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Tue Apr 23, 2024 11:19 pm

Hi all,

First time poster here. I picked up a '70 Squareback almost 2 years ago and have been chipping away at the little things. This is my first project car and VW so I'm learning as I go and would love some guidance. I'm hoping I can post more questions in this post as I go along, but I have some more time-sensitive ones to start with.

The basic info: I bought the '70 squareback with no engine or transmission. I bought a FI engine from a guy who pulled it out of a '71 squareback. The engine came out of an automatic but I want it to stay a manual in my car. From what I've read around on here it seems like the conversion is pretty straightforward. I haven't tried to get it to run yet but that all of that is a topic for another day.

My main question for now is really about transmission. I found a great deal (that happens to match the amount of money I was given for my birthday haha) on an IRS that the owner says in theory should be good, but he doesn't know for sure. He also wasn't sure what it came out of but guessed bug or ghia. I've been trying to figure out how compatible it will be and what I might have to change to make it work for me but I'm a little bit lost. Its cheap enough that I'm leaning towards buying it regardless, even if I can only use some of the parts, but I would love a more experienced opinion.

I've been sent a few photos of the transmission. I'll include some of them in this post. The numbers I can see in the photos are:
28
113 301 103
J
AH4057616

I found this number on my engine: U0446028

I'm really excited about this car, I just get a bit nervous from my lack of experience. I'm also excited to finally be posting here instead of just lurking, hopefully I can show you all some good progress on my little project :)

Here are some photos:

Tue Apr 23, 2024 11:38 pm

Change the hockey stick to the correct Type 3 one and give it a go.

Wed Apr 24, 2024 9:42 am

Of course, you'll need to find the right flywheel to replace the drive plate on the engine, setting endplay as you do.
Look for an automatic starter. It mounts the same, has a little more power, and doesn't need a bushing in the case to hold the armature (it's self-supporting). Price difference is negligible.
Keep us posted, and with more pics; this is a good recovery story!

I'm still laughing about the laziness of the sawzall job on the half-shaft! You need new axles changing to a stick anyway.

Wed Apr 24, 2024 11:34 am

If you buy anything used like that, you're gonna have to do what Tram said. Shove it in and try it. But keep in mind, you might just end up with a core and will have to send it out to be rebuilt. These days, I think most shops are requiring a core for a rebuild, so if it's cheap enough, you might need it anyway regardless of whether it works or not.

You're in the right place. Lots of folks here that can help you.

Wed Apr 24, 2024 1:53 pm

Also, for drive axles you can use bug/Ghia axles and cv joints. Those are easy to find, and bolt in. Like Tram said, try and find a used type 3 only hockey stick (shift rod for the trans, as the bug unit will have the divot on top, and it needs to be on the bottom in a type 3. Also don't get an aftermarket one, as the bottom divot is usually in the wrong place (offset from center).

Thu Apr 25, 2024 7:04 pm

I went and picked up the transmission yesterday! Now I just have to find the time to work on it. Thanks all for the advice.
Just to clarify, the axles are the same in bugs and ghias? Is there a certain year range I should look for?
In general where is the best place to source these kinds of parts? Finding local used stuff or online? The hockey stick, axles, or flywheel for example. I also don't have a shifter so I need to find those parts as well.
Thanks again to everyone that answered questions so far! In the next few days when I have some time I'll post about some of the work I've done so far and throw more questions in as I come up with them!

Fri Apr 26, 2024 12:46 pm

rascalvicfinn wrote: I went and picked up the transmission yesterday! Now I just have to find the time to work on it. Thanks all for the advice.
Just to clarify, the axles are the same in bugs and ghias? Is there a certain year range I should look for?
In general where is the best place to source these kinds of parts? Finding local used stuff or online? The hockey stick, axles, or flywheel for example. I also don't have a shifter so I need to find those parts as well.
Thanks again to everyone that answered questions so far! In the next few days when I have some time I'll post about some of the work I've done so far and throw more questions in as I come up with them!

I'd search the Samba classifieds for the used parts. As for the drive axles, any good auto parts place should be able to get them for you (order them in, and get new bolts too). Order them up for a 69 thru 78 bug. I'd go with a new flywheel as well, as you'll probably have to resurface (the clutch surface for sure) the old one or a used one. You'll want a 200mm 12 volt flywheel (same as a bug). Shop around for the new parts though, as you can save some money that way. There are lots of parts suppliers in California and other states too.

Mon Apr 29, 2024 11:49 am

The transmission seller appears to have cut the bolt heads off the 6 bolts which attach the right inner CV joint to the trans (left/lower one in photo). Those "studs" are actually the remnants of the original bolts with round heads that had 12-point internal ("hex") patterns. You can see the correct bolts on the other CV joint.

To remove those sawed-off bolt shanks, you can try gripping them tightly with Vise Grips. The bolts were originally torqued to ~ 25 lb ft so that including decades of corrosion of the threads, you'll need a significant twist to get them off. You could try to hit the threads at the flange with a torch flame tip, since the heat will expand the threads and help break the rust bond. Hold the torch parallel to the transmission body so that the flame tip does not point to the trans housing.

The other, "healthy" CV bolts need a specific tool to get into those 12-point heads. After you obtain such a tool and before you attempt to loosen them, use a small pick tool to clean out the grime inside the 12-point; then spray with brakeleen spray (ear goggles). The tool needs to fully grip those 12 points; any small piece of dirt will prevent full insertion and can cause the inner points to round off.

Mon Apr 29, 2024 12:14 pm

Rome wrote:

The other, "healthy" CV bolts need a specific tool to get into those 12-point heads.

Remind me again, are they 12 point or triple square/XZN?

Mon Apr 29, 2024 1:35 pm

12 point metric- https://vwparts.aircooled.net/12-Point-CV-Joint-Allen-Socket-3-8-Drive-p/00-5796-0-12pt-hextool.htm