1943 Type 82 Motor Help

[blackbird939]

Hello Forum,

I finally broke down and bought a car off of my bucket list. I had a 1969 Porsche 911. I sold it last month. I had spent 12 years restoring and improving it, but it was a bit of an anticlimax when it was done. So.. I sold the 911 and bought what I really always wanted: a 1942 Typ 82. Actually, I am not sure if it is a last-days-of 1942 or first of 43. Anyway, it has a late-type 43 motor which is not 100% complete but probably 90%. Has the flywheel which I have been told is the holy-grail of these motors. My first question is this. Many people in the Kubel 'community' end up placing the early 24hp motors on the shelf and running 25hp or 36hp motors because they appear original but are more advanced, durable, powerful, plentiful, etc. So.. I was hoping that I could use the original motor (which turns easily) case, heads and the Solex 26VFI vergasser, but running a newer cam, valves, guides, crank, clutch, distributor etc. Thing is, I now know plenty about the 69-73 Porsche 911 motor, but absolutely zero about the VW motor. Seems straightforward enough, but the interchangeability of parts is a mystery. From what I've read, it looks like 25hp parts can, with some exceptions, be used on/in the original 43 motor case.

Any thoughts or suggestions? Shelve this mess and just buy a 36hp motor? Upgrade or finish this motor? It will need a lot. My fear is: WHERE do you find motor essentials like rod/main bearings for a 24 hp motor?

Is this motor just a basket case?

Many thanks in advance. Glad I finally have a real reason to be here.

[splitjunkie]

25 and 36 hp internals should all fit in that case. 25hp pistons and cylinders and heads will fit but not 36hp pistons and cylinders without machining the case and heads.

On the outside it looks restorable. You won't really know until you open it up. Depending on how it was stored it could have a lot of corrosion of the case.

I see a transaxle in the background of one of your pictures that looks like it is missing the bottom part of the bell housing. Is that due to corrosion or is it an optical illusion? If that goes with the engine and they were mated then you might have some issues with the bottom of the case.
_________________
Chris

You know, a lot of these scratches will buff right out... Jerry Seinfeld

[blackbird939]

That's good to know. As far as the bell housing in the background of the picture, I have no idea. This motor was used after the war on a farm to run some kind of equipment. So I am hoping that there are no problems with the mating surfaces. The car is still in transit across the Atlantic, so I guess I'll find out when I see it finally.

Anybody recommend a top notch carb restoration shop for the KDF carb?

[tasb]

Tim at Volkzbitz restored two 1940's carburetors for me. One is a 26 VFI Solex and the other is an Huf model. Here is a link:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=639025&highlight=carburetor
_________________
Roads Scholar &
1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse

[nlorntson]

Ed Fall at vintage werks does fantastic work as well.

http://www.vintagewerks.com/

[campingbox]

What's the flywheel look like?

[blackbird939]

[Clara]

How does that flywheel differ from a later one? It looks nearly identical to a 36hp one I have here.
_________________
The Obsolete Air-Cooled Documentation Project http://oacdp.org/

[blackbird939]

[Martin Southwell]

If that is your original flywheel for the engine, then it can be refurbished.
I've done this for one of my 1947 engine recently, and it has come out well.

Have it bead, or similarly media blasted, then the clutch plate contact area can be refaced, along with match recessing the flywheel outer rim, where the clutch pressure plate sits, and is held in place by the 6 bolts.

If the area where the oil seal runs is poor, then a new circular collar can be made and fitted. Bear in mind that the end of this also has to act as a thrust surface to prevent excessive crankshaft end float. My machinist didn't appreciate this at first!

Obviously where the crankshaft dowel pegs locate in the flywheel have to be in nice condition, but if not, a new set of 4 holes can be drilled at 45 degrees to the present ones. I've seen this on a number of flywheels in the past, where the original holes have ovaled out, normally due to the 36mm nut previously not being sufficiently tightened.