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PumaGTe
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 12, 2013 3:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Alstrup, Looks impressive, what causes the HP to suddenly stop climbing?

Torque curve looks awesome, and the engine qould rev wel past 6.000rpm... Perfect street engine, and when using that much stock parts it can be build quite cheap compared to other engines.

I always assumed the stock crank could not take more than 4.500-5.000 rpm, but apperently it can take more when build correct.

Keep up the good work!
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Alstrup
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 12, 2013 6:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In these engines the trick is to find all the power possible as low in the rpm as possible, so that stock parts will live with it. That means that you have to have enough head flow to support the hp, but also not more than that, so the engine will pull the power early enough, So when the heads reach their max flow with the lift and duration given, it tops climbing. Then due to the relatively high lift on the intake valve, the power curve flattens out for a while before it drops.

This engine combo is a development of my earlier 100 hp 1600, which used, among other differences, a W110. That version runs OK, but I always knew I could do better. So a couple of years ago I began to work with the combo again. I have only sold a couple of these engines since. This is the latest that I had on the rolls. They all hover between 107 & 111 hp at approx 5600 rpm.

T
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vugbug68
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1760cc bastard engine
Very nice late AS41 case
CB 74mm crank
CB 5.4" rods
CB "special cam" .365" lift @ valve 238* duration @ .050"
CB straight cuts
Mahle 87mm pistons
G01 heads, 35x32 valves, single heavy springs, chromoly retainers
Stock aluminum pushrods and stock rockers
stock flywheel 8 dowel
8.3 compression
dual Kadrons, no balance tube, csp linkage
CB merged exhaust
Bosch 019

I built this as spare VW engine that I could throw in anything, and use a stock carb or exhaust if need be. The pistons, cylinders and heads I got for free from a friend. The crank, rods, cam, lifters are all brand new, I'll probably build it into a 1904 one of these days.

It is a very fun engine, I was really surprised how nice it feels at high rpm, It is real responsive down low too, actually feels stronger with 3 people in my car, I need a bus to put this in haha! I've been averaging about 27 mpg. It didn't break the bank either, a friend of mine spent about 3 times as much on a very similar engine.
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MrpeteSWE
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 2:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm about to put together a new engine combo for my bug. Last summer it drove a 1584, with 43 heads, modified by me and dual idf 40s, custom distributor etc.

How about this combo
AS41 engine block, full flow converted, cleaned and cleared
mahle 92x69 cylinder kit (was cheap would bought stroker kit otherwise) spaced for 0,7mm squish
10:1 compression ratio
cb 78mm crank, chevy journals
5,4" i-beam rods, chevy
lightened 8 dowel flywheel
044 magnum plus heads, 42/37,5 valves, ported and flowtested
dual ida 48, 38mm venturis, DDS short manifolds
straight cam gears
lube-a-lobe lifters
web cam 86b
autocraft 1,4:1 rockers
chromoly pushrods
merged 1½" with hide away
26-30mm oil pump, berg full flow cover
original engine cooling tin, aftermarket doghouse 36hp fan house
Msd 8485 distributor, msd 6al, msd spark plug wires

This will be a street engine with some more than stock performance. My goal is above 150hp, more than that is a bonus.
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jfats808
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MrpeteSWE wrote:
I'm about to put together a new engine combo for my bug. Last summer it drove a 1584, with 43 heads, modified by me and dual idf 40s, custom distributor etc.

How about this combo
AS41 engine block, full flow converted, cleaned and cleared
mahle 92x69 cylinder kit (was cheap would bought stroker kit otherwise) spaced for 0,7mm squish
10:1 compression ratio
cb 78mm crank, chevy journals
5,4" i-beam rods, chevy
lightened 8 dowel flywheel
044 magnum plus heads, 42/37,5 valves, ported and flowtested
dual ida 48, 38mm venturis, DDS short manifolds
straight cam gears
lube-a-lobe lifters
web cam 86b
autocraft 1,4:1 rockers
chromoly pushrods
merged 1½" with hide away
26-30mm oil pump, berg full flow cover
original engine cooling tin, aftermarket doghouse 36hp fan house
Msd 8485 distributor, msd 6al, msd spark plug wires

This will be a street engine with some more than stock performance. My goal is above 150hp, more than that is a bonus.

IF your lube a lobes are the slr parkerized version than cool , otherwise Id do CB lightwieghts.I think you should step up your exhaust if its possible budget wise to an 1 5/8". Everything else looks good.
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MrpeteSWE
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 2:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I haven't really decided about the lifters.. would have tool steel if I had more money Smile but thats good to know about the lube-a-lobes.

I know about the exhaust.. just missed a bugpack 1,5/8" and had a buyer for my 1,1/2".. but i was too slow.. 1,5/8" is what i want..

Would also have gone for 94mm barrels.. but got a quick deal, 200$ for a new set of cima/mahle is a nice price Smile

Recently got my hand on a set of genuine italian ida and deano manifolds Smile
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Alstrup
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 8:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK.
Here is a little unorthodoks engine. I was lured to step into this project by a friend of mine who thought it could be fun to build a bus engine with parts that were available when his bus was new (1975) More or less anyway. I´m not sure whether the 90,5 mm cylinders were available at that time.

Anyway, here goes:

Line bored AS case.
Good used stock crank.
215 mm Flywheel, stock weight
Stock 215 mm clutch. All balanced.
Silverline main Bearings
Mahle rod & cam bearings
CB Unitech rods. 550 gr.
26 mm Shadek oil pump w. full flow system. Stock late model oil cooling + a thermostatic controlled steel cooler from a 34 hp engine, located between the struts under the car. (opening temp needs to be raised to 80 d. C. because the engine doesnt really get warm here in early spring)
CB Thin line oil sump. 1,3 qrt.
Engle W100 cam installed on 106 ILC.
CB lightweight lifters.
90,5 mm Mahle cylinderset.
Sgl port cylinderheads, ported, chambers altered to a compact wedge style. Stock valve size. Intake flow 120 CFM at 0,500” and 25”. 9-1 CR.
Manton push rods.
Bolted CB rocker shafts w. 1,25/1,1 rockers.
34 mm PDSIT dual carbs from an early 1700 bus engine. Modified. CB sgl port manifolds w. 20 mm extensions to get more plenum area and also get a better intake length. 60 mm home made intake stacks, bus type hex bar linkage, modifiead to fit in a type 1 set up. When we were done they flowed 115 CFM @ 25” hooked to the heads.
Bosch 205 SVDA distributor from a type 4 bus engine, rebuilt and altered curve to fit the type 1 engine.
Older Scat 30 hp fan housing with doghouse and venturi ring, and large fan.
Stock heater boxes. Bugpack 1 3/8” header with twin Citroen BX 16 mufflers. Exiting at the center of the car, giving a slight 356ish exhaust look. The sound brings up memories of older Alfa Romeo 1800 and 2 liter engines, which aint bad in my ears Smile

Below is the final result, which was rather close to what I had come up with on the EA Pro too. I was in doubt whether I could make these carbs work with this combo. It took about a week on & off and numerous tries, but we found the sweet spot in the end. I will say this though, that it is NOT something I would recommend to the average guy. You really need to know what´s going on in a carb, or you will be into a very steep learning curve when doing it.

T
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Alstrup
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

1600 type 1 std plus
This is a more spirited version of my 70 hp high torque engine:

New Mag case.
Reconditioned german stock crank.
200 mm flywheel, lightened 1 kg.
Stock 200 mm pressure plate.
All balanced.
Reconditioned stock rods. Balanced and modified for 356 style squirters.
CB 2280 camshaft installed on 106 ILC
CB light weight lifters.
CB 26 mm filterpump. Blueprinted.
Stock 85,5 mm cylinder kit. Pistons balanced +/- 0,5 gr.
Stock pushrods shortened to fit.
New 043 heads w. 3/4” plug thread, 35,5 x 32 mm valves. Ports massaged to my stage 2 ”rough”. Chambers slightly altered, 8,7 – 1 CR
CB HD rocker shafts. 1,25/1,1 rockers. Porsche style adjusters.
New Bosch SVDA distributor w. Ignitor module. 3 Ohm coil.
Stock late model cooling w. venturi ring.
Stock 1600 intake manifold. 34 mm PICT3 carburettor with 28 mm venturi. Stock 1968 Ghia airfilter.
Stock heater boxes and a TT 1 3/8” std plus muffler

Completely stock appearance apart from muffler.

T
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Last edited by Alstrup on Sat Jun 07, 2014 11:38 am; edited 1 time in total
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Sepi
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PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2014 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is the torque twister 2332 combo to my -59 vintage GT:

- polished Bugpack 84mm crank +8 dowel lightened flywheel and Chromoly bolt
- Kennedy stage II + 200mm, Kush-Lok
- 5,5 Bugpack H-profile rods, new ARP bolts. Porsche journals
- VW Mexico block machined and reinforced, ff,
- 94mm AA cylinder/pistons
- Schadek 30mm oil pump
- Porsche 911 oil squirters
- KS crank bearings
- Raptor PM00806 (263deg at 0.05” , 9.64mm cam lift and 106LC)
- JPM 7075 billet dual taper pushrods
- Scat steel straight cut cam gears
- JayCee no leak tubes
- 1,4 SCAT Pro-Comp 4340 Chromoly rockers
- DRD CNC L7 heads 42x37.5
- MSD Billet T-1, MSD 6AL, MSD Blaster 2
- Dellorto 45 DRLA's with 36 mm venturies (or 38 if needed)
- S-S Sidewinder
- CR 11.05
- wide oil sump, filters, coolers etc.
- Rancho pro-street, reinforced, 3,88 highway flyer, Finnish Karpiola shafts

+ CSP brakes, German R&P steering, Konis, etc. etc for handling

Still some final work, but maybe this summer will be tested and enjoyed

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DoodleBug73
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PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2014 11:45 am    Post subject: 1641 Reply with quote

I have most all components to build a 1641 what would be the difference for
a stock built versus a stroker ? Does stroker have more low in torque higher
rev. or is it not enough to tel a difference ??
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Quokka42
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PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2014 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just noticed those last two engines listed by Torben were on 106ILC - retarded 6 degrees in both cases. How was this achieved?
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Alstrup
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PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2014 10:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quokka.
In real life, with the inaccuracies that W cams typically come with, the W100 was retarded 4 degrees to get what I wanted. The 2280 2 degrees if memory serves. Most people wouldnt bother, but I like to tweak the combo´s to get the intake valves to close where I like them to. In many of my builds I aim for 106 ILC because thet seems to be the sweet spot for me in most cases. - not always, but often.
Soon I am beginning the build up of a 1600 sgl port mileage master, but with some umph. In that engine I am planning on 110 or even up to 112 ILC dependant on what the engine likes when it comes to that.

T
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Quokka42
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PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2014 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was under the impression that the 100 is ground on 108 lobe separation and ground advanced by 4 degrees and that was my experience and that the 2280 is ground on 112 separation straight up? That would make your cam well out.
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vugbug68
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PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the 2228 is the same as the 2280 but on 112 LC
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Quokka42
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PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 10:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah, my mistake. Got the two confused. It would still have a 108 ILC compared to the W100's 112, wouldn't it?
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Alstrup
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PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2014 7:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No. You need to take a look at it again. Wink
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Alstrup
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PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2014 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello

Fridays seems to be VW dominated on the dyno these days. First a wild turbo VR6 watercooled scum of the Earth Rolling Eyes (which we did the heads for) on the hubs, then this one on the rolls Smile
This is a 1914 that was built over the last approx 2½ months for a VERY nice 1960 beetle.:

Line bored dual relief case, modified for full flow.
CB 69 mm counterweighted crankshaft
CB 200 mm flywheel. 13½ lbs.
KEP stage 1 Pressure plate
All dynamically balanced
Exedy super disc.
Unitech HD rods, ligthed 20 gr. (545 gr) Rebalanced.
Cam: A variant of the Web 110 cam. 256 degr. @ 0,050”. 0,495/0,435” lift. 108 LC.
CB lightweight lifters.
26 mm Shadek oil pump, blueprinted.
CB 1,3 l. thin line oil sump
CSP full flow cover.
CB Cromemoly 8 mm head studs.
AA 94 mm pistons and cylinders. Checked, but in balance.
CB 044 cylinderheads, 40 x 35 mm valves, Ported to my stage II. (170 cfm @ 25") Oteva sgl. valve springs, CB titanium retainers. 9,8 – 1 CR.
CB HD rocker shafts.
Porsche style adjusters.
ACN aluminium push rods.
German 009 distributor w. Ignitor module. Pertronix 3 ohm coil.
CSP 30 hp fanshroud w. doghouse & fresh air.
NOS dual 40 mm Dellorto´s on CB offset manifolds.
CSP 1½” street sport exhaust system

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Last edited by Alstrup on Sat May 10, 2014 2:48 pm; edited 1 time in total
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KROC
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PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2014 10:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice motor Torben!

On the graph shown how come HP and TQ don't cross over at 5252 ?

Cheers from Canada Eh.
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Alstrup
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PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2014 4:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello.
The torque numbers are in Newtonmeter so the curves will not cross at 5252 as when the torque is measured in pounds.

T.
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Quokka42
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PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2014 4:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Because torque is displayed in Nm - that crossover is just a product of the ft-lbs to HP relationship that the less educated on the internet have misinterpreted.
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