1776 options

[LOWE TECH]

So I bought a '57 bug. P.O. said fresh 1776, dual 34 Dells, etc. Car looked fair so I drove it home. 90 miles of I-5. Did ok but had a heavy oil leak coming from behind the flywheel. Pull engine, main seal good, galley plug loose. Said screw it and split the case. All seems fresh but simple and stock. Would like to build a solid motor for winter months (heater boxes) and toy with big motor down the road. Curious on what people think is "best money spent"?

[vugbug68]

so the cam plug was loose? Measure everything and confirm that the clearances are good, keep everything in the right order and reassemble the 1776. Then start collecting parts for the big motor.
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71 Super - Backroad Thrasher
66 Corvair - Weekend Cruiser
90 4 Runner - Muddin

[jfats808]

To me the bearings look on the new side judging from the color. Replace the seals and gaskets. Assemble back together, enjoy it from now, and save your money up for the engine you want. Check the case line bore and thrust to ensure they are with in specs.
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[GTV]

So is it a 1776 or is it stock??

I'd put a cam in it (specs depending on what you're after), do a little port work to the heads and a pair of 40's.
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EMPI Power Rules!

[Danwvw]

Well if the case is something to support a larger engine why not go ahead with it now. Other wise if it's a single port case or some not too good AE or something with 14mm inserts and can't be opened up then keep it stock.
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[sactojesse]

[TinCanFab]

If you want to do a bigger engine down the road, I wouldn't spend a whole lot on this one to have a good back up runner. Money well spent would be the same things I would do for a long life 1600

-drill and tap case plugs and full flow (your big engine will swap in and use existing filter setup)
-swap to counter weighted crank and have everything balanced
-I just tried a CB rubber coated cam plug with a light coat of Gasgacinch. Completely drip free now on my engine that always dripped from the flywheel. My buddy re built it to a 1641, it leaked. I built it again into a 2 liter, new plug and it leaked. Cam swap and compression change, this time no leaks. I'm sold.
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[ALB]

An Engle W100 cam (and new lifters) would work quite well with the rest of the engine, be a simple addition, not break the bank, give noticeably more power, and be more fun to drive until you build something bigger. I'm assuming the engine has dual port heads?

PS- Put a full flow filter on it while it's apart. Feeding it a steady supply of clean oil 100% of the time will be smartest thing you do...
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On a lifelong mission to prove (much to my wife's dismay) that Immaturity is Forever!!

[Lingwendil]

assuming stock cam or something archaic and trendy like a 110, put in a nice conservative cam with matched lifters.

what heads does it have now? if stock valve heads maybe have them flycut to remove the step in the chamber, and CC them all, set a nice healthy compression ratio. I wouldn't buy a new pair unless you need a bunch of work done to yours, or if they are muffed.
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Need replacement filters for original Kadron aircleaners? WIX #42087 is a perfect fit, as is Napa Gold #2087!

[LOWE TECH]

Thanks for the response guys. Cam plug was good. Threaded galley plug on the back was physically loose. Did some measuring, crank turned .020 on mains and rods, bore cut .020, thrust std. From what I know it's a later case, AS stamping. No full flow work just a filter mounted to an aluminum oil pump. Pistons are 90.5 and the heads are stock valve dual port. All fairly fresh.
Things I know need addressed: Flywheel (PO cut the face of the ring gear?) Exhaust (burnt out junk) Distributor (wore out 009 with points)
What I'd like to wind up with is a dependable little motor that you can spin a bit if you want.
Things I question: Use the stock heads with a clean up and solid shafts? CW crank or the turned out stocker? Not looking to turn 6000. Move up to dual 40's? Cam to suit?

[ALB]

"Best money spent" (your words)- The engine doesn't really need much, so beware of sinceitsapartitis, as this is an affliction that can seriously lighten your wallet. It has a perfectly good crankshaft, dual port heads and carburetors. With a cam/rocker combo that revs to 5,000rpm or so (W100 or something similar), the crank you have is fine (get it and flywheel 8 dowelled), a little port clean up on the heads can be done by you (if you're so inclined) and the carbs are fine. Calculate compression to 8 or 8.25:1 with .040-.050" deck and adjust combustion chamber size accordingly, buy some solid rocker shafts, full flow the case properly (the passages in the covers in the filter pump combos are restrictive, so the pumps have bigger gears and that just creates more heat), put a decent 1 3/8" header on it and you're good to go. You may (probably will?) build something bigger at a later date, so anything else is sinceitsapartitis! Al
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On a lifelong mission to prove (much to my wife's dismay) that Immaturity is Forever!!

[Alstrup]

I wonder why there are lash caps on the valves (?)

What ALB said.
As much as I like dual Weber or Dells I´d say stay with the 34´s for now and build a nice lower budget engine and save the remains for the one you really like to build.

With a tight deck you can easily bump the CR to 8,5-8,6 with a W100 or CB 2239 cam. That wohnt give you much more hp, but it will wake up the torque.

Take the rods off and get them balanced while youre in there. I would balance the crank assembly too, but we´re on a budget.

Check pistons for balance too.

Heads. A competition valve job, cut back on intakes, clean up of the ports and a correction of the CR.

Ignition: I do not remember if there is a vacum port on the baby dells. If there are, use it, and source a regular distributor from a 1600 type 1 engine. Install an Ignitor module in it and adjust it to your motor and be done.
Also, if you want you can contact CB and get a set of 28 or 29 mm venturies for the baby Dells. That, along with a rejet can make the engine somewhat more resposnsive in the midrange rpms and add a few ponies up top.

Exhaust. something 1 3/8" size with a decent muffler. 1½" will do too.

That´s what I would do when this is going to be a decent engine for now while a larger is to be built.

T

[Danwvw]

The AS stamping on the case just stands for what it's made out of Aluminum and Silicone it does not tell whether or not it's a 10mm stud case that needs inserts or if it's a later case that already has them. Need to know the first two letters on the gen/alt stand block or if no serial number then a description or photo of the bores and cylinder studs etc... But it sounds like it's already been opened up for 90.5 or 92's and probably it's inserted. Under Technical above are the case serial numbers and AE, AH codes for them and what year etc...
Select Technical, VIN / Chassis Numbers, Type1 etc.. to view your serial number. Looks like it was Feb. 1973 the bug case went from 10mm to 8mm with inserts.
AH 060 040 change from M10 to M8 head studs
AK 056 935 change from M10 to M8 head studs
Once you know what case you have it is easier to decide what could be built from it.
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[Alstrup]

There are AS engine codes too. 8/73 - on.

[Danwvw]

Yes, True, it could be an AS serial number but usually people just see the AS-41 on the side and call any case an AS case.
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[Joel Mohr]

One of the valve springs is on upside down....
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SEE YOU AT THE RACES!!!!

[Danwvw]

Oh, Yeah! #4 intake.
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[LOWE TECH]

Got some time today and started cleaning parts. Found a bad weld repair at the bottom of #1 bearing saddle. Had burned through and left a ball of slag in the oil galley. Time to rethink plan. Question--- Is this a problem spot?

[modok]

I have never seen that before. Could have been an accident that happened when drilling the case for a pipe plug, or even a factory defect.

Did it have hydraulic lifters?