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Fuel injection relief here!
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2016 9:39 am    Post subject: Re: Fuel injection relief here! Reply with quote

Elguerrogigante wrote:
1970 squareback, manual transmission,


If you dont have fuel pressure or flow issues anymore.....and have checked all ignition components as Tram noted.......then go back to your original post....."running fine until driving over a particularly bumpy/rough road".

Check all of your connections and especially the grounds. If none of the above fixed it......it could easily be poor connections. Ray
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tweakhx
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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2016 9:37 am    Post subject: Re: Fuel injection relief here! Reply with quote

Edit: I found a thread with someone experiencing the same issue, and as Tram has said before, the diesel dunk seems to help. I will report back after.

Thanks again!

------------------------

Hello everyone! New type 3 owner here (1968 Fastback) since Saturday

I'll be succinct, my pump is whining (Bosch). Fuel tank has average rust, but the sock is new looking and in place correctly. All lines are fresh and not dried or leaking. The pump is leaking very slightly, check picture below.

I've done a lot of research through this thread but wanted to ask anyway. I plan on submerging the pump tonight in diesel as mentioned and checking the fuel filter.

The whining has gotten louder over the past 2 days. I'm currently not driving the vehicle. During those two days, the car doesn't seem to have lost power or had any stuttering/starting issues etc.

I'll try to reply the best I can. Thanks in advance for any help!

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tweakhx
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2016 10:14 am    Post subject: Re: Fuel injection relief here! Reply with quote

Dunked the pump. Not much came out when reversing the flow. It is quieter but still whines. Still no noticeable loss in power or cutting out.

Should I be concerned about the whining? Is some noise acceptable? I'm willing to do the Airtex pump install, but would prefer to keep the Bosch pump if I can.

Thanks,
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2016 10:20 am    Post subject: Re: Fuel injection relief here! Reply with quote

Contradictory advice about pump noises. Muir in the Idiot book says that Bosch claimed they make no noise at all. Muir said otherwise. I hear a whining noise if I listen carefully. Under the front, I can hear it even when the car is running. Works fine and pressure is consistent. The tough part is knowing how MUCH noise is okay!
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Donnie strickland
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2016 10:29 am    Post subject: Re: Fuel injection relief here! Reply with quote

tweakhx wrote:
Dunked the pump. Not much came out when reversing the flow. It is quieter but still whines. Still no noticeable loss in power or cutting out.

Should I be concerned about the whining? Is some noise acceptable? I'm willing to do the Airtex pump install, but would prefer to keep the Bosch pump if I can.

Thanks,


My standard reply is the same as Ray Greenwood's -- unless it's a show car, there is no reason at all to feel like you have to use the Bosch pump. You can't buy them new, and though they can be rebuilt by Jim Adney, you're better off replacing it with something you can buy off the shelf at almost any parts house. That's what I did when mine started leaking.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 9:06 am    Post subject: Re: Fuel injection relief here! Reply with quote

Donnie strickland wrote:
tweakhx wrote:
Dunked the pump. Not much came out when reversing the flow. It is quieter but still whines. Still no noticeable loss in power or cutting out.

Should I be concerned about the whining? Is some noise acceptable? I'm willing to do the Airtex pump install, but would prefer to keep the Bosch pump if I can.

Thanks,


My standard reply is the same as Ray Greenwood's -- unless it's a show car, there is no reason at all to feel like you have to use the Bosch pump. You can't buy them new, and though they can be rebuilt by Jim Adney, you're better off replacing it with something you can buy off the shelf at almost any parts house. That's what I did when mine started leaking.


Agreed. I've replaced a few Bosch pumps with Airtex pumps (or Precision pumps from O'Reilly's) with good results.
The biggest issue I've ran into with the Bosch pump, is that it'll just up and quit making pressure. When it does this, it's dumping any fuel back into the tank, and the car won't run. The Bosch pump in my old Notch did this. It had been fine for almost a year, then 1 morning it decided to not make any pressure. That afternoon, I swapped in an Airtex pump, and was good to go. It was in there from 2009 until mid 2011 when I sold the car. My wife's 70 Fastback got an Airtex pump installed in 2008 when I converted the car back to FI. It's still there and works great.
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 10:23 am    Post subject: Re: Fuel injection relief here! Reply with quote

Bobnotch wrote:
Donnie strickland wrote:
tweakhx wrote:
Dunked the pump. Not much came out when reversing the flow. It is quieter but still whines. Still no noticeable loss in power or cutting out.

Should I be concerned about the whining? Is some noise acceptable? I'm willing to do the Airtex pump install, but would prefer to keep the Bosch pump if I can.

Thanks,


My standard reply is the same as Ray Greenwood's -- unless it's a show car, there is no reason at all to feel like you have to use the Bosch pump. You can't buy them new, and though they can be rebuilt by Jim Adney, you're better off replacing it with something you can buy off the shelf at almost any parts house. That's what I did when mine started leaking.


Agreed. I've replaced a few Bosch pumps with Airtex pumps (or Precision pumps from O'Reilly's) with good results.
The biggest issue I've ran into with the Bosch pump, is that it'll just up and quit making pressure. When it does this, it's dumping any fuel back into the tank, and the car won't run. The Bosch pump in my old Notch did this. It had been fine for almost a year, then 1 morning it decided to not make any pressure. That afternoon, I swapped in an Airtex pump, and was good to go. It was in there from 2009 until mid 2011 when I sold the car. My wife's 70 Fastback got an Airtex pump installed in 2008 when I converted the car back to FI. It's still there and works great.



Its not JUST the Bosch pumps that do this....but to be accurate...its the ROLLER CELL PUMPS that do this of any brand.

While roller cell pumps can be relied upon...design wise.....when the very highest pressures, high flow rate and long life are required (think CIS injection where normal operating pressures are 79-150 psi).....its the nature of what makes them work that causes them to mysteriously stop.

The whine from roller cell pumps that starts with age....is caused by one or more of 3-4 main tolerances that get worn to a specific point.

Bearing in mind how these work.... that inside of these are a flat rotor maybe 0.80" thick with 4-6 cut-outs. In each cut-out is a small flat roller bearing shaped like a puck.
The pucks rotate freely in the rotor pockets as the rotor rotates...and act as stoppers and valves all at the same time. The rotor and pucks are in a precision cast and machined depression. Each rotor pocket is a compression stage. As it reaches a certain point if the 360* arc there is an exit port for the compressed fuel to exit.

1. If the Floor or ceiling of the depression that the rotor rotates in has wear/tolerance....the pucks/rollers rattle up and down out of plane making a buzz or whine.

2. If the pucks/rollers themselves are worn top or bottom...thickness tolerance...they rattle up and down causing a buzz or whine.

3. If the pockets/slots in the rotor are worn...the rollers make odd movements...and rattle...making a buzz or whine.

4. If the bearings in the motor are worn and cause oscillations of the shaft or rotor.....the rollers will make a buzz or whine. Or if one leg of the armature is weak....causing a lopsided "moment" between brushes on rotation....it will cause a stuttering oscillation in the rotor and cause a nasty rattle to the rollers in the slots/cells of the rotor.

Bear in mind.....once any of these parts gets enough wear tolerance to start rattling/buzzing.....the wear accelerates. The pump loses some efficiency. It also starts to run hotter.

When the wear gaps between roller, chamber and rotor get large enough that fuel has more than one option of what direction it can go...other than forward under compression.....it flows laterally in other directions across the rotor from cell to cell.

You can hear this at times when a struggling pump appears to "surge" or speed up and down. Once the fuel is free from compression even for a millisecond....the rotor and motor is free from load....the speed spikes and the rotor can actually cavitate.

Any time the pump is run dry, overly hot where heat expansion causes large or small tolerances etc.....it can cause some momentary non-mileage related wear to the rollers and rotor cells. This brings you closer to the day it will fail.

These are the reasons why I do not believe in rebuilding these pumps. Its not just an exercise is putting in new seals and lapping the top plate of the pressure chamber and checking motor function and or replacing bearings. There are a LOT of fine tolerances that must be exact...to REALLY be reliable.
If there are any roller cells or rollers that are less than perfect tolerance...while you may get many trouble free miles from the pump....the fact that it already has some high tolerances....only propagates the wear pattern sooner than a brand new pump would have.

Personally...I applaud rebuilding the D-jet pump primarily and only for those that are building period original cars that MUST have the original pump. Few of these are also long distance or daily drivers.

About a decade ago or more I was fairly negative person on the stable pressure and reliability of turbine ring pumps...mainly because the material technology was not there yet and I saw the poor reliability of what the big 3 American companies were using on their crappy injection systems of the early 80's through the 90's......cheap submersible turbine pumps.....when all European and most Japanese were using roller cell pumps for fuel pressure and volume reliability...albeit at much higher cost.

Now....almost all of the modern turbine ring type pumps are very reliable at any design pressure. The vast majority of pumps Bosch makes are no longer roller cell unless the design pressure requires it.

As such they are making so much less of the roller cell pumps....that production of a lot of them has gone to 3rd world countries.

Ray
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blues90
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2016 12:18 pm    Post subject: Re: Fuel injection relief here! Reply with quote

raygreenwood wrote:
Bobnotch wrote:
Donnie strickland wrote:
tweakhx wrote:
Dunked the pump. Not much came out when reversing the flow. It is quieter but still whines. Still no noticeable loss in power or cutting out.

Should I be concerned about the whining? Is some noise acceptable? I'm willing to do the Airtex pump install, but would prefer to keep the Bosch pump if I can.

Thanks,


My standard reply is the same as Ray Greenwood's -- unless it's a show car, there is no reason at all to feel like you have to use the Bosch pump. You can't buy them new, and though they can be rebuilt by Jim Adney, you're better off replacing it with something you can buy off the shelf at almost any parts house. That's what I did when mine started leaking.


Agreed. I've replaced a few Bosch pumps with Airtex pumps (or Precision pumps from O'Reilly's) with good results.
The biggest issue I've ran into with the Bosch pump, is that it'll just up and quit making pressure. When it does this, it's dumping any fuel back into the tank, and the car won't run. The Bosch pump in my old Notch did this. It had been fine for almost a year, then 1 morning it decided to not make any pressure. That afternoon, I swapped in an Airtex pump, and was good to go. It was in there from 2009 until mid 2011 when I sold the car. My wife's 70 Fastback got an Airtex pump installed in 2008 when I converted the car back to FI. It's still there and works great.



Its not JUST the Bosch pumps that do this....but to be accurate...its the ROLLER CELL PUMPS that do this of any brand.

While roller cell pumps can be relied upon...design wise.....when the very highest pressures, high flow rate and long life are required (think CIS injection where normal operating pressures are 79-150 psi).....its the nature of what makes them work that causes them to mysteriously stop.

The whine from roller cell pumps that starts with age....is caused by one or more of 3-4 main tolerances that get worn to a specific point.

Bearing in mind how these work.... that inside of these are a flat rotor maybe 0.80" thick with 4-6 cut-outs. In each cut-out is a small flat roller bearing shaped like a puck.
The pucks rotate freely in the rotor pockets as the rotor rotates...and act as stoppers and valves all at the same time. The rotor and pucks are in a precision cast and machined depression. Each rotor pocket is a compression stage. As it reaches a certain point if the 360* arc there is an exit port for the compressed fuel to exit.

1. If the Floor or ceiling of the depression that the rotor rotates in has wear/tolerance....the pucks/rollers rattle up and down out of plane making a buzz or whine.

2. If the pucks/rollers themselves are worn top or bottom...thickness tolerance...they rattle up and down causing a buzz or whine.

3. If the pockets/slots in the rotor are worn...the rollers make odd movements...and rattle...making a buzz or whine.

4. If the bearings in the motor are worn and cause oscillations of the shaft or rotor.....the rollers will make a buzz or whine. Or if one leg of the armature is weak....causing a lopsided "moment" between brushes on rotation....it will cause a stuttering oscillation in the rotor and cause a nasty rattle to the rollers in the slots/cells of the rotor.

Bear in mind.....once any of these parts gets enough wear tolerance to start rattling/buzzing.....the wear accelerates. The pump loses some efficiency. It also starts to run hotter.

When the wear gaps between roller, chamber and rotor get large enough that fuel has more than one option of what direction it can go...other than forward under compression.....it flows laterally in other directions across the rotor from cell to cell.

You can hear this at times when a struggling pump appears to "surge" or speed up and down. Once the fuel is free from compression even for a millisecond....the rotor and motor is free from load....the speed spikes and the rotor can actually cavitate.

Any time the pump is run dry, overly hot where heat expansion causes large or small tolerances etc.....it can cause some momentary non-mileage related wear to the rollers and rotor cells. This brings you closer to the day it will fail.

These are the reasons why I do not believe in rebuilding these pumps. Its not just an exercise is putting in new seals and lapping the top plate of the pressure chamber and checking motor function and or replacing bearings. There are a LOT of fine tolerances that must be exact...to REALLY be reliable.
If there are any roller cells or rollers that are less than perfect tolerance...while you may get many trouble free miles from the pump....the fact that it already has some high tolerances....only propagates the wear pattern sooner than a brand new pump would have.

Personally...I applaud rebuilding the D-jet pump primarily and only for those that are building period original cars that MUST have the original pump. Few of these are also long distance or daily drivers.

About a decade ago or more I was fairly negative person on the stable pressure and reliability of turbine ring pumps...mainly because the material technology was not there yet and I saw the poor reliability of what the big 3 American companies were using on their crappy injection systems of the early 80's through the 90's......cheap submersible turbine pumps.....when all European and most Japanese were using roller cell pumps for fuel pressure and volume reliability...albeit at much higher cost.

Now....almost all of the modern turbine ring type pumps are very reliable at any design pressure. The vast majority of pumps Bosch makes are no longer roller cell unless the design pressure requires it.

As such they are making so much less of the roller cell pumps....that production of a lot of them has gone to 3rd world countries.

Ray


Every time I come across a topic about Bosch fuel pumps I feel like I'm risking things.

My car was 12 years old when I got it . I don't know it the pump was ever changed since it was new and since the odometer didn't work when I bought it I have no idea how many miles it actually has or what else might have been done to it.

I have seen evidence it was worked on because the trans to frame ground strap was hanging and the 2 nuts that hold the auto trans studs to the mount were missing .

The fuel pumps that Ford used in tank up to 2002 or 3 and before were so small and cheap I was amazed they could pump let alone last and many were intermittent and many just quit.

So far as old as my pump may be I can't hear it other than once in a while when it does it's first prime and it's been doing this for at least 15 years and sounds the same when it does.

I don't like the idea of driving and it just quits . Bad enough in a parking lot , worse on the road . Even though my ins covers towing that is my only option other than watering the money tree in a state that's been in a drought for quite a few years now. I'd just install an Airtex or similar.

I was under the front of my car for 3 to 4 hours a day for 2 days doing the tie rod ends and then the self alignment and I looked at the pump and lines and always forget exactly how the lines are routed , it seems to be the way you look up at it being that it's behind the beam . Last time I replaced the fuel lines on 11/09 I had new rubber mounts and in removing the mounts the two plates come away from the beam opening and they were still in great shape so I left them alone and really hated the fit getting the plates and mounts back in , didn't know the entire thing came apart so I had to figure out how it fit and working on the garage floor on a creeper or cardboard is a real PITA.
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treedog
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2016 7:21 pm    Post subject: Re: Fuel injection relief here! Reply with quote

Hi all,
I have a 71 square that I bought as a shell 5 years ago. The original motor and trans came with the car,but they had been sitting on the floor for years. The engine had dual solex carbs on it and the fuel injection parts were in a milk crate. I learned all I could about the system mostly on this thread and from the Bentley manual.
I built the motor as a 1776 with stock cam and injectors. Rebuilt the auto trans.,paint, upholstery, brakes and suspension done with the best quality parts I could find (many Samba members helped with parts)'

The car looks great, and ran good until the weather got hot. After driving 5-10 miles in the heat it doesn't want to idle well. I've been through a complete.ignition tune up, checked AAR, checked resistance on the temp sensors, and I can't seem to pinpoint the problem. Idle.is set at 900'rpm, timing is dead nuts (using 2 different timing lights. I am running the airtex fuel pump and running at 31_32 psi on the fuel, and the valves have been adjusted a couple of times since this started.
Anyone ha e any ideas? Sorry.for a.rambling post, I just wanted to get it all.out there. Thanks
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2016 7:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Fuel injection relief here! Reply with quote

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My Square
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2016 12:16 pm    Post subject: Re: Fuel injection relief here! Reply with quote

Found the problem this morning and fixed it. The square runs like a new car.
Cracked rocker assembly. Valves could hardly open when cold.I can't imagine it was breathing at all on 1&2 when hot.
It idled so smooth when hot, in gear, at a stop light, I wasn't sure it was running.
Happy camper here!
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 7:52 pm    Post subject: Re: Fuel injection relief here! Reply with quote

Hi, new to the type 3 scene
Just acquired a 1970 Square back. Has t1 engine case, no oil fill tube etc.
Has 2 carbs, no air filters, doesn't run. Not a fan of carbs but tolerate stock carb on my '66 6volt t1
I have access to a '69 fastback parts car with original F.I. engine that hasn't run in 20+years.
Is this '69 F.I. worth the effort to put into my '70 sqbk?
Not concerned with originality - want reliability
I see aftermarket pumps are available, what about injectors, sensors etc.
Are there substitute parts available for the rest of the system?
I am very familiar with later electronic F.I. (L-jetronic, hot film air mass) C.I.S.- C.I.S.E. and the current Direct injection w/pezio electric injectors for common rail gas and diesel systems.
I'm not afraid of diagnosing, making complete harnesses, retrofitting etc.
I am just not familiar with this old system.
I see this is the first generation system, is it reliable, parts available, and
live-able to be used as a daily driver in central Florida (no sub freezing cold starts) or am I wasting my time and should stay with the carbs. Sorry for the long post, trying to give as much info as possible.
Thanks for any info good or bad!
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2016 10:43 am    Post subject: Re: Fuel injection relief here! Reply with quote

My '69 FI/AT square has been running fine for 3 years, but just started to cough/stumble like it was starving for fuel? I replaced the fuel filter & bumped the fuel pressure from 26 up to 31 & back down to 28 lbs with no improvement. Tram suggested putting in a new condenser & that seems to have solved the stumble! Only buy new condensers with the long wire to reach the coil. Very Happy

My test port was leaking fuel just now with a metal washer, so I replaced it with a rubber washer. Twisted Evil

P.S. maddawg: Lots of us have shelves full of good used DJet FI parts for sale! Idea
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2016 12:30 pm    Post subject: 70 Squareback FI issues Reply with quote

Hello. I'm Rob. I bought a 70 Squareback Automatic for my daughter and am having some issues getting the PO hacked systems back up and working. Not my first VW ('61 T1, '62 T1 sunroof, '61 23 window sunroof bus (LaSamba Wink ), 71 standard, '65 notch) but is my first real venture into D-jetronic. I am familiar with tuning and checking the system when everything is okay, but on this car nothing is okay. It was barely patched together but able to run.

I have good compression, valves are adjusted and re-re-rechecked, dwell is at 50.1ish, plugs and wires are good, Throttle switch is functional, but consistently falls out of adjustment thanks to bungled fasteners. Timing is dead-nuts at 0 and rock solid.

I have repaired just about every broken wire and connection (sans boots, but siliconed for water resistance) and all the sensors and senders check out at the ECU as far as resistance or continuity. I setup the MPS using figures from the 914 site and was able to get the car running really well... or so I thought. It will run GREAT for about 100 miles and then starts "dying" It isn't a surge - the idle is steady. Every once in a while, especially in gear, the engine just stops for half a beat, and then continues running. It will do this at part-throttle cruise as well. Flat-out on the freeway is fine. accelerating is fine. Just that part-throttle cruise and idle.

I have double-checked all vacuum lines and everything seems okay.

I am about ready to change to multiple carbs since that's gravy-easy for me, but I like the idea of no fiddling EFI. Although it seems like I am spending way more time with getting this dialed in than I would be setting up a couple carbs.

Any ideas? I don't have an exhaust analyzer so CO is just a guess. I think I'm close though since the kid I got it from passed emissions - barely - and I flew through with room to spare...

Also, does anyone have the inductance numbers for a type 3 MPS? at three levels of vacuum? I took all the numbers from the 914 site and averaged them and set mine to that - probably pretty darn close but closer is better-er I think.

Thanks all!
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2016 1:40 pm    Post subject: Re: Fuel injection relief here! Reply with quote

Rob: A sudden intermittent "buck" at highway or cruising speeds is almost always a throttle sensor fault- dirty contacts, maladjusted or the tracer is worn through at one spot (not unheard of but rare).

Have you checked fuel pressure? that's one of the "basic" things often overlooked, although it likely isn't your problem.

A faulty condenser can cause similar issues as well, although the condenser issue is usually more severe, almost a "running out of gas" sensation.
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2016 3:53 pm    Post subject: Re: Fuel injection relief here! Reply with quote

Thanks Tram! I think I'm leaning toward the throttle switch as well. Fuel pressure is good at 30 psi and steady through all rpm ranges and load. I swapped a known good condenser and no change. The throttle switch seems okay, but like I said it twists because the previous owner snapped one of the fasteners and only the top screw is holding it in place.

how successful have folks been getting that 46 year old cover off without it crumbling? Another adventure!
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2016 4:33 pm    Post subject: Re: Fuel injection relief here! Reply with quote

Wingwalker98 wrote:
Thanks Tram! I think I'm leaning toward the throttle switch as well. Fuel pressure is good at 30 psi and steady through all rpm ranges and load. I swapped a known good condenser and no change. The throttle switch seems okay, but like I said it twists because the previous owner snapped one of the fasteners and only the top screw is holding it in place.

how successful have folks been getting that 46 year old cover off without it crumbling? Another adventure!


PM me and remind me on Monday and I'll hunt through my stash and see if I have a good C/D throttle body and T- switch. If that switch is swinging around it will always be a problem.
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Tram
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2016 4:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Fuel injection relief here! Reply with quote

treedog wrote:
Hi all,
I have a 71 square that I bought as a shell 5 years ago. The original motor and trans came with the car,but they had been sitting on the floor for years. The engine had dual solex carbs on it and the fuel injection parts were in a milk crate. I learned all I could about the system mostly on this thread and from the Bentley manual.
I built the motor as a 1776 with stock cam and injectors. Rebuilt the auto trans.,paint, upholstery, brakes and suspension done with the best quality parts I could find (many Samba members helped with parts)'

The car looks great, and ran good until the weather got hot. After driving 5-10 miles in the heat it doesn't want to idle well. I've been through a complete.ignition tune up, checked AAR, checked resistance on the temp sensors, and I can't seem to pinpoint the problem. Idle.is set at 900'rpm, timing is dead nuts (using 2 different timing lights. I am running the airtex fuel pump and running at 31_32 psi on the fuel, and the valves have been adjusted a couple of times since this started.
Anyone ha e any ideas? Sorry.for a.rambling post, I just wanted to get it all.out there. Thanks


Damn, sorry I missed this... better late than never, I guess. Had a "busy" summer with dying relatives.

@treedog - are you running the stock 1600 yellow tip injectors? If so you need to upgrade to the M-B/ Volvo/ Type 4/ 914 blue or green injectors. I can help you locate some.

People have reported some success with yellow injectors and a fuel pressure increase on a 1776, but this is hard on the injectors and can cause them to leak and fail. The yellows top out at about a 1641 so you need the bigger injectors.
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Bryan67 wrote:
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Tram
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2016 4:59 pm    Post subject: Re: Fuel injection relief here! Reply with quote

Just noticed the genuine Bosch injectors have gone bat shit crazy on price... I've had good luck with the Beck- Arnley reman eqivalent - their P/N no. 155-0007. This looks to be the best price on the Bay of E right now:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Beck-Arnley-Fuel-Injector-...mp;vxp=mtr

Replace the lower seals with the Mercedes type- they're much more robust than the crappy aftermarket VW junk:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Lower-MBenz-280SE-280SEL...mp;vxp=mtr

NOTE: These are for 1776cc and up bigger engines running stock D-Jet.
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Bryan67 wrote:
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 4:07 pm    Post subject: Re: Fuel injection relief here! Reply with quote

EDIT: It was, of course, the metal gaskets around the intake. I cleaned and applied a very thin coat of Ultra Black and the problem was solved.

-----------------------

I had to drop the engine to put in new oil cooler seals. I got it back in, hooked everything up and now when it starts the engine goes into SUPER rev mode until i turn it off. I've adjusted the throttle cable at wide open and also the throttle positioning switch per bentley.

could a bad intake gasket (on left side) be the culprit for such a thing? I had taken it off before and re-used the gasket with no change.

-----sub question - i've read you can make these from cardboard, T or F?

I replaced the fuel injector rubber as well. The PO had two orings stacked on the ends of the injectors. I ordered the single piece ones. Are these correct?

the top two small O rings are what were "stacked" onto the injector bottom. the bottom seal is what is on there now. Maybe they aren't sealing correctly?

Thanks,

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Last edited by tweakhx on Wed Sep 14, 2016 8:58 am; edited 1 time in total
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