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Engine removal on 56 Oval
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ZENVWDRIVER
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2016 12:40 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine removal on 56 Oval Reply with quote

Ultramoron wrote:
For sure cutting one in is a hack! Some people like some hacks, in this case you like this hack Zen. Similar to all the "bay window" engine accesses cut into split buses, also similar but less noticeable than wheel wells cut to clear tires.

-factory didn't use oak, which will hold moisture and cause rust
-factory had a reinforced "landing" around the hole for strength
-factory cover was ribbed
-factory bolted in, not using Home Depot screws

NLorentsen knows her splits. The beautiful '49 on the cover of the current hotvws belongs to her. I don't know for certain what kind of padding is on a '49 but I do know on an unmodified 51 or 52 that removing the factory luggage rails and carpet is far more work than anything you would need to access from the bottom. An unmodified car with split case and 25/36hp engine is not hard to access the starter, clutch cable, or engine bolts from below with proper tools and jackstands.

Apologies to the OP for the thread hijack. No more from me on this cut luggage area subject


Ha, ha, ha, call the access what you want... you like working from the bottom... cool. go for it. I like working from the top... now what?
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splitjunkie
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2016 3:02 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine removal on 56 Oval Reply with quote

Ultramoron wrote:
For sure cutting one in is a hack! Some people like some hacks, in this case you like this hack Zen. Similar to all the "bay window" engine accesses cut into split buses, also similar but less noticeable than wheel wells cut to clear tires.

-factory didn't use oak, which will hold moisture and cause rust
-factory had a reinforced "landing" around the hole for strength
-factory cover was ribbed
-factory bolted in, not using Home Depot screws

NLorentsen knows her splits. The beautiful '49 on the cover of the current hotvws belongs to her. I don't know for certain what kind of padding is on a '49 but I do know on an unmodified 51 or 52 that removing the factory luggage rails and carpet is far more work than anything you would need to access from the bottom. An unmodified car with split case and 25/36hp engine is not hard to access the starter, clutch cable, or engine bolts from below with proper tools and jackstands.

Apologies to the OP for the thread hijack. No more from me on this cut luggage area subject


My '51 had the exact same padding as on NLorensen's '49. The padding even has the same cutout piece that was glued to the access cover so I would say that hers is factory as well.
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lumbee
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2016 12:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine removal on 56 Oval Reply with quote

57BLITZ wrote:
nlorntson wrote:
. . . let's get back to wondering what's holding up the guys tranny now.

A pair of axle boots!
Wink


Axle boots it is. I swear the transmission didn't seem to move a lick when I removed that brace, but either way I have a hydrolic jack under it now for good measure. The axle boots need replacing anyway. Rolling Eyes
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57BLITZ
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2016 3:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine removal on 56 Oval Reply with quote

lumbee wrote:
The axle boots need replacing anyway. Rolling Eyes


Be sure to get GOOD quality boots!!
And remember to correctly "clock" the axle boot seams . . . not straight up!

You can re-install that trans-mount bracket now . . . before ya put the engine back into the car.

Clean the engine mounting bolts/studs and nuts with a thread chaser first . . . makes for an easy install! While yer at it, do the same with the clutch cable and adjusting nut(s)! Wink
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2016 3:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine removal on 56 Oval Reply with quote

57BLITZ wrote:

Be sure to get GOOD quality boots!!
And remember to correctly "clock" the axle boot seams . . . not straight up!


Also leave the small hose clamp on those boots loose till last. Then push outer end of each boot toward the transaxle about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch and tighten down the smaller hose clamp. That will give each boot a little slack in them even with the VW jacked off the floor so the boots do not get torn up with axle flexed fully down.
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