'74...ish Dune Buggy

[neohic]

[Q-Dog]

I stuff a raincoat in that area above the gas tank ... and sometimes an old towel for wiping the windshield.
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Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

[joescoolcustoms]

[neohic]

Got a little further with eating my whale today. I went as far as running the front wires to the front, the rear to the rear, and the dash and column wiring sorted.

But of course I ran into a problem. I was using the late model wiring instructions with the Rebel harness as my column came from a '74. I put everything where (as far as I knew) it needed to be and with turning the key the wiper motor started turning... and turning... and turning. Didn't matter where the switch was positioned either. I turned the key off, checked everything over, and tried it again... same result, and then it stopped... and then nothing. Now I'm hoping that I didn't just cook my switch or the wiper motor. Granted, nothing let its "magical electrical smoke" out and nothing smells burned, but I'm still not getting my hopes up. Any thoughts on this? Is the ground coming from the motor just for the self parking switch? Does the wiper motor itself need its own ground?
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-Ben

I like to build stuff...

[neohic]

Little by little, I'm getting there. I only got to spend a few hours on it this weekend which was kind of a bummer. Things started where I left off with the wipers. The wiper motor works just fine when power it put directly to it. The switch is kind of wonky when testing that. Pretty sure the switch is bad which I find odd as there really isn't all that much to go wrong with them. As for what I accomplished?... well, not much. I found out that my brake light switches are bad, so I moved on to the horn and that went well.

I'm waiting to finish the wiring up front until I get the indicators I ordered last week. They're little motorcycle units that mimic the headlights and they'll get mounted somewhere on the front bumper. Everything forward of the front bulk head under the hood is finished though... which is kind of a nice thought.

The footwell side of the front bulkhead has a little more to go before I can drop the hood on. The headlight circuit is mostly figured minus the dimmer. Next on the list is figuring out the hazard circuit. Things really would've been so much easier if I would've been okay with using factory switches.

"Only eight circuits," I thought. "Should go pretty easy," I thought.
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-Ben

I like to build stuff...

[neohic]

... still at it. The wiring is going pretty good. A bit slow, but it's still going. Things were getting to the point where the dash needed to be finished so I can make sure I've got all these colorful strings going to the right place.

Mock up...

New gauges and all wrapped up...

... and mounted...

Logically, what's the next thing to set in the car before hooking things up? Seat belts and at least one seat to make sure everything feels right.

New driver's seat view (not that the hanging wires will stay)...

My oil pressure and temperature gauges are admittedly kind of cheap. I found them on Amazon, but the reviews both there and from outside suppliers were pretty good. I was having a tough time finding something that I really liked. What I was hoping to do was to either match the speedometer or the tach. Unfortunately, Sunpro gauges are now hard to find as the name was bought out by Bosch and they really cut back on their gauge lines, and VDO gauges really don't look like anything special for their prices. These were inexpensive, came with senders, have LED back lighting, and I think they look at least on par with the simple looks of the VDO gauges. As for the switches, they are a nice quality and I was able to get them in the colors that I wanted. They're only triggers for the relay bank. The blue one farthest to the right will put power to a USB socket that tucks away nicely.

Next on the list is to finish up the front wiring. It's nice to have the hood on it again (fingers crossed I've got everything right so I don't have to pull it off again), and it's also nice to give this little guy its face again. I found a neat set of marker lights that are intended for motorcycles that look close enough to the headlight buckets that I'm happy with them. The problem with them is that they're only a single filament bulb and there's no room for adding another socket in them. What I get to do now is gut the housings and turn them into a double filament housing to I can use them as parking and turn signal lights. I've got a plan... just need to do it. Until then, I added a couple tabs on the front bumper so they'll hang on either side of the license plate.

Don't see them? That's the idea.
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-Ben

I like to build stuff...

[cdnltded]

for turning you single element bulbs into dual.
here is an idea. get some resistors and some diodes
put one diode in each line (signal and park)
and put a resistor in the park light wire. hook together after the diode and resistor and out that wire(s) to the single element bulb
make sense

i did it once and the result was amazing

[neohic]

I thought about doing that as I already did with my hazard/turn signal wiring, but I already had the dual sockets. I'm all for recycling!
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-Ben

I like to build stuff...

[GoMopar440]

It's looking like you're making some really good progress with it so far! How much longer before your big move?

I don't remember if you mentioned it or not, but are you going to be repainting it in the future? I know it's a low priority right now, but in another build thread over on STF there's a red Baja that was just painted with cheap tractor paint. The entire paint job with materials cost under $100 IIRC, with the guy painting it himself in his garage. I doubt I'll try it on my current rail, but whenever I replace the frame and body that's what I plan on using to paint it. The color options are somewhat limited and it's a single stage paint seem to be the biggest drawbacks, but only if that matters to you.
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Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493

[neohic]

I've actually painted a few cars with single stage paint with very good results. Sure, they don't get the same gloss that a base/clear paint job will, but the single stage paint it tough and easy to touch up. The problem comes in with the upkeep over the years. The finish fades and the gloss disappears when left in the sun. I'm sure when (if?) the time comes to paint it, it'll be a base/clear job.

As for the last couple days, new working systems are the USB socket, front turn signals, front marker lights, and high/low beam headlights. Had to take apart the column... again ... to clean the contacts in the dimmer trigger ground along with fixing the pins in the column harness connections.

... loose wiring has since been finished.

I also decided to install the windshield after a couple close calls with it leaning against the wall in the shop. The next logical step was the wiper arms and blades. Found myself another unexpected project... apparently I need to extend the arms.

_________________
-Ben

I like to build stuff...

[neohic]

Things still moving along okay. I started tearing into the engine yesterday. Never did run the number on it... all I ever really knew about it was that it was a DP that the previous owner had behind his trike. It turned over, but I never heard it run.

Anyhow, I took a look at the number on the case tonight and it's HO364349 making it a '70... correct? As far as I know, I won't have any problems putting it behind my '74 transaxle. The only issue I think I might have is which clutch to put between the two. Any thoughts on this?
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-Ben

I like to build stuff...

[GoMopar440]

That "HO" engine number prefix sounds familiar to me. I could be wrong, but I believe the HO engines were comparable to the "U0" prefix engine from my 68 Type 3 parts car. I was told that they had less than desirable metallurgy in the case castings and tended to strip threaded holes and get cracks more easily than other cases.

IIRC these issues are usually only a factor when the engines are pulled apart and rebuilt more than normal, or worked over (bored, stroked, cammed, etc.) to increase HP/TQ. If left pretty much stock they have a better chance of surviving a lot longer.

I could have the engine numbers mixed up, but I'm sure the engine code that was compared to mine was definitely a "H" something engine. Hopefully the more knowledgeable VW gurus will pop in and give some better input than what little info I have to offer.

If the above info IS correct, then I'd just get it working and run it as is. Enjoy it for as long as you can and start with a back up plan in case it ever does fail on you sometime later on. Knowing me, I'd eventually be wanting some better parts to build something bigger, stronger and more reliable. But only after I got it running and driving with the HO engine. That's my $.02 worth anyway.
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Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493

[neohic]

That's really what I was thinking with the engine too. I'll be throwing some cheep pistons/cylinders at it, seals, push rod tubes, and ignition. I'm not even planning on splitting the case open. Been soaking in degreaser since Sunday though!

So... an older engine putting power through a '74 trans... what clutch do I use? Is it worth looking into anything more than a stock unit? I assume I match the clutch to the newer throw out bearing?
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-Ben

I like to build stuff...

[GoMopar440]

The buggy you're building will be lighter than a full bodied Bug, so a stock clutch should hold fine behind a stock(ish) engine.

Like you mentioned, be sure to match the style of throwout bearing (new or old) you have to your clutch kit and you should be good to go. I believe it's the throwout bearing on the trans that dictates which style of clutch kit you'll need.
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Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493

[cdnltded]

[neohic]

Ugh... panic mode. I just sold my house.
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-Ben

I like to build stuff...

[crack monkey]

Congratulations on the house. My advise is to work on the car as much as you can until you have 30-45 days to closing. Then pack it up until after the move. It gets pretty stressful getting everything ready to move, last thing you want is to be dealing with the car and rushing to assemble while packing

[hillmotorsports]

Well Ben, your sig does say "I like to build stuff"
Does building a new house/garage/shop qualify?

Classic case of "be careful what you wish for"!
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Rosemarie and Paul Hill
Morrisburg, Ontario

(With way more projects than spare time!)

[neohic]

I do like to build stuff... it's kind of a curse.
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-Ben

I like to build stuff...

[neohic]

So... this might be an abrupt and very disappointing end to this project for now. All my engine parts came in so I started tearing things down. Under the grease, I found a crank case that has been helicoiled, cracked, and poorly welded on. Then while removing the flywheel, I unfortunately discovered dowel pin holes that are all super sloppy.

Now after spending and buying everything I need to rebuild my engine and also started prepping everything for building, I now have no engine worth rebuilding and only a few weeks to deal with it.

This is of course a huge bummer. So close to having it drivable only to be moving and not knowing when I'll be able to get back to it.
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-Ben

I like to build stuff...