'70 Type 2 Alternator Replacement

[schlabach4]

Just purchased a '70 Type 2 van, super awesome!

However, the alternator currently does not work, and the previous owner said the engine in the van is actually from a '73 Super Beetle, instead of the original engine. I had found a part number for the alternator for a '73 Super Beetle - I was told to get a Bosch AL82N. I purchased one on eBay, but it doesn't seem to match with the alternator that is in the engine right now, so I'm a bit confused..??

I've attached some photos of the current engine and one of the new alternator that I purchased, can anyone give me some advice/guidance on how this is supposed to work?

Thanks in advance!

Current engine

New Alternator

[SGKent]

the part number 043-903-023 is the alternator. As VW improved parts or made another version for a later vehicle they often added a letter to the back. In some cases an A might replace a part without a letter, a B might replace an A, a C might replace a B etc. Some alternators are out to E, F etc and in no way look like the original. I don't know much about the bug alternators and upgrading, but running a query on google showed that the 043903023 alternator was made by Motorola and it was externally regulated. Example here http://jogrusa.com/products/motorola-12v-alternator-043903023 or old classifieds ad here: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1759588

You might be able to upgrade but I cannot tell you what is involved. Normally when one replaces an alternator or generator they must check the fan to shroud spacing which involves selecting the correct number of shims between the fan an alternator. I don't know if later alternators have the same alignment. Maybe someone else will be along who has done this.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[kreemoweet]

There's MANY threads in the Type 1 forum here about converting from an internal-regulator alternator to an external-regulator alternator. People do that, of course, because
that style of alternator was discontinued back in the 1970's. Basically it involves
abandoning the old regulator and doing a little rewiring. Pretty simple stuff. Other than that, it should all be the same. I see that you have some sort of regulator
in the engine compartment, but it may be for the old generator your bus originally had, or it may be for the Motorola alternator; you'll have to check that.

It's too bad you didn't get an actual AL82N (made by Bosch only), but instead a cheap, usually Chinese imitation. You might be disappointed before too long.
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'67 bug: seized by the authorities
'68 bug: seized by the authorities
'71 kombi: not yet seized by the authorities

Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

[Danwvw]

The new alternator will work fine. However that may not be the problem. The 73 and 1/2 beetle used a Motorola alternator that depended on an external voltage regulator. When and if you replace it you simply need to eliminate the voltage regulator.
Usually what happens the the Motorola alternators is that the regulator fails or one of the brushes in the alternator wares down. They are easy to fix too. You can use an $20 aftermarket alternator regulator on it too. The VR-126 are 4 wires and are what the VW parts houses are selling at a marked up price. I used one like the VR-124 which has 3 wires and is a direct color match to the plug wiring colors on the Motorola alternator's hook up plug which is also a brake pressure switch plug. Here is a link on wiring a regulator.

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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[Tcash]

This is how to wire in your new Alt.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QRnYsmOg7v8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwPDVDAuO7Y

VW Alternator Kit Fan Install
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMkYJwuKnwM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OeOnMSVAG-s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVTJqjjMYbo

[scrivyscriv]

[Brian]

[scrivyscriv]

[Danwvw]

I vote for just pulling the brushes out of the Motorola alternator first. 2 screws then that hole thing comes loose. There are some wires that if you want you can unsolder them. Probably has a worn short brush! But Yeah, changing the whole alternator is not too big a deal. If you can get that 36mm fan nut in back loose. That way you don't lift the fan shroud or have to mess with the thermostat. Don't have to loosen the alternator stand either that way. Also those special washers and keeper washer will be loose in back and so be careful to not drop anything getting them out. The fan will stay in the shroud and the alternator with it's backing plate assembly will come out of the shroud once it's 4 backing plate screws are removed. It is easer if you remove the carb, distributor, fuel pump and spark wires from the engine to see things. I was removing the manifold and had to pull the generator you may only need to pull the carb and remove the distributor cap and spark wires. It's not too hard. Bosch Al82n Alternator. I have my stock motors generator out right now and took the generator off yesterday. I was lucky the fan nut was only torqued to 39 ft lbs.
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[schlabach4]

Thanks everyone for your help and comments.

Quick update- I ended up returning this alternator and purchasing an actual Bosch model that just arrived. Hopefully tomorrow evening I can spend some time working on getting it installed.

[schlabach4]

Update 2 - I've gotten the carburetor removed, the fan backing plate loosened, but now I'm trying to figure out what else needs to be removed/loosened to get the fan cover lifted. I loosened the 2 bolts on the side of the fan cover, but where is the Hoover bit, thermostat, and flaps that scrivyscriv mentioned?
I have a repair manual that I've been using pretty heavily, but I've seem to run into a dead end and can't figure out what needs to be removed yet.

[scrivyscriv]

If you're not going to remove your engine... don't waste your time trying to get the fan shroud out, it's a real pain if you can even get it all the way out.

VW put two bolts on the bottom of the alternator backing plate and two slotted screws on the top to make it easier to remove the alternator in place. ("easier" does not mean "easy.")

Of course you've got your intake manifold and carb removed I assume.. after that, take the four screws or bolts off the alternator backing plate holding it to the fan shroud. Remove the fat alternator band clamp. Then just wrassle with the alternator until you get it out. It's a pain in the
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Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help.

[Tcash]

Hoover Bit
http://bobhooversblog.blogspot.com/

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=105542
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=360743&highlight=making+hoover
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7565647#7565647

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-insta...hoover+bit

[Abscate]

You can easily ease up a fan shroud on a Bay enough to access generator or alternator hardware (including shroud, thermostat, vanes, etc).

Some wood will prop up the shroud so you can access the hardware with wobble, U/J, extensions etc to get the bolts out.

This is between beginner level and intermediate level skill set.

Pulling the engine for a job like this is ridiculous unless you hit a damaged fastener or other hackery when all bets are off.
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.ssS!

[schlabach4]

Wait... The intake manifold needs to be removed as well?

That would probably explain why the fan won't come out right now, it's hitting it at the moment when I try to pull it out. Is that just held on at both ends where it connects to the outer sections?

[Tcash]

VW Generator Replacement
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ewXkdPgsa4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JEZRUTLO60E
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ob_dENe_nSk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i-WeDmZCogU

[SGKent]

[Abscate]

The difference is probably grounded in the ability to visualize mechanical manipulations, tools, nuts,bolts while blind. This isn't a statement of ability, you can be a good mechanic either way, but if you have this ability working with engine-in is easy.
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.ssS!

[SGKent]

don't see it. Maybe with an aftermarket or bug shroud but not with an original bus shroud. especially dual port. That front fan nut can take more pressure than one can imagine to break free, then the intake manifold has to come out with the generator still in which is wiggle this way, pry that. Then going back together it takes a monkey with extra long arms to reach the nut to thread it back on while not losing shims. Next the fan to shroud spacing needs to be checked if one wants the cooling to work right.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[avocado_tom]