Bedliner Build

[corradolvr]

Good call. I didn't even think about it. I just put them on the same way the originals came off. I looked, and it seems it doesn't matter on these shocks, but I wouldn't want dirt and junk sitting on top of the gas tube getting wiped repeatedly. I think I'll turn them over. Water would probably sit up there too.

I need to back off my torsion bars one tooth anyway. Perfect time to do it.

Thanks Bashr52!
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[dustymojave]

MAny shock manufacturers recommend mounting shocks with the cylinder down. Especially if they are not gas shocks. For low unsprung weight consideration, it's better to have the shocks mounted cylinder UP. For clearance issues in VW offroad suspension front AND rear, it is generally BETTER to mount shocks with the cylinder UP. Such as in those rear IRS arms, with the arm extended down, the shaft has plenty of clearance, but the body comes close to the side of the arm., although at full bump, there is plenty of room. If you flip the shock, at full droop, the shaft leaves LOTS of room, and at full bump where there is more room, then the body has room anyway. The front arms are the same way.

The shock in the pic looks like a Carrera circle track shock. Is it?
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Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[corradolvr]

Thanks Dusty. They just the Bilstien heavy duties with the 14mm shaft. Had the KYB gas-a-just and swapped them for these becasue the KYBs were maxed out length-wise.
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[corradolvr]

So, I've got my IDF 40s torn apart. Would I be beating a dead horse if I chronicled the cleaning, assembly and such?

Also, I've heard mixed opinions on what to clean/soak the things with/in. I've rebuilt several carbs before and have always used Seafoam for my parts soaker. I've used regular old, whatever carb cleaner for the short contact time cleaning. I've never had a problem with these two, but it never hurts to get other opinions.
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[corradolvr]

Okay, so here are some pics of the carbs. I decided to do a complete rebuild and thorough cleaning.

Thoroughly cleaned and inspected all the little parts. I was surprised to find some left over metal hangers from the drilling of the holes on the emulsion tubes.
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[corradolvr]

Okay. I'm getting ready to put these carbs back together. Any advice on the floats? I've rebuild plenty of carbs but never these ones that will be on an off road vehicle.
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[corradolvr]

Quick question. My new seats have holes in the sides. The originals didn't. Is that just for easier flow?
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[coonhunter]

I just did my carbs, mine had holes in the side as well. I put them back together, and can't tell a difference. As for the floats, I set mine at 10mm and 32mm, but I didn't have the most confindence about that part. So far they seem to be running just fine. I also added jet doctors, from what I read, you should consider them, this is the perfect time to add them.

[corradolvr]

Good call on the Jet Doctors. I think I might try to cook something up on my own. I've got tubing and such laying around.
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[corradolvr]

Alright, carbs are all back together and funky fresh. I guess the next thing I need to do is go back and check all the stuff that helps the car steer and stop. It's all new, but been sitting. After, I'll pop the carbs on and tune.
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[corradolvr]

Hey all,

I've got a Q. I need to clean out my fuel line. I thought I might just fill the line with fuel, cap at both ends, let it sit, then air hose it out.

Think that will work?

Got any better ideas?
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[dustymojave]

How best to clean your fuel line depends on what you feel needs to be cleaned out.

If it's old gas turned to varnish (and current alcohol-bearing gasolines turn to varnish in a REAL HURRY), then something like Berryman's B-12 Chemtool or other carb cleaner fluid would be good.

If it's rust in the line, then you need to approach that carefully. If it has light surface rust, then a mild rust remover acid would be good, but left in too long and it will eat the good steel as well as the rust.

In my vehicles when I open a fuel line, I cap or plug it off to keep out contaminants, dirt moisture, etc. If it will be disconnected for a few days, I like to blow it out with air. If it's expected to sit a long time, then fill it with oil using an oil squirt can before capping. Kerosene in an oil squirt can would be good for that. Diesel fuel is good for rust resistance, but absorbs moisture out of the air.
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Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[joescoolcustoms]

I do not clean fuel lines, I replace fuel lines. It is cheap to do, you will know it is new where the line is hidden and not 40 to 50 years old just waiting to start leaking and strand you. New and never look back.
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Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone

[corradolvr]

Thanks DM. I think it's probably maybe just evaporated newer fuel, but I've never cleaned it before. I guess i'll try the Berryman's.

I've had the same experience with the carb on my boat with the newer gas. Gotta rebuild it every year. It's easy on that though. Just one double barrel, not two.
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[corradolvr]

I thought about doing that JCC. I looked and at this point, it seems like it would be a pita to put a new one in. I thought about just running a steel braided one all the way back, or moving my gas tank to the back.

Would it be too scary to just run the line inside next to the tunnel? I don't really care If I can see it, just that it is clean and functions well.
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[joescoolcustoms]

The brakes are run right beside the driver in a metal line. The brakes are as important as the fuel line. Why not run it along with the brake line in steel tubing? Just as strong as original.

I re-run them through the tunnel with metal line and it usually takes me about 1 hour to completely do the job, with a small brake line style flare on the ends to provide holding ability for the fuel line. But I normally do it when the body is off.
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Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone

[dustymojave]

But a new steel fuel line installed in the tunnel will be loose to clang around. On a street car, it MAY be OK. On a car to be used offroad, I recommend against it.

Alongside the tunnel with clamps to hold the new tube in place is good. Long runs should definitely be steel tube, galvanized, not hose.
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Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[joescoolcustoms]

Since I usually move the shifter back on the tunnel and have that area open, I clamp the line in place there, then cut a hole opposite the peddles to re-inforce the clutch tube, I clamp the fuel line there too. And then add two zip ties through the E-brake opening area.

And weld/finish the access holes cut.
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Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone

[corradolvr]

That's what I thought about doing DM. Makes it easy to service and change if necessary. That's all I want. I really don't care if it's out in the open as long as it's not getting kicked, stepped on, or flopping around.

What's the standard size? I think I'll buy a roll tomorrow. I Know it really doesn't have to be metric, but when I started this project way back when, I told myself keep it all metric. It works out well too, because if I could only have one set for the rest of my life I could get by with only metric. I definitely like to use the right tool for the job, but metric just fits more stuff if you're in a pinch.
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[dustymojave]

Stock steel fuel line is 6mm. 6mm = 0.240", so very close to .250" or 1/4". I agree with Joe about putting a small bubble flare on the end of the tube for hose retention.

I use Adel clamps to hold the line in place.

There are other brands. It's like Kleenex or Heim joints (called Rose joint in England for the same reason) or Dzus buttons. The best known brand becomes the generic name for the type of product. I even had a girlfriend back in my bachelor days who's dad was production Manager for TA brand clamps.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.