Engine cuts out while running!!!

[Leocoupe]

Maybe I can get some ideas here, new to this so I have a 63 bus with a 1600. Last night I drive my car around the block, like I do every couple of days. While driving, it shut off. Then the engine doesn't turn over anymore and all my lights don't work. So I didn't have any electrical. Nothing. No click or turnover no nothing. Then after like five minutes the engine starts up again like nothing ever happen! Then the engines cuts off again like in ten minutes. Tried check all my connections from my battery all the way to my ignition switch. I check it all the connections!!! Need some help thanks

[BarryL]

Can you borrow a know working battery just so you can eliminate some weirdness inside the battery being the Gremlin?

[Eric&Barb]

Really doubt that the battery will go from fully running, to zero output, to fully running. Would suspect battery cables first.

Check all the connections again and not only up to just the ignition switch. Also check that both the ground cables are clean, tight, and apply dielectric grease to all connections.
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[Eric&Barb]

This type of battery clamp that is used to repair old battery cables is junk in the long run. You want a gas tight swedged connection between the cable and the clamp. Having this part bolted/clamped onto the end of the old cable results in oxygen and battery acid getting into the connection. Which in turn causes corrosion and random voltage flow. You can take that clamp apart to clean it out, but you will have to do that about once or twice a year.

Get new battery cables from Wolfsburg West. Clamps are made of much better and longer lasting brass and are both swedged onto the cable ends and soldered for extra no acid getting between the parts protection.
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[Leocoupe]

I have replace the battery a month ago. I was thinking if it could possibly be my solenoid or my voltage regulator???

[Leocoupe]

I have check all cables going to the battery to the cables going from the battery

[BarryL]

[Eric&Barb]

[olliehank47]

Complete loss of power as you describe, that reappears after a few minutes, points away from the battery as the suspect but does point to a bad connection--either power or ground. The fact that the failure happens after a time of warm running points to a heat related break in a major power circuit--one that goes away when cool. Heat causes expansion of connections as well as resistance in circuits, both of which can interrupt current flow. Poor grounds will cause the same effect, so be certain that all major grounding points are clean and tight, as described below.

There are three main areas to check for power interruption, and by check I mean pull them apart, clean all mating surfaces, apply dielectric grease, and reconnect ensuring a tight fit. The three main areas that would cut off all power as you describe are:

1. Battery positive terminal and all cable connections to it. Eric&Barb have already posted a good picture.

2. Starter solenoid lug which connects to the battery cable and the heavy red wire that goes to the fuse block. This wire supplies all power to your bus. If the connection at the solenoid is bad, all power will be lost to your bus.

Here is a typical view. Notice the large cable from the battery, the smaller red wire to the fuse block, and the red/black wire from the voltage regulator are all connected on the lug, separately. Yours may be a bit different, but this is the area to check.

3. The joint connection for fuse #1 at the fuse block where the power supply from the solenoid connection joins with the wire to your ignition switch. If the joint connection is bad, power to everything powered through the ignition switch will fail.

There is an outside chance that your new battery has a bad internal connection to either the positive or negative post. This is very rare, but needs to be considered once you have checked (as described above) all electrical connections and grounds which could shut off all power at once.

[Harleyelf]

Ollie speaks with wisdom. The starter solenoid has a stack of copper lugs on it, one of which carries current to the lights and engine. For several systems to fail at the same moment, their shared connection must be compromised. Could just as well be the battery ground cable where it connects to the frame.