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Prospective engine build: 2007
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66brm
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2014 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Refresh my memory.....what ignition are you running? Potential points float? or coil not keeping up?
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Mikedrevguy
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2014 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

050 distributor with hot spark with stock wires and plug ends
Timing set 8btdc at idle and 35btdc at full advance
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Mikedrevguy
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sooooo,
Have fan shroud (36hrs w/o heat ducts) and Jason Eggum race fan. God willing, I won't blow this one up.
Thanks bugnut68.
Prepping for paint.
It is zinc coated model. How will that stand up do corosion? Or are they designed to be painted?

AND on order from aircooled - bugpack forged 1.25 rockers and new heim joints (replacing ones from hpmx linkage)
Question: when moving from scat 1.25 (stock style) to these paddle/swype style 1.25 rockers, will I need to adjust my geometry much? Any.?
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Mikedrevguy
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Received parts from aircooled.net - will begin test fitting this weekend.
New rockers, new heim joints,
Should I get new lash caps to run with the new rockers?
Black Hammerite finish on shroud of buggin turned out pretty nice. Tony at Graragebilt is surprising me with some pinstripe on it.

Will take pics as available.

Rev.
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Mikedrevguy
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

so, got the bugpack 1.25 rockers installed - and determined that, yes they do in need need shorter pushrods. with .090 worth of shims and the adjuster cups are only 1/2 turn from being fully imbedded in the arm - time to cut some P/R.
however, my adjustable PR won't go short enough. it bottomed out at 10.75" and I'm fairly certain we're looking closer to 10.5" for a final measurement.
so, I cut it down, retapped - and am going to amend how I've got it designed just a bit, but - - - -
question I have: the adjustable PR is made from a stock PR with stock ends. how much is that going to affect? is that going to affect the overall fit when I go with the manton (iirc) rods with ball-type ends?
just curious.
thanks,
Rev.

Oh, also - got the shroud painted and pin-stripped with thanks to Tony at KingHat.
looking forward to how this comes back together.
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74 1303 (RevBug): plan for German Look
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79 VW Iltis
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Mikedrevguy
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PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2014 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's me again, Margaret.

After installing new Super Street trans from Strictly Foreign, and forged 1.25 rockers from aircooled.net, (cutting p/r, repeatedly shimming and reshimming for sideplay- ) syncing the carbs, today, I washed it -
Of course, if it's going to break, now would be the time. Surprised

And with the new heim joints, much more bueno.

Got a laser thermometer, checked head temps- 310 on 3/4 side 295 on 1/2.

Will check in again after I make a few 1/4 mile few weeks.
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74 1303 (RevBug): plan for German Look
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79 VW Iltis
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Mikedrevguy
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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2015 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

it would seem it's Time for yearly a check-in:
replaced rings and cylinders: went with total seal rings and new Mahle cylinders.
So - ran at champion last friday night: 14.7 @ 92 mph. wheeeehawwww.

yesterday, noticed oil dripping from the bell housing - whipped off;
this morning, more puddling underneath - and on closer inspection, it's coming down the 3/4 side - and on even closer inspection, there's oil dripping from the duct off the oil cooler - - I'm guessing that I've an issue with my oil cooler - what you think?
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74 1303 (RevBug): plan for German Look
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79 VW Iltis
69 Bwajaja
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Mikedrevguy
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PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2015 10:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, i did pull motor, replace cooler seals,
Ran a 14.64 @ 92.68. @ champion raceway tonight.
However , cooler is leaking again.
Gonna pull- again- . This time replace stand and cooler. (Thinking being that possibly when I detonated the fan last summer, the stand didn't fair as well as I had thought. )
Hoping to have it up and running dry for Woodburn on the 30th.
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Mikedrevguy
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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 7:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Made the first venture out of the Rogue Valley- trailered up to Woodburn dragstrip for the Northwest Bug Run- Rose City Volks put on a great show
Scored two P/Rs- 93.38 mph and 14.58 sec. (Not on same run but. . . And the 14.58 was on a 14.6 dial in-)

Motor ran strong and best of all no oil flows and I didn't break anything.

Rev.
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bugguy1967
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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm interested in your connecting rods. I plan on using 912 rods in my 2276. It seems like they've held up well through lots of abuse. Did you do anything special to them? Did you replace the nuts like the manufacturer recommended?

I have all the parts. My combo will be:
94 AA Bs
Berg Porsche Journal 82mm, wedgemated with 11/32 dowels
912 Rods, reconditioned, modified tangs
Kolbenshmidt rod bearings
Engle W120, CWC billet
1.1 SCAT rockers with Torsten Pieper adjusters
Healthy professionally hand ported 40x35s, CB SS single-groove valves, Titanium retainers, CB springs, shimmed, hopefully 9.5:1 comp
CB/Manton aluminum pushrods
CB 28mm Ultralight lifters
44 IDFs, 36 vents
1 5/8" header with heat
Magnaspark Crank Trigger Kit
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Mikedrevguy
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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 4:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't done anything special them - torqued them with red loctite.
working with the 82 crank, I don't know what you'll experience, but with the 78 crank, I had to machine the cylinders to get a tight enough deck.

sounds like you've got a great combo; look forward to seeing how it runs. good luck.
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74 1303 (RevBug): plan for German Look
76 914 with 2260
79 VW Iltis
69 Bwajaja
"The wise speak because they have something to say; while the foolish speak because they have to say something." Plato

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Mikedrevguy
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 9:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After running 14.5 at Woodburn last week, the best I could muster was 14.95 last night, and consistently right around 15.05- consistent enough to bring home some hardware.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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74 1303 (RevBug): plan for German Look
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79 VW Iltis
69 Bwajaja
"The wise speak because they have something to say; while the foolish speak because they have to say something." Plato

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midtravelmidengine
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 8:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CONGRATS!!!

Sounds like your having a lot of fun with that thing!! Very Happy
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Mikedrevguy
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks! am having a great time with it. am starting to wonder what the motor/tranny combo might do in something lighter than a full weight Super - but, will just keep plugging away.

Hope folk don't find the periodic timeslip updates too annoying, but that, together with the micro-changes I'm making, helps just to process what's happening.

for instance - I'd been running tire pressure up around 26psi - putting the tire diameter at 25"+ At Woodburn, I dropped it to 24psi, but this this weekend, dropped to 16psi (as seems to be the more common wisdom) - but that dropped the tire diameter to <24" which was sufficient to mess with RPM and speeds I was shifting.

Thanks, again.
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74 1303 (RevBug): plan for German Look
76 914 with 2260
79 VW Iltis
69 Bwajaja
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Mikedrevguy
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 05, 2016 9:15 pm    Post subject: Re: Prosspective engine build: 2007 Reply with quote

Well, okay then.
Spend the some time today and yesterday tracking do a tick tick, that as the day today wore on became more of a tack tack.
Checked drive line, reshimmed the rockers, checked lash, double checked it all-
Drained oil and found a wrist pin circlip in the oil screen.

Back to the drawing board.
Might pull it and and at least pull the 3/4 (affected) side tomorrow. Assess what all has happened and plot the rebuild.
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modok
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2016 2:49 pm    Post subject: Re: Prosspective engine build: 2007 Reply with quote

Sorry for your troubles.
I am sure we can permanently fix your piston pin troubles, just need to set it up right.
Keep us posted.
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Mikedrevguy
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2016 3:13 pm    Post subject: Re: Prosspective engine build: 2007 Reply with quote

appreciate that, Glen.
no doubt the release of the cir clip is due to user error.
surprised? startled? amazed I got the passes out of it I did before it let loose.

well - off to pull a motor and see just how much damage was done.
more to come.
Thanks again, Glen.
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74 1303 (RevBug): plan for German Look
76 914 with 2260
79 VW Iltis
69 Bwajaja
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Mikedrevguy
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2016 10:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Prosspective engine build: 2007 Reply with quote

Motor down to shortblock.
Sure enough- #3 wrist pin circlip was awol. Barrel had copious amounts of oil in it-. The gouge in the side of the barrel where the wristpin carved is likely the access point.

Rods seem okay, smooth, not sloppy,
<.013" lateral play (excessive?mhope not)

Step up to 92mm pistons? Hmmm.
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74 1303 (RevBug): plan for German Look
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79 VW Iltis
69 Bwajaja
"The wise speak because they have something to say; while the foolish speak because they have to say something." Plato

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modok
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2016 11:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Prosspective engine build: 2007 Reply with quote

That's good. If they DIDN't have .012" side play I was going to tell you to loosen em up!

The three main reasons clips "fail" often in these engines are:
-Taking the pins out of the pistons can be hard, so some use excessive force and tweak the rods, rather than heat and cut the burr by the clip and slide it right apart.
-The machinists who rebuild the rods don't know how to check the alignment of the rods.
-The crank has a lot of flex at high rpms and if you don't have enough clearance on all the moving parts for the RPMS you running it can knock the pins sideways. .001" clearance per inch of diameter is good MINIMUM for the rod bearing, and the fit of the pin in the rod.

Beyond that, there is also the possibility the clips just aren't right. Which, isn't unthinkable.
IMO there is two right ways to do it.
You can have a round wire clip, which is actually STRONGER than a flat c-clip, IF it has no tangs on, OR has the tangs ground or flattened so they don't touch the pin. Where the pin touches the clip should have a 40-45 degree chamfer on it so it actually pushes the clip outward and locks it in. Works great.

OR you can have a flat c-clip. Then, you DON't want a 45 chamfer on the end of the pin, rather flat, with maybe a tiny 60 degree chamfer just enough to not be sharp.



it's been found too much side play of the pin in the piston can beat up the clips worse too, but I don't think it would actually cause a failure, maybe just burr up worse.
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Mikedrevguy
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2016 8:27 pm    Post subject: Re: Prosspective engine build: 2007 Reply with quote

So the plan
Tear down and replace bearings.
Bump the heads to 94 and run thick wall 92s with Mahler cylinders.
Compression will be bumped to 9.5.

No problem.
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74 1303 (RevBug): plan for German Look
76 914 with 2260
79 VW Iltis
69 Bwajaja
"The wise speak because they have something to say; while the foolish speak because they have to say something." Plato

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