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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51057 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2016 7:30 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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a-marshal wrote: |
.. is there a (good) reason why someone might want extra marks on the fan near the timing mark? |
No. Get yourself a timing scale and read this if you haven't already: http://www.ratwell.com/technical/FindTimingMark.html
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Question Two or (maybe 1b) .. for how many degrees of the cams rotation are the followers/push-rods/rockers unloaded? With the mark off the expected 180 degrees cylinders 2 and 4 would not necessarily have had the proper clearances but to my admittedly inexpert touch the gap stays constant for all the marks. |
~20 degrees of crank rotation each way, close is good enough.
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Finally I lost one of my heater control boxes on the last road trip... since I've never hooked them up and didn't ever intend to do I need to care very much? |
Aside from the heat exchanger filling up with sand and gravel kicked up by the tire, no...., but don't cap it off it needs to vent. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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beatles4 Samba Member
Joined: January 26, 2014 Posts: 400 Location: Miami
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Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2016 7:55 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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When you say don't cap it off, it needs to vent. Do you mean those two large pipes that run under the bus and go up to the dash and floors? i thought you need to cap those off if not running heat exchangers because exhaust gases can make their way through them and into the car.
Also the previous owner of my bus marked a letter H and 180 degrees oppose of it marked an I on my crank pulley. I haven't examined closely where the stock pulley mark is suppose to be. _________________ Click to view image
http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-27771.png |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50260
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Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2016 9:56 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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You need flow through the heat exchangers at all time, where the air is going forward into the cab or just being shunted to the outside through the flapper valve. If your accordion tubes have been removed or if there are big gaping holes in the heater pipes then do seal off the pipes going into the cab as they make an entryway from mice.
Tin cans clamped over the back ends of the pipes work as does cramming aluminium foil into the pipes. |
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sdalcher Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2015 Posts: 35
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Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2016 11:19 am Post subject: CHT question |
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Ok, so now I'm questioning just how hot my engine is running. After changing the oil to 15W50 synthetic, the oil temp is still registering high, but the engine is not smelling hot. So I'm questioning my dip stick oil temp device and just how accurate. Thinking that I would really like to add a CHT and maybe a sump mounted oil temp unit. Where is the best place to purchase? I found CIP but the CHT was almost $200... I'm not opposed to spending that kind of money if needed, but it seems a little on the high side. So please share your experiences and cost if you would.
Many thanks! |
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1967250s Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2007 Posts: 2137
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Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2016 11:23 am Post subject: Re: CHT question |
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sdalcher wrote: |
Ok, so now I'm questioning just how hot my engine is running. After changing the oil to 15W50 synthetic, the oil temp is still registering high, but the engine is not smelling hot. So I'm questioning my dip stick oil temp device and just how accurate. Thinking that I would really like to add a CHT and maybe a sump mounted oil temp unit. Where is the best place to purchase? I found CIP but the CHT was almost $200... I'm not opposed to spending that kind of money if needed, but it seems a little on the high side. So please share your experiences and cost if you would.
Many thanks! |
Hey, great looking Bus. Can you post a good close(several) up of the engine? Do you have a black plug on top center of the fan housing? If you do, use a timing light into there to time the engine. I had a similar over heating problem, turned out timing was too retarded. I would also recommend using 10w40 for summer, 10 w 30 for winter. I use Castrol. Too thick, and not enough oil goes to cooler. Make sure the flaps in the fan house work, lever should spring upright in failsafe if thermostat fails. _________________ '72 Elm Green Deluxe |
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Sawspa Samba Member
Joined: May 12, 2012 Posts: 173 Location: South-East Ohio
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Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2016 1:16 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Hello, i have a valve question. I have a 1978 2.0L hydraulic valve ge code engine. I adjusted the valves to .006 per bently and found the noise to be rediculous. Then I read Collins Page and adjusted them 1.5 turns in. It seemed to work pretty good. BUT, i now can only get #3 to 55 pounds compression. Im pretty sure the spring in the lifter isnt broke and there isnt any chatter in the valve train. Could I have burnt a valve out with it adjusted to .006 ? I drove it for about three or four hours that way. What test do i need to do before i remove the head? _________________ 1978 Westfalia Campmobile 2.0L oversized ham heads and a stepped up cam, running points and a 76 exhaust "Lefty Loosy" |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51057 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2016 1:31 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Sawspa wrote: |
Hello, i have a valve question. I have a 1978 2.0L hydraulic valve ge code engine. I adjusted the valves to .006 per bently and found the noise to be rediculous. Then I read Collins Page and adjusted them 1.5 turns in. It seemed to work pretty good. BUT, i now can only get #3 to 55 pounds compression. Im pretty sure the spring in the lifter isnt broke and there isnt any chatter in the valve train. Could I have burnt a valve out with it adjusted to .006 ? I drove it for about three or four hours that way. What test do i need to do before i remove the head? |
Adjusting hydros to .006 usually doesn't cuase many probles aside from the noise, running it a long time like that can pound out the circlips in the lifters but if the pushrod wasn't removed after running it like that the lifter will still stay together even without the clip.
Low compression is more likely a failing valve seat, the bad rocker adjustment may have exposed something that was already happening but it's probably unrelated and you've just noticed it now.
Remove the rockers an that head and place a straightedge across all the valve tips, are any lower ot higher that the rest? When reinstalling the rockers be careful torquing the hold down nuts, 9 'lbs IIRC. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50260
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Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2016 5:31 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Sawspa wrote: |
Hello, i have a valve question. I have a 1978 2.0L hydraulic valve ge code engine. I adjusted the valves to .006 per bently and found the noise to be rediculous. Then I read Collins Page and adjusted them 1.5 turns in. It seemed to work pretty good. BUT, i now can only get #3 to 55 pounds compression. Im pretty sure the spring in the lifter isnt broke and there isnt any chatter in the valve train. Could I have burnt a valve out with it adjusted to .006 ? I drove it for about three or four hours that way. What test do i need to do before i remove the head? |
Give the lifter time to self adjust. Even once it has been run a long time it may not have full compression once it has been shut down repeatedly while you do the test.
Hydraulic lifter tend to like thin clean oil, I highly recommend something like a 5w30 "high milage" synthetic or a 5w40 "Diesel" synthetic. Adding some Marvel Mystery Oil to you old oil for several hundred miles before you drain it helps as well. |
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Sawspa Samba Member
Joined: May 12, 2012 Posts: 173 Location: South-East Ohio
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Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2016 7:41 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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busdaddy wrote: |
Sawspa wrote: |
Hello, i have a valve question. I have a 1978 2.0L hydraulic valve ge code engine. I adjusted the valves to .006 per bently and found the noise to be rediculous. Then I read Collins Page and adjusted them 1.5 turns in. It seemed to work pretty good. BUT, i now can only get #3 to 55 pounds compression. Im pretty sure the spring in the lifter isnt broke and there isnt any chatter in the valve train. Could I have burnt a valve out with it adjusted to .006 ? I drove it for about three or four hours that way. What test do i need to do before i remove the head? |
Adjusting hydros to .006 usually doesn't cuase many probles aside from the noise, running it a long time like that can pound out the circlips in the lifters but if the pushrod wasn't removed after running it like that the lifter will still stay together even without the clip.
Low compression is more likely a failing valve seat, the bad rocker adjustment may have exposed something that was already happening but it's probably unrelated and you've just noticed it now.
Remove the rockers an that head and place a straightedge across all the valve tips, are any lower ot higher that the rest? When reinstalling the rockers be careful torquing the hold down nuts, 9 'lbs IIRC. |
I can hear air coming thru the exhaust and the intake. I had the heads rebuilt last winter. My exhaust is not conventional. each header runs to a glass pack and straight out the rear of the bus. Could that be heating up the valves? Tonight im going to back outvthe adjusting screw on the rocker to make sure the valves are closed and put air to it again. I am running a 10w-40 oil. If i still hear air i will remove the valve rails and put a straight edge on it to see any unevenness. I will pay attention to the 9 foot/pounds when reinstalling them. Not sure if ive screwed up by not adjusting the valves right or it was a bad head rebuild. Im scared i might have another problem that is burning the valves. _________________ 1978 Westfalia Campmobile 2.0L oversized ham heads and a stepped up cam, running points and a 76 exhaust "Lefty Loosy" |
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dlxkey Samba Member
Joined: November 09, 2010 Posts: 34 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2016 10:00 am Post subject: Re: CHT question |
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sdalcher wrote: |
Ok, so now I'm questioning just how hot my engine is running. After changing the oil to 15W50 synthetic, the oil temp is still registering high, but the engine is not smelling hot. So I'm questioning my dip stick oil temp device and just how accurate. Thinking that I would really like to add a CHT and maybe a sump mounted oil temp unit. Where is the best place to purchase? I found CIP but the CHT was almost $200... I'm not opposed to spending that kind of money if needed, but it seems a little on the high side. So please share your experiences and cost if you would.
Many thanks! |
I bought the Dakota Digital 2 1/4" gauge ($125) and 18' sensor ($14) based on Ratwell's recommendation and it IS fantastic:
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=...prd347.htm
Ratwell's Samba post:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=691206 |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51057 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2016 10:10 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Sawspa wrote: |
busdaddy wrote: |
Sawspa wrote: |
Hello, i have a valve question. I have a 1978 2.0L hydraulic valve ge code engine. I adjusted the valves to .006 per bently and found the noise to be rediculous. Then I read Collins Page and adjusted them 1.5 turns in. It seemed to work pretty good. BUT, i now can only get #3 to 55 pounds compression. Im pretty sure the spring in the lifter isnt broke and there isnt any chatter in the valve train. Could I have burnt a valve out with it adjusted to .006 ? I drove it for about three or four hours that way. What test do i need to do before i remove the head? |
Adjusting hydros to .006 usually doesn't cuase many probles aside from the noise, running it a long time like that can pound out the circlips in the lifters but if the pushrod wasn't removed after running it like that the lifter will still stay together even without the clip.
Low compression is more likely a failing valve seat, the bad rocker adjustment may have exposed something that was already happening but it's probably unrelated and you've just noticed it now.
Remove the rockers an that head and place a straightedge across all the valve tips, are any lower ot higher that the rest? When reinstalling the rockers be careful torquing the hold down nuts, 9 'lbs IIRC. |
I can hear air coming thru the exhaust and the intake. I had the heads rebuilt last winter. My exhaust is not conventional. each header runs to a glass pack and straight out the rear of the bus. Could that be heating up the valves? Tonight im going to back outvthe adjusting screw on the rocker to make sure the valves are closed and put air to it again. I am running a 10w-40 oil. If i still hear air i will remove the valve rails and put a straight edge on it to see any unevenness. I will pay attention to the 9 foot/pounds when reinstalling them. Not sure if ive screwed up by not adjusting the valves right or it was a bad head rebuild. Im scared i might have another problem that is burning the valves. |
As WT's says it may take a little while for good lifters to bleed down after having been set that loose so give them a chance, set it up on TDC for that cylinder and see if either adjuster is still compressing a valve. Another small possibilty is bent valves from the lifters staying pumped up, rare but not impossible. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2016 11:09 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Sawspa , the distributor rotor should be pointing to the spark plug wire for the cylinder that you are testing and the timing mark should be on zero.
Good luck
Tcash |
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Sawspa Samba Member
Joined: May 12, 2012 Posts: 173 Location: South-East Ohio
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Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2016 1:09 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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So i backed the adjuster screw out till there is no contact on the valve stem, and it still is showing 60% loss. How much air pressure should i be doing this test with? I put the motor on tdc for 1 cylinder and show 30% loss and i can hear air coming out of the 3/4 bank with the valve cover off. Should this be happening? I am putting the cylinder at tdc by doing what tcash said. I am unable to press the pushrod in to see if the lifter is working. When i turn the adjusting screw it compresses the valve and not the lifter. Did the over pumped lifter make my valves open too much and couldve burnt all of them???? _________________ 1978 Westfalia Campmobile 2.0L oversized ham heads and a stepped up cam, running points and a 76 exhaust "Lefty Loosy" |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51057 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2016 2:17 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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You have to have the cylinder you are testing at TDC for that cylinder (both valves closed), you can tap the adjuster screws with a plastic hammer or wooden dowel and hammer to bounce them on thier seats while applying air pressure to make sure it's not just a piece of carbon stuck between the valve and seat (do check that the pushrod is still seated in the cup on the end of the rocker after).
Good lifters shouldn't compress but will (should) self adjust when running, the only time they are squishy is when there is air in them.
Not sure why you hear air coming from the opposite sides pushrod tubes, your loss could be through the rings, what's the breather sound like? _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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Sawspa Samba Member
Joined: May 12, 2012 Posts: 173 Location: South-East Ohio
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Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2016 2:28 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Cyl#1 - tdc, i backed the adjuster screws on intake and the exhaust all the way out to "no contact". Showed 60% lossAll of the air seemed to be escaping thru pushrod tubes. No air from the air cleaner or exhaust. The pushrod tubes had a pretty good whistle.
Cyl#3 - tdc. Backed adjusters clear out. 60% loss, air was heard in the intake and exhaust, some in the oil cap, but not really any noise heard in the pushrod tubes.
Two seperate problems? Rings and valves? How much am i looking at for a rebuild if i remove the engine and take it to a vw shop? _________________ 1978 Westfalia Campmobile 2.0L oversized ham heads and a stepped up cam, running points and a 76 exhaust "Lefty Loosy" |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51057 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2016 2:40 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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No idea on costs, there's been a few outsourced rebuild recommendation threads lately, maybe Tcash can find them. If it's not leaking out the intake or exhaust the rings are the only route left. How's the oil pressure and endplay on this engine?, any idea how many miles it's got on it? You can do pistons and cylinders at home, all depends on how much time you have and if you can follow instructions. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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Sawspa Samba Member
Joined: May 12, 2012 Posts: 173 Location: South-East Ohio
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Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2016 2:54 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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busdaddy wrote: |
No idea on costs, there's been a few outsourced rebuild recommendation threads lately, maybe Tcash can find them. If it's not leaking out the intake or exhaust the rings are the only route left. How's the oil pressure and endplay on this engine?, any idea how many miles it's got on it? You can do pistons and cylinders at home, all depends on how much time you have and if you can follow instructions. |
No idea on oil pressure and end play. I put pistons ,rings and had the heads redone this last winter. Thats why im frustrated! I accept that i screwed up the valve timing and possibly burnt the valves, but the rings too! Shouldnt some air get past the rings? It doesnt smoke or have blow-by. _________________ 1978 Westfalia Campmobile 2.0L oversized ham heads and a stepped up cam, running points and a 76 exhaust "Lefty Loosy" |
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williamM Samba Member
Joined: August 07, 2008 Posts: 4333 Location: southwest Arizona
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Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2016 2:57 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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try a "wet" leak down- if the numbers get better and then back to 60- you have bad rings- if it stays the same you have valve issues. _________________ some days I get up and just sit and think. Some days I just sit.
opinion untempered by fact is ignorance.
Don't step in any! |
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sdalcher Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2015 Posts: 35
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Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2016 8:11 am Post subject: Re: CHT question |
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dlxkey wrote: |
sdalcher wrote: |
Ok, so now I'm questioning just how hot my engine is running. After changing the oil to 15W50 synthetic, the oil temp is still registering high, but the engine is not smelling hot. So I'm questioning my dip stick oil temp device and just how accurate. Thinking that I would really like to add a CHT and maybe a sump mounted oil temp unit. Where is the best place to purchase? I found CIP but the CHT was almost $200... I'm not opposed to spending that kind of money if needed, but it seems a little on the high side. So please share your experiences and cost if you would.
Many thanks! |
I bought the Dakota Digital 2 1/4" gauge ($125) and 18' sensor ($14) based on Ratwell's recommendation and it IS fantastic:
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=...prd347.htm
Thanks! I ordered one.
Ratwell's Samba post:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=691206 |
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lil-jinx Samba Member
Joined: August 14, 2013 Posts: 1109 Location: New Brunswick,Canada
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