'62 accelerator cable

[westmatt]

Am I correct in assuming that the accelerator cable should just rub across the transaxle between the tunnel and the back of the fan shroud in this year? Can I adapt a later cable conduit to this car so the pedal will depress a bit more easily?

thanks
-Matt
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[glutamodo]

Yes, that's correct.

The later style tubes were used with the stranded style cables, I think I tried one once on my 62 but couldn't get it to work good. But then again, on my 62 the cable doesn't rub. (although I've seen customer cars where it did, even seen grooves worn from the cable)

factory photo:

My 62 and my 61-body/66frame Baja, neither rub. (looks like I need new rubber boots on both of mine though)

-Andy

[westmatt]

Thanks Andy.

I'll have to see what I can do to reduce the rub.
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[Insaniac]

The PO of my car put the accelerator cable through some tubing where it exits all the way to the piece that fits through the fan shroud.

[hemifalcon]

Well, I guess it's on my car (a '62), but it's for '66 and later cars..

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=131721551
It's the Accelerator Cable bowden tube as displayed in this page from WWest

Note the flared end nearest the bottom of the picture.. This will mate up with the tube that goes through the fan shroud.

close up..

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[glutamodo]

That's mid-66 and later, when they changed everything - the pedal cluster, the type of cable, the return spring setup at the carb.

[hemifalcon]

[westmatt]

[quote="hemifalcon"]Well, I guess it's on my car (a '62), but it's for '66 and later cars..

Thanks, that looks like the ticket. I'll have to see if I can fit one of those to my car, too.
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[hemifalcon]

[quote="westmatt"]

[glutamodo]

I can't remember if I ever tried mine or not, I have one, I thought about putting it in and I may have but I know it didn't stay on, it's in one of many boxes of parts I have set aside. I think the solid wire cable in that flex tube is not the greatest combination. Let us know if you get it to work good.
-Andy

[herbie1200]

In my '63 I put the bowden tube with the original style cable (solid).

The pedal seems to be harder to push, and I'm thinking the bowden is wrong for the original cable; it does not go freely in the tube.

I will try to remove the bowden and to check the stiffnes.

I presume the cable will not touch the gearbox because in a 6V the entry point in the fan house is more central than in a 12V.

I just have to try...

[Culito]

I just used a length of plastic tubing, around 1/4" dia. It isn't tight against the frame or shroud, so it can move around a bit. I have a nice smooth pedal action.
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'64 standard w/2.0L type 4
'62 bug

[Eric&Barb]

Type 1 parts manual:

111 721 551
Protective tube - Accelerator cable
from Chassis No. 3 192 507 (AUG 1960)

Before that date VW bolted on a kind of paper clip looking bracket to the nose cone keep the cable from slicing into the transaxle.

There were different lengths over the years of this tube. Have had to shorten some of the later ones to fit pre-1968 buses by working off the steel rear end and cutting down the flex tubing. Then work back on the steel piece.
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[herbie1200]

OK, I've tested my pedal without the bowden tube and it works very well.

So I've proved that the solid cable into the bowden tube do not work together.

But I can notice a slight rubbing on the gearbox.

My '63 mounts a 1974 gearbox; could be this the problem?

Eric, do you have a pic of the item you are talking about?

I have the bowden tube, but I'm sure it is for 66 and newer models.

And: where is now the original protective tube you are referring? Is this a ligh plastic thing that, after 40+ years, has gone worn and destroyed?

Thank you

Simone

[Eric&Barb]

Early style.

Later style that has metal ends swedged onto a tube made of inner and outer plastic liner with spiral metal tube sandwiched in between. So no wimpy plastic to just disappear.

Have been using a solid metal accelerator cable with the tube in our 1960 walk thru panel camper conversion for about 250,000 miles with no problem.

Wondering if you have the body to engine tin seal not cut correctly for the cable/tube to work.
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[herbie1200]

My '63 has a VIN 5 478 305, so is later than the part "111 721 551
Protective tube - Accelerator cable" you posted before; so it should be present, right?

Using the bowden tube the main issue is a 'bend' between the tunnel and the fan shroud, so the cable comes as "shorted" and the accelerator pedal has to work in a quasi vertical position at idle.

In this position the hook on the cable enters in the tube (in the tunnel) and this is another cause of stiffnes.

Anyway, I made my 2 cent proof: out of car, the solid cable into the bended bowden tube (well lubricated): it does not run well, seems to rub to something.

The same bowden tube with a strained cable: it moves freely, as on a modern Shimano bycicle brake, no matter how much the bowden is bended.

[Eric&Barb]

[buggeezer]

I made my cable housing from icemaker tubing and fittings. I tried 2 housings, used, and the rust inside caused binding. No new housing is listed for my 1965 that I could find. You actually could make that icemaker tubing look more original by covering with electrical tape or fuel line. Mine works just fine now!

[shawnrogan65]

I just installed an accelerator guide tube/bowden tube on my '65 T1 with a stranded, new cable. I am experiencing a bit of "stickiness" whereby the throttle does not close up quickly after letting off the pedal. I lubed the cable slightly and assured a good fitting between the pan and the firewall. I am wondering if perhaps the return spring on the carb needs to be stronger with the bowden creating some additional tension?
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[Eric&Barb]