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Brian
Samba Moderator
Joined: May 28, 2012
Posts: 8340
Location: Oceanside
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 Posted: Wed May 11, 2016 2:28 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| tymbo wrote: |
| stonecat wrote: |
| Stupid question, but it's not in the manual. What is the silver hole in the dashboard on my 78 camper? The one below the glovebox knob. |
This is a "hella" type plug that was used for the 12v air pump for the spare tire. They sale adapters on eBay to a standard 12v plug for less than $20 shipped. |
I thought that was for the map light?
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stonecat
Samba Member
Joined: December 20, 2012
Posts: 14
Location: Montgomery
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| Posted: Wed May 11, 2016 2:39 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Thanks! I just ordered a dual USB charger conversion kit for $20.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301280895815?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
| tymbo wrote: |
| stonecat wrote: |
Stupid question, but it's not in the manual. What is the silver hole in the dashboard on my 78 camper? The one below the glovebox knob.
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This is a "hella" type plug that was used for the 12v air pump for the spare tire. They sale adapters on eBay to a standard 12v plug for less than $20 shipped. |
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busdaddy
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Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51153
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Thrasher22
Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2010
Posts: 858
Location: Calgary, Canada
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| Posted: Thu May 12, 2016 12:25 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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A couple of the header bolts that hold my heat exchangers on keep slowly backing off and causing exhaust leaks. To stop this, can I just put another nut on the header bolts? Or could that get me into trouble later...
I'm using the correct copper lock nuts, and am and using the correct torque settings. Once I tighten them up I have a very nice, quiet exhaust, as I spent a bunch of time fixing/sealing everything, so it's really frustrating.
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1975 Westfalia - http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=516701 |
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Tcash
Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Thu May 12, 2016 12:37 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Thrasher22 wrote: |
A couple of the header bolts that hold my heat exchangers on keep slowly backing off and causing exhaust leaks. To stop this, can I just put another nut on the header bolts? Or could that get me into trouble later...
I'm using the correct copper lock nuts, and am and using the correct torque settings. Once I tighten them up I have a very nice, quiet exhaust, as I spent a bunch of time fixing/sealing everything, so it's really frustrating. |
It may take a few heat cycles. But once everything settles in they should stay tight.
Tcash |
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Thrasher22
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Joined: October 05, 2010
Posts: 858
Location: Calgary, Canada
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| Posted: Thu May 12, 2016 12:49 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Tcash wrote: |
It may take a few heat cycles. But once everything settles in they should stay tight.
Tcash |
It's been a year since I redid my exhaust. I have to tighten it every couple weeks, or after a couple hours on the highway (once it cools down of course). 
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beatles4
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Joined: January 26, 2014
Posts: 400
Location: Miami
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| Posted: Thu May 12, 2016 1:00 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I am installing new tires here in the next few days on my bus and I thought getting the bus aligned would be a grand idea. To date I have replaced the drag links, both tie rod ends, steering box, and the front and rear shocks? Is there anything that I didn't replace yet that in the future if I do replace would throw off the alignment?
I know the ball joints are on the list for good measure but that isnt for a while. I am not exactly sure how much more complex the rear end is either.
Essentially, I don't want to end up paying for an alignment twice if I don't need to.
From what I understand our buses don't have camber adjustments, just toe and that is adjusted via the one adjustable tie rod end. Is there anything else?
I have no reason to think the ball joints are bad other than the boots being broken.
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Wildthings
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Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50352
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| Posted: Thu May 12, 2016 1:32 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| beatles4 wrote: |
From what I understand our buses don't have camber adjustments, just toe and that is adjusted via the one adjustable tie rod end. Is there anything else?
I have no reason to think the ball joints are bad other than the boots being broken. |
There are eccentrics on the upper ball joints that affect both the caster and camber. The book gives specs for setting the camber but the more you turn the eccentrics to try and bring the camber in the less caster you will have. A lot of time even at maximum adjustment you can not get the camber on one side to be within specs. 
My way of aligning the front is to always have the mark on the eccentric pointing within 45° of forward while getting the camber the same on both sides even if neither side is then within spec. This will allow the bus to track straight and steering to return to center as well as possible. |
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Tcash
Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Thu May 12, 2016 1:40 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Thrasher22 wrote: |
| Tcash wrote: |
It may take a few heat cycles. But once everything settles in they should stay tight.
Tcash |
It's been a year since I redid my exhaust. I have to tighten it every couple weeks, or after a couple hours on the highway (once it cools down of course). |
That sucks.
Try these.
http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-Copper-Exhaust-...56297.html
GD
Tcash |
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Thrasher22
Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2010
Posts: 858
Location: Calgary, Canada
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| Posted: Thu May 12, 2016 3:05 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Tcash wrote: |
| Thrasher22 wrote: |
| Tcash wrote: |
It may take a few heat cycles. But once everything settles in they should stay tight.
Tcash |
It's been a year since I redid my exhaust. I have to tighten it every couple weeks, or after a couple hours on the highway (once it cools down of course). |
That sucks.
Try these.
http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-Copper-Exhaust-...56297.html
GD
Tcash |
Those are actually what I'm using  picked them up from a VW dealership
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Tom Powell
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Joined: December 01, 2005
Posts: 4855
Location: Kaneohe
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| Posted: Thu May 12, 2016 3:21 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Thrasher22 wrote: |
| ... can I just put another nut on the header bolts? Or could that get me into trouble later ... |
I would double nut or use lock washers or use a bit of locktite.
You might try a set of these copper locking nuts:
https://www.belmetric.com/hex-with-flange-c-3_51_53/
Aloha
tp |
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Thrasher22
Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2010
Posts: 858
Location: Calgary, Canada
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| Posted: Thu May 12, 2016 3:39 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Tom Powell wrote: |
| Thrasher22 wrote: |
| ... can I just put another nut on the header bolts? Or could that get me into trouble later ... |
I would double nut or use lock washers or use a bit of locktite.
You might try a set of these copper locking nuts:
https://www.belmetric.com/hex-with-flange-c-3_51_53/
Aloha
tp |
Already using copper locking nuts, so I'm surprised they aren't holding. Might try loctite, I wasn't sure if that would get me into trouble one day trying to take them off if it turns to carbon.
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wcfvw69 
Samba Purist
Joined: June 10, 2004
Posts: 13389
Location: Arizona
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| Posted: Thu May 12, 2016 3:40 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| beatles4 wrote: |
I am installing new tires here in the next few days on my bus and I thought getting the bus aligned would be a grand idea. To date I have replaced the drag links, both tie rod ends, steering box, and the front and rear shocks? Is there anything that I didn't replace yet that in the future if I do replace would throw off the alignment?
I know the ball joints are on the list for good measure but that isnt for a while. I am not exactly sure how much more complex the rear end is either.
Essentially, I don't want to end up paying for an alignment twice if I don't need to.
From what I understand our buses don't have camber adjustments, just toe and that is adjusted via the one adjustable tie rod end. Is there anything else?
I have no reason to think the ball joints are bad other than the boots being broken. |
On top of what Wildthings already added-
The center bushing/pin will effect your alignment. How's yours? Did you roughly set the toe in/out after you changed the tie rods? Badly worn ball joints will not allow a bus to hold an alignment either. If it was me, I'd wait until I changed the ball joints and center pin before getting the front aligned. I'd simply set the toe in/out in your drive way. The toe causes the most dramatic tire wear when it's off.
On the rear, you have the torsion bar bushings. If you haven't changed them, they need to be changed. You can mark the spring plates before disassembling it to hold the alignment. I'd still have it checked after changing the bushing though.
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Wildthings
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Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50352
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| Posted: Thu May 12, 2016 3:44 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Thrasher22 wrote: |
| Tcash wrote: |
It may take a few heat cycles. But once everything settles in they should stay tight.
Tcash |
It's been a year since I redid my exhaust. I have to tighten it every couple weeks, or after a couple hours on the highway (once it cools down of course). |
Did you use SS hardware? If so it is notorious for working its way loose, at least until it galls and you can't get them loose anymore. |
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Tom Powell
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Joined: December 01, 2005
Posts: 4855
Location: Kaneohe
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| Posted: Thu May 12, 2016 3:51 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Thrasher22 wrote: |
| Tom Powell wrote: |
| Thrasher22 wrote: |
| ... can I just put another nut on the header bolts? Or could that get me into trouble later ... |
I would double nut or use lock washers or use a bit of locktite.
You might try a set of these copper locking nuts:
https://www.belmetric.com/hex-with-flange-c-3_51_53/
Aloha
tp |
Already using copper locking nuts, so I'm surprised they aren't holding. Might try loctite, I wasn't sure if that would get me into trouble one day trying to take them off if it turns to carbon. |
Locktite would be a last resort. Lock washers would be my first choice. Did you note the dimples on the Belmetric lock nuts? I don't think you'll see those on the lock nuts you are using.
Aloha
tp |
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Thrasher22
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Joined: October 05, 2010
Posts: 858
Location: Calgary, Canada
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| Posted: Thu May 12, 2016 3:51 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Tom Powell wrote: |
Locktite would be a last resort. Lock washers would be my first choice. Did you note the dimples on the Belmetric lock nuts? I don't think you'll see those on the lock nuts you are using.
Aloha
tp |
I didn't, good point! Mine were just pinched into a slight oval shape. I'll see if I can find any around town. I'm going to my first vw show on sunday and am hoping to quiet it down by then.
| Wildthings wrote: |
Did you use SS hardware? If so it is notorious for working its way loose, at least until it galls and you can't get them loose anymore. |
Nope, the good copper locking nuts...
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Tcash
Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Thu May 12, 2016 7:10 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Thrasher22 wrote: |
| Tcash wrote: |
| Thrasher22 wrote: |
| Tcash wrote: |
It may take a few heat cycles. But once everything settles in they should stay tight.
Tcash |
It's been a year since I redid my exhaust. I have to tighten it every couple weeks, or after a couple hours on the highway (once it cools down of course). |
That sucks.
Try these.
http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-Copper-Exhaust-...56297.html
GD
Tcash |
Those are actually what I'm using picked them up from a VW dealership |
Loctite is not a good idea. Red is the only one that would work and you would pull the studs trying to remove the nuts.
Keep a close eye on the studs and make sure they are not pulling out of the head.
Good luck
Tcash |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51153
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Fri May 13, 2016 7:25 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Tcash wrote: |
| Keep a close eye on the studs and make sure they are not pulling out of the head. |
Good point, why are you the only one having this issue?
Here's another serious high temp locknut option: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=MJET , Flexloc nuts also come in a high temp metric thread, not sure where to buy those in small quantities though. Option C is a Honda dealer, they use a high nickle content exhaust nut that holds up very well and rarely comes loose.
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Thrasher22
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Joined: October 05, 2010
Posts: 858
Location: Calgary, Canada
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| Posted: Fri May 13, 2016 8:19 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
| Tcash wrote: |
| Keep a close eye on the studs and make sure they are not pulling out of the head. |
Good point, why are you the only one having this issue?
Here's another serious high temp locknut option: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=MJET , Flexloc nuts also come in a high temp metric thread, not sure where to buy those in small quantities though. Option C is a Honda dealer, they use a high nickle content exhaust nut that holds up very well and rarely comes loose. |
That had crossed my mind, but it's 4 nuts that always get loose, so hopefully not that many bolts are pulling out of the head. I'll try doubling up a couple of them this weekend and see if that makes a difference. I guess tapping in some step down bolts wouldn't be the end of the world.
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Tcash
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Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Fri May 13, 2016 10:26 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Thrasher22 wrote: |
| I'm using the correct copper lock nuts, and am and using the correct torque settings. |
What are you torquing them to?
Tcash |
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