Bent Framehead?

[mushisushi]

I bought my Baja bug a few years ago, didn't get much use out of it. Now I'm going to start a ground-up rust removal and repainting of the frame and body.

I removed the gas tank today and was able to look down at the frame head, and it definitely appears bent to one side - never noticed it when I bought the thing, it's not apparently by looking at it.

The pan is from a '66 beetle and the front end is a linkpin suspension, so it isn't the original front anyway....but it must've been in an accident after it had the linkpin front end welded in.

My question is.....if I'm going to do it properly....

Is this something that can be 'corrected' by a frame puller? Or do I need to weld on a new frame head. The pics should give a good idea as to the damage.

And what's a good way to make sure the rear end transmission horns and the rest of the pan is straight?

[gorbur]

I did a frame head replacement some years ago and now in the process of fixing that repair.
Originally mine was bent from a minor front end collision. As there was little rust and the OG steel good i trimmed the replacement just to the frame head itself. In preparing it i definitely noticed the replacement being a lighter gauge.

It welded up reasonably and the finished product seemed OK. I quickly threw on the axle and moved on.

... However the problem started when i re torqued the axle mounting bolts just prior to dropping on the body. Taking them to factory spec 3 of the 4 threaded ferrules stripped and/or pulled up to the axle, slightly distorting the frame head. Probably could be fixed and gusseted/reinforced but that doesn't really correctly fix the problem.
I'm now in the process of replacing with a good original salvaged part.
Others are certainly correct in emphasizing OG replacements, consider that very carefully.
As important is preparing a jig. I aligned the jig to a reference centre line along the tunnel. This will also pay off if you do a preliminary 4 wheel alignment. Build the jig to fix the caster as well. Didn't have any pics of the jig but googles your friend there.
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73 - Ghia Cabriolet, currently under resto
76 - Type1, 1776, full restomod

[mushisushi]

Thanks for the advice. I doubt I will be able to find a donor frame head anywhere nearby, or for a reasonable price.

I haven't pulled the body off yet to see if there is any other damage. The frame head only has surface rust so it is a shame to replace with lighter gauge. Perhaps it can just be straightened with a puller? I have 0 experience with bodywork unfortunately.

Sidenote, what mind of coating did you use on your pan, it's nice!

[gorbur]

Straightening was no option in my case but certainly viable in yours. Ran it by a buddy familiar with this sort of thing suggested this:
1 - inspect previous welds, OK?
2 - open the web up with 2 pie cuts (width exaggerated on pic)
3 - vertical cut on half the tunnel
4 - twist the head out cold, no heat on tunnel
5 - If its not moving apply heat underside of tunnel (between cuts)
6 - weld back up.

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73 - Ghia Cabriolet, currently under resto
76 - Type1, 1776, full restomod

[Derek Cobb]

Aftermarket frameheads are notoriously bad in my experience. Good used frameheads are easy to locate and usually affordable. Cut the replacement out an inch or so back from the Napolean hat. cut the old one off at the back edge of the Napolean hat. cut some slots in the old tunnel and slide the new framehead over the old tunnel. Cross measure from a common point and weld the new one in, stopping to make sure the measurements havent changed.

The replacements are too light gauge and flimsey, as well as being dimensonally challenged. I wasted a couple of days on one before I started over with a good used one.

[jason]

I would not go off of sight. Measure it. I tried to find what the tolerances are but couldn't find it. Mine is like 1-2mm off. I'm sure they were never perfect but should have a tolerance. If you know or find, please share.