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AircooledHome Samba Member
Joined: October 13, 2015 Posts: 273 Location: California
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Posted: Fri May 13, 2016 2:41 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Hello friends
I have been dealing with a stupid brake issue and it's baffling me at this point..
I have replaced everything in the brake system, and with both my old and new master cylinder, when I try to bleed the brakes after I'm done when I release the brakes and then press again, the peddle does all the way to the floor and has no pressure. After pumping, pressure is regained. Everytime I need to brake I have to pump.
I just sat here for 2 hrs bleeding the master, then all the brakes in order and no improvement.
When I tried adjusting the push rod further into the master cylinder, instead of leaving play as the manuals suggest, so the cylinder is "always slightly engaged" the problem is gone. Any ideas?
Thanks
Emilio
1969 bus |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51146 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Fri May 13, 2016 2:49 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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ThisMetalMess wrote: |
Hello friends
I have been dealing with a stupid brake issue and it's baffling me at this point..
I have replaced everything in the brake system, and with both my old and new master cylinder, when I try to bleed the brakes after I'm done when I release the brakes and then press again, the peddle does all the way to the floor and has no pressure. After pumping, pressure is regained. Everytime I need to brake I have to pump.
I just sat here for 2 hrs bleeding the master, then all the brakes in order and no improvement.
When I tried adjusting the push rod further into the master cylinder, instead of leaving play as the manuals suggest, so the cylinder is "always slightly engaged" the problem is gone. Any ideas?
Thanks
Emilio
1969 bus |
Explain to us how you adjusted the brakes and parking brake cables after installing all this new stuff please.
Adjusting the freeplay out of the pushrod is not the correct fix and will lead to trouble soon. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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AircooledHome Samba Member
Joined: October 13, 2015 Posts: 273 Location: California
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Posted: Fri May 13, 2016 2:56 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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busdaddy wrote: |
ThisMetalMess wrote: |
Hello friends
I have been dealing with a stupid brake issue and it's baffling me at this point..
I have replaced everything in the brake system, and with both my old and new master cylinder, when I try to bleed the brakes after I'm done when I release the brakes and then press again, the peddle does all the way to the floor and has no pressure. After pumping, pressure is regained. Everytime I need to brake I have to pump.
I just sat here for 2 hrs bleeding the master, then all the brakes in order and no improvement.
When I tried adjusting the push rod further into the master cylinder, instead of leaving play as the manuals suggest, so the cylinder is "always slightly engaged" the problem is gone. Any ideas?
Thanks
Emilio
1969 bus |
Explain to us how you adjusted the brakes and parking brake cables after installing all this new stuff please.
Adjusting the freeplay out of the pushrod is not the correct fix and will lead to trouble soon. |
I adjusted all my brakes so that they were almost about to rub but weren't engaged.
One of my parking brake cables doesn't work I think it's stretched out too far. The other one is new and it kinda works but it's poorly adjusted. |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51146 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Fri May 13, 2016 3:10 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Back off both parking brake cables so they are drooping, then adjust the star wheels equal clicks from bottomed out until they won't turn anymore (long past where the wheel stops turning), then back them off until the wheel just turns with a tiny drag. after that's all done set the brake cables so it starts to drag at 3 clicks of the handle. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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jaimer Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013 Posts: 52 Location: Revelstoke
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Posted: Sat May 14, 2016 6:04 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Dumb Question.
I just installed a new electric fuel pump. It seems to run fine, but gas is not pulling through. Could orientation of the fuel pump effect its pumping, I didn`t think so. Or is there something plugging one of the lines?
This is the pump I bought. http://store.concept1.ca/Fuel-Pump-Electric-Low-PSI-PTZ-5536/
Any guess would be appreciated. |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51146 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sat May 14, 2016 6:09 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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jaimer wrote: |
Dumb Question.
I just installed a new electric fuel pump. It seems to run fine, but gas is not pulling through. Could orientation of the fuel pump effect its pumping, I didn`t think so. Or is there something plugging one of the lines?
This is the pump I bought. http://store.concept1.ca/Fuel-Pump-Electric-Low-PSI-PTZ-5536/
Any guess would be appreciated. |
Those pumps won't lift fuel through a dry line, you'll either have to prime it by pulling fuel through it with a syringe, or relocate it below the tank outlet. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Posted: Sat May 14, 2016 6:16 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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jaimer wrote: |
Dumb Question.
Could orientation of the fuel pump effect its pumping,
Yes it could. Look for an arrow. The arrow should point toward the engine.
Also notice there is a + & - on the pump. The + is the positive hot wire and the - is the negative ground earth wire.
Or is there something plugging one of the lines?
This is possible. T2's are gravity feed. So when you pulled the hose from the gas tank off the old pump, you should have got a bath in fuel. If little or none came out you have a plugged fuel tank.
This is the pump I bought. http://store.concept1.ca/Fuel-Pump-Electric-Low-PSI-PTZ-5536/
Any guess would be appreciated. |
Good luck
Tcash |
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jaimer Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013 Posts: 52 Location: Revelstoke
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Posted: Sat May 14, 2016 6:33 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Thanks for the quick replies guys.
Tcash - I did double check that the pump is flowing the proper direction. I meant orientation, more for if it were on its side or vertical.
Busdaddy - This sounds like it may be the issue. The pump is running strange waaa wooo waaa woo. I can see fuel being pulled through the filter...slowly. it is mounted below the tank outlet though, so should gravity feed to the pump.
I just finished cleaning the tank out, and redoing all the vapour lines. Fuel lines were done previously. The tank is close to empty, could adding more fuel help with pressure? I didn`t want to add to much incase I needed to drain it again. |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Posted: Sat May 14, 2016 7:07 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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In that case orientation will have no effect.
You did not seal the tank by chance?
The tank is close to empty.
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jaimer Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013 Posts: 52 Location: Revelstoke
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Posted: Sat May 14, 2016 7:13 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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No I didn`t seal it. Tank was in good nick, just had some gas that sat in it all winter, so wanted to make sure it was clean. Gas that is flowing slowly, and filters look clean. |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Posted: Sat May 14, 2016 7:22 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Try running the pickup hose in a gas can and see if it builds pressure.
Tcash |
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MaritimeBay Samba Member
Joined: September 16, 2013 Posts: 120 Location: Fredericton NB
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Posted: Sat May 14, 2016 8:43 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Hi All,
Searches of the forum provided some information, but maybe someone can clarify a little more.
Today I replaced my torn ball joint boots (joints were within tolerance!) but I'm having a hard time getting the steering knuckle back onto the joints. I've played around with jacking up the lower torsion arm so that they sit closer together but even with the lower jacked up, the angles of the two torsion arms + joints are still 'off' such that I can't fit the knuckle on. Has anyone else run into this?
Back at it tomorrow!
Thanks!
Edit: I think I've got it now. For any future seachers, I put the knuckle on the bottom ball joint on first, then jacked up the lower control arm from the steering knuckle (closer to the tie rod extension) to get closer to the right angle for the top ball joint to slip in. It's not really a quick operation. _________________ 1977 2.0L FI Westfalia.
They call my home the land of snow. |
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Thrasher22 Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2010 Posts: 858 Location: Calgary, Canada
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Posted: Mon May 16, 2016 10:39 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Tcash wrote: |
Thrasher22 wrote: |
I'm using the correct copper lock nuts, and am and using the correct torque settings. |
What are you torquing them to?
Tcash |
Sorry, was getting ready for a show all weekend. Can't remember off-hand, it was whatever Bentley recommended. Took a look yesterday and one bolt might be coming out of the head... Doesn't explain the rest, but I'll take a look when I pull the heat exchangers to add the flaps I tracked down this weekend. _________________ 1975 Westfalia - http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=516701 |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Posted: Mon May 16, 2016 11:24 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Thrasher22 wrote: |
Tcash wrote: |
Thrasher22 wrote: |
I'm using the correct copper lock nuts, and am and using the correct torque settings. |
What are you torquing them to?
Tcash |
Sorry, was getting ready for a show all weekend. Can't remember off-hand, it was whatever Bentley recommended. Took a look yesterday and one bolt might be coming out of the head... Doesn't explain the rest, but I'll take a look when I pull the heat exchangers to add the flaps I tracked down this weekend. |
Type 4 Exhaust Install |
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tymbo Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2013 Posts: 30 Location: Louisville, KY
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Posted: Mon May 16, 2016 7:10 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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What is the correct orientation for the plug wire boot? Left or right?
It seems like the right side is what I see, but with the tin having positive pressure pushing outward I would the the left side would work better?
_________________ A smooth sea never made a skilled sailor.
Rust is time consuming |
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Tom Powell Samba Member
Joined: December 01, 2005 Posts: 4855 Location: Kaneohe
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Posted: Mon May 16, 2016 10:17 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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tymbo wrote: |
What is the correct orientation for the plug wire boot? Left or right?
It seems like the right side is what I see, but with the tin having positive pressure pushing outward I would the the left side would work better?
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I do mine like the left side with fan air sealing the rubber against the hole instead of blowing the rubber away and letting cooling air escape. Years ago VW ignition wires were double lipped. One inside the tin and one outside.
Aloha
tp |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50350
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Posted: Mon May 16, 2016 11:20 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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tymbo wrote: |
What is the correct orientation for the plug wire boot? Left or right?
It seems like the right side is what I see, but with the tin having positive pressure pushing outward I would the the left side would work better?
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Buy and install a set of E06TY023-B Toyota Land Cruiser tie rod boots and you will loose very little cooling air around where the wires go through the tin.
http://www.coolcruisers.com/tierodend5pi.html
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HerNameIsRita Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2015 Posts: 106 Location: Brooklyn, NY
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Posted: Tue May 17, 2016 11:10 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I'm driving a 77' Automatic. Every so often my engine with shut off while I'm driving. I troubleshooting this problem but in the meantime, is it safe to put it in neutral and start the engine back up while I'm on the highway?
I had to do this in the Lincoln Tunnel recently. Not a good place to breakdown. |
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Tom Powell Samba Member
Joined: December 01, 2005 Posts: 4855 Location: Kaneohe
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Posted: Tue May 17, 2016 11:30 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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HerNameIsRita wrote: |
I'm driving a 77' Automatic. Every so often my engine with shut off while I'm driving. I troubleshooting this problem but in the meantime, is it safe to put it in neutral and start the engine back up while I'm on the highway?
I had to do this in the Lincoln Tunnel recently. Not a good place to breakdown. |
I think the owner's manual has a limit for speed in neutral, but higher speeds might not a problem if only for a restart. Don't lock the steering or hit park.
Aloha
tp |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Posted: Tue May 17, 2016 1:11 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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HerNameIsRita wrote: |
I'm driving a 77' Automatic. Every so often my engine with shut off while I'm driving. I troubleshooting this problem but in the meantime, is it safe to put it in neutral and start the engine back up while I'm on the highway?
I had to do this in the Lincoln Tunnel recently. Not a good place to breakdown. |
Better yet connect a wire from the positive terminal on the battery to #15 positive on the coil. You will have to remove the wire to shut the engine off. But it should not die going down the rode.
Did the PO put any of these on the wires going to the coil or distributor?
Tcash |
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