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Scat Crankshaft / Flywheel Fit
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modok
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2016 7:41 pm    Post subject: Re: Scat Crankshaft / Flywheel Fit Reply with quote

I can't find it either, rather scattered here and there I guess.
Yes a straight flute reamer for steel, no pilot. Or you can get one with a pilot section and cut that off, that's what I do sine I'm using all old valve guide reamers.

One thing you can do, like Seth was saying, use black marker or similar on the holes and fit it on partway, and hopefully SEE where it is interfering, then go after that with a chainsaw file, (which is just a round file, 1/4" diameter probably).



The only trouble with that, is the counter bore in the flywheel itself will be a tight fit on the crank too, so it is possible to have the the dowels matched up ok, but when it gets on the crank it might go sideways if the counterbore is pushing it to one side when it gets there. I've fought that a few times, and discovered the pattern in stock flywheels is often not perfect. It became VERY apparent when I borrowed a SPG drilling jig that piloted on the old holes, so if the old holes are not centered, the new ones won't be either.
My jig is a tight fit in the flywheel so the pattern will come out centered, and, I think that's the way to go. I did a several in a row came out perfect with that, but it's not SPG< it's evenly spaced holes!!
So because of all that mess, ultimately, the only way to make it perfect, FOR SURE, is to drill and ream the holes in the flywheel and crank at the same time, so you KNOW they are perfectly in line. I had some success also pulling the dowels and then using .312 rods to see which holes are aligned and which aren't, but it's hit or miss. using a drill press for this, also hit and miss. Milling machine is a LOT more stable.

If you do get a reamer, then you can probably make a dowel pin puller, as making the hole is the hardest part. I used rocker shafts Razz
-top you see a fixture for holding a crank to mount it to a drill press table
-middle is drill fixture and a type of flywheel remover.
-just to the right is the dowel pin puller
-jsut to the left is half a gland nut with stud and washer for bolting crank to flywheel while drilling.
-ah, well, theres a lot of tools, ect, ect,
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I don't mean to say you have to make it perfect, but hopefully give you some ideas at least, and know you are not alone, others have suffered far more than you in this pursuit
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borninabus
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2016 7:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Scat Crankshaft / Flywheel Fit Reply with quote

serously, this has been an issue for SCAT for a long time.
why hasn't anyone told them?
and if so, why haven't they fixed it Question

p.s. modok is the shit Cool
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Dougy Dee
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 1:55 pm    Post subject: Re: Scat Crankshaft / Flywheel Fit Reply with quote

borninabus wrote:
serously, this has been an issue for SCAT for a long time.
why hasn't anyone told them?
and if so, why haven't they fixed it Question

p.s. modok is the shit Cool


So you'll buy their flywheel too. Not really an issue if you know about it and plan ahead.
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daos
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2020 3:20 am    Post subject: Re: Scat Crankshaft / Flywheel Fit Reply with quote

have a similar problem with an OEM flywheel which i drilled for 8 dowels (accurately, on a vertical mill, using the widely available 6-hole fixture), and an aftermarket 8 dowel crank which unfortunately comes with the dowels fitted. it didn't quite line up well enough. original four holes were good but not the rest.

had a fun sunday getting the dowels out of the crank – customised vise grips + valve grinding compound + slide hammer worked for six. last two i had to drill & tap for a bolt to get a proper grip. there were metal shavings jamming some of the pins in place. the benefits of low-cost mass production...

next step is to drill & ream larger holes through flywheel and crank assembly. i'll be making my own dowels using HSS drill bits so i can control the dowel length and interference. 8,5mm should be a good fit.
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Ohio Tom
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2020 6:31 am    Post subject: Re: Scat Crankshaft / Flywheel Fit Reply with quote

New flywheels are always tight on the dowels.
You want them that way.

The best way to get the flywheel "home" is this:

Take the socket and hold it with a gloved hand on the nut.
Now smack the socket with a brass hammer.
Hand tighten the nut again (should get a turn or 2 on it), then another hammer hit. Then another hand tighten...
You don't have to hit it that hard. The load is taken by the washer on the nut so you are not beating anything up.

It will go on nice and straight. You will feel it when it hits home.
Then you can just torque the nut.

For removal, you really need a flywheel puller that pulls it off straight.
Using 2 screw drives will wallow out the holes making the fit loose.

This is how to keep 250hp flywheel happy...


You do NOT want a loose fit on the dowels. They will fail.
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jeffrey8164 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2020 1:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Scat Crankshaft / Flywheel Fit Reply with quote

modok wrote:
Scat cranks come with the dowel pins out, so you can check the alignment much easier with the pins out. You'd THINK a scat flywheel would fit a scat crank


The 82mm SCAT crank I bought last year had the dowels installed and another set in the box.
I bought the DPR flywheel from ACN too.
Yes it was a beast to install. I hope I never have to remove it.
I thought about getting a SCAT flywheel but eventually I used the crank gear method. I put the flywheel in a 200 degree oven for an hour.
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chrisflstf
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2020 3:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Scat Crankshaft / Flywheel Fit Reply with quote

Ohio Tom wrote:
New flywheels are always tight on the dowels.
You want them that way.

The best way to get the flywheel "home" is this:

Take the socket and hold it with a gloved hand on the nut.
Now smack the socket with a brass hammer.
Hand tighten the nut again (should get a turn or 2 on it), then another hammer hit. Then another hand tighten...
You don't have to hit it that hard. The load is taken by the washer on the nut so you are not beating anything up.

It will go on nice and straight. You will feel it when it hits home.
Then you can just torque the nut.

For removal, you really need a flywheel puller that pulls it off straight.
Using 2 screw drives will wallow out the holes making the fit loose.

This is how to keep 250hp flywheel happy...


You do NOT want a loose fit on the dowels. They will fail.


I assume a dead blow hammer is best. Any risk to damaging the bearings?
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txoval
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2020 3:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Scat Crankshaft / Flywheel Fit Reply with quote

Does anyone make a flywheel puller for our VW’s?

*edit: I see how Berg uses a crank gear puller attached to a piece of square tubing to remove the flywheel...easy to make
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chrisflstf
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2020 6:18 pm    Post subject: Re: Scat Crankshaft / Flywheel Fit Reply with quote

txoval wrote:
Does anyone make a flywheel puller for our VW’s?

*edit: I see how Berg uses a crank gear puller attached to a piece of square tubing to remove the flywheel...easy to make


Bunch of pics in the gallery.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_search.php
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Ohio Tom
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2020 9:05 am    Post subject: Re: Scat Crankshaft / Flywheel Fit Reply with quote

The hammer blows are absorbed by the flywheel and crank. Not the case and bearings.
You can feel it when you hit it. Kind of a "Thud" as the flywheel advances on the dowels. Doesn't take a heavy hand either. Just a few smacks.
it will go on perfectly straight and not harm anything.

I have been doing it this way for 20yrs. Not once I have Hurt anything.



To pull the flywheel, I use another (junk) flywheel that I have drilled the clutch bolt holes out of.
I bolt it face-to-face to the flywheel on the engine with the crosshead of a steering wheel puller in between the 2 flywheels. The jack screw of the puller will stick out of the junk flywheel. I use an impact wrench to run the screw in.
Running the jack screw of the steeringwheel puller will pull the whole assembly off nice an straight.
This is especially nice for Wedgemated flywheels that need a puller and a hammer to bust loose no matter what.
You can load up the jack screw, then smack the puller with a hammer and the wedgemate will pop right off.
Nice clean way of removing tight flywheels that doesn't cause wear/damage.

Wedgemate crank/flywheels have limited life on the locking tapers, and how you treat them has a big impact on how many times they can be re-used.
A clean removal is imperative to life.


I'm sure some folks with say I'm a hack for using a hammer on an engine.
However, my method totally preserves the flywheel and crank dowels fit and integrity.
So, if you have to install/remove/install, to get your thrust shims setup correctly, Best to have a method that is not harmful.
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chrisflstf
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2020 8:58 am    Post subject: Re: Scat Crankshaft / Flywheel Fit Reply with quote

Crank dowel pins have a definate chamfer on one end. Does that end go in the crank or flywheel?
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