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khalimadeath
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 6:18 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

On most vehicles you would weld it on the downpipe after the headers join.. These exhausts don't lend themselves to 02 sensors well.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 6:31 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I'd go as close to the muffler as possible to prevent skewed readings from reversion, maybe pointing straight back?
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 8:41 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
I'd go as close to the muffler as possible to prevent skewed readings from reversion, maybe pointing straight back?


Agreed, just give it enough room at the muffler so that you can install one of the snap on shields.
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sestino
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 7:14 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

RE: Is this a good place to weld the bung for my O2 sensor?

Thanks for the advice. I'll try to get it welded closer to the muffler and further away from the exhaust tip.

Wildthings, what are the snap on shields you refer to?

The Innovate instructions (pasted below) also say to have the sensor 24 inches down the header (in a typical application), and they say that the overly lean readings with shorty headers occur at low speeds:

2.3 Sensor Placement
Optimum bung placement will vary from application to application, but using the guideline below will ensure the longest sensor life with the most accurate readings. Using a bung is the preferred method for mounting the oxygen sensor in all applications.

Weld the bung at least 24 inches downstream of the exhaust port
outlet (after the collector),
or 24 inches after the turbocharger if so
equipped. The bung should be welded before the X or H pipe if so
equipped.

Using a clock as reference, mount the bung between the 9:00
o’clock and 3:00 o’clock position. Welding the bung in the lower
section of the exhaust pipe can result in sensor damage caused by
condensation making contact with the sensor’s internal heating
element.


A 1” bung (provided in the kit) will best protect the sensor. When
fully threaded, the sensor’s tip will sit flush with the exhaust pipe, this
does not adversely effect the readings.

The bung should always be welded before the Catalytic Converter.
Welding the bung after the catalytic converter will skew the readings
toward lean. The skew in readings will vary with engine load and the
efficiency of the catalytic converter....

Exhaust leaks, camshaft overlap, and open (shorty) exhausts will
cause false lean readings at light engine loads. Typically, once the
engine is under load and the exhaust gas volume increases, you will
see accurate readings.


When installed in the exhaust, the oxygen sensor must be connected
to a powered, functional MTX-L (no error codes) whenever the
engine is running. An un-powered sensor will be damaged in a short
period of time when exposed to exhaust gas.

Do not pre-warm the sensor before starting the engine, simply start
the engine as normal. Allowing the sensor to pre-warm before
starting the engine will increase the possibility of damaging the
sensor from shock-cooling.

The maximum temperature of the sensor at the bung (the sensor
mounting location) should not exceed 500 o
C or 900 F. If these temperatures are exceeded in your application you should install the Innovate Motorsports HBX-1 heat sink bung extender. (p/n 3729.)




Thanks.
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Thrasher22
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 8:57 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I feel very dumb asking this one, but I want to be sure so I don't spend a bunch of time chasing issues later.

I'm going through my engine and cleaning up the wiring (and everything), and there are a couple extra grounds on the engine. One is from the block to the body (near the aux battery relay), and one is from the top of the block to the bottom...

The wires look like they're from old lamp cord so they're not stock, am I right to assume these aren't needed?
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 9:10 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thrasher22 wrote:
I feel very dumb asking this one, but I want to be sure so I don't spend a bunch of time chasing issues later.

I'm going through my engine and cleaning up the wiring (and everything), and there are a couple extra grounds on the engine. One is from the block to the body (near the aux battery relay), and one is from the top of the block to the bottom...

The wires look like they're from old lamp cord so they're not stock, am I right to assume these aren't needed?

Most likely, doesn't sound like something VW put there. Pics would be the final answer.
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Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 11:18 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

sestino wrote:
RE: Is this a good place to weld the bung for my O2 sensor?

Thanks for the advice. I'll try to get it welded closer to the muffler and further away from the exhaust tip.

Wildthings, what are the snap on shields you refer to?


They are just what they sound like, a snap on shield to protect the sensor and wiring from radiant heat.

Quote:
The Innovate instructions (pasted below) also say to have the sensor 24 inches down the header (in a typical application), and they say that the overly lean readings with shorty headers occur at low speeds:

2.3 Sensor Placement
Optimum bung placement will vary from application to application, but using the guideline below will ensure the longest sensor life with the most accurate readings. Using a bung is the preferred method for mounting the oxygen sensor in all applications.

Weld the bung at least 24 inches downstream of the exhaust port
outlet (after the collector),
or 24 inches after the turbocharger if so
equipped. The bung should be welded before the X or H pipe if so
equipped.

Using a clock as reference, mount the bung between the 9:00
o’clock and 3:00 o’clock position. Welding the bung in the lower
section of the exhaust pipe can result in sensor damage caused by
condensation making contact with the sensor’s internal heating
element.


A 1” bung (provided in the kit) will best protect the sensor. When
fully threaded, the sensor’s tip will sit flush with the exhaust pipe, this
does not adversely effect the readings.

The bung should always be welded before the Catalytic Converter.
Welding the bung after the catalytic converter will skew the readings
toward lean. The skew in readings will vary with engine load and the
efficiency of the catalytic converter....

Exhaust leaks, camshaft overlap, and open (shorty) exhausts will
cause false lean readings at light engine loads. Typically, once the
engine is under load and the exhaust gas volume increases, you will
see accurate readings.


When installed in the exhaust, the oxygen sensor must be connected
to a powered, functional MTX-L (no error codes) whenever the
engine is running. An un-powered sensor will be damaged in a short
period of time when exposed to exhaust gas.

Do not pre-warm the sensor before starting the engine, simply start
the engine as normal. Allowing the sensor to pre-warm before
starting the engine will increase the possibility of damaging the
sensor from shock-cooling.

The maximum temperature of the sensor at the bung (the sensor
mounting location) should not exceed 500 o
C or 900 F. If these temperatures are exceeded in your application you should install the Innovate Motorsports HBX-1 heat sink bung extender. (p/n 3729.)




Thanks.


The instructions don't apply very well to VW boxer engine as the VW exhaust flow from the various cylinders comes together within the muffler and not before it, except in some later setups. You don't have to worry about open headers and such because you don't have them. On most VW boxer engines, you are going to be limited to installing the sensor either into the muffler or into the tail pipe.
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eche_bus
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 5:29 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Type 4 engine oil drain plug crush washer: My new ones are copper, shaped like O-rings (rounded on both sides), but have a seam on one side. is there a "correct" orientation to best prevent leaks?
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ewdb92
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 5:50 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

eche_bus wrote:
Type 4 engine oil drain plug crush washer: My new ones are copper, shaped like O-rings (rounded on both sides), but have a seam on one side. is there a "correct" orientation to best prevent leaks?


Don't have type 4 engine, but the washer sounds very much like the one on my 1600. I usually put the seam up without any issues. I've sometimes reused them and then I put the seam down, again without issues. So I'm not sure it matters. I'd like to see what others think though.
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Thrasher22
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2016 9:57 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
Thrasher22 wrote:
I feel very dumb asking this one, but I want to be sure so I don't spend a bunch of time chasing issues later.

I'm going through my engine and cleaning up the wiring (and everything), and there are a couple extra grounds on the engine. One is from the block to the body (near the aux battery relay), and one is from the top of the block to the bottom...

The wires look like they're from old lamp cord so they're not stock, am I right to assume these aren't needed?

Most likely, doesn't sound like something VW put there. Pics would be the final answer.


I already pulled the wires, I guess a better question would be, how should the engine be properly grounded to the body? It doesn't seem obvious when I'm looking, which means it's probably not done correctly...
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Thrasher22
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2016 10:05 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thrasher22 wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
Thrasher22 wrote:
I feel very dumb asking this one, but I want to be sure so I don't spend a bunch of time chasing issues later.

I'm going through my engine and cleaning up the wiring (and everything), and there are a couple extra grounds on the engine. One is from the block to the body (near the aux battery relay), and one is from the top of the block to the bottom...

The wires look like they're from old lamp cord so they're not stock, am I right to assume these aren't needed?

Most likely, doesn't sound like something VW put there. Pics would be the final answer.


I already pulled the wires, I guess a better question would be, how should the engine be properly grounded to the body? It doesn't seem obvious when I'm looking, which means it's probably not done correctly...


Never mind, phrasing it this way made me think of a better way to look this up, and learned that my transmission is supposed to have a grounding strap. That's probably what I need to sort out Smile
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2016 10:06 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thrasher22 wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
Thrasher22 wrote:
I feel very dumb asking this one, but I want to be sure so I don't spend a bunch of time chasing issues later.

I'm going through my engine and cleaning up the wiring (and everything), and there are a couple extra grounds on the engine. One is from the block to the body (near the aux battery relay), and one is from the top of the block to the bottom...

The wires look like they're from old lamp cord so they're not stock, am I right to assume these aren't needed?

Most likely, doesn't sound like something VW put there. Pics would be the final answer.


I already pulled the wires, I guess a better question would be, how should the engine be properly grounded to the body? It doesn't seem obvious when I'm looking, which means it's probably not done correctly...

Braided strap at the nose of the transmission connected to the control arm bracket on the torsion tube. But it doesn't hurt to add a bonus one somewhere else if you feel the need.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2016 10:29 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Cool, thanks Bus Daddy! I'll take a better look and make sure it's where it should be tonight, I don't remember seeing one, but I could have missed it.
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Finbay
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2016 6:38 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Hello,

I have bought 1970 Westfalia camper, but somebody has already started to disassembly everything and I dont know how to assembly/operate the rear seat. Can somebody send me photos of the rear seat assembly, from top to bottom? Pictures needed from the mounting to floor, cabinets, and the back rest, etc....

I am from Finland and there are few Westfalias here, but not single one that I personally would know. My car is originally from Ontario,Canada but it has been here from year 1972.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2016 6:55 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Finbay wrote:
Hello,

I have bought 1970 Westfalia camper, but somebody has already started to disassembly everything and I dont know how to assembly/operate the rear seat. Can somebody send me photos of the rear seat assembly, from top to bottom? Pictures needed from the mounting to floor, cabinets, and the back rest, etc....

I am from Finland and there are few Westfalias here, but not single one that I personally would know. My car is originally from Ontario,Canada but it has been here from year 1972.


Pics here are from a 71 but they should be very similar to yours, if not the same.

https://zerotosixtyeventually.wordpress.com/2014/03/29/replacing-the-rear-seatbed-hinges/
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Thrasher22
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:50 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Back again... I have zero ohms resistance between the primary on my ignition coil, does that mean it's kicked the bucket?

I'm pretty sure it does, but it worked before I took it out a week ago to paint the fan shroud, so I don't know why it would fail in that time.

And it's my 2nd coil this year...
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2016 12:16 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thrasher22 wrote:
Back again... I have zero ohms resistance between the primary on my ignition coil, does that mean it's kicked the bucket?

I'm pretty sure it does, but it worked before I took it out a week ago to paint the fan shroud, so I don't know why it would fail in that time.

And it's my 2nd coil this year...


Got you meter zeroed accurately?
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Thrasher22
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2016 1:10 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
Thrasher22 wrote:
Back again... I have zero ohms resistance between the primary on my ignition coil, does that mean it's kicked the bucket?

I'm pretty sure it does, but it worked before I took it out a week ago to paint the fan shroud, so I don't know why it would fail in that time.

And it's my 2nd coil this year...


Got you meter zeroed accurately?


It's digital, so I "think" it should be fine. I get 6.8ohm on the secondary winding.

UPDATE: I tracked down another coil locally and it's not the problem.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2016 5:06 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Another question: I accidentally dropped my fuel pressure regulator in a bucket of water, could that cause damage? I immediately pulled it out, drained it, and put it in the sun to dry, and didn't install it for a few days after.

I'm trying to eliminate all the reasons my engine wont' start again after taking everything out to fix some electrical gremlins and seal my tin.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2016 7:22 am    Post subject: Turn signal cancelling cam question Reply with quote

Hi all
Thanx for looking
Is the cancelling cam that is part of the steering wheel on the opposite side of the turn signal switch or on the same side while the steering wheel is in the straight ahead position?
Hope it makes sense Question
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