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Bypass to full flow, using the canister filter
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Danpa
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 21, 2010 8:56 pm    Post subject: Bypass to full flow, using the canister filter Reply with quote

Has anyone on here ever modified a canister filter to be a full flow?
I really like the looks of the "356" style filter as opposed to the spin on.

I just got one and I want to convert it over still using the cartridge element, but enlarging the inlet and outlet ports.
Actually, mine is an old purolator where the inlet is on a banjo fitting on the nut. I'm planning on removing the old shaft, making a new center shaft with large ports on the bottom and welding it in, making a new nut without a inlet port, and welding a bung on the side for the inlet.

What do you think?

Dan
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TomSimon
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 9:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the fitting inside diameter, oil lines size, are both too small diameter to flow enough oil if converted to type 1 style full flow.

Berg sells a system for 36hp full flow, which I haven't taken a close look at. but might include drilling and tapping into the case's main oil galley.

You can bet that whatever Berg is using, works.
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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 10:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Canister filter may not take the full oil pressure when the engine is cold.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Russ Wolfe wrote:
Canister filter may not take the full oil pressure when the engine is cold.

Some will.
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Danpa
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 5:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tom Simon wrote:
I think the fitting inside diameter, oil lines size, are both too small diameter to flow enough oil if converted to type 1 style full flow.


My plan was to make the input and output hole diameter the same size as a full flow and run larger lines. Basically do everything you would do for a full flow system, but with a cartridge instead of a spin on filter.

Using a filter like this from WIX:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Part Number: 51071
UPC Number: 765809510715
Principal Application: Chrysler, Dodge, (57-59) Daf Trucks
All Applications
Style: Cartridge Lube Metal Canister Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 4.218
Outer Diameter: 3.367
Inner Diameter Top: 0.578
Inner Diameter Bottom: 0.703
Nominal Micron Rating: 25

Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
15062 4.687 4.000 0.062
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 2:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you just like the look of the Porsche style by-pass filter just blank off the pipework and use a hideaway spin-on filter to do the work. If the by-pass filter is there for cosmetic reasons it doesn't have to work...they have a pretty low efficiency anyway.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 3:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

it should work with the right modifications to fittings and lines, because denzel used it also....

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 4:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

John Moxon wrote:
If you just like the look of the Porsche style by-pass filter just blank off the pipework and use a hideaway spin-on filter to do the work. If the by-pass filter is there for cosmetic reasons it doesn't have to work...they have a pretty low efficiency anyway.


The by-pass efficiency is even worse with the new filters, guess these are considered totally obsolete. For instance Fram C-3 replacement, Wix 51010, Nominal Micron Rating: 32 (Wix spin on filters for modern vehicles: 21)

Interesting read

http://www.porsche356registry.org/resources/tech-a...eness.html

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=607939#Post607939
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Danpa
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 8:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

John Moxon wrote:
If you just like the look of the Porsche style by-pass filter just blank off the pipework and use a hideaway spin-on filter to do the work. If the by-pass filter is there for cosmetic reasons it doesn't have to work...they have a pretty low efficiency anyway.


It would drive me nuts knowing that I have something on the engine, kind of a highlight if you will, that does absolutely nothing but take up space. (I wonder if I can get a nitrous bottle that small..... Smile )

Anyway, I know it would be a lot easier to hide away a spin on, but the only place you can put it where it's relatively easy to get to is in the fenderwell behind the tire. I know a lot of people put them there, but unless there is a shield of some kind, I don't think it's a good idea since the filter and lines are constantly being beat up with whatever the tire kicks up.
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Danpa
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 8:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

oval56 wrote:
it should work with the right modifications to fittings and lines, because denzel used it also....


Besides, I must be on the right track if DENZEL used it too. Smile

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Danpa
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 8:59 am    Post subject: Bypass to full flow, using the canister filter Reply with quote

I went with a different filter, a little larger inside diameter. It was around $12, not too bad I didn't think.

Part Number: 51076
UPC Number: 765809510760
Principal Application: Dodge Trucks (65-75), Chrysler Industrial Engines
All Applications
Style: Cartridge Lube Metal Canister Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 4.198
Outer Diameter: 3.367
Inner Diameter: 0.764
Nominal Micron Rating: 25

I'm going for it. I'll take it in to work next week, remove the old post, make a new one and the other related parts and post pics when I'm done.
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Danpa
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 8:43 pm    Post subject: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=444606& Reply with quote

Well I finally got the filter modified. I had to make the center shaft twice because on the first one the material was mismarked, was supposed to be 416 s.s., but it wasn't. Heat treat couldn't harden it above Rc 9, don't know what it was.

Anyway, here's some pics:

When I first got it. The internals including a NOS 70 year old filter.

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



The old shaft that I cut out (bottom) and the new 416 s.s. one (top).
Note the size of the oil holes.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The old banjo inlet and the new bung for side inlet (also 416 s.s.)
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


After good friend TIG welded them in. He's a much better Tig man than I am.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


A little primer and paint and it should be ready to go.
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oval56
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 10:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

top work!!!!

cool to see that it is to make....
thumbs up for that idea and work!
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Low Bräu
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 10:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any thoughts on having the holes on the shaft located up higher to prevent the oil in the canister from draining back into the case while the engine is off? Since there is no check valve, that I know of, I would think the oil level would drop to the lowest hole when the engine is off. I am not even sure this would be an issue just something to consider. Nice job, your machining and welds look tits.

I did notice you made yours like the one here.

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Josh
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Danpa
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 4:17 pm    Post subject: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=444606& Reply with quote

This is the plan. The oil won't drain out below the inlet bung or the outlet pipe if they are plumbed like this. Plus with a removable plug in the t-fitting, I can drain the canister (well, except for the last 1/2 inch or so), and refill the engine using the canister. Also I think I'll gain at least a quart or more of capacity. Kind of like a overhead sump.

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BTW, the banjo fitting isn't on the nut anymore, I just used the old pic.
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Low Bräu
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 4:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good idea. I didn't consider the routing of the hose. Gaining an extra quart of oil is exactly what I was thinking. More frosting on the cake. Very Happy

Keep us posted on the install I'd like to build one as well. Should work out quite nicely.

Josh
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't worry about looping the oil line up to try to keep it from 'draining'. The only way it will drain is if you have a way to let air in to displace the oil.

My biggest concern is can the cartrige filter for that bypass filter handle the oil flow of a a full flow system or will it be too restrictive? My money is on it being too restrictive, as it is only supposed to flow a small amount of oil that is not being forced past it (If the oil is too cold/thick it's no big deal, whatever it can't flow just goes to the bearings and relief valve) Add to that, the cartridge filter has no bypass built into it, so if it does restrict oil flow, it is your bearings that will take the hit due to insufficient oil flow to them.

Top notch work, but I see it as a bad idea. The filter element itself is not designed to do what you want it to do.
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Danpa
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 7:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Bypass to full flow, using the canister filter Reply with quote

Part Number: 51076
UPC Number: 765809510760
Principal Application: Dodge Trucks (65-75), Chrysler Industrial Engines
All Applications
Style: Cartridge Lube Metal Canister Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 4.198
Outer Diameter: 3.367
Inner Diameter: 0.764
Nominal Micron Rating: 25

This is the filter I'm using, it is a full flow not a bypass filter.
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Low Bräu
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd have to have a good look at the filter first but I think it'll work no problem. I think the orifices of the filter housing itself will be the limiting factor not the filter material. I don't see fram using two different materials for their filters but I could be wrong. Keep the filter and oil clean and the bypass shouldn't be a problem.

Oil filters are cheap buy one for your system and one for the FH6PL, supposedly the full flow one, and compare. Also a lot late model BMWs use a pleated cartridge filter as well. I would buy a few and cut them up and compare if in doubt. I bet the paper element is the same thickness/material and the surface area depends on the size of the can.

Good luck
Josh
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 9:54 pm    Post subject: [IMG]http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp314/dpartak/B-IOwB Reply with quote

Here's the old on the right and new filter on the left. I think since the new one was for Dodge v8's and 6's, it should work.
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