Hello! Log in or Register   |  Help  |  Donate  |  Buy Shirts See all banner ads | Advertise on TheSamba.com  
TheSamba.com
 
wing windows
Page: 1, 2, 3  Next
Forum Index -> Vanagon Share: Facebook Twitter
Reply to topic
Print View
Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
seanj
Samba Member


Joined: June 11, 2005
Posts: 54

seanj is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2005 10:00 am    Post subject: wing windows Reply with quote

anybody know how to tighten up the wing windows? mine flop in the breeze.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
r39o
Samba Polizei


Joined: May 18, 2005
Posts: 9800
Location: San Diego
r39o is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2005 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you need to stick a 5mm Allen wrench in the little hole next to where the pivot disappears into the door frame. There is a hole in the vent window seal for that.

BUT, if they really flap a lot, the white plastic pivot gizmo in the door may be broken. In that case you need a NEW one as you will most likely not be able to repair it. On that note, do NOT over tighten, as you can break the plastic. (Guess, who might have done that in the past?)

Sometimes if they get loose the white plastic gizmo also disengages from the vent window metal frame. Then the vent window sort of rocks back and forth. In that case you need to push it beck in. That only works well if the plastic tabs are not broken off.

I have some loose frames in storage and I am sure a picture would really help. I may post some later, if someone else does not steo up.

BTW: The white plastic pivot / tensioner is a generic part that fits many VWs of the 80's with vent windows. READ: That is used in A1's.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
lordsniff
Samba Member


Joined: April 12, 2005
Posts: 432
Location: atlanta
lordsniff is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2005 10:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did mine by taking the window out and as r39o says it was the plastic pivot tube had worn away . I hunted around til I found some plastic tubing the same size and fitted it over the pivot pin on the window .
My only problem was refitting the window as the new tubing was slightly oversize .
Remember when putting the window back in DO NOT use any force .The glass will likely shatter and it will cost you a lot more than the tiny piece of plastic . If it doesn't fit take it out , shave a bit off , put it back in until it does fit .
That's how I did mine , cost zilch , wind resistance 100% .
_________________
I was born at a very early age and it was such a shock I didn't speak for another 2 years .


______________________________________
87 Syncro
85 Gl
96 Dodge Ram V10
2001 Honda
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
r39o
Samba Polizei


Joined: May 18, 2005
Posts: 9800
Location: San Diego
r39o is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2005 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you need to take the vent window frame out:

What I like to do is to remove the vent glass first. Only the early vent windows can not easily be removed. The early ones are glued to the pivots and it would amaze me if the glue has not failed yet. You use a T15 or T20 Torx to remove the fasteners on the later ones. That way, with the glass out, you have little chance of breaking int. Don't forget the frame is held in with two fasteners. One at the top of the frame is a phillips screw under the door seal and the other is a 8mm headed little bolt or maybe a pop rivet. Once the fastners are out you can tilt the whole thing out starting at the top. Of course, you need to remove the roll up window firts. It will take time to do this job.

BTW: Some foks just put in fixed windows from the earliest vans. NOT ME, though. IT gets too hot around here.

Is this something for BTDT Been There, Done That) publication?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
msinabottle
Samba Member


Joined: September 20, 2005
Posts: 3492
Location: Denver Area, Colorado
msinabottle is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2006 9:48 pm    Post subject: What hole? What plastic? Reply with quote

I did look on Winston, who also has very loose wing windows, what I'd call 'cat ears,' and the Brits in the Haynes call 'quarter windows.' I could find no hole under the window trim, and the pin seems to be metal as far down as I could lift it with the wing window glass out. You can remove that easily in Winston--he's an '84 Westy--with a #20 Torx.

I did ask my friend the gearhead, he said that the older system (not necessarily for VW's) was a friction nut at the bottom of the lower pin, below a spring, that one could tighten to provide additional friction if the wing window was flapping. Only way to get at that would be to remove the door panel. Anyone want to add anything?

BTW--gotta love the Bentley and the Haynes. The diagram both show of the front door being disassembled has the lower pin of the wing window obscured by the main window's rail. Gee, thanks a bunch, fellahs.

Best!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Turambar
Samba Member


Joined: August 24, 2005
Posts: 71

Turambar is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2006 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a diagram that came with my 91 GL when I bought it.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.




T
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
r39o
Samba Polizei


Joined: May 18, 2005
Posts: 9800
Location: San Diego
r39o is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2006 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, that's the later system. I will drive mine later (no door panels) and take a look. Mine work great. I'll see what setup my 85 has then.

-W
_________________
"Use the SEARCH, Luke" But first visit the Vanagon FAQ!

1990 Multivan EJ 22, Rancho trans 0.82 4th, Small Car front AC, CLKs w/ 215/65-16, homemade big brakes 303mm, Konis, Recaros, etc....

Click to see my ads for Cup holders, Subaru clutch fix and CLK wheels (no wheels currently)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
r39o
Samba Polizei


Joined: May 18, 2005
Posts: 9800
Location: San Diego
r39o is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a bad picture of my clamp in my 85. (It's VERY hard to take a picture of that up in there.) Notice they give you no hole to adjust the clamp! Nice, eh? I think mine works so good because the rust keeps thing just so. By design I bet! So if your's is loose, you should first take a mirror and look up there. Maybe, just maybe, you could get a little wrench on it. Look at the fastner number 9 above. It looks like a hex head, maybe. Or drill a hole and use a screw driver. Otherwise you will have to take the assembly out. What a pain. The ones with the plastic are easier to adjust, BUT, tend to get loose easy too.

Good luck....

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
"Use the SEARCH, Luke" But first visit the Vanagon FAQ!

1990 Multivan EJ 22, Rancho trans 0.82 4th, Small Car front AC, CLKs w/ 215/65-16, homemade big brakes 303mm, Konis, Recaros, etc....

Click to see my ads for Cup holders, Subaru clutch fix and CLK wheels (no wheels currently)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
msinabottle
Samba Member


Joined: September 20, 2005
Posts: 3492
Location: Denver Area, Colorado
msinabottle is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 1:36 pm    Post subject: Thank you! Reply with quote

First of all, thank you for going to all that trouble to post that diagram and take that picture.

You CAN remove the glass pretty easily in Winston... And you can press that pin down quite a bit when you've done that. Perhaps then you get to that screw, which I'll just bet is a Torx, like the glass screws.

I'll pull his door panels next week and let you all know how it goes.

Best!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
msinabottle
Samba Member


Joined: September 20, 2005
Posts: 3492
Location: Denver Area, Colorado
msinabottle is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2007 6:35 pm    Post subject: Winston's Wobbly Wing Windows: Wincing, Wrenching, Winning Reply with quote

Well, I got Winston's driver side wing window fixed. My hands are scraped and raw, and the job took me four hours, but I did finally get it done. IT IS NOT EASY. But my suffering can serve to prevent others from going through what I did, so I'll describe how I managed it.

All right... The first thing I did was to use a Torx #20 and take off the wing window glass itself--no sense in shattering that, no matter what happened afterwards. I pulled curiously at the lower pin on which the window rotates--and it came out in my hand. Aha. From the diagram above and what you can find on the EKTA, I knew there was supposed to be a long rectangular clip on that pin.

So, as I'd planned, off came the door panel, after the window handle, door handle, where the armrest had been, and the lower door vent, which I discovered had a big hole in it. I soaked all the smaller plastic parts I took off in Dawn in the sink, and oiled down the vinyl of the door panel, once I'd popped THAT off, with baby oil. That's an old restorer's trick for aging vinyl and plastic. Those tools you use to reach in and pop off the door panels? They're worth it. And always have a few extra fasteners on hand, although I only lost one this time. It's the same fastener you use to hold the rubber strip on a chrome rear bumper.

All right... That clip had to be somewhere... I removed the lower vapor barrier, and reached around with my fingers until I'd found it. That was a break. The clip is a spring, with a threaded hole at the back and a large unthreaded hole at the front. I never did find the original screw, which is listed on the EKTA as a 'Self-Locking Screw.' I knew I'd have to improvise, and I knew that would be trouble.

I took the clip to the hardware store where they sold me the shortest #5 Metric 8 mm. hex-head screw they had that would fit through the threaded rear hole on the clip. I had a feeling it was still too long. I bet the original screw's got a tapered lower end and an ogive out of that, because getting the replacement screw cut shorter and threaded in took me two fun-filled hours.

Here's what you have to do--you can see the assembled version of the whole thing if you look up at that picture, but it's a lot harder to get it together, on an '84, at least, than the diagram or that photo makes clear--and there is NOTHING in the Bentley or the Haynes or EKTA about what you have to do.

What it took me the rest of the time to learn was this: The round lower pin for the window goes in place. The clip goes over the shaft of that, and then slides, the longer side out, onto a little steel tab hanging down from the top of the inner door molding. There is a hole through the tab that the screw goes through before it threads into the back of the clip and locks the entire assembly together.

There is no real way at all to see what you are doing. There is no way to use a screwdriver, the only way to tighten the screw in place is with a wrench--and the screw will have to be threaded with two fingers by touch. Does that sound hard?

IT IS.

I did a few smart things. I got a magnetic pick-up, because that bolt kept dropping down to the bottom of the door as I tried and fumbled attempting to thread it. I got a small metal hook on a long handle (also useful in fishing for wire ends) to check if the clip was lined up with the hole in the tab. With the pin pushed down and onto the clip, the holes are fairly close to aligned. You can use pressure on the pin to manipulate the clip a bit.

By angling the pin, I could create a bit more room to get the screw through the big hole in the clip, then the hole in the tab--but getting it to thread into the far side of the clip was horrible. There are sharp-edged moldings all over the place, and you can only get two fingers into that work space at a time. A screw with a tapered end and an ogive would have been a lot easier to thread through those three holes blind. But I didn't have one. The screw I had was too long to fit into the little gap there was, at first, so I 'dremeled' off the lower three threads.

If you can get the screw JUST started, by using the pin as a lever and pushing up, ANOTHER little metal tab that's been in your way the whole time suddenly starts holding the screw against the final threaded hole in the clip while you grope in there with a wrench and start tightening the screw. I was cut and cutting myself to ribbons by the time I got to that stage, but with prayers and patience the screw finally slipped home. I had put some Blue Loc-Tite on it, but the screw kept falling into the gunk at the bottom of the door, I don't know how much of the Loc-Tite survived.

I put the glass back onto the upper and lower pins once it was clear--two hours in--that the screw had threaded onto the clip. With the screw tightened all the way, the wing window wouldn't move at all. I backed off just a bit, and the result was very stiff, which was what I wanted for the air flow.

I took a few extra moments to tape a new piece of plastic film over the hole whoever installed Winston's Pioneer radio had cut in the vapor barrier inside the door. They had left the piece of plastic they'd cut in place, which would flap with the most ANNOYING sound whenever I had Winston on the highway at speed. As I put the door back together, I pushed the back of the speaker against the plastic until I could screw it back into place--hopefully, that'll put paid to the flapping.

I also took a moment to use Dogpilot's drill and J.B. Weld up the big hole in the door vent assembly. I can see how that happened, it's just where a careless toe would clobber it good as you swung yourself into the van. The J.B. Weld is setting against a piece of Aluminum Tape right now, it should be dry by tomorrow noon, at which time I can pull off the tape and have a smooth patch. I am looking forward to being cooler in the cockpit this summer.

And I am very tired.
_________________
'Winston,' '84 1.9 WBX Westy
Vanagon Poet Laureate: "I have suffered in
many ways, but never, never, never in silence."
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
EricD
Samba Member


Joined: November 06, 2006
Posts: 86
Location: Seattle, WA
EricD is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2007 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Turambar's diagram is a source of great aggravation for me right now. I have the same one with parts to the latch priced out. I am currently waiting for the special $15 screw (part 11 on the diagram).

Here's why I need it: I needed a new latch because some idiot (that would be me) threw away the old latch when cleaning up after the car was broken into by smashing the driver's side vent window. Bastards took our stereo and at least $1000 worth of camping gear. They also took our trip journal - why would they take that? Anyways, in the interest of time, we decided to fork over the cash to have Speedy Glass do the repair. The new glass was over $180, $220 installed. I somehow assumed that price for such a small piece of glass included a latch - WRONG! So I wound up calling around to salvage yards (which I didn't do in the first place because I needed a 24 hour repair) and found one at Absolute German in south Seattle. They had a latch for me, and they made me take the glass too, all for $20. Ironic. So I got the latch off the salvaged glass and installed it on our new window...thought I was done.

Next day on my way to work the window whistled on the freeway. Guy at Speedy tells me it's because the latch was not tight enough. That night I go to tighten the latch, and what do you know, I shear the head off of screw number 11. Ugh. I call up the manager of the N. Seattle Speedy, who has been very helpfu, and he says their downtown store has a box of misc. German parts that might include what I need. He also suggested I call the dealer. I call the dealer - these parts are expensive - part 3a, which I now have a sheared off screw stuck in, is $68. So I head downtown - no special screw. But I do find another part 3a with a sheared off screw stuck in it...okay that makes me feel a little better about breaking the part. They gave it to me for free. Now I had a backup for my screw extraction operation - I was not going to pay for that part new. Good thing I had a back up because I broke one easy out trying to extract the screws. I had success with one, though. So here I sit, waiting for a $15 screw that is backordered in Germany, 10 days after the break in and over $250 in the hole.

Do I have more to contribute than just a rant? Yes. Be careful you don't break those parts because they are very expensive to replace.

Also, I have a driver side vent glass piece. It is untinted and doesn't match our van, so I'd be willing to part with it for the cost of shipping if anyone is in need.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
mad.macs
Samba Member


Joined: August 17, 2007
Posts: 230
Location: Woolwich Maine
mad.macs is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow. Adjusting the wing window tension is a lot harder than it needs to be. I tightend mine down as far as it would go and it still wasn't quite enough.

There is a little bend in the threaded side of the clip that prevents tightning it as far as I needed. I pulled the clip out and bent that lip flat.
Geting the clip back in and the screw threaded was a bit of a trick as well. I wound up putting the hinge pin back in the clip, so I would have better control while trying to thread the screw in.

Seriously, couldn't they have done this the other way around?
_________________
'84 Rivi Vanagon Auto Trans, Stock WBX
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
PDXWesty
Samba Member


Joined: April 11, 2006
Posts: 6235
Location: Portland OR
PDXWesty is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would adding a thin rubber washer at either of the hinge points help? It would increase friction and keep it from flopping, similar to the mirror fix.
I imagine things get worn and loose after so many years.
_________________
89 Westy 2.1 Auto
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
POS
Samba Member


Joined: December 27, 2004
Posts: 285
Location: In a bus, down by the river in Boonville MO
POS is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 12:38 pm    Post subject: vent windows Reply with quote

I've been using a bungee to hold mine open for years.

I'm starting to feel glad that I've not tried to repair this.

David
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message AIM Address Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Hallvalla
Samba Member


Joined: May 05, 2009
Posts: 224
Location: Oakland, CA
Hallvalla is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 2:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

PDXWesty wrote:
Would adding a thin rubber washer at either of the hinge points help? It would increase friction and keep it from flopping, similar to the mirror fix.
I imagine things get worn and loose after so many years.


I did exactly this and it works great.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1...p;start=20
_________________
85 Westy
Subaru EJ22
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
DAIZEE
Samba Member


Joined: January 26, 2010
Posts: 7552
Location: Greater Toronto Area Ontario West Side
DAIZEE is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 4:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mine seem firm enough but at high speeds will flip back to 1/4 open. Slower speeds can direct air at me. I rigged a lasso on the control, run it outside and around back in and tie it to my door handle. I really only need the flow when its hot and I only feel hot when I'm moving very slowly so its not a problem yet for me. Like the bungy cord, may try that.
_________________
'09 2.5L Jetta 5 cylinder, 5 spd, super turbo, see thread in H2O Cooled Jetta, etc...
83.5 Vanagon L Riviera Model with 98 1.9L TD AAZ 4 speed Daily Driver 3 out of 4 seasons (sold)
84 Vanagon GL Wolfsburg Westy WBX 4 speed (sold)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Facebook Gallery Classifieds Feedback
mariusstrom
Samba Member


Joined: March 29, 2010
Posts: 745

mariusstrom is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Related: Is there any fore/aft adjustment mechanism for these? After doing the new wing seals on my driver's door, it's pretty obvious that the wing vent window sits too far back. It was totally fine in the old seals, and I've double-checked that the seal is installed correctly.

I think this may be the cause of my new-found whistling window. argh.
_________________
Marius Strom Otto: 1988 Vanagon Syncro Westy Camper
[SOLD] Felix: 1967 Deluxe Beetle
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Reckless Amateur
Samba Member


Joined: March 16, 2009
Posts: 218
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Reckless Amateur is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 4:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I resurrected this post because the pin in my vent window latch (#7 in the diagram above) just fell out and now I have a really nice whistling vent window. Any suggestions about finding or making a replacement pin? (I was sort of thinking paperclip?). Shocked to see that replacement latches run in the $130 range.
_________________
91 Bostig-powered Westy (automatic)
Philadelphia, PA
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
syncrodoka
Samba Member


Joined: December 27, 2005
Posts: 11998
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
syncrodoka is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That roll pin is 2mmx14mm.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Crankey
Samba Member


Joined: July 11, 2004
Posts: 2652

Crankey is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 4:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

my #7 pin is problematic too. it works it's way out when you rotate the lock. I pulled it apart to see if I could do anything. all I ended up doing is putting it back together as it was and it still gets shoved out when you work the latch.

I feel like I should replace it with a small screw/nut.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Display posts from previous:   
Reply to topic    Forum Index -> Vanagon All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time
Page: 1, 2, 3  Next
Page 1 of 3

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

About | Help! | Advertise | Donate | Premium Membership | Privacy/Terms of Use | Contact Us | Site Map
Copyright © 1996-2023, Everett Barnes. All Rights Reserved.
Not affiliated with or sponsored by Volkswagen of America | Forum powered by phpBB
Links to eBay or other vendor sites may be affiliate links where the site receives compensation.