1968 Bug Ignition Problem?

[newbie68]

Hello folks, I always get outstanding help from this group so I'm reaching out once again for your expertise.

My '68 Bug started doing this today:

https://youtu.be/zL445X2Nl3M

It's taking a few tries for the ignition to catch, and only after I hold down the key hard all the way to the right (to its stop). Any idea if this is strictly an ignition problem? Maybe needs to be replaced for better contact?

Appreciate your feedback.

Jerry A.
Oceanside, CA

[Brian]

Sounds like you need a new electrical portion of the ignition switch. JBugs sells some okay quality ones, they're a little bit of a pain to swap out but it's an afternoon project.

See here in the wiring diagram where there's a red/black wire leaving the turn signal switch? Unplug that and see if you get 12v there when you turn the switch

_________________
Wash your hands

'69 Bug
'68 Baja Truck
'71 Bug
'68 Camper

Only losers litter

[gt1953]

To replace the switch is simple as on my 68 has been done a couple of times or three. What you could do to isolate the problem is to add two switches, one on off for ignition and one push on spring loaded for the starter. This way you know you have good electrical connections.
One of my switches just needed to be snugged up after I had it removed. The little divits needed to be redivited to hold the switch together. My best explanation.
_________________
Volkswagen: We tune what we drive.
Numbers Matching VW's are getting harder to find. Source out the most Stock vehicle and keep that way. You will be glad you did.

72 type 1
72 Squareback
({59 Euro bug, 62, 63, 67, 68, 69, 73 type ones 68 & 69 type two, 68 Ghia all sold})

[ashman40]

It is likely your ignition switch (electrical) but you should check a few things just to be sure:

Battery voltage (measured at the battery posts) should be 12.6v at rest (everything OFF) and should not drop below 10.0v while the engine is cranking. If possible get your battery load tested at your FLAPS to confirm how healthy it is.

Voltage at the #50 starter solenoid wire. This is the red wire below the left rear seat that exits at the rear of the pan next to the center tunnel. There is a junction just before the wire exits. Disconnect the wires at this junction and test the voltage on the wire coming from the left side of the car. If there is 12v here every time you turn the key to START then the ignition switch is fine. If the voltage is low or intermittent, then your switch or wiring are suspect.

If you end up replacing your ignition switch electrical... IMHO, I'd recommend you add a hard start relay (HSR) below your rear seat. It does the function of adding a dedicated STARTER switch/button, but leaves the function in the ignition switch (no extra button). The HSR reduces the current passing thru the ignition switch and prevents it from wearing out prematurely. It also increases the voltage/current that reaches the starter solenoid on the #50 wire making for better engine cranking.
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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[sb001]

[zoobyshoe]

[Douglas A]

Replace ignition switch, super easy, I had to take mine out to replace top part
steering column. Maybe 10 minutes at most. Most likely its been done before.
Most people cut the wires, if they are spliced its been replaced before.
It easy as well to unplug. Also are you getting anything clicking in the back,
sometimes if you are getting clicking, could be starter solenoid? However what I can see looks like ignition, check all connections to the ignition as well.

[gt1953]

zoobyshoe put the wrong switch for a 1968 model. It looks like this one
https://europortparts.com/311905865a-kmm-ignition-...ransporter
_________________
Volkswagen: We tune what we drive.
Numbers Matching VW's are getting harder to find. Source out the most Stock vehicle and keep that way. You will be glad you did.

72 type 1
72 Squareback
({59 Euro bug, 62, 63, 67, 68, 69, 73 type ones 68 & 69 type two, 68 Ghia all sold})

[zoobyshoe]

[zoobyshoe]

[ashman40]

The other common problem is the plastic switch case will crack and flex.

The above appears to be a '71 switch. Yes, the '68-'70 Beetle switch came from VW with a metal case, but I can imagine aftermarket makers using a plastic replacement.
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}