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JayC Samba Member
Joined: July 07, 2010 Posts: 292 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Wed Feb 17, 2016 6:12 pm Post subject: Re: My 1973 Refresh Project |
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Thanks! I'll take a look. I had been using my local VW shop for the (Panters Grinding - love those guys!). Since I am out of town this week, was hoping to order.
It is really the pulley that is more concerning. I thought I had a good one, but obviously not
jay |
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JayC Samba Member
Joined: July 07, 2010 Posts: 292 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2016 5:47 pm Post subject: Re: My 1973 Refresh Project |
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Ok, got the engine out...
Tried just putting a new pulley on the alternator, but no luck. It turns, but like there is sand in it. Getting a new pulley this week.
Don't let anyone tell you this is a simple job. For those of you that have done this with the engine in the car, you are amazing. Even with the engine out, it was a pain to get the shroud off and then then the alternator out. I hope it goes back together much easier than it came apart.
I bet my buddy that was helping me we could get the engine out and alternator out in a hour. I was only off by two!
jay |
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JayC Samba Member
Joined: July 07, 2010 Posts: 292 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 1:32 pm Post subject: Re: My 1973 Refresh Project |
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Everything is back together. Sorry, just venting a bit, but what a pain to swap an alternator.
The offending piece...
So, when I tightened the belt, I have 10 shims, 6 between the pulley halves and 4 on the outside. Does this make sense?
jay |
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Bashr52 Samba Member
Joined: July 16, 2006 Posts: 5666 Location: On an island in VA
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Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2016 6:51 am Post subject: Re: My 1973 Refresh Project |
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Damn that must have been one cheap pulley!
This is the reason I have started slotting the rear of the alternator stand, and using bolts instead of studs on the front. If I need to pull the alternator I just loosen the nuts on the back side, pull the two bolts out of the front, pull the 4 fan backing plate bolts, and slide the whole thing out the front of the car |
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JayC Samba Member
Joined: July 07, 2010 Posts: 292 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2016 8:26 am Post subject: Re: My 1973 Refresh Project |
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I am not sure if the pulley was cheap or it just got "caught" in the alternator and there was enough force to break it.
I get what you are saying about the studs, but the challenge I had were the four bolts that hold the plate that attaches to the should and holds the alternator in. Ok, that was pretty convoluted.
The plate that bolts to the alternator, before the fan. The two bolts at the bottom are tucked right behind the intake manifold. Hm... maybe a reason to go to dual carbs
jay |
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Bashr52 Samba Member
Joined: July 16, 2006 Posts: 5666 Location: On an island in VA
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Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2016 6:20 pm Post subject: Re: My 1973 Refresh Project |
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JayC wrote: |
I am not sure if the pulley was cheap or it just got "caught" in the alternator and there was enough force to break it.
I get what you are saying about the studs, but the challenge I had were the four bolts that hold the plate that attaches to the should and holds the alternator in. Ok, that was pretty convoluted.
The plate that bolts to the alternator, before the fan. The two bolts at the bottom are tucked right behind the intake manifold. Hm... maybe a reason to go to dual carbs
jay |
Oh yah, I kind of took advantage of the fact I don't have a stock carb setup |
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GI Joe Samba Member
Joined: April 28, 2005 Posts: 2012 Location: Athens, TN
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citroen Samba Member
Joined: February 28, 2010 Posts: 1578 Location: louisville ky
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Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 4:22 pm Post subject: Re: My 1973 Refresh Project |
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Bashr52 wrote: |
Damn that must have been one cheap pulley!
This is the reason I have started slotting the rear of the alternator stand, and using bolts instead of studs on the front. If I need to pull the alternator I just loosen the nuts on the back side, pull the two bolts out of the front, pull the 4 fan backing plate bolts, and slide the whole thing out the front of the car |
I always use bolts with inserts in the case on the gen stand makes replacing a alternator a breeze slotting the back of the alt stand is also a great idea. I do install inserts in the case at the gen stand so you don't have a problem pulling the threads out of the case.This is the pully I try to use it is welded and has 2 locking tabs
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JayC Samba Member
Joined: July 07, 2010 Posts: 292 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2016 8:27 am Post subject: Re: My 1973 Refresh Project |
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I like that pulley and the weld. Do you know if there are still suppliers of that type of pulley?
I am sure this is my own fault as I don't think I had enough shims in place the first time around. This time, now that everything is back together, I am thinking of taking to the local guys and having them do an inspection around the whole thing (no pun intended) to see if there is anything else I screwed up
jay |
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JayC Samba Member
Joined: July 07, 2010 Posts: 292 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Sun May 15, 2016 11:57 am Post subject: Re: My 1973 Refresh Project |
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Ok, replaced the alternator and the pulley. It seems to run OK, but now I have a couple of new issues that are driving me nuts.
1) It starts fine and idles fine while warming up, but once warm, it dies when I take my foot off the gas. For example, I can be slowing down for a stop sign, and it will just cut out. Restarts fine, but I keep having to give it gas. I didn't change any settings on the carb, but maybe suspecting that I don't hvae the throttle cable set correctly? I keep thinking back to that wheeler dealers episode where the plunger on the side of the carb wasn't working correctly.
2) I have a new, weird noise. It sounds exactly like revving up a weed whacker. That some spinning somewhere in the engine sounds like it is pulling / pushing air. It is completely tied to the revs in the engine. At idle, I don't hear anything, but as soon as start accelerating and the revs go up, it is like pulling the trigger on a week whacker.
Ugh, just want to get these things resolved so I can get back to a trust worthy car. May have to finally break down and take it to the shop.
jay |
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JayC Samba Member
Joined: July 07, 2010 Posts: 292 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2016 1:45 pm Post subject: Re: My 1973 Refresh Project |
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Latest update...
I finally took it to my local shop and said here, fix it
It took them about 2 hours to replace the fan in the shroud, tune the carburetor, and adjust the rockers.
Holy cow! I can't tell you want a difference it made. I thought I had things tuned pretty well. Obviously I didn't. It was quieter, accelerated like a shot, and was a breeze to drive.
So, my $.02. It was well worth the money to have someone that had 20+ years experience turning these engines on a daily basis look at your engine and tweak.
This doesn't mean that I am done doing my own work, but great to have an expert do it.
jay |
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GI Joe Samba Member
Joined: April 28, 2005 Posts: 2012 Location: Athens, TN
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JayC Samba Member
Joined: July 07, 2010 Posts: 292 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 7:57 am Post subject: Re: My 1973 Refresh Project |
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Keith at Painters Grinding in Denver. Awesome place. I really wish I could have sat and watched how he did it. Somehow he was able to pull the alternator and replace the fan without dropping the engine! That, in and of itself, would have been amazing to see and worth the price of admission. He did in two hours (along with the tuning) what took me nearly a full day to complete.
jay |
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JayC Samba Member
Joined: July 07, 2010 Posts: 292 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 2:00 pm Post subject: Re: My 1973 Refresh Project |
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Another Sunday afternoon chasing down small issues. Yes, I am driving it regularly (on the weekends). I'm still a bit nervous to get too far from the house, but nothing so far
Replaced the broken speedometer cable. Kind of a PITA but went fairly smoothly. Figured out my speedo is registering about 5MPG slow. Not sure why as the tires are the same as the stock (I think).
While I had the dashboard all torn apart, decided to check the wiring for the turn signals in the speedo unit. As anyone following along (and trust me I am not upset if you are bored and tuned out), the green lights in the speedo work with the key off and the emergency flashers, but as soon as I turn the key on, they quit working. It is baffling. No progress made. I checked and power seems to flow everywhere and all the grounds seemed to be grounded. I have been trying to decipher from the wiring diagrams what happens when you turn the switch on and how that changes power.
No progress yet. I saw on a post here somewhere that there is a different ground path when the key is on vs off? Does that ring any bells?
There is a new sympathetic vibration somewhere in the back that has to do with engine RPMs. If I take my foot off the gas or put in the clutch, I hear it. If I am going slow or fast, no issues. I am pretty sure it is not related to the clutch. went through all the tin around the motor to see if I could find it. Nothing seemed loose. Thought it might have been one of the tail pipes vibrating on the bumper. The after market tail pipes don't line up exactly with the holes in the bumper. They are a bit off.
Then went for a ride around the neighborhood and out on the highway a bit.
Oh well, gave me something to do on a nice sunny day!
Thanks all!
jay |
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