30 pict 2 screw and gasket help

[Mexdj83]

Does anyone know what this screw does. I'm having a hard time getting my car to idle. I've cleaned this thing 4 times now after it has been sitting for many years. Runs but will not idle. I am going to double check everything one more time compression, valves and all the other stuff before I buy a new carb. I've also noticed my gasket covers the hole this screw goes to almost completely (see picture). I'm at a loss


68 bug 1500cc solex 30 pict 2

[gt1953]

Had the same issue with a 30 pict 2 and ended up contacting VolksBiz. He is the carb man. He does a very fine job on the German solex carbs.
http://www.volkzbitz.com/
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[EverettB]

Runs but will not idle - does your electromagnetic cutoff valve work and is the jet in the end of it clear?
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[60ragtop]

there are different top gaskets for various series carbs, the wrong one ? Does the idle solenoid click or is it plugged?
Also the plastic piece that holds the float looks wrong
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[wcfvw69]

[kreemoweet]

That's not the right gasket for your carb.
That "screw" is most likely a plug for a body drilling; you shouldn't be messing with it.

As folks have said, the plastic float retainer is in backwards - and it is shown backwards in the Bentley diagrams also. Shameful.
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[Mexdj83]

Good eye guys I did fix the float retainer thank you. The solenoid does work, I got it to click on and off. The car runs if I keep about 1/4 throttle on, it will die at idle. The carb has been cleaned to my best (ultra sonic, chemical dip and compressed air. I cut a slot on the gasket and I'm gonna see if that helps in any way, looks like the wrong gasket to me but I have gotten two so far form two different kits and they were the same.

I don't know how to test the solenoid by adding gas, I tested to see if I'm getting power with the key on as well as hearing for a click and seems to work.

Thanks for the hell guys. I'm gonna do all the timing and points compression and valves again to ensure I got it right then try the carb one last time.

Any help is greatly appreciated

[VW_Jimbo]

You can test the solenoid by removing it from the carb and grounding the threaded part to the negative side of the battery. Connect a wire to the solenoid where the 15 circuit would typically connect, and touch the other end to the positive side of the battery. You should see the solenoid retract the plunger. If not the solenoid is faulty.

If it is not the solenoid (solenoid checks good), then reinstall and start. Start the car and keep the car running by spraying little shots of carb cleaner into the carb intake. If that is possible you are chasing a fuel starvation problem. Check the fuel pump output, both pressure and volume at the fuel line into the carb bowl. Just because you have a few pounds of pressure does not mean that there is enough fuel being pushed up to the carb. You will also need to check the volume of fuel.

If you have both fuel pressure and volume to the carb and know that it is a fuel starvation issue, then you are back to the carburetor. Time to rebuild, have it rebuilt or purchase a rebuilt one off of the shelf.

Also, fuel quality has come into the picture on a few vehicles in my past experience. I had a customer which purchased a bad tank of gas. Car would not run and had a different smell. You may try running some new gas.

Good luck!

[Mexdj83]

Thanks VW_Jimbo

Solenoid worked. I will try some new gas because it does seem to have fuel starvation.

I have just read on another forum that screw i was referring to in my picture will cause the volume control screw to not work. When i adjust the volume control screw (the one with the spring right?) it has zero affect to the engine.I started and 2.5 turns out and slowly gone to 5 turns out little by little with no effect whatsoever.

tested for vacuum leaks as well. still have not gotten back to re doing the timing and points and valves but it seems to me that it is a carburetor issue.

Thanks again

[Mint74bug]

Hmm, runs at 1/4 throttle or more, but dies when you let it idle? Sounds like a vacuum leak to me, I had the same issue with an original German 34 PICT 3 and found the throttle shaft had lots of play. I would check your throttle shaft, see if it had excessive play and/or rocks back and forth.
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[airschooled]

There are two types of those jet-style solenoids made; one works in the factory dual carbs, the other in the single carbs. The conical-end solenoid works in single carbs. If the tip of yours has a "stepped" look, it is wrong and will not let the car idle. If you are unsure, post a picture of the tip. Do not lose the ring collar/gasket from the cutoff solenoid; they are no longer available and must be saved.

Robbie
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[VW_Jimbo]

I have never had to mess with any of the screws that are used for port drilling plugs. I would leave that alone. I never have removed that screw before and have rebuilt thousands of VW carbs. 1000's!!!

I have seen hundreds of bad throttle shaft bushings that were leaking volumes of air past the intake. That is definitely something to take a closer look at, as mentioned earlier. You can spray a little carb cleaner at that shaft bushing area and the RPMs will pick up immediately, if you have a leak from that area. Spray a very small amount, because too much will give false responses. Too much spray fills the entire engine area with free hydrocarbons and those vapors get sucked down the intake at the carb air intake.

I have also seen thousands of cars with the basic settings off. It is well worth going back through the valve adjustment, points setting, and timing (with a circuit tester) for basic, throttle shaft plate setting, mixture screw basic setting (I always start rich at 5-1/2 turns out).

Additionally, I have seen hundreds of warped carb bases and intake manifold flanges. Make sure these are flat and sealing 100 percent. You can take a mill file to file both. A big flat one works great. You will see how badly it is sealing after the first few slides of the file, as the newly exposed metal reveals what was (or was not) sealing. The intake can be filed while using a shop vac to collect the loose metal and to keep it from entering the intake manifold.

Additionally, if the throttle plate is at the incorrect angle for idle it will not let the carb utilize the idle circuit. Make sure that the throttle plate is set correctly. Sometimes the fast idle screw is screwed to far in. I have also had carbon build up in the Venturi which did not allow the plate to return to it's basic setting.

One more point. If it were I, I would take the time to check all of the basic settings. If those check out good and you have good compression on all cylinders, I would then rebuild the carb. Soak the disassembled carb in a good carb mix, and then blow out the passages with compressed air. Make certain everything is clean and free. Buy a rebuild kit and rebuild the carb. Install and set basics once again.

Good luck! Let us know how it goes.

[Mexdj83]

thanks guys, I put it on the car to get a quick status before I redo all the basics again and it still would not idle but also did not find and vacuum leaks.

I will stop messing with that screw. My idle mixture screw is having zero affect still. My RPMs were at 900 when i was adjusting, I believe that is low enough. THe throttle plate has me thinking I will check that out thank you.

Going back to the car I have a full day I can try stuff finally with some good help.

Solenoid looks correct thank you.

THis car was functioning and stock before it was sitting for 15 years

[Cusser]

900 rpm is OK.
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[Mexdj83]

i rechecked everything and did the valves at 8 instead of 6 and it looks like that did the trick. still a little rough but i dont see any leaks.

finally will idle on its own but rough so now i will just do some tinkering. Thanks for the help guys