces after going through this process:

USE TAPE TO PROTECT THE PAINT

1. Install the lower window guide. If the outside door handle is in, remove that first then install the guide. The guide has a clip as well to hold the felt, do not foget that clip. I think it can be installed now or at the end BEFORE you install the glass.

2. Install the outer scraper and clips to hold it in place. Do not install the clip that is near the top screw hole where the wing window glass will install.

3. Install the window regulator. Note - when I do the passenger side, I may install the glass first, let it rest in the door, then install the regulator. Make sure the top of the regulator in inside the door lip so you cannot see the regulator from the top of the door window opening.

4. Install wing window assembly.

5. Install the inner scraper.

6. Install the large felt that starts at the wing window edge and follows the countour of the door down to the bottom window guide.

7. Install the glass.

8. Tighten all the bolts up.

I plan on doing the passenger side this week. I think I will take detailed pictures and post those without much explanation. I will try to get more detail. Thanks.
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Cage44
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 13, 2015 9:10 pm    Post subject: Re: 1968 Type 1 - My First Resto Reply with quote

UPDATE: Passenger door assembly and driver side mirror.

I finished the passenger door assembly (wing window, scrapers, felt, etc.) and had a few issues here and there but it was just as big a PITA as the drivers side...even with experience. But it is done. Here are pictures of the process with a few notes here and there.

As a side note, I started with putting the glass in first, then the window regulator and other pieces. As I tried to get things in position, I was afraid to break the glass, so I removed it. Since it was easy to install last on the driver's side, I decided to take the same approach.

Taped the door to protect paint.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Removed the outside door handle to install the lower guide channel.
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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is the lower guide channel.
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Clip end of the channel.
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Clip end inserts into the rear part of the door in this slot.
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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


With that in, on to the window regulator. It has to sit in the inside lip of the top of the door. Once installed you should not see it through the window opening at the top of the door. Here is a shot with the regulator outside the lip and inside where it should go once bolted down.
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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here are the clip holes for the clips that hold the outer scraper. There are 5 clips for the scraper and a sixth that will hold the longer felt that fits into the lower channel guide referenced above.

2 for the rear part of the door where it meets the door jam.
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3 clips for the top of the door.
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Here is the rest of the top of door that also has the hole where the wing window will be screwed into...the smaller hole between the tape.
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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here are the clips. Note - when I ordered them, the vendor stated 5 were needed, but six is needed if you include the clip for the lower channel guide. I used one of the original clips which I kept during tear down.
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I installed the outer scraper, snapped the bottom scraper part into the door holes then added the clips. Here are the retainer/felt clips installed.
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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I did not install the clip closest to the wing window screw hole...put that one in once the wing window assembly is installed. See below:
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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Installed the wing window and screwed it to the top and the side bar to the door.
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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Installed the third clip.
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Bolted the wing window side bar...bolt right above and to the left of the door release.
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Installed the inside scraper.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Tightened the lower channel guide to prepare for the long felt channel install.
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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Prepare the long felt. bend it around window using the older felt marks that are on the glass prior to cleaning.
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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Now the long felt. I pushed it through the bottom, then started at the edge where the felt touches the wing window side bar. Then worked it toward the curve in the door and then down through the lower channel guide.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Now for the clip that holds the felt to the lower channel guide.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I then installed the window glass, slipped it through the bottom of the door, then tightened all the bolts. Here are the bolts that hold the window glass to the regulator. I attached it at the bottom of the window, the once the window is wound all the way up, you can see the bolts through the 2 cut outs. Also, the bolt right below the 2 cut outs, holds the window regulator.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Bolts for the winder part where the window crank will attach.
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Bottom of regulator to door frame.
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That does it for the door. Final shot with all pieces installed.
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After looking around the outside of the car, I realized I only have the driver side mirror left. I waited to install the mirror until the driver door was done, in case the mirror got in the way.

I purchased the mirror from wolfsburg west. Here is the mirror.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The mirror screws into the pre-drilled hole in the door. I lubed up the mirror and the threads and installed it.
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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



I am glad to have the windows in, so I feel more comfortable driving around town with the ability to lock the car up. Stay tuned, more work to be done. Thanks.
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cuevas72
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 13, 2015 11:59 pm    Post subject: Re: 1968 Type 1 - My First Resto Reply with quote

This has been a great restore. You have literally touched every nut and bolt. I didn't pull the body off my son's 68 but I have literally touched every nut and bolt on it for one reason or the other. His car has been done for almost 2 years. It needs the some body work due to it not being done to perfection previously and it I need to tear the motor apart again (third time) because it crapped all the oil out of it a month or so ago. I did do an of frame restore of a 72 Super for a friend and I got myself a 62 for my project car. My son has tore it down and started the body work for me but I will be doing the chasis front to back when I get home for leave. Needs new pans and a new rubbers. I am looking foreward to seeing the final product when your finally done. Great work.
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Tim Donahoe
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2015 12:31 am    Post subject: Re: 1968 Type 1 - My First Resto Reply with quote

I did the R&R on my left door and found that the rubber on the outer scraper was puckered a little about two inches from the back end (toward the jam). The front top aluminum piece needed filing at the very end.

This was supposedly good, German stuff, and I'm pretty satisfied with it, but it certainly didn't fit like the OEM outer scraper.

My inner scraper was more difficult for me to install than the outer. I also had to trim that front rubber as it contacted the wing window.

A little talc and eventually the window rolls fairly easy now.

Great thread, by the way.

Tim
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2015 3:56 pm    Post subject: Re: 1968 Type 1 - My First Resto Reply with quote

Wow, great job, the door assembly seems like a huge mountain to climb with lots of opportunity to scratch new paint. Great job bringing one back. I really like it.
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Cage44
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2015 11:20 am    Post subject: Re: 1968 Type 1 - My First Resto Reply with quote

Thanks cuevas72, AirDirect and Tim Donahoe. Even when I am finished with this, I think there will always be something to do or refine.

Tim - you are correct, the windows are very hard to roll up, even with a well lubricated regulator. What kind of talc would I use? Would that be something sold at a hardware store? Would the talc be applied to teh felt part or the rubber as well. I used a little silicone on the rubber parts of the scraper and that barely did anything.

I agree with the fit, I purchased the best that I could and it still does not fit the way it should...I would hate to see the fitment of the cheap stuff.

I should finish the doors this weekend (panels, vapor barrier, etc.) and will install a stereo system next before I finish the rest of the truck area. Stay tuned.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 24, 2015 5:35 pm    Post subject: Re: 1968 Type 1 - My First Resto Reply with quote

Utterly outstanding work.
What you've done already paid off for me. I had the wiper arms off mine for painting & of course only when it's time to put them back on.........oh crap they're different...........didn't notice that when I pulled them off.
Found & ID'd R & L on them off what you posted.
Next have to study what you did for the windows, currently studying up to page 9 so far....

Add edit: after what you wrote & posted on the shifter rod & bushing, I'm going to try doing mine, that doesn't seem as difficult for what I'd thought was involved after seeing the pics and getting an understanding of it.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 27, 2015 8:36 am    Post subject: Re: 1968 Type 1 - My First Resto Reply with quote

Incredible work & incredible skill!! So glad I found this thread.

Did I mention great looking car....wow!!!
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2016 7:40 pm    Post subject: Re: 1968 Type 1 - My First Resto Reply with quote

UPDATE: Door drains, inside door lock release lubrication, and the moisture barrier / vapor barrier.

Thanks Goldbug3318 and Attitus finch! Atticus, I am glad the thread has been helpful...this is the only way I know to pay the community back for all the help I have received.

As a side note, I still need to add talc to the new scrapers but the windows are starting to roll up and down much easier compared to when they were first installed...must be the usual break in period. I leave the windows up all the time, even if in the garage and that has helped a little bit as well (maybe because the scrapers are being pulled apart with the window in the middle and the rubber is settling in...who knows).

Now on to the update.

Time to do all I can before I put the door panels on. I decided to lubricate and check to make sure the door drain holes were clear. I used a flashlight from the top of the door and looked through the bottom drain hole and cleared anything that may be blocking the drain. I put rust protection in the bottom of each door, so I wanted to make sure the drain holes were not clogged with that and other debris that may have accumulated during this build. I used a shop vac and sucked up anything in the bottom of the door as well. Here are a few pictures.

One of the drain holes (there are a few) in the bottom of the door
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The inside bottom of the door with the rust protection
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Next, I needed to re-install the vibration damper that goes behind the rod that attached to the door lock and the inside release. I am not sure what it should be called, but that rod would vibrate and make noise like crazy when I was driving around.

Here is the assembly prior to the damper or any lubrication
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I removed the inside door latch first which allowed me to move the rod.
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I then moved the rod up gently so it could rest on the bolt right above where the damper needs to go.
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For the damper, I used scrap material that I used for the floor padding underneath the front passenger and rear foot well carpet. I just cut 2 pieces down to size so they would fit both the passenger and driver door. I try to use any excess materials to keep costs down and to re-purpose where I can.

Here is the cut material
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I then glued the damper to the door using 3M 77 spray adhesive. I did not spray the door, I just sprayed the material and pressed it on. It set up fast and is not going anywhere. (As a side note, this completely stopped the rod vibration when driving).
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I then determined where the rod will likely rest and then rubbed white lithium grease on the rod and on the damper material as well.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I then applied white lithium grease to the hooked end of the rod, the inside door latch loop where the rod attaches and also added grease to the other end of the rod where it attaches to the door lock (no photo). I reinstalled the door latch.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


With everything lubed up and the damper in place, I moved on to the moisture barrier / vapor barrier. From what I read, the barrier IS NEEDED to keep any moisture from ruining the door panels. This includes general water sources like rain and washing the bug, but also from condensation and temperature changes, humidity and other sources that can build up over time. I want to do things right and once, so I took the extra step.

I used 4 MIL material that I bought from the local big box hardware store (Lowes). The plastic is thick enough and was not easy to puncture so it seemed like it would do the job.
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I decided to use the door panel as a measuring guide. I wanted to keep as much of the plastic roll in place without unraveling it and making a big mess so I just rolled the plastic out as it came off the roll and cut it to length. Then unfolded the cut piece.
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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I lined up the plastic at the top then cut about 1/4 inch from the edge of the door panel. Here are photos.
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I originally left a few inches at the bottom to tuck the plastic inside the door, then changed my mind which I will explain later.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Once it was cut to size, I begin the prep to attach the barrier to the door. I installed the plastic seals that will be used to attach the door panel - the door panel clips snap into each rubber seal.

I decided to use clear caulk (goes on white) to attach the plastic and create a nice seam around it. To keep things in place, I used painters tape, then cut openings for the window crank, door lock release and the hook where the door panel will rest on (the inside door pull handle uses this hook so when you pull to close the door you do not pull the panel off). I decided to attach the top half of the plastic first, then the bottom half. It really allowed me to keep the plastic in place and it did not move around at all.

Initial placement and cutting holes in the plastic
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Top half of plastic folded down to apply the caulk
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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I tried to tuck the bottom of the plastic in the door, but I just did not like the way it was fitting and it did not seem to form a real good seal. I noticed what looked like drain holes in the inside bottom of each door which looked like it was designed to allow any water to drain through those, then drain out of the holes at the bottom of the door (first picture of this post). So, I cut the plastic so that it would fit at the bottom of the door without being placed inside the door. I also cut the plastic around each rubber door panel clip seal and applied the caulk so it would go around each seal.

Here are the holes at the inside bottom of the door
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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Once the top half was finished, I folded up the bottom half and applied the caulk. Once the caulk was applied on the bottom and top, I smoothed it out to create a nice seal by running and pressing my finger against the plastic and the caulk. Finally, I used tape around the door lock release and the hook for the door panel to seal everything up as best I could.

It was messy at times and took way longer than I expected it. I did get much better once I did the other door and knew the right amount of caulk to apply. Once you do it once, you will know whether you used to much. I did have way more clean up with the first door than the second.

Here is the plastic and door all sealed up and ready for the door panel install.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I already installed the door panels, but I need to process the photos. I am working on the stereo, amp and speakers install now, which I will update as well. Thanks and Happy New Year!
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2016 9:28 pm    Post subject: Re: 1968 Type 1 - My First Resto Reply with quote

Wow, this is an amazing thread. Your build of the doors alone should be published in a notebook I can reference as I work. Thanks for documenting hour work in such incredible detail!

Victor
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2016 9:13 pm    Post subject: Re: 1968 Type 1 - My First Resto Reply with quote

UPDATE: Install of door panels, door panel clips, window crank, armrest

Thanks vamram, glad it can help.

With the moisture / vapor barrier in, time to finish up the doors. I ordered the door panels from TMI and I am very happy with the quality and the fit. Again, not perfect, but they work well and they feel strudy.

Here is the vinyl side.
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Here is the opposite side.
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The panels are pre cut and have all the clip holes, inside door release and the window crank pre-cut. The only cutting I had to do was for the armrests...more on that later. Here are a few shots of the precut holes. As with any product, the panels are likely meant to cover multiple years so there are some clip holes that obviously did not work for my year. However, every hole in the door matched up with the clips in the door panel...no modification was required. Here are a few shots of the panel:

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is a portion of the panel where there were two clip holes close together...just line up what works for your door.
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Extra clip hole at the bottom as well.
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I started by installing the door clips. I installed each clip facing out towards the edge of the door panel.
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With the clips installed, I moved on to the armrest. Here is the old one compared to the new one...excellent match.
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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The armrest attaches to the panel via a metal bar. The armrest has 2 posts that insert through the panel then are attached with the bar, a washer and nut for each post.

Here is the bar all cleaned up.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The panel has pre cut holes for the armrest.
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Using the distance between the 2 bolts on the armrest, only one set of holes lined up. To minimize errors, once I found the correct holes to cut, I shaded the holes using a pencil. I did both panels at the same time using both armrests to make sure the holes I cut were the same holes on each panel. Using the armrest holes there was no way to make a mistake.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Once I had the holes indentified, I used an exacto knife to cut out the panel board then pierced a hole through the vinyl at the center of the hole. I then pushed the armrest through the cut holes. Once the armrest bolts slipped through the vinyl and through the hole, I attached the metal bar.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is the armrest installed.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I ordered new springs, plastic collars and window cranks. The spring goes inside the panel around the window crank hole where the crank attaches to the regulator. I installed the spring with the smaller end facing the door and the larger end against the panel.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Now the panel is ready for install. I put tape all around the inside of the door to prevent scratches on the paint. The panel rests on the hook in the middle of the door. The panel bar, which holds the armrest, slides into that hook. Makes sense so that when you pull on the armrest to close the door, the panel will not pop off. So, you have to have the panel slightly higher than the hook then lower it onto the hook. This puts the panel clips directly on the door paint if not protected.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Once the panel was resting on the hook, I checked all the clips for alignment into the door seals and starting pushing the clips in starting at the top then working my way around until they were all installed. They popped in easily and were very secure.

With the panel installed, I installed the chrome piece that goes around the inside door latch pull. The photo is before I polished it up using a very soft steel wool and a soft rag.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The inside door latch slides into the chrome piece and the chrome piece is attached with a screw into the door. There is a pre-drilled hole and everything fit nice. The pre-cut opening in the panel did not need any modification. The screw is in the picture below, I installed it so I would not lose it.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Time for the window crank. The collar fits inside the window crank and keeps the crank from rubbing against the vinyl and possibly damaging it. Here are a few photos of the pieces together then installed against the panel. The collar has a circular ridge on one side that fits into the window crank. The smooth side will go against the door panel once installed.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


With the door latch cover and window crank installed, I installed the pull handle plastic piece next. It covers the screw and slips into the latch cover.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is a shot of the passenger door finished with everything installed. I am very pleased with how it came out...very clean and everything fit really well.
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Now, I did one little thing differently when I did the driver door that I thought I would share. As careful as I tried to be, I did make a small scratch on the passenger door when trying to get the door penal to fit in the hook. There was one spot that I thought there was enough tape for, but I still butched it up. So, for the driver door, I took the time to tape the door AND also put tape over every single panel clip. The clip is what scratched the passenger door. This worked like a charm and allowed me to install the driver panel much quicker since I had more protection.

Here is the door panel with the clips covered.
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I still covered the driver door with tape even with the clips covered. here you can see the tape covered clips and the door.
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Here is the final install of the driver side door panel. No scratches.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The doors are officially done. Also, the window is getting easier and easier to roll up and down. I try to work the windows everyday even if I am not driving the bug.

I am working on the stereo install and will update when I can.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 7:27 pm    Post subject: Re: 1968 Type 1 - My First Resto Reply with quote

Cage44 ~ You have done such an amazing job. I have to confess that your thread has been an inspiration. Hopefully that doesn't sound too corny. But it's true. I am currently restoring a 68 convertible and have looked to your thread a gazillion times as I go forward. Your detailed pictures and explanations have given me the courage to tackle things that I never thought I would. For example; restoring the gear shift and emergency brake handle. Smile Anyway, I know that the thread is a great place for you to document your work, but I believe it has been super helpful to more than just me. Looks like you are almost done. Congratulations1 It looks beautiful. Smile
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 7:39 pm    Post subject: Re: 1968 Type 1 - My First Resto Reply with quote

azamy66 - thank you very much for your kind words...and it is not corny! I am glad it can help and that is one of the main reasons why I try to be detailed...especially with my mistakes. I too am inspired by many folks on this site that help others and receive assistance as well...it is what the whole thing is all about. I truly have not done anything like this before, so if I can do it so can everyone else. Stay tuned...
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 7:40 pm    Post subject: Re: 1968 Type 1 - My First Resto Reply with quote

azamy66 - thank you very much for your kind words...and it is not corny! I am glad it can help and that is one of the main reasons why I try to be detailed...especially with my mistakes. I too am inspired by many folks on this site that help others and receive assistance as well...it is what the whole thing is all about. I truly have not done anything like this before, so if I can do it so can everyone else. Stay tuned...
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2016 5:01 am    Post subject: Re: 1968 Type 1 - My First Resto Reply with quote

Cage44 - Good day! I'm from the Philippines and currently restoring a 1968, 1200 Bug. May I request something? Can you post a photo with a complete view of how many drain holes are there in each door? Thank you in advance! -Robert
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2016 9:41 pm    Post subject: Re: 1968 Type 1 - My First Resto Reply with quote

Robert:

For my '68 there are 2 drain holes in each door. They are about 6 to 7 inches from each end of the door. The car is too low to get a photo of both of them at the same time, but see below for a shot of one of them. Hope it helps.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2016 8:59 pm    Post subject: Re: 1968 Type 1 - My First Resto Reply with quote

UPDATE: Stereo install. I decided to update in two parts. This part will cover the hardware and the next update will cover the wiring and other things done to complete the install.

Here are the items I purchased:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Alpine Head Unit – media type, no CD
Rockford Fosgate Amp with wiring kit
Kicker 6x9 speakers

The Alpine head unit came with the sleeve, plastic faceplate frame and keys to remove the unit from the sleeve if needed.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I also purchased a radio frame from Wolfsburg West in case I needed to expand the pre-marked opening in the dash pad for the stereo. I did not want any of the pre-marked lines to show after the stereo was installed and I was not sure how things would fit.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I was not sure how the dash pad and the cut out in the metal would line up. The dash opening was cut 20+ years ago for a single DIN stereo so I did not have to make any further cuts to the metal (it seemed like a good idea to cut the dash when I installed a stereo back in ’89 – oh well). So, pushing from the trunk area, I decided to use an awl and lightly push it through the corners of the dash opening. This gave me an idea of where I needed to cut the dash pad and also how the pre-marked opening on the dash pad would line up to the opening in the dash itself. I then used the awl to make a series of holes along the metal opening.
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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Once I had a general idea where the dash pad needed to be cut, I used an exacto knife and another sharp blade to cut into the dash pad.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


At this point, I really took my time and only shaved off a little amount each time as I tried to fit the stereo sleeve into the opening in the dash pad. I did not want to make the opening too big and end up in a situation where the stereo frame is not big enough to cover the cuts in the dash pad. This really did take a while. Cut a little, see where the sleeve was getting resistance, and then cut a little more. I wanted to stay as close as I could to the pre-marked cut out in the dash pad. Finally, I was able to get the sleeve to slide in. However, when I installed the stereo with the trim ring that came with the unit, the pre-marked areas of the dash pad could still be seen since the pre-cut marking was larger.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


So, I decided to use the trim ring I purchase from WW, which required me to cut the dash pad more until the WW trim ring fit flush against the pad, covered all cuts and also the pre-marked part of the dash pad.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is the WW trim ring installed. It was bowing a little on the top middle, so I did cut a little more in that area and it straightened out (forgot to take picture).
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Now that I was going to use the WW trim ring, I needed to make the stereo would slide into it. The WW trim ring opening was too small. I used my Dremel and slowly made the opening larger until the stereo with its own trim and the faceplate all fit flush. Again, I just shaved off a little at a time and make sure I went around the entire opening to make sure nothing looked cock eyed once installed.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here are shots of the complete unit with sleeve and without to check the fit before I lock things into place.
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How it will look from the front once installed.
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Once everything was ready, I re-installed the sleeve and bent the tips in the body of the sleeve so the sleeve would stay in place. Once that was ready, I slid the stereo in, checked the fit, made a few slight modifications to the WW plastic ring, then installed the stereo so it was flush with the dash pad.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I like the look with the WW trim ring and the fact that the pre-marked part of the dash pad is not visible and neither are any cuts to the opening. Here is what it looks like installed in the dash.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Once the stereo was in place, I used a metal strip from the old stereo to secure the new stereo to the body.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Now for the amp and speakers. I decided to take a piece of plywood and use that to mount the amp and speakers. I also decided to install 2 speakers at this time in the rear without any speakers in the front. This type of set up is all I ever had in the bug, so I stuck with it. I cut the plywood to size and then painted it grey to match the interior a little better.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is how the plywood would fit in the rear luggage area.
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I ordered 6x9 speaker boxes. The external speaker connection was included along with some sound material in the box. I had to make a small hole in the material to access the wire connections that have to be made inside the boxes.

Here are the boxes.
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The speakers came with speaker wire to connect to the speaker and the speaker box.
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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Once the speaker wires were hooked up, I centered the speaker and secured it with the screws that were provided.
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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I wanted to mount the amp in between the 2 speakers with all parts resting on the plywood that I cut to size and painted. Here is the amp. I placed the amp where all of the power connections would be closer to the rear seat and mounted the amp with the screws provided with the amp.
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Here is how everything should look once installed in the luggage area.
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That completes all the tasks needed to prepare for the wiring. My next update will cover the wiring and other things I did to finish the install. Thanks.
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 5:15 am    Post subject: Re: 1968 Type 1 - My First Resto Reply with quote

You provided a perfect guide for window/door re-assembly which are my next steps to complete. Really well done, big thanks.
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Cage44
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 9:42 pm    Post subject: Re: 1968 Type 1 - My First Resto Reply with quote

@TX-73 - Thanks. I am glad it will help you out!

UPDATE: Stereo install – Part 2. Stereo, Amp, Speaker Wiring.

With the Head Unit installed and the Amp and speakers installed in the luggage area, time for wiring.

I took a long time just thinking about the wiring, how I was going to run the necessary wires from the front to the rear, what was needed for the amp and other connections before I even hooked up a wire. Once I had a good plan of attack, then I proceeded. Here are the steps I followed.
Here is a shot of the wiring harness that came with the head unit.

I thought I might need some extra length, so I also purchased white 14 and 18 gauge wire. I chose white since almost all of the wiring in the trunk is a color other than white. Also, after mapping everything out, it looked like only one of the wires needed to be extended and the connection needed was also to a white wire, so it just made sense to me. No rhyme or reason other than that. Here is a photo of the wiring harness and the extra white wire:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I think the wire color and their purpose should be universal among all head units sold in the US. It has been 20+ years since I installed any stereo stuff, but it just makes sense. I was going to use the pre-amp output from the head unit using RCA cables so I knew I would not use the speaker wires. I tied the speaker wires together just to get them out of the way.

That left the following wires:
Yellow (Solid) – Constant power connection needed – memory and other items the head unit needs.
Black (Solid) – ground
Orange (Solid) – illumination wire – should only receive power when the car lights are on.
Blue (White stripe) – remote turn on – used for the amplifier - connects to amp
Red (Solid) – Ignition – power the head unit when the key is turned on – accessory position.

The most important tool for this is a multimeter of some kind to determine where to connect the wires that need power – either constantly or when the key is turned on. Here is the meter I purchased when I installed the main wiring harness which was worth every penny. I also made notes in my build notebook of the stereo wires, what they are used for and my notes as to where I was going to connect everything. I used this as a road map so I knew what I was going to do before I started.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Working in the trunk, and looking at the fuse block, I used the multimeter to see which fuse had a constant 12 volts on both sides of the fuse WITHOUT the ignition turned on. Wiring diagrams showed that the fuse on the far left (again facing the fuse block from inside the trunk) was for the radio. That fuse did not have any connections to it – see below.
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Both the top and bottom registered 12 volts so I knew I could use that for the Yellow wire which needed constant power. I worked my way across the block to see if any other fuses had a constant 12 volts just to make sure. I used the one designed for the radio. Next was to find a fuse that would receive power once the ignition (key) was turned on. Working my way over, the second from the right would receive 12 volts when the key was turned on and did NOT register anything when the key was turned off. I decided to use that one for the Red wire which would turn the stereo on once the key is turned. It is the green wire on the fuse block pictured below.

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I scouted the rest of the wire connections then proceeded to wire everything up. First step, was to disconnect the battery now that I identified where the wires would connect.

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Next, I decided to start with the wires that would go from the stereo to the rear luggage area where the amp was installed. The 2 RCA cables and the blue (with white stripe) wire, which turns on the amp, had to run from the stereo to the amp. There was a hole that was previously drilled for this purpose. I did have to make it a tad larger so the RCA connection on the cable could fit through.

As a side note, this is where I realized I should have installed the stereo WAY BEFORE I installed the carpet, rear, seat, etc. I was not sure if I was going to install a stereo, but it was a high probability. Doing it now did not cause any harm, it just took longer to install since a lot more prep and removal of items had to be done which was a step backward instead of forward.

Here is a shot of the RCA cables and the blue wire exiting the trunk.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


From inside the trunk I had to use a small screwdriver in the drilled hole to separate the carpet from the firewall to provide enough space to run the wires behind the carpet. I did not want any exposed wires. Here is a shot of the drilled hole, and the wires run behind the carpet. You cannot tell any wires were run.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I ran the wires behind the passenger side kick panel, down the passenger side of the car as close to the center tunnel as possible, then under the rear kick panels and into the battery compartment area. The wires were then run under the rear seat to the rear luggage area. I made sure I had enough play in the RCA cables and the blue wire to make sure I could use my wiring cover in the trunk later. Once I felt I had enough play, I started using zip ties to keep the wires together, then used black gorilla tape along the wire run and secured the wires along the center tunnel.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Now for the amplifier. The amp will receive the RCA cables and blue wire from the head unit. The amp also needs power and a ground as well. I purchased a wiring kit which had heavy gauge wire and an in-line fuse to connect everything. The wires also have end connectors which fit over the battery connection bolts which made things easy. Here is the kit.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The wire length in the kit provides way more wire than needed for our bugs, especially if the amp is in the rear of the car. I ran the wires from the amp to the battery to determine needed length, the cut the wires as needed. This may be overkill, but once I cut the wires, I soldered the copper ends of the wires. I used 2 block as a pair of “helping hands” to solder the ends.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I then connected the RCA cables, blue remote wire, power wire and ground to the amp. I then zip tied them together then ran them under the rear seat to the battery.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


So I can work my way rear to front, I then cut speaker wires to length, soldered the ends, then hooked up the speaker boxes.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I then moved to the front stereo wiring before I connected everything to the car battery.

I added connectors to the stereo wiring harness for the black, yellow and red wires. I added white wire to the orange wire to add length. Since I knew the black wire would be used with a screw, I used a round connector.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


With all of the connectors added, I hooked up the harness to the stereo then began wiring everything up. I started with the yellow wire. Here is a shot of the connection:

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I then hooked up the black ground wire to a screw that is screwed into the metal bracket that holds the wiper motor. There was already a ground wire there, so I just added the extra wire then screwed it in. Hard to see in picture, but it is the black wire that is above the stereo and behind the stereo metal holder strip.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


That left the red wire and the orange wire (with the extra wire added on). These wires had to be added to other wires that were already connected. When I gutted the car, I kept most of my parts. I was happy that I kept the connector splitter that was used with the old wiring – I had 2 which I needed. Here is a picture.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I cleaned them up to ensure a good connection. Here is a before and after of one of the connectors.

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Using the splitter, I connected the red wire (ignition) to the fuse block.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


That left the orange (with white wire addition) wire for illumination. I connected that wire to one of the lights for the speedometer. I unplugged the bulb connector, attached the splitter, then connected the wires.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The blue remote turn on wire from the wiring harness connected to the amp which was already pictured. Now that everything was wired up, I moved back to the battery to hook up the red wire from the amp to the positive battery terminal and the ground wire from the amp to the negative battery terminal. The negative battery terminal has a wire that goes to ground, so it was easy just to hook up the black wire to the battery. Once power was restored I turned the key and the stereo turned on with no sparks, no smoke, no flashes…pure relief. I re-installed the rear the battery terminal cover, the rest of the interior pieces then tested everything out.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is the stereo turned on and working.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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