Wash before shooting primer ?

[kman]

These things are always a battle. It sounds like you've done what you can. I too am a big fan of epoxy as a sealer and first coat over metal. If you use that you are unlikely to have problems in the future. I think Metal Ready is phosphoric acid with some zinc additives. It's another expense but it gives some time before you have to worry about sealing.

[Doug C]

Yes sometimes there's such a thing as too much research I think. Probably the 30/70 mix of acid and water was weak enough to not need a scrubbing wash. Thanks for the Metal Ready recommendation, but at this point the car has a nice clean, dull (etched from the mix) finish all over and is not rusting. It's completely covered on all sides and staying dry.

The comments made earlier in this thread about filler/block & sanding taking longer than my epoxy's stated 5 day window, got me thinking.. I may shoot epoxy primer on the front half of the car where I stripped the acid, take a few days to block & sand that, then prime the rest. You guys have me concerned about having to scuff epoxy that's dried before I get to it (and I'm out of money for a gallon of high build at this point).

Doug C

[Mike Fisher]

I never used water or thinner on phosphoric acid. The bare metal will stay looking good for years inside if you don't sand/wash it off! Spray red oxide rattle can primer to do your filler/blocksanding work to get the body perfectly straight for 100% epoxy primer at the end of the bodywork. Save the Epoxy for last. Scuff the rattle can primer before the SPI Epoxy & sealer. Spread 1/4" filler on the dents & block sand it down to 1/8" feather it in to the bare metal with 320 grit. .02 more cents of research FWIW?
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