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Sun Jun 21, 2015 1:56 pm

Decided to try extracting the broken bolt on my right front bumper mount while I have the apron removed. What a pain in the ass that has been! I drilled a hole through the bolt piece, got a "heavy duty" screw extractor in place, (mind you, I soaked the bolt with penetrating oil several times ahead of time) and proceeded to try unscrewing it with a crescent wrench, and POP! The freaking extractor now broke off inside!! If any one hasn't ever tried drilling through an extractor - don't bother trying. I resorted to cutting a slit into the bolt with my Dremel to see if I could get a heavy duty screw driver to get it out. No dice. I even applied lots of heat to it.

Instead of messing with the spot welds, I decided to cut the mount off with the Dremel.

I'll come back with a flap disk on my angle grinder and grind it smooth.

Here's the inside part of the mount with the extractor still stuck inside.

Sun Jun 21, 2015 2:36 pm

I have the opposite on the front of my 65, the mount is there but the weld nut is missing and the car is already painted. Something else to thank the previous owner for. Since you're that far in I'd probably get a quality repro bumper mount.

Sun Jun 21, 2015 7:44 pm

jvulich wrote: I have the opposite on the front of my 65, the mount is there but the weld nut is missing and the car is already painted. Something else to thank the previous owner for. Since you're that far in I'd probably get a quality repro bumper mount.

Yeah, I have a good replacement I had purchased from WW. I figured I'd at least try getting the broken bolt out anyway. It would have saved some work...and welding. Just glad it's something I can address now that I have easy access to it....un-painted! :D

Sun Jul 12, 2015 4:24 pm

SW......just read entire build thread.....nice work!! Subscribed 8)

Sun Jul 12, 2015 6:50 pm

54ovsemi wrote: SW......just read entire build thread.....nice work!! Subscribed 8)

Thanks 54! Hope it didn't put you to sleep! No progress on my build lately. Texas summers really suck unless you have an indoor, air conditioned shop to work in!

Sun Jul 12, 2015 7:40 pm

second that Texas summers

miserably hot and humidity killer

Sat Sep 26, 2015 5:45 pm

So while I'm still waiting for my motor rebuild to be completed, I decided to try fixing my running board/broken bolts issue. From other threads, I guess I was lucky that only 3 of my 8 running board bolts snapped off when removing the old running boards. I tried the screw extractor idea, and that didn't work at all. If I put too much pressure on them, they'd snap off inside the hole I had drilled, and removing a broken "easy out" was just about impossible. So after researching some threads, I found out about rivnuts (or nutserts), which were the best thing I could have hoped for.

I drilled out the existing bolt holes with a 3/8" drill bit.
(the rusty areas are just surface rust, mainly from sitting after spraying penetrating oil).

Here's a shot of the rivnut and the bolt & washer.

...and the rivnut tool.

These things fit in so snug and perfectly that I'd definitely recommend this method over using oversized wood or sheet metal screws like some people recommend.

My motor has been at the rebuilder for just over 3 months. They estimated it would take 3 months, but I called last week and they "just started to tear into it". #-o

Sat Dec 05, 2015 10:45 pm

5 1/2 months later and I finally get the call that my motor is ready. :D
I had them install a 12V flywheel to get the conversion done properly and decided to take my chassis in to have them grind out the transmission bell housing to accommodate the larger flywheel, and button up a few other details. Because of how busy they are, I don't think it'll be ready for pickup until after New Years...

Sat Apr 30, 2016 8:11 am

Any updates?

Sun May 01, 2016 2:31 pm

lovethatconvertible wrote: Any updates?

Hiya, John - progress has been slow. Can't believe I haven't posted anything in almost 6 months! Most of what I've done hadn't really been noteworthy. I did get out and do a little today!

I finally got my chassis and rebuilt motor back. My only complaint was after my 2 hour drive home, I noticed they had removed the voltage regulator and never reinstalled it! Not sure what the thinking was there.

Sun May 01, 2016 2:33 pm

Before everyone starts in on the fuel filter, I know. It will be moved. :lol:

Sun May 01, 2016 2:37 pm

I removed all of the glass & old window rubber, as well as the door window mechanisms.

Discovered some rust at the bottom of the rear window. Not sure what the best way is to fix that. Any thoughts??

Sun May 01, 2016 2:44 pm

I ordered the firewall tar board kit from WW as well as the front & rear engine to body seals that needed to be replaced. I figured while the body was still off, it was the best time to do it.

I first installed the engine seals. Whoever said it was easy to do is a lying SOB! What a PITA! Took me about 1 1/2 hours. The silicone spray I had read would make installation easier didn't really help. I had to push the bottom half in, then push the top part in about 1/8" at a time with a screwdriver.

Sun May 01, 2016 2:48 pm

Next came the firewall tar board. That wasn't too hard. I punched a 5/8" hole in the tar board for the wiring to poke through..

Then everything else pretty much went in with ease (and some minor trimming)...

After I get some welding done and install a new pan to body seal, I'll be putting the body back on the car.

Mon May 02, 2016 1:50 pm

sportin-wood wrote: lovethatconvertible wrote: Any updates?

I finally got my chassis and rebuilt motor back. My only complaint was after my 2 hour drive home, I noticed they had removed the voltage regulator and never reinstalled it! Not sure what the thinking was there.

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Looks like progress to me! Was the voltage regulator on the engine when you brought it in? It usually gets put under the back seat on the12 volt cars. That may be why it wasn't installed.

Mon May 02, 2016 4:22 pm

Good to see your getting closer Dave. You should just section in some new formed metal on the back window. make a paper template and get er' done.
Keep us in the loop.

Tue May 10, 2016 9:50 am

EA812 wrote: Was the voltage regulator on the engine when you brought it in? It usually gets put under the back seat on the12 volt cars. That may be why it wasn't installed.

Yes, it was mounted to the fan shroud. The shop that rebuilt the motor said they "assumed" I was going to mount mine under the back seat, but I'm not. I'll be mounting it on the fan shroud again.

Tue May 10, 2016 9:52 am

lovethatconvertible wrote: Good to see your getting closer Dave. You should just section in some new formed metal on the back window. make a paper template and get er' done.
Keep us in the loop.

You make it sound so easy! :wink: What gauge metal should be used back there? Keep in mind that I'm clueless when it comes to metal fabrication. I'm amazed at some of the work guys do on their builds...

Tue May 10, 2016 6:33 pm

Try to find some 18 gauge flat steel, (Ace hardware) or true value. Since most of the steel around your window bottom seems to look good your only dealing with flat stock with a L bend for the window.Make a paper template of the offending area's and go from there. I believe you have a welder? just make 4' sections and weld it all together. Or longer if you can. You can do. think it through and get it done.
You need to get this Beetle back together and start driving it. Your so close, Baby steps Man. I'm trying to give you some motivation here. :D

Tue May 24, 2016 8:25 pm

Try running a wire brush over the rust below the rear window . If you get holes through the metal you can replace it ......If you don't get any holes you can ospho it and surface fill and paint it .