Heater tube issues

[busdaddy]

[BayCreamPuff]

[obieoberstar]

The WW replacement tubes look just like the ones in OP's picture.

I was about to install them, but were too long. Instead the originals got refreshed with a cleaning and new collars. Glad I did what I did.

Sold the replacements at a swap meet.

[70Crew]

Well, I saw the glowing review of the JustKampers accordian tubes and ordered them before I saw the followup post where the inside lining melted. Since I paid through the nose for them and they seem to be better quality than the US repros, I thought I would see if I could modify them to make them more durable.

Inside view before.... plastic mesh.

I picked up a roll of 12" x 30" fencing at Ace Hardware. This is heavy enough that it tends toward retaining its flat shape when you roll it.

I cut it to length and then rolled it around the base of a flashlight that is a bit smaller than the inside of the hole.

When you let go of the roll it expands out against the plastic mesh. My hope is that any melted mesh will be held in place by the metal mesh. We shall see.

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1970 Crew Cab

[Tcash]

Heat shield

http://www.amazon.com/Turbo-Exhaust-Muffler-Insula...k129040-20

http://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Header-Exhaust-A...merReviews

[70Crew]

The JK tubes do have insulation behind the plastic mesh.
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1970 Crew Cab

[BayCreamPuff]

[Tcash]

[Tcash]

[onehappykombi]

[dodger tom]

[onehappykombi]

[quote="dodger tom"]

[Manfred58sc]

Pretty sure that is flex exhaust pipe, sold at any NAPA
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Fat chick owner/operator

[HarryFD]

As it is not terribly hot there, I would look for some Spa Hose of a correct ID to fit over the Heat Exchanger and duct connections and insulate with some foam pipe insulation. Use some worm clamps at each end to attach.

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1970 Deluxe Sunroof Bay Brilliant Blue/Cloud White
1973.5 911 Targa
2009 MB C300

[SGKent]

I think the air coming out of the heat exchangers is around 300F. It melts a lot of the reproduction bellows. Once those repro bellows start to deform inside, the temperature goes up to that of the the heat exchanger inside, which can melt aluminum if the air across it is disrupted.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[onehappykombi]

I ordered mine from J-Bugs (received EMPI brand) and the stuff inside them does not look like I would want to make my family breathe it’s vapors:

Returned them immediately (re-stocking fee )

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'56 Early Split & '69 Early Bay

Overlanding the USA
Camper special engine build

[onehappykombi]

[SGKent]

Contact Ken Madson at the Busco and buy a set of originals that aren't full of mice. Wash the outer in soap and water and it will look new. The ends unscrew. Pull the guts out and flip the fabric over so the inside is now out and the clean outside is now in, Do not wash it, even by hand or it falls apart. Paint the wire after cleaning it. A couple days later put it back together. Like new.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[orwell84]

I have no idea if the aftermarket tubes use inferior plastic, but it’s easy to see why they would melt.

The big springy coil does not hold the insulation in place. The gaps between the coils are huge. After a few months shuffling them around in bins, the insulation sags into the tube and blocks it. No doubt, this happens quickly clunking around in a bus…airflow is blocked, so it’s gonna melt.

The originals use a tight mesh tube, tightly wrapped with insulation. They are well sealed at the ends and insulated from the metal they are connected to by asbestos cuffs.

I bought a few originals from the classifieds. For now, I’m using flex tubing. It works well, but as mentioned, transmits engine noise and likely loses heat. But it works and I now can defrost my windshield. One day I will fix up the original tubes. That sort of arts and crafts refurb is the best solution I have found for replacing these tubes.


https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2371744.jpg

[SGKent]