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Hehr Westfalia Jalousie Restoration ?'s
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Mr. Electric Wizard
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 7:38 am    Post subject: Hehr Westfalia Jalousie Restoration ?'s Reply with quote

Hey everyone,
I recently acquired some original jalousie windows (thanks Peter!), and I have some questions about some different aspects of putting them together.

1) Some of the clips that hold the windows in need to be repaced. These are riveted together, and I am going to need to drill out the rivets. Is there a certain tool that I should use to put the new rivits in?

2) I need to replace the mesh screen on the screen frames. Is there some type of window company that should be able to do this?

I can tell already that this is going to be a lot of work to get 6 working windows, but it will be soooo nice to have them installed in the bus.
I can't wait. Cool
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crofty
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can do the screens yourself-it's real easy. Any home improvement type store should have the screens and then all you would need is a screen installing tool (get the metal wheel style) and maybe some new cord. My local Ace hardware store can make screens for you as well.

There's a thread somewhere around here about restoring those windows. You'd be suprised how 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper, steel wool and some mothers polish will revitalize your windows.

You can get the cord putty seal at Home Depot as well. It goes in between the outter frame and inner frame.
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Mr. Electric Wizard
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 8:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Crofty, the screens sound easy.
However, the rivets and clips sounds like a PITA...
This is the only thing that really has me worried.
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crofty
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr. Electric Wizard wrote:
Thanks Crofty, the screens sound easy.
However, the rivets and clips sounds like a PITA...
This is the only thing that really has me worried.


I wouldn't like dealing with those either.
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Mr. Electric Wizard
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It does look like when the whole thing is disassembled, they should be fairly accessable though...
One can only hope... Laughing
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GhiaNut
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just had 5 screens done for me at the local hardware store for $20. I couldn't have bought the stuff to do it myself any cheaper.
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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those are just pop rivets. You can grind the heads with a dremel and pop them out. I don't drill them because they spin.

McMaster-Carr has stainless steel dome top rivets to replace the rusted galvanized ones currently on your windows. Slip a couple business cards or a piece of soft metal between the clip and the frame when squeezing the rivet. When you remove it, there should be just enough movement to allow the pivots to rotate.

Removing all the pivot clips will also allow you to do a good job polishing the frames, as well.

The article on renovating these windows is located on the Type2.com technical archive. While you are there, check out Eric&Barb's headlight switch rebuilding article. BTDT!!!

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good luck on the "resto" of them. Some parts are so delicately thin that I opted to keep buying "half sets" until I had a good set of 6 for the Dormy instead of trying to fix the bad ones. Took me a while though. Cool
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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 9:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone have a source for replacement of those little gray button sized bumpers that hold the glass inside the clips?
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Mr. Electric Wizard
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I heard from somewhere that Ronnie (aka Splitpile) sells those little grey bumpers.
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Last edited by Mr. Electric Wizard on Tue Jan 02, 2007 10:14 am; edited 1 time in total
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Mr. Electric Wizard
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, I guess I could use the Stainless Flat Head rivets from McMaster Carr right?
Do you have any idea what diameter I need, I'm thinking maybe 3/16".
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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You want the dome head, not flat head.
I don't remember the diameter or length.
They sell packs of 500, so you should be able to see off the excess. I would buy 100 of them from you.
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Mr. Electric Wizard
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It looks like I could use the "Blind" rivet type too...
That would make it easier to get them in I guess.
I will take some measurements and hopefully get something ordered soon.
No problem about selling you 100 when I get them.
I will let you know.
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tubdub
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 11:15 am    Post subject: jalousie Reply with quote

if 2 or 3 of the clips on 1 side are missing it would be alot easier to change that side of the frame. i have some extra parts available if you have any missing or broken parts other than the pieces that hold the windows that open .
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crofty
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 11:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr. Electric Wizard wrote:
I heard from somewhere that Ronnie (aka Splitpile) sells those little grey bumpers.


That's where I got mine.
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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr. Electric Wizard wrote:
It looks like I could use the "Blind" rivet type too...
That would make it easier to get them in I guess.


A "blind rivet" is just another word for a pop rivet. That is what the windows were originally assembled with. "Pop" rivet is a brand name, like Jello. You can get a rivet gun at Harbor Freight for next to nothing.

You can see on their site (catalog page 3154) that they list dome head, large flange style, and countersunk style. You would want the dome head, #18-8 stainless flange and mandrel version.

The use of a spacer is very important. Stainless rivets are very strong when in place, and there is no way your pane clips will ever pivot if you don't use a spacer when crimping. Ideally, a tiny thin bakelite or nylon washer would be perfect for use between the pivots and the frame, but I have not been able to find any. I don't believe any sort of washer or spacer was used originally.
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Mr. Electric Wizard
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I just ordered (2) 50 packs of stainless dome rivets.
3/16" diameter, 0.126"-0.250" length.
When I ordered them, I didn't see the correct tool so I called.
Well, they told me that since the stainless is so much stronger, and the length is up to 3/16" a heavier duty tool was needed (quite a bit more expensive).

As for the spacer, do you think by putting a washer or some kind of spacer between the two pieces, then installing the rivet and then taking the spacer back out would work?
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Mr. Electric Wizard
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got another guys...

I have an outer frame that does not have the wedge shaped piece that is screwed onto the bottom and spans the whole width of the frame (on the bottom). Whats wierd is that there is not even a hole for a screw.
The wedge piece I'm talking about is the one that the bottom of the screen sits against when the screen is installed...

Is this a year model difference thing?
Angled wedge piece vs. No Angled wedge piece?
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tubdub
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 4:50 pm    Post subject: pic Reply with quote

i think i had 1 flat one also and i just changed it for one of the extras i have so all mine would match. oh and i have at least 2 extras Laughing let me know if you are going to need one of them

Last edited by tubdub on Tue Jan 02, 2007 5:05 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr. Electric Wizard wrote:
Well I just ordered (2) 50 packs of stainless dome rivets.
3/16" diameter, 0.126"-0.250" length.
When I ordered them, I didn't see the correct tool so I called.
Well, they told me that since the stainless is so much stronger, and the length is up to 3/16" a heavier duty tool was needed (quite a bit more expensive).

As for the spacer, do you think by putting a washer or some kind of spacer between the two pieces, then installing the rivet and then taking the spacer back out would work?


1. Are you sure that 3/16 is the correct diameter? Mine looked more like 1/8".
2. The length sounds about right--1/8"-1/4" reach.
3. As to the spacer, my concern is this: the clips need to be able to move freely. They are super soft aluminum, and will scratch and bend easily. I don't see how you could put a hard metal spacer in there and then get it out without mangling the clip, gouging the frame or both. The good news is that you can experiment a little bit to see what works, and if you get one too tight, you can simply grind the head off and try something else until you come up with a method that results in a freely pivoting, non-mangled clip. It can even be a little wobbly, because the glass will hold it securely once it is in place.

For spacers, I would consider maybe using a pair of popsicle sticks, notched to surround the rivet shaft, and sanded super smooth so they will slide out ok.

Please take pictures as you go and post them up!

Are you going to polish your frames?
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