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sledder_duner
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 5:09 pm    Post subject: my buggy and sons jeep Reply with quote

Here is a pic of my sand shark buggy and my sons 76 cj5 fiberglass body and 350 chevy powered.
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sledder_duner
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 5:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We were at bundy hill off road park in jerome michigan
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very cool! Had a 74 cj5, sold it a couple of years ago and still regret it.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 6:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey, if anybody here could lend some advice, I've been looking for a daily driver Wrangler for the past few months and havent had much luck. Everything I find has really high miles and a teenager lift job. I found a nice one on Craigslist and am going to look at it tomorrow. Just wondering if anybody here had any advice on what to look out for. The owner told me that he has a new, unused plow for it, which makes me a little nervous, as there could be a hidden frame crack from a rock or curb that he doesnt want to mention.

Thanks!
(First thing thats coming off is the dorked up aftermarket lights)
http://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/1464812662.html
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65BAJA
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure you keep an eye on the gauge cluster when you take it for a drive. The 97-00 TJs had some problems with how the wireing harness was supported behind the dash.
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Kirk
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 10:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bolski wrote:
Hey, if anybody here could lend some advice, I've been looking for a daily driver Wrangler for the past few months and havent had much luck. Everything I find has really high miles and a teenager lift job. I found a nice one on Craigslist and am going to look at it tomorrow. Just wondering if anybody here had any advice on what to look out for. The owner told me that he has a new, unused plow for it, which makes me a little nervous, as there could be a hidden frame crack from a rock or curb that he doesnt want to mention.

Thanks!
(First thing thats coming off is the dorked up aftermarket lights)
http://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/1464812662.html


I owned a 97. That year is prone to exhaust manifold failure. Check to see if its been replaced, or repaired. If repaired, knock a bunch off for that. Those crack bad. So if you start it and hear an exhaust leak, I bet thats it.
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Lord Helmet
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 10:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kirk wrote:
Bolski wrote:
Hey, if anybody here could lend some advice, I've been looking for a daily driver Wrangler for the past few months and havent had much luck. Everything I find has really high miles and a teenager lift job. I found a nice one on Craigslist and am going to look at it tomorrow. Just wondering if anybody here had any advice on what to look out for. The owner told me that he has a new, unused plow for it, which makes me a little nervous, as there could be a hidden frame crack from a rock or curb that he doesnt want to mention.

Thanks!
(First thing thats coming off is the dorked up aftermarket lights)
http://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/1464812662.html


I owned a 97. That year is prone to exhaust manifold failure. Check to see if its been replaced, or repaired. If repaired, knock a bunch off for that. Those crack bad. So if you start it and hear an exhaust leak, I bet thats it.


I believe most of the later models are prone to that (4.0L of course). From what I understand, if it hasn't cracked by 100k miles, it probably never will. Either way, it's an easy fix.

As mentioned, watch the gauges closely for problems in the cluster. Also, if it has A/C, make sure the systems function properly. Dash venst, defrost, floor, etc.

Someting that often gets overlooked, ask when the last time the diffs and transfer case were serviced. I think they need a fluid change every 60k. If it's ever in the mud or fording (sp?) streams, they need to be changed immediately after that too.

Don't be affraid of a late model automatic tranny. I believe it's a AW4 transmission (at least it is in the XJ's) and it's solid as an Ox. It's been highly debated that the AT's are more reliable than the MT's.

There are a few other things to look out for but I can't think of much right now. Visit Jeepforum.com for information overload. There is a staggering amount of info there.

The nice thing about Jeeps (like our VW's) is that they are usually pretty easy to work on. The parts are in abundance and fairly reasonable as well. Not to mention, a MASSIVE aftermarket support.

Good luck!
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grimace007
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

also check to see what kind of rear end you have...

believe it or not the Chrysler rear end is the better one

look for the rear differential to be flat on the bottom not rounded.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

grimace007 wrote:
also check to see what kind of rear end you have...

believe it or not the Chrysler rear end is the better one

look for the rear differential to be flat on the bottom not rounded.


My son runs Dana 44's in his off road/rock crawling Jeeps.
He also rebuilds them on the side.

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Lord Helmet
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

grimace007 wrote:
also check to see what kind of rear end you have...

believe it or not the Chrysler rear end is the better one

look for the rear differential to be flat on the bottom not rounded.


Absolutely. Chrys 8.25 is much stronger than the weak Dana 35.
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shano63 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check out this site, I'm on here as well. Lot's of knowledgeable people there and you don't need to own a rubi.
http://www.rubiconownersforum.com/phpbb3/index.php
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65BAJA
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 10:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lord Helmet wrote:
Kirk wrote:
Bolski wrote:
Hey, if anybody here could lend some advice, I've been looking for a daily driver Wrangler for the past few months and havent had much luck. Everything I find has really high miles and a teenager lift job. I found a nice one on Craigslist and am going to look at it tomorrow. Just wondering if anybody here had any advice on what to look out for. The owner told me that he has a new, unused plow for it, which makes me a little nervous, as there could be a hidden frame crack from a rock or curb that he doesnt want to mention.

Thanks!
(First thing thats coming off is the dorked up aftermarket lights)
http://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/1464812662.html


I owned a 97. That year is prone to exhaust manifold failure. Check to see if its been replaced, or repaired. If repaired, knock a bunch off for that. Those crack bad. So if you start it and hear an exhaust leak, I bet thats it.


I believe most of the later models are prone to that (4.0L of course). From what I understand, if it hasn't cracked by 100k miles, it probably never will. Either way, it's an easy fix.

As mentioned, watch the gauges closely for problems in the cluster. Also, if it has A/C, make sure the systems function properly. Dash venst, defrost, floor, etc.

Someting that often gets overlooked, ask when the last time the diffs and transfer case were serviced. I think they need a fluid change every 60k. If it's ever in the mud or fording (sp?) streams, they need to be changed immediately after that too.

Don't be affraid of a late model automatic tranny. I believe it's a AW4 transmission (at least it is in the XJ's) and it's solid as an Ox. It's been highly debated that the AT's are more reliable than the MT's.

There are a few other things to look out for but I can't think of much right now. Visit Jeepforum.com for information overload. There is a staggering amount of info there.

The nice thing about Jeeps (like our VW's) is that they are usually pretty easy to work on. The parts are in abundance and fairly reasonable as well. Not to mention, a MASSIVE aftermarket support.

Good luck!


The AW4 is a good transmission, but it never came in the TJs of any year. The AW4 is a XJ transmission.

And about the exhaust manifold, count on it being cracked. They (the 4.0L motor) all crack the manifold right where all the pipes come togeather. About the only exceptions to this may be the late split cast manifolds. I believe it was 01 or 02 when they started using those.
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Last edited by 65BAJA on Sat Nov 14, 2009 10:24 pm; edited 1 time in total
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65BAJA
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 10:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

grimace007 wrote:
also check to see what kind of rear end you have...

believe it or not the Chrysler rear end is the better one

look for the rear differential to be flat on the bottom not rounded.


The Crys 8.25" made from 91-96 had the same 27 spline size axles as the Model 35. Nice thing about the C8.25 was that the axle shafts didn't have the divit (weak point) in the axle right at the splines. Now about mid 97 they started using 29 spline axle shafts in the C8.25 making it almost as strong as the D44.

Unfortunately the C8.25 naver came in the TJ. The good news is that the D44 did.
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I'll finish it!... Some day....
Edit, I started in 2003 and still haven't built a driving Baja. lol
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Lord Helmet
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 11:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

65BAJA wrote:
Lord Helmet wrote:
Kirk wrote:
Bolski wrote:
Hey, if anybody here could lend some advice, I've been looking for a daily driver Wrangler for the past few months and havent had much luck. Everything I find has really high miles and a teenager lift job. I found a nice one on Craigslist and am going to look at it tomorrow. Just wondering if anybody here had any advice on what to look out for. The owner told me that he has a new, unused plow for it, which makes me a little nervous, as there could be a hidden frame crack from a rock or curb that he doesnt want to mention.

Thanks!
(First thing thats coming off is the dorked up aftermarket lights)
http://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/1464812662.html


I owned a 97. That year is prone to exhaust manifold failure. Check to see if its been replaced, or repaired. If repaired, knock a bunch off for that. Those crack bad. So if you start it and hear an exhaust leak, I bet thats it.


I believe most of the later models are prone to that (4.0L of course). From what I understand, if it hasn't cracked by 100k miles, it probably never will. Either way, it's an easy fix.

As mentioned, watch the gauges closely for problems in the cluster. Also, if it has A/C, make sure the systems function properly. Dash venst, defrost, floor, etc.

Someting that often gets overlooked, ask when the last time the diffs and transfer case were serviced. I think they need a fluid change every 60k. If it's ever in the mud or fording (sp?) streams, they need to be changed immediately after that too.

Don't be affraid of a late model automatic tranny. I believe it's a AW4 transmission (at least it is in the XJ's) and it's solid as an Ox. It's been highly debated that the AT's are more reliable than the MT's.

There are a few other things to look out for but I can't think of much right now. Visit Jeepforum.com for information overload. There is a staggering amount of info there.

The nice thing about Jeeps (like our VW's) is that they are usually pretty easy to work on. The parts are in abundance and fairly reasonable as well. Not to mention, a MASSIVE aftermarket support.

Good luck!


The AW4 is a good transmission, but it never came in the TJs of any year. The AW4 is a XJ transmission.

And about the exhaust manifold, count on it being cracked. They (the 4.0L motor) all crack the manifold right where all the pipes come togeather. About the only exceptions to this may be the late split cast manifolds. I believe it was 01 or 02 when they started using those.


Thanks for setting me straight. I wasn't sure if the TJ's had the AW4 or not. Very Happy

As for the exhaust manifold, my XJ was a '00. At 119k miles, when I got rid of it, it never did crack the manifold. Personally, I think I just got lucky.... which is unusual for me. Laughing
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Lord Helmet
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 11:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

65BAJA wrote:
grimace007 wrote:
also check to see what kind of rear end you have...

believe it or not the Chrysler rear end is the better one

look for the rear differential to be flat on the bottom not rounded.


The Crys 8.25" made from 91-96 had the same 27 spline size axles as the Model 35. Nice thing about the C8.25 was that the axle shafts didn't have the divit (weak point) in the axle right at the splines. Now about mid 97 they started using 29 spline axle shafts in the C8.25 making it almost as strong as the D44.

Unfortunately the C8.25 naver came in the TJ. The good news is that the D44 did.


Didn't the D44 only come in the Rubi's though?
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65BAJA
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 2:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lord Helmet wrote:
65BAJA wrote:
grimace007 wrote:
also check to see what kind of rear end you have...

believe it or not the Chrysler rear end is the better one

look for the rear differential to be flat on the bottom not rounded.


The Crys 8.25" made from 91-96 had the same 27 spline size axles as the Model 35. Nice thing about the C8.25 was that the axle shafts didn't have the divit (weak point) in the axle right at the splines. Now about mid 97 they started using 29 spline axle shafts in the C8.25 making it almost as strong as the D44.

Unfortunately the C8.25 naver came in the TJ. The good news is that the D44 did.


Didn't the D44 only come in the Rubi's though?


No, The 97-02 TJ's with the 30" tire option had a D44 rear end with 3:73 gears and a T/L limited slip. The Rubicon didn't start prpduction untill the '03 model year. The Rubicons have D44 axles front and rear with 4:10 gears and a selectable low pressure air locker.

The problem that I kinda don't like is the belly pan on the '03-'06 TJs were 2" deeper. As in 2" less ground clearance. My personal choice of TJs to build would be the '01 or'02 TJ with the factory D44 rear end. I believe these years would also have the stronger NV3550 5 spd trans. Unless of corse you opted for the auto.
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65BAJA
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lord Helmet wrote:
As for the exhaust manifold, my XJ was a '00. At 119k miles, when I got rid of it, it never did crack the manifold. Personally, I think I just got lucky.... which is unusual for me. Laughing


119K? Why did you get rid of it? That motor had another 200k left.
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Lord Helmet
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

65BAJA wrote:
Lord Helmet wrote:
As for the exhaust manifold, my XJ was a '00. At 119k miles, when I got rid of it, it never did crack the manifold. Personally, I think I just got lucky.... which is unusual for me. Laughing


119K? Why did you get rid of it? That motor had another 200k left.


Ahh, man thats a sore subject around my house. Let me start by saying I wish I could kick my own ass for getting rid of it. I would do anything to have it back now.

The problem was, when my wife and I got married about a year and a half ago, we were flat BROKE. At the time, gas was $4+ a gallon and as it was my daily driver, it was eating us alive. My wife was driving a POS '92 Accord w/250k miles on it and it was falling apart. Since we could only afford one car payment and the Accord did very well on gas, we traded the Jeep in for something more fuel efficient which is the '06 Fusion I have now.

Now that we're doing much beter financially (less than 6mos later I might add Rolling Eyes ), I could punch something every time I think about it.

To top off the irritation factor, now my wife is driving a sweet Mazda 3 hatch and we have no real need for 2 nice, fuel efficient vehicles.

There is a place here in Denver that specializes in low, low mileage XJ's. Wifey's given me the "ok" to sell the Fusion as soon as the Beetle is running and driving again and then I'll buy another XJ.

I actually test drove a CRD Liberty a couple weeks ago and if I can't find the right XJ, I'll get one of those. That CRD was awesome.

Like I said, it's a sore subject.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 10:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was just notified that my '98 Wrangler is in the need of a tranny / transfer case and possibly a rear diff. (there is a lot of noise vibrating around), and it may be a case of vibrations being picked up. So, at the moment I am looking at a $2700 bill (includes new clutch and flywheel resurfacing). So...what to do? I am not up for a $3K bill, nor am I up for another car payment. The kicker is, in a year, the Jeep was going to be handed over to our oldest, so he would have it and we wouldn't have to figure out the logistics of moving cross country with an additional vehicle.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you know which tranny, t/c, and rear end you have? Also, is it lifted? If it is, have you installed a slip yoke eliminator (SYE) kit in it? I'm going to guess your drive shaft is causing your vibrations. I find it hard to believe you need all 3 of those major components you listed at once. IF you have a Dana 35 rear end, that and the drive shaft are probably your weakest link.

Did you take it to a Jeep specialist/expert? I don't mean the stealership either. I mean a reputable private owned Jeep shop.
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