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wcfvw69 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2016 12:55 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

beatles4 wrote:
khalimadeath wrote:
I need a rebuild kit for one of those pumps too. I have that same pump on my 1970 Westfalia 1600 SP.


Thank you TCash, those were all the links I found last night. I also contacted Wolfsburg West inquiring about their rebuild kit. A lot of people on this forum seemed to think that what they sold was chinese junk (which it probably was for the generic 2 barb style fuel pump) but according to WW the 40hp style pump uses a rebuild kit from Brazil for whatever that is worth to you.

I am placing my order now and am hoping to have a leak free fuel pump this weekend.

@ khalimadeath

I will keep you posted as to how the rebuild goes and my opinion of the WW rebuild kit.


Beatles, take some pictures of the kit when it arrives from Wolfsburg West. It would be interesting to see who made it.

Things you need to check include-

Spring pressure on the diaphragm. You can pop off the plastic retainer to get the spring off the diaphragm assembly. Is the spring the same thickness as yours? Is it the same height?

The length of the diaphragm assembly when assembled. Is it the same length as the old one that you removed?

Let us know.
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beatles4
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2016 1:07 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Will do. I am also looking to see if my FLAP has a fuel pressure gauge so that I can check that is is outputting about 3-4 psi.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2016 1:07 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2016 1:14 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

beatles4 wrote:
Will do. I am also looking to see if my FLAP has a fuel pressure gauge so that I can check that is is outputting about 3-4 psi.


That's a must as well. If the length of the diaphragm assembly is the same as the original and the spring tension is close, it will be interesting to see what it puts out PSI wise. If you find the spring is stiffer in the new one, you can swap it out and put the old spring on the new diaphragm assembly if the diaphragm assembly is the same length.

The other POS kit Wolfsburg West sold for the square top Pierburg pumps had thicker spring diameters and the diaphragms were shorter. These issues equated to a HIGH psi output. Most of the time, folks couldn't even reassemble their pumps because of the points mentioned above.

The other thing to keep in mind. The hard parts (springs, pins, rocker) in your original pump will probably be ok. They are MUCH better quality than anything sold today. I've rebuilt a lot of the square top Pierburg pumps. I've never seen anything close to wear on those parts. The last two square top pumps I rebuilt using NOS kits put out 2.8psi and 3psi. That was with only the fuel pump gasket under the pump.

Edit- make sure you surface the top of the pump and it's cover so it's dead flat. Also, make sure you pre-load the pump diaphragm before installing and tightening down the top of the pump on the body. If you search rebuilding fuel pumps, you'll find some threads that discuss it in detail.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2016 1:30 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

beatles4 wrote:
Will do. I am also looking to see if my FLAP has a fuel pressure gauge so that I can check that is is outputting about 3-4 psi.


Get a combination vacuum/ fuel pressure gauge.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2016 8:14 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I would love some advice on the best way to utilize the ice box in my 71 westy camper. It has the original unit with sink, sink cover, ice box, side flip up shelf, and storage above ice box.

Please don't tell me how they are crap and should be replaced.

How would one use dry ice effectively.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2016 9:27 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

stoneboys3 wrote:
I would love some advice on the best way to utilize the ice box in my 71 westy camper.

How would one use dry ice effectively.

Add insulation. I ripped out the fridge in my '78 and bought a 40L Igloo cooler. If I'd had an ice box and not a fridge, I would have just modified it as I did the cooler, but the cooling fins and electronics wasted too much space.

In the Igloo, I added a liner made out of that silver bubble wrap with two layers on the top flap, plus stuffed it into the lid, and added a foam insert that fits snug in the top.

Now it keeps ice as long as the Yeti cooler I tested it against, total cost $60, $40 of which was the cooler, and had enough left-over bubble wrap to make sun screens for all the windows in my bus.

Dry ice will freeze everything in your cooler. If you just want your stuff to stay cold, stick to blocks of ice. Freeze water in 2L juice jugs. Make sure you give them a week or two in the deep freeze to really get down to temperature -- after water freezes, it will keep cooling down to match the surroundings; in reverse, it will have to warm up to the melting point before it melts, so the colder it is to start, the longer it takes to melt.

Pre-cool your ice box the night before your trip with a sacrificial bag or block of ice. Make sure every single thing that goes in your ice box is as cold as it can be -- never use your cooler to cool room-temperature foods!! Freeze what you can.

It should go without saying, but practice proper ice box etiquette to minimise heat exposure. Know what you're getting and where it is before you open it, and open it up as little as possible (i.e. take all the food for dinner out at once, prepare it as quickly as possible, then put it all back, rather than opening it 5 times). Fill it as full as possible to minimise air flow (unlike a fridge, air flow in a cooler is the enemy). For extended trips, replace ice before the old ice melts so you don't have to re-cool the food. If you do have to re-cool the food, expect to sacrifice one block of ice for that and then get another to keep it cool.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2016 9:50 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

stoneboys3 wrote:
I would love some advice on the best way to utilize the ice box in my 71 westy camper. It has the original unit with sink, sink cover, ice box, side flip up shelf, and storage above ice box.

Please don't tell me how they are crap and should be replaced.

How would one use dry ice effectively.
[/img]

Dry ice is a bit much, I find block ice very effective, or if you don't like the dribbles then frozen water bottles work well too and can be drank later. Precooling it the day before the trip as well as everything you plan to store also makes a big difference, don't stand there with the door open either.
A block lasts me a weekend.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2016 10:04 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

They are crap and should be replaced.








Laughing Laughing



Just check it for cracks and make sure the plastic isn't rotted. Should be able to put dry ice in there. I would pull it out and check the insulation on the other side and possibly replace or improve it with some modern reflectix or something.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2016 10:18 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

With the usage of a block of ice (ice box) or the frozen 2L method (fridge that doesn’t work, HEY thats me!) how long does the unit stay cold enough for meats, produce, things of that nature??
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2016 10:30 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

SamboSamba22 wrote:
With the usage of a block of ice (ice box) or the frozen 2L method (fridge that doesn’t work, HEY thats me!) how long does the unit stay cold enough for meats, produce, things of that nature??


"the unit" being the fridge? Problem with using that as an ice box is the cooling fins. Unplugged, they would conduct heat in the wrong direction. If you're going to leave the fridge in place, I would cut the fins off and plug the hole with foam. Then you can remove the electrical components and free up some storage space. But I just took the whole fridge out and put a big plastic container in there which I use as a pantry. Another nice thing about a removable cooler is that you can put it in the shade of the bus when you can't find enough shade to keep the bus itself cool.

busdaddy said the block of ice in his ice box lasts a weekend.

When I still ate meat, I always used to freeze it for camping trips. Much less risk of it going bad, and it keeps other foods colder longer.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2016 1:14 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

what would you guys do? Bought a 71 westfalia not running, charged the battery and started it up ..sounded good ran good no smoke only issue was aftermarket (Weber 32/36) carb was leaking gas down the motor. Heard not so good things about this carb (junk pos) I then pulled the motor to clean it up and can't decide to buy a rebuild kit or buy a German Solex trying to keep costs down as many other parts to buy to make it road trip worthy.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2016 1:36 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

hoagy86 wrote:
what would you guys do? Bought a 71 westfalia not running, charged the battery and started it up ..sounded good ran good no smoke only issue was aftermarket (Weber 32/36) carb was leaking gas down the motor. Heard not so good things about this carb (junk pos) I then pulled the motor to clean it up and can't decide to buy a rebuild kit or buy a German Solex trying to keep costs down as many other parts to buy to make it road trip worthy.


For what it is worth, I bought a rebuilt carb from Volkzbitz and I am very happy with both the way it looks and performs. I think I paid $230 for it with the fuel barb threaded and tapped. I went with a 30 pict 1 for my 69 1600 singleport. So far so good.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2016 1:58 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

hoagy86 wrote:
what would you guys do? Bought a 71 westfalia not running, charged the battery and started it up ..sounded good ran good no smoke only issue was aftermarket (Weber 32/36) carb was leaking gas down the motor. Heard not so good things about this carb (junk pos) I then pulled the motor to clean it up and can't decide to buy a rebuild kit or buy a German Solex trying to keep costs down as many other parts to buy to make it road trip worthy.


Properly adjusted the 32/36 Weber will work well on a Type 1 engine. There is a good thread in the performance section on how to set up a 32/36 Weber correctly. I think it was started by aircooled.net, IIRC. You certainly need to make sure the intake manifold heat is working or your performance will be poor.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2016 2:01 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
stoneboys3 wrote:
I would love some advice on the best way to utilize the ice box in my 71 westy camper. It has the original unit with sink, sink cover, ice box, side flip up shelf, and storage above ice box.

Please don't tell me how they are crap and should be replaced.

How would one use dry ice effectively.
[/img]

Precooling it the day before the trip as well as everything you plan to store also makes a big difference.


Another big vote for Precooling! I fill mine with frozen water bottles at least 24 hours before a trip. Another tip is to keep it packed with cold things, any space for air invites warm air in every time you open the door. (even an empty sealed water bottle is better than just air).

The milk and eggs are fine on day four ... the beer already ran out on day three anyway.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2016 2:36 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Salt water freezes at a lower temperature than tap water so having bottles filled with salt water will lower the temperature of your cooler to below 32°F. You don't want any of the salt water leaking onto the floor of you rig though, so used with care.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2016 4:20 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Page 5
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GD
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2016 5:35 pm    Post subject: help with warm air blower Reply with quote

Ok, so putting all the original stuff back on my 74 Sportmobile. Just picked up a warm air blower and trying to get it wired up. Bentley book has me a little confused at this point. So there are two switches listed E9 which is labeled as Fresh air fan motor switch... There is also E16 Heater blower switch.... I'm thinking that E16 is what I'm looking for. Can anyone tell me the difference? Then looking at V2 fan motor vs V4 heater air blower.

So I'm thinking that I'm looking for E16 and V4, so the wire feeding power to the warm air blower would be brown with a white stripe????

Any help?
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2016 5:49 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

For anyone who is looking to rehab the blower motor for the warm air blower just drop me a PM and I'll walk you through it. It only takes about 20 minutes. I bought a used blower and upon arrival it would barely turn by hand. Disassembled, cleaned and lubricated and it now spins freely. My first clue was when it arrived with a 30 amp fuse wired in line, quick check and it would barely spin. Wired it up direct and she spins just like the day it was made.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2016 5:59 pm    Post subject: Re: help with warm air blower Reply with quote

sdalcher wrote:
Ok, so putting all the original stuff back on my 74 Sportmobile. Just picked up a warm air blower and trying to get it wired up. Bentley book has me a little confused at this point. So there are two switches listed E9 which is labeled as Fresh air fan motor switch... There is also E16 Heater blower switch.... I'm thinking that E16 is what I'm looking for. Can anyone tell me the difference? Then looking at V2 fan motor vs V4 heater air blower.

So I'm thinking that I'm looking for E16 and V4, so the wire feeding power to the warm air blower would be brown with a white stripe????

Any help?

The brown/wite is a switched ground, the relay is energised by the blue charge light wire when the engine is running and closes when you move the red lever down and ground the trigger wire.
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