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seilerj Wed Aug 20, 2014 7:04 pm

Shoyrtt wrote: seilerj wrote:
I want to try to do the front end myself but I'm afraid it may be a little beyond my comfort level ....I'm thinking I may need just to jump in and go for it but holding off for now.


I would start with the rockers and then the parcel tray before the nose. :wink:

What are your plans with the pan?

I have a set of full pans




HUGO bOSS Sat Dec 27, 2014 6:19 pm

Any news?

seilerj Sun Dec 28, 2014 8:06 am

Everything got put on hold temporarily until I build my new shop it's almost completed hoping to get started again in earnest in the spring

seilerj Sun Dec 28, 2014 8:06 am

double

seilerj Sun Dec 28, 2014 8:07 am

Double

seilerj Sun Dec 28, 2014 8:07 am

Double

GI Joe Sun Dec 28, 2014 8:11 pm

Seilerj,
Are you posting from an IPad, by chance?

3Duckdaddy Mon Dec 29, 2014 1:58 pm

Seilerj,
What part of IL are you in? I am near Springfield. I may be interested in any body parts you replace. Mine is crustier than yours. :(
Good work on the restore.

George

Jenny'sThing Wed Dec 31, 2014 2:26 pm

That trunk sheet metal is awesome! My thing has a hole where the trunk is. Any chance there is more of that sheet metal where yu found it?

Thanks!

seilerj Sat Jun 18, 2016 10:04 am



Ok... The captured nuts on the inside rocker were spinning... I knew I already had rocker rot at the rear of the rocker. I know I will need to open up the rockers to weld in new nuts on the inner rocker. I cut access holes to keep the captured nuts from spinning and get the pan bolts out.

With the exception of the captured nuts the inner rocker looks to be good shape..

I have a NOS outer rocker... The question is ... Where is the best place to cut the outer rocker??

I need to be able access the inner rocker captured nuts and weld in new ones.

I want to clean /POR as much of the inside of the inner rocker as possible while outer rocker is opened up.

I want to maintain the original seams.

I was thinking a straight line across the rocker horizontal would be easiest.

Any input would be greatly appreciated

Ron Domeck Sat Jun 18, 2016 2:36 pm

Center of rib. Easiest to work and best for welding without warping.

seilerj Sat Jan 28, 2017 9:15 am

Rear body mount rubber appears to be a 181 part number ....it's part #3 on the parts list


.... that differs from the parts list... it seems thinner then the body mount rubbers on front... any ideas?....

Not having any luck finding the 181 part






seilerj Thu Feb 02, 2017 10:50 am

I think I found a solution… I found some thinner rubber pads part number 111899119B. I will have to cut them down and enlarge the hole they are the right thickness and width

JayC Fri Feb 03, 2017 9:22 am

Interesting catch on the part number. I hadn't noticed that before. I am almost positive when I mounted the body back to mine, I used part number 111 899 115A from the Thing Shop all the way around (front and back). There didn't seem to be any issues.

jay

Ron Domeck Fri Feb 03, 2017 10:37 am

We use the ones that are about 1/2 in. and cut to fit. You can put the wrong size in an change the rear door gap. I have taken cars apart that has 1/4 in. to 1/2 in. from the factory.

seilerj Fri Feb 03, 2017 12:39 pm

Jay

The ones you mention from the thingshop are the mounts that I got for the front body mount.....and they seemed right... im sure they would have been fine to use on the back as well...but I think the other ones I found will work better.

seilerj Tue May 15, 2018 3:42 pm

In the process of rebuilding my distributor. (113 905 205 AN)… Are all these replacement parts correct? I've seen a few different part numbers that contradict these in another location





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